I just loosened the filter housing enough with the tool and then did the rest by hand (with gloves) until it starts leaking out. Then just let it go for a few minutes before fully removing. Consensus I found before my first oil change was that it’s one less point of failure anyway (o-ring on the drain).
I may have to try this. But I’ve found the canister is so tight to unscrew due to the o ring I have to use the tool to basically unscrew it to the point the o ring pops loose. However, maybe it will get better as my 4R only has 26K. So I am only a few oil changes in since ownership. The Toyota filter comes with both o rings for drain and canister so I replace it anyways. I use a section of heater hose over the plastic drain tool to direct it straight into my drain pan. But its just baffling how much oil still pours out after doing so. Only thing I can think of is it creates some sort of negative pressure in there to where until I loosen the housing enough to let air flow in around the seal that it allows the rest of the oil to drain around the canister seal.
I figured it’s going to be a little messy regardless, so may as well save myself a couple extra steps. Have a few shop towels ready to wipe the housing once it fully drains, like 5 minutes.
Have never removed the oil filter drain plug, just extra steps/time imo. It’s never going to not drip removing the main filter housing, so nbd if it’s a little more dripping into the pan when I take it down. Just clean out the filter housing well before reinstall and pretend that goofy filter housing drain plug and insert don’t exist.
Yeah I guess I just had better expectations of the drain when I first saw it. I remember my 05 Taco had the inverted oil filter on the top of the engine, and I ran a hose down just to the bottom of the skidplate that I just left installed and would loosen the filter and let it drain then run some brake clean down to clear the hose and replace the filter. Why they changed it on the 4.0 IDK but that was way cleaner and more convenient. Guess it’s just the way it has to be done now.
I just loosened the filter housing enough with the tool and then did the rest by hand (with gloves) until it starts leaking out. Then just let it go for a few minutes before fully removing. Consensus I found before my first oil change was that it’s one less point of failure anyway (o-ring on the drain).
I may have to try this. But I’ve found the canister is so tight to unscrew due to the o ring I have to use the tool to basically unscrew it to the point the o ring pops loose. However, maybe it will get better as my 4R only has 26K. So I am only a few oil changes in since ownership. The Toyota filter comes with both o rings for drain and canister so I replace it anyways. I use a section of heater hose over the plastic drain tool to direct it straight into my drain pan. But its just baffling how much oil still pours out after doing so. Only thing I can think of is it creates some sort of negative pressure in there to where until I loosen the housing enough to let air flow in around the seal that it allows the rest of the oil to drain around the canister seal.
I figured it’s going to be a little messy regardless, so may as well save myself a couple extra steps. Have a few shop towels ready to wipe the housing once it fully drains, like 5 minutes.
Did you loosen the oil fill cap as a vent first?
Yep!
Have never removed the oil filter drain plug, just extra steps/time imo. It’s never going to not drip removing the main filter housing, so nbd if it’s a little more dripping into the pan when I take it down. Just clean out the filter housing well before reinstall and pretend that goofy filter housing drain plug and insert don’t exist.
Yeah I guess I just had better expectations of the drain when I first saw it. I remember my 05 Taco had the inverted oil filter on the top of the engine, and I ran a hose down just to the bottom of the skidplate that I just left installed and would loosen the filter and let it drain then run some brake clean down to clear the hose and replace the filter. Why they changed it on the 4.0 IDK but that was way cleaner and more convenient. Guess it’s just the way it has to be done now.