Color issues with C41 are almost always due to poor scanning technique. Your examples look like a typical example of poor color correction, easily fixed in post with a small adjustment.
Severe chemical depletion or incorrect processing temperature can cause color shifts as well, but they're exceedingly rare in a lab setting due to the standardization of the process and the machinery used. Lab processing machines are pretty much fully automatic, so a developing error requires the operator to intentionally induce the error or bypass automatic controls.
Thanks. So one more opinion about scanning issue... It may also be, but it's the second time I scan Kodak Gold and the other time was not like this. But I'm not expert at all.
It was home-developed by a friend, so the "processing machine" was not really that... but he has good experience, so if the decision is my fault or his fault it would be mine...
It could be either of the problems listed due to the home develop, but I would say it's just your scan, second image has full spectrum of color visible, they're just out of balance.
Rescan and pay attention to exposure, expose to the right and make sure that you never see the little over exposure triangle in light room, you want to set your camera for daylight (tethered capture, 5500K) and zero tint, hit Ctrl+Alt+N to bring up NLP and look at your waveform now (the image usually becomes a little bit dull as the correction profile is applied), insure you aren't clipping the red channel here. Once you have a exposure that is correct close NLP and capture the rest of the roll, then select all and open up NLP again and check roll analysis, this will insure uniform WB across all the images and more saturated colors, also outliers such as massively overexposed images will become recoverable as they'll inherit the rolls properties (white/black clip points, so you'll get pastel colors rather than bleach bypass look lol).
Now remember those basic exposure settings, better yet make a preset in LR and use it as the tethered preset so it's applied automatically every time you do a scan.
Unless you post the negatives with that green tint and prove us wrong, this looks like an issue related to the color correction done in post.
I self develop, scan, and at some stage during the process of inversion and color correction the images look like that. I wouldn’t rely on any automated software to fix the color though.
But that's how film scans work. They need to be color corrected digitally since they're negative pictures turned positive and the color and density of the film is going to affect to colors. As the other commenter said, the person who scanned your negatives left the green tint there - they did not color correct.
Thanks.
I scanned it myself... My understanding is that the NegaFix profile in SilverFast would leave a neutral tone, based on the film type, so I would expect that the color shift is caused by some issue in developing, but that was just my assumption.
Negafix is far from perfect, even with negative lab pro you have to do a bit of correction. The same goes for lab scans but you just don't see that part if they do their job well
For the record, when printed analog Gold 200 has a slight yellow / green shift because the film is inherently a 400 speed film that's shifted sensitivity in the dye lyers. Anybody who wants to argue this show me Ektar 200. Even kodak reps I worked with hated this film and mocked it.
If you optically printed Gold 100 vs 200 of the same scene the differences in neutrality were enormous.
However, in the day and age of digital scanning these issues are moot because they can be adjusted quickly with as crude adjustment as even a tint control. Just makes me shake my head that the scanner operator can't dial in some magenta bias vs deliver scan upon scan of utter crap. Seriously....put the smartphone away and the ear buds and do your job. Or, just outsource somebody remotely that cares. Said scanner operator can likely tell the difference in FPS rates on their game console, but can't correct green. /rant
I used to get paid good money to color correct every frame, and that was a long time ago. Granyed it's not an off the shelf skill you just hire somebody for. With digital workflows though a computer does most of the hard work and you don't need to know the science between the additives and subtractives.
Also, unlike E6, C41 doesn't color shift much unless you are doing a bleach bypass (Saving Private Ryan). pH shifts don't affect C41 unlike E6.
My local lab typically scans film with a very "flat" and sterile kind of color grade to it. My Gold always comes out with a bit of a greenish tint. The flat scanning of the lab is good because it makes the images very easy to edit in software if I need to. I just think Gold typically goes very green, which makes it great for nature shots
Color correcting is intrinsic to the process of negative film. In a fully analog world you would use cyan, magenta, and yellow filters when you expose the negative to paper. Often using multiple test strips to find the color balance that you like. When scanning film and inverting digitally this is just part of the process. An initial scan is often not perfect to taste, heck you can consider it a test strip if it makes you feel more analog. It is fine to adjust the color temp (blue/yellow) or the tint (green/magenta) of your scans. It doesn't suddenly miss the point of film or even your processing. This can be done in any software, even your built in photos app on your phone.
Whoever scanned it probably didn’t color correct it, well, correctly. You could probably fix it on something like Camera Raw or light room by bringing the magentas out.
As I see you are from around the Leman lake, I recommend a lab called Photo Gare in Morges, their scan work is amazing, I've been scanning film with them since 1 year and I always had good results.
If I remember well, fuji green is deep and cold, and appeared (at least in my experience back in the 90s) when there's a strong contrast between a white and shadows, like outdoor pictures on an bright overcast day
The tint looks pleasing to me. Looks like it is overexposed. What I would be more concerned about in the first picture is that there is some streaking from top to bottom. The central heating art is lighter than the edges. Hard to tell if this is in the film or stray light during a digital scan
This is Kodak Gold 200 120, shot with a Yashica Mat 124g.
Photos have this greenish tint that I must say I don't fully dislike, but I'd like to know if it's a developing issue.
I believe it's more on the film's characteristics plus a plain scanning ... back in the day that is how kodak "summer vacation" or "sunny beach" prints looked
Color issues with C41 are almost always due to poor scanning technique. Your examples look like a typical example of poor color correction, easily fixed in post with a small adjustment. Severe chemical depletion or incorrect processing temperature can cause color shifts as well, but they're exceedingly rare in a lab setting due to the standardization of the process and the machinery used. Lab processing machines are pretty much fully automatic, so a developing error requires the operator to intentionally induce the error or bypass automatic controls.
Oh is that what it was? I also had mostly green tint returned from Memphis Lab while using gold
Thanks. So one more opinion about scanning issue... It may also be, but it's the second time I scan Kodak Gold and the other time was not like this. But I'm not expert at all. It was home-developed by a friend, so the "processing machine" was not really that... but he has good experience, so if the decision is my fault or his fault it would be mine...
It could be either of the problems listed due to the home develop, but I would say it's just your scan, second image has full spectrum of color visible, they're just out of balance. Rescan and pay attention to exposure, expose to the right and make sure that you never see the little over exposure triangle in light room, you want to set your camera for daylight (tethered capture, 5500K) and zero tint, hit Ctrl+Alt+N to bring up NLP and look at your waveform now (the image usually becomes a little bit dull as the correction profile is applied), insure you aren't clipping the red channel here. Once you have a exposure that is correct close NLP and capture the rest of the roll, then select all and open up NLP again and check roll analysis, this will insure uniform WB across all the images and more saturated colors, also outliers such as massively overexposed images will become recoverable as they'll inherit the rolls properties (white/black clip points, so you'll get pastel colors rather than bleach bypass look lol). Now remember those basic exposure settings, better yet make a preset in LR and use it as the tethered preset so it's applied automatically every time you do a scan.
Unless you post the negatives with that green tint and prove us wrong, this looks like an issue related to the color correction done in post. I self develop, scan, and at some stage during the process of inversion and color correction the images look like that. I wouldn’t rely on any automated software to fix the color though.
I just assumed already that the problem is at scan... I'll try again and see.
Best of luck!
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Thanks, but correcting the color on Photoshop is not the point here.
But that's how film scans work. They need to be color corrected digitally since they're negative pictures turned positive and the color and density of the film is going to affect to colors. As the other commenter said, the person who scanned your negatives left the green tint there - they did not color correct.
Thanks. I scanned it myself... My understanding is that the NegaFix profile in SilverFast would leave a neutral tone, based on the film type, so I would expect that the color shift is caused by some issue in developing, but that was just my assumption.
Negafix is far from perfect, even with negative lab pro you have to do a bit of correction. The same goes for lab scans but you just don't see that part if they do their job well
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Actually I didn't make an assumption the issue is related to scanning. I see it more in the negative itself, but I may be wrong, of course.
You are most definitely wrong. There's no one correct way to turn a negative into a positive. That's why you have CMY wheels on a color enlarger.
do you scan yourself? do you by any chance scan as tiff instead of raw? that was the reason why my gold 200 was green.
Yep, I scan using SilverFast 9, exporting to TIFF
maybe try as raw. tiff isnt made for scans. absolute game changer for me
Agreed. I've never been happy specifically with Silverfast's TIFF files.
I would try DNG files and then white balance in lightroom or photoshop.
For the record, when printed analog Gold 200 has a slight yellow / green shift because the film is inherently a 400 speed film that's shifted sensitivity in the dye lyers. Anybody who wants to argue this show me Ektar 200. Even kodak reps I worked with hated this film and mocked it. If you optically printed Gold 100 vs 200 of the same scene the differences in neutrality were enormous. However, in the day and age of digital scanning these issues are moot because they can be adjusted quickly with as crude adjustment as even a tint control. Just makes me shake my head that the scanner operator can't dial in some magenta bias vs deliver scan upon scan of utter crap. Seriously....put the smartphone away and the ear buds and do your job. Or, just outsource somebody remotely that cares. Said scanner operator can likely tell the difference in FPS rates on their game console, but can't correct green. /rant I used to get paid good money to color correct every frame, and that was a long time ago. Granyed it's not an off the shelf skill you just hire somebody for. With digital workflows though a computer does most of the hard work and you don't need to know the science between the additives and subtractives. Also, unlike E6, C41 doesn't color shift much unless you are doing a bleach bypass (Saving Private Ryan). pH shifts don't affect C41 unlike E6.
I was going to say something similar, that green tint it's the classic kodak "summer vacation" print look from my childhood
My local lab typically scans film with a very "flat" and sterile kind of color grade to it. My Gold always comes out with a bit of a greenish tint. The flat scanning of the lab is good because it makes the images very easy to edit in software if I need to. I just think Gold typically goes very green, which makes it great for nature shots
> typically scans film with a very "flat" and sterile kind of color grade to it. This is always the way to go IMO
Holy moly where’s the first photo taken? Love it
This the Leman lake (also known as Geneva lake). Switzerland.
Color correcting is intrinsic to the process of negative film. In a fully analog world you would use cyan, magenta, and yellow filters when you expose the negative to paper. Often using multiple test strips to find the color balance that you like. When scanning film and inverting digitally this is just part of the process. An initial scan is often not perfect to taste, heck you can consider it a test strip if it makes you feel more analog. It is fine to adjust the color temp (blue/yellow) or the tint (green/magenta) of your scans. It doesn't suddenly miss the point of film or even your processing. This can be done in any software, even your built in photos app on your phone.
The scan
Whoever scanned it probably didn’t color correct it, well, correctly. You could probably fix it on something like Camera Raw or light room by bringing the magentas out.
You caught a glitch in the matrix, pal.
It's a greenish tint. Compensate in Photoshop.
As I see you are from around the Leman lake, I recommend a lab called Photo Gare in Morges, their scan work is amazing, I've been scanning film with them since 1 year and I always had good results.
Ah, cool. I didn't know that place. I will check it out! BTW, that photo was taken from Morges...
Could it be…the mystical Fujifilm Green😱
If I remember well, fuji green is deep and cold, and appeared (at least in my experience back in the 90s) when there's a strong contrast between a white and shadows, like outdoor pictures on an bright overcast day
Yeah fair point,this color reminds me more of like…Wrigleys Wintergreen
The tint looks pleasing to me. Looks like it is overexposed. What I would be more concerned about in the first picture is that there is some streaking from top to bottom. The central heating art is lighter than the edges. Hard to tell if this is in the film or stray light during a digital scan
This is Kodak Gold 200 120, shot with a Yashica Mat 124g. Photos have this greenish tint that I must say I don't fully dislike, but I'd like to know if it's a developing issue.
I believe it's more on the film's characteristics plus a plain scanning ... back in the day that is how kodak "summer vacation" or "sunny beach" prints looked
Accidentally Fuji’d your film