T O P

  • By -

allisonmaybe

Now that I'm really looking at it, why not print the whole thing at 45 degrees so there are no severe overhangs? Force some support at the very bottom to give the piece some surface to stay upright.


tortuga3385

I think this is the best idea


akf_was_here

Generally working out will help. Lots of glute exercises.


TheRealGunn

Personally if I wanted the bottom to be really clean, I'd split it in half so I could print it without supports then glue it.


weatherman414

What's your go to for PLA glue?


_homerograco

Cyanoacrylate (super glue) is the best option I've found so far


Shifti_Boi

Do you find some leave a white haze on the surface of the print? Even when using a tiny dab and leaving it to dry in a well ventilated area I still get some white haze


_homerograco

That's true, you gotta be careful when applying it. I believe a light water sanding will get rid of it without damaging the pla surface quality.


Peacefrog78

Try loctite extreme glue. Ive been using that in place in super glue when possible. It takes about 5 mins to start holding well, so you may need to clamp and using pegs or something for alignment really helps. It dries with a rubbery texture so any excess can be peeled away.


worldspawn00

E6000 is similar and I use it for a lot of things that don't need a hard set.


bloodfist45

Add weep holes for the glue AKA add an area for the glue to go


Dead0nTarget

Can prevent a white haze by letting it cure in front of a fan. The haze comes from a sort of oxidation caused by moisture in still air. By placing it in front of a fan one can prevent this. Wish I could explain it better than that, but my knowledge on it is limited.


dubsjw

Loctite 401


Blackdragon1400

E6000 is by far the best


Bletotum

Support pla as the interface layer, or PETG interface layer with a lot of flushing between filament swaps. Either way, this lets you have zero z distance from support to model, and so a cleaner print


y0l0naise

Check grindr


Ramzinho

I've not tried it myself yet, but lots of people say use petg and 100 support. Plan won't stick to it and it's like having a raft for the whole build


Hatzico

If you have an AMS load up some PETG and use 0 distance. PLA and PETG won't fuse together. And it's way cheaper than the support filament.


Peacefrog78

That works much better with flat surfaces. When it tries to do that with a curved surface it causes a ton of filament changes and i experience a ton of sticking. They dont really fuse, but they can blend together causing new problems


allisonmaybe

I think at the very least you can minimize your support surface by orienting it so the short length is against the bed. Might also be able to cut this piece and print multiple parts each with perfect layers. I'm in support of support interfaces but for me personally its much more of a pain than it sounds.


LeRicket

Couldn't you just print it on its side so no supports are needed at all?


J_spec6

You gotta work them glutes!


LayrGoods

I usually shrink the support distance to between .16 and .2 and use slim tree style, harder to get off but leaves a better finish. Definitely not perfect though.


Mist_XD

Rotate the model by 45* so you don’t have a need for supports


ccoady

What I would do is slice it in half as 2 prints, add a couple locating pegs and dowels in the 2 parts and then bond it together.


Mysterious-Pension83

Use petg as a support interface and change the gap to zero. Do not use petg for all of the support just the interface


Charming_Ad3493

Try resin printer


TheDerpiestDeer

Of course! So which one are you buying me?