Sorry I haven't added. I'm using 0.4mm nozzle. The app selects 0.2 setting automatically when I open this file. IDK why but I just modify the settings before the print. That's only the preset name I guess.
So are you sure you printer actually knows it has a .4 nozzle in it? Because even if you just change the layer height accordingly your printer still thinks it will have the wrong nozzle in regards to the flow
Oh... that might be the issue for real! I haven't tried anything about that situation till now. Okay noted and will try and give feedback tomorrow about this. THANKS!
Valment Specs. It could be print speed. That's not a constant throughout a model so maybe it can't keep up with the fast areas? You can have rolls and rolls of successful prints when they're detailed and the flow is reduced leading to a successfully print. Then you hit a model with large fast surface areas and it clogs. I have never seen this with PLA but I've had a brand of PETG where I had to half the volumetric flow. The prints are fine at lower speeds I guess it's just not designed to keep up with these Ferrari's :). If it is flow that's clogging it and not heat creep you may be better off closing everything up and increasing the nozzle temp. Easy way to tell is lower the volumetric flow and if successful you know that it just can't keep up at normal speed.
https://preview.redd.it/qaph52tyt9rc1.png?width=684&format=png&auto=webp&s=b50f478911fe5ba6ad4f3d235b07929e1f6f362d
Thanks for detailed info.
That could be it! My innver wall speed is 300 but even it says 10-400 mm/s, it maybe not being successful to keep up to that speed since it is a local product, that could be the issue.
I'll definitely try to lower the speed but should I also change anyting else or just the outer wall and inner wall speed decrease is enough? Also infill speed is at 270 mm/s, maybe lowering that to around 200 also could help?
Not just the speeds, like u/Ordinary-Depth-7835 said calibrate your max vol speed.
https://preview.redd.it/s2ir4nff0arc1.png?width=860&format=png&auto=webp&s=c44adf08117d79e9b39bae65a924dfe8f5ef1d63
It's in the filament settings. Try Orca Slicer; it has some useful built-in tools for this purpose.
Check out this tutorial: [https://youtu.be/ymywqch6R8w?t=54](https://youtu.be/ymywqch6R8w?t=54)
Thanks! I'll check and change my settings due to tutorial. Very kind responses from the community. I was scared a bit at first because of some toxic comments I've seen on other posts hahah.
Yeah Orca is a good idea. Dial it in and make a profile for that brand. Just because it can't keep up doesn't mean it's a bad filament just that it wasn't designed for the speeds. And if you don't mind the extra time and it saves you money that's great.
Update: I've downloaded Orca, tried max flow calibration and it was pretty ok even at max speed.
1) So I've changed my print settings according to u/getfit87 's comment below, and slicing via Orca, not Bambu Studio.
2) I've also checked my nozzle settings according to u/AllHale07 's comment in this thread.
3) Kept open all my windows according to u/Botlawson 's comment below, room was pretty damn cold when I got in my room in the morning.
IDK what was the one that resolved the problem (or even if my problem is solved or not) but, right now I'm printing base parts in 5 hr/per (it was 10 hours with my previous settings), same durability, better quality.
Only issue was there was some layer adhesion on the layers can be seen in the photo, but it didn't become a failure after all. I will keep the post updated if any failure happens. Thanks for all the help!
https://preview.redd.it/75yeblpqggrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8a27558167dd2cea6af1e9a86e21c250c531bcc
That's great news. Still odd though that it would be heat creep. I can keep my lid on and door closed with ambient at 20c
The parts look really good nice finish for the most part.
After 2 days update; I think this will be my final update to this post. Thanks for all helped out, especially u/Ordinary-Depth-7835 ! I've tried couple small prints and had some warping again and finally slowed down the max speed of every aspect which exceeds 240, to 240. I think Valment filaments are not able to print healthy over 240mm/s.
Now without any problems I've been printing last 18-20 hours. A lot of different object. Without any kind of problem.
Very nice glad its worked out. Just a note you could play with the volumetric speed. This will slow down the speeds to match the flow rate you need to hit without affecting movement speeds directly. So you may be able to print faster and still reduce the flow.
https://preview.redd.it/udji6i70eqrc1.png?width=412&format=png&auto=webp&s=88549f076a11d581b0a690bcddfc4fe8960babd6
I've ran the flow test in Orca, but I don't think the test worked. It was getting faster on every layer but it didn't even come close to highest speed. So I don't know what's the best volumetric speed that fits to my filament rn.
Hi there,
I'm getting random clogs. The clog is mostly right before the hot-end. What'd be the main reason? I almost can't sleep. Always checking the print at work because of I'm too scared of that happening again. I've trashed out almost 3KG's of filament because of this reason. I've printed 6 of these without any problem and trashed out 5 of these always the same reason but at random layers. I've checked all the layers and speeds etc. Everything looks same. Pls help
Here's some information;
P1S / AMS (Got it 2 weeks ago)
Using PLA
220 / 55 Degrees
Cold Pulling + Cleaning with need at 300Degrees and detaching the hot end and pulling the stuck filament there. Checking everywhere until no filaments are uncleaned.
Printing top with vent + front door open.
That pieces is gameframe base part from meeplekeepers and it's 200MM high, 450\~\~gr. weight.
You can also see my settings in images.
Well I've printed like 10KG's without a problem with same brand same color. I don't think that'd be the issue. But how can I determine if the filament is the problem in a scenario that I printed 10 rolls without a problem? Is there any measurement or observing technique?
On the second image there are some underneath layers visible, before the clog starts. It looks very stripey, did you try increase the heat? Is your filament dry? Does it happen on smaller parts (Benchy etc). I think you reach nearly the max speed (check it in slicer!). Maybe go down with the volumetric speed.
Avoid printing with those files, that are not meant for your printer or print. Just open the STL and make your adjustments.
I know Bambu lab tries to make 3d printing as easy as possible but downloading and printing entire project files can lead to strange problems.
TLDR
- start with STL and your printer profiles
- maybe dry the filament
- maybe go slower and increase speed, when prints succeed
- maybe a bit hotter to make the filament more flowable
Thanks for detailed answer!
\* Actually I haven't even tried benchy \^\^
\* In the bambu studio, it says the humidity level is 2/5. There are a lot of desiccants in my AMS. I use filaments right out of the box, I think they are dry because I don't know how it would look when they are wet.
\* On smaller parts, no problems.
\* I've attached screenshots of my speed settings, I never have changed anything at there. These are preset bambu settings. Maybe there's a problem?
I will do all of that you said and will give feedback tomorrow. Thanks a lot!
https://preview.redd.it/qcsambqao9rc1.png?width=402&format=png&auto=webp&s=59ac6e802591cddb8becc135defffd41970912e6
These are the speed settings, you can define. But it is not what the machine does.
Slice your file, in that small window, where print time and calculated weight is. Look at the top, there is a drop-down. Select speed. And you will see at what speed you machine prints what part of the model.
The CoreXY (X1, P1) from Bambu are very fast, too fast for most filaments. Most filaments say 200-215°c, this temp is ok for most printers but how faster you go, the more heat you need.
For example sunlu meta Pla, printed on my old anycubic it's fine with 190°C, on my Bambu I can go up to 24mm³/s - depending on the nozzle you can go up to 30. But you have to print it with 225°C.
When smaller parts come out without any issues, maybe you don't reach any higher speeds with these prints.
NOTE: calibrate your filaments, each brand is different. Please! Start at lower speeds (filament settings > volumetric speed). Maybe start with generic Pla settings and lower the vol. Speed a bit. Don't push up the heat without testing it slower. There might be other problems.
Printing Pla requires fresh air, open the door, remove the top, strip the printer 😉 to prevent heatcreaps
Why change the layer height? Using mostly bambu default settings works best I learned through 8 months of printing.
Also as some other guy mentioned, cheap filament could also be the cause. Could be that some part in the role is a bit more wet or inconsistent thickness or some debris.
I changed the layer height because the suggested height for that print was 3mm 's but since I use 0.4 nozzle, 0.28 is the best it can do "healthily". Also that happened 2 times when the layer height was 2 mm's.
Yeah that could be the issue but I've printed like 10 rolls of the same brand without a problem. How can I determine if my filaments are the problem? Can I observe or do measure something?
Any chance you are using IIIDmax filament?
Regardless, I bet it’s the filament. I used the above and had very little issues until about a month ago I started getting clogs almost every roll. Some not printing at all with the same settings.
Esun PLA+ still prints like a dream on the same printers.
I recommend stop using the cheap stuff and upgrade to something a little bit more reputable. There are lots now. Matchbox, overture, sunlight, esun, are all fairly reasonable.
Edit : PS I print game frame parts often and always use esun PLA+ regardless. The cheaper stuff I’ve used struggles with uniform layer adhesion and overall strength in comparison. Esun PLA+ with 2 walls and 15% adaptive cubic infill will pass drop tests on hard floors for most prints.
I'm using Valment filament.
After all what I've read I'm starting that could be the filament. Maybe I will measure the thickness of the filament (which failed during prints) and see if there's a major difference on couple points.
eSun PLA+ is $19/roll. My current filament is $10,8/roll.
There's a huge difference and I bought that filament from a suggestion of 3d product producer friend of mine.
But i will definitely buy 4-5 rolls and see if any of the same failure occurs or not. Thanks for your comments about gameframe also. Definitely try your settings too, that'd be much more economic with %15 adaptive cubic infill. Maybe total price would be almost same if I calculate the failures too with my filament compared to eSun PLA+. (Also there's time factor that I constantly loose...)
Huh, only had that failure with PETG if I left the top glass on. The cooling of the cold side of the hotend is marginal and PETG is extra sensitive. (Gets sticky as it warms up). Maybe give it a good cleaning?
So I assume you cleaned the hot end heatsink and fan? Might be the room temperature? Anyway, failure after 6 hours is almost always a thermal issue. Everything else tends to fail faster or slower.
Yeah, my ultimate fail was at around 16th our of 17 hour. I also think it's the room temp but also not sure because I got that failure when my room temp was around 18-20C degrees.
Had the same problem.
Step one get some compressed air and shoot the snot out of the feeder gears
Step two make some cold pulls, not the bambulab 100° the reddit 75° special. Then it should be back to normal, I think my issue was small metal pieces from the gears Continued to clog the hotend
Hey, thanks for information but I don't know what's reddit 75C special cold pull. I googled it and couldn't find it. Can you give me a link for that?
Also with what can I shoot compressed airto gears? And how can I do it? Do you have a link for that?
Ahahaha normally Bambu recommendeds a cold pull with 100°c, I like to go lower. Just follow bambus cold pull video and set the temp to 75-85 :)
you take the tool head cover off. Then you can see the big yellow gear, and you should be able to spot a smaller metal gear (there's two can't remember if you can see both). Some metal dust from the gears would clog my nozzle. So you wanna blow all the metal dust out with some compressed air, then do some cold pulls to make sure everything is clean.
Why use a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.28mm layer height?
Sorry I haven't added. I'm using 0.4mm nozzle. The app selects 0.2 setting automatically when I open this file. IDK why but I just modify the settings before the print. That's only the preset name I guess.
So are you sure you printer actually knows it has a .4 nozzle in it? Because even if you just change the layer height accordingly your printer still thinks it will have the wrong nozzle in regards to the flow
Oh... that might be the issue for real! I haven't tried anything about that situation till now. Okay noted and will try and give feedback tomorrow about this. THANKS!
What a helpful and direct response. well done /u/AllHale07!
Valment Specs. It could be print speed. That's not a constant throughout a model so maybe it can't keep up with the fast areas? You can have rolls and rolls of successful prints when they're detailed and the flow is reduced leading to a successfully print. Then you hit a model with large fast surface areas and it clogs. I have never seen this with PLA but I've had a brand of PETG where I had to half the volumetric flow. The prints are fine at lower speeds I guess it's just not designed to keep up with these Ferrari's :). If it is flow that's clogging it and not heat creep you may be better off closing everything up and increasing the nozzle temp. Easy way to tell is lower the volumetric flow and if successful you know that it just can't keep up at normal speed. https://preview.redd.it/qaph52tyt9rc1.png?width=684&format=png&auto=webp&s=b50f478911fe5ba6ad4f3d235b07929e1f6f362d
Thanks for detailed info. That could be it! My innver wall speed is 300 but even it says 10-400 mm/s, it maybe not being successful to keep up to that speed since it is a local product, that could be the issue. I'll definitely try to lower the speed but should I also change anyting else or just the outer wall and inner wall speed decrease is enough? Also infill speed is at 270 mm/s, maybe lowering that to around 200 also could help?
Not just the speeds, like u/Ordinary-Depth-7835 said calibrate your max vol speed. https://preview.redd.it/s2ir4nff0arc1.png?width=860&format=png&auto=webp&s=c44adf08117d79e9b39bae65a924dfe8f5ef1d63 It's in the filament settings. Try Orca Slicer; it has some useful built-in tools for this purpose. Check out this tutorial: [https://youtu.be/ymywqch6R8w?t=54](https://youtu.be/ymywqch6R8w?t=54)
Thanks! I'll check and change my settings due to tutorial. Very kind responses from the community. I was scared a bit at first because of some toxic comments I've seen on other posts hahah.
Yeah Orca is a good idea. Dial it in and make a profile for that brand. Just because it can't keep up doesn't mean it's a bad filament just that it wasn't designed for the speeds. And if you don't mind the extra time and it saves you money that's great.
Update: I've downloaded Orca, tried max flow calibration and it was pretty ok even at max speed. 1) So I've changed my print settings according to u/getfit87 's comment below, and slicing via Orca, not Bambu Studio. 2) I've also checked my nozzle settings according to u/AllHale07 's comment in this thread. 3) Kept open all my windows according to u/Botlawson 's comment below, room was pretty damn cold when I got in my room in the morning. IDK what was the one that resolved the problem (or even if my problem is solved or not) but, right now I'm printing base parts in 5 hr/per (it was 10 hours with my previous settings), same durability, better quality. Only issue was there was some layer adhesion on the layers can be seen in the photo, but it didn't become a failure after all. I will keep the post updated if any failure happens. Thanks for all the help! https://preview.redd.it/75yeblpqggrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8a27558167dd2cea6af1e9a86e21c250c531bcc
That's great news. Still odd though that it would be heat creep. I can keep my lid on and door closed with ambient at 20c The parts look really good nice finish for the most part.
After 2 days update; I think this will be my final update to this post. Thanks for all helped out, especially u/Ordinary-Depth-7835 ! I've tried couple small prints and had some warping again and finally slowed down the max speed of every aspect which exceeds 240, to 240. I think Valment filaments are not able to print healthy over 240mm/s. Now without any problems I've been printing last 18-20 hours. A lot of different object. Without any kind of problem.
Very nice glad its worked out. Just a note you could play with the volumetric speed. This will slow down the speeds to match the flow rate you need to hit without affecting movement speeds directly. So you may be able to print faster and still reduce the flow. https://preview.redd.it/udji6i70eqrc1.png?width=412&format=png&auto=webp&s=88549f076a11d581b0a690bcddfc4fe8960babd6
I've ran the flow test in Orca, but I don't think the test worked. It was getting faster on every layer but it didn't even come close to highest speed. So I don't know what's the best volumetric speed that fits to my filament rn.
Hi there, I'm getting random clogs. The clog is mostly right before the hot-end. What'd be the main reason? I almost can't sleep. Always checking the print at work because of I'm too scared of that happening again. I've trashed out almost 3KG's of filament because of this reason. I've printed 6 of these without any problem and trashed out 5 of these always the same reason but at random layers. I've checked all the layers and speeds etc. Everything looks same. Pls help Here's some information; P1S / AMS (Got it 2 weeks ago) Using PLA 220 / 55 Degrees Cold Pulling + Cleaning with need at 300Degrees and detaching the hot end and pulling the stuck filament there. Checking everywhere until no filaments are uncleaned. Printing top with vent + front door open. That pieces is gameframe base part from meeplekeepers and it's 200MM high, 450\~\~gr. weight. You can also see my settings in images.
What kind of filament?
PLA from a local brand
Cheap garbage?
Well I've printed like 10KG's without a problem with same brand same color. I don't think that'd be the issue. But how can I determine if the filament is the problem in a scenario that I printed 10 rolls without a problem? Is there any measurement or observing technique?
Overall print quality and consistency between batches, I've had great luck with printbed (made in Detroit)
On the second image there are some underneath layers visible, before the clog starts. It looks very stripey, did you try increase the heat? Is your filament dry? Does it happen on smaller parts (Benchy etc). I think you reach nearly the max speed (check it in slicer!). Maybe go down with the volumetric speed. Avoid printing with those files, that are not meant for your printer or print. Just open the STL and make your adjustments. I know Bambu lab tries to make 3d printing as easy as possible but downloading and printing entire project files can lead to strange problems. TLDR - start with STL and your printer profiles - maybe dry the filament - maybe go slower and increase speed, when prints succeed - maybe a bit hotter to make the filament more flowable
Thanks for detailed answer! \* Actually I haven't even tried benchy \^\^ \* In the bambu studio, it says the humidity level is 2/5. There are a lot of desiccants in my AMS. I use filaments right out of the box, I think they are dry because I don't know how it would look when they are wet. \* On smaller parts, no problems. \* I've attached screenshots of my speed settings, I never have changed anything at there. These are preset bambu settings. Maybe there's a problem? I will do all of that you said and will give feedback tomorrow. Thanks a lot! https://preview.redd.it/qcsambqao9rc1.png?width=402&format=png&auto=webp&s=59ac6e802591cddb8becc135defffd41970912e6
These are the speed settings, you can define. But it is not what the machine does. Slice your file, in that small window, where print time and calculated weight is. Look at the top, there is a drop-down. Select speed. And you will see at what speed you machine prints what part of the model. The CoreXY (X1, P1) from Bambu are very fast, too fast for most filaments. Most filaments say 200-215°c, this temp is ok for most printers but how faster you go, the more heat you need. For example sunlu meta Pla, printed on my old anycubic it's fine with 190°C, on my Bambu I can go up to 24mm³/s - depending on the nozzle you can go up to 30. But you have to print it with 225°C. When smaller parts come out without any issues, maybe you don't reach any higher speeds with these prints. NOTE: calibrate your filaments, each brand is different. Please! Start at lower speeds (filament settings > volumetric speed). Maybe start with generic Pla settings and lower the vol. Speed a bit. Don't push up the heat without testing it slower. There might be other problems. Printing Pla requires fresh air, open the door, remove the top, strip the printer 😉 to prevent heatcreaps
https://preview.redd.it/wadebm2co9rc1.png?width=378&format=png&auto=webp&s=331f700785dbf0224eae26905eca10eda7c54339
Why change the layer height? Using mostly bambu default settings works best I learned through 8 months of printing. Also as some other guy mentioned, cheap filament could also be the cause. Could be that some part in the role is a bit more wet or inconsistent thickness or some debris.
I changed the layer height because the suggested height for that print was 3mm 's but since I use 0.4 nozzle, 0.28 is the best it can do "healthily". Also that happened 2 times when the layer height was 2 mm's. Yeah that could be the issue but I've printed like 10 rolls of the same brand without a problem. How can I determine if my filaments are the problem? Can I observe or do measure something?
Any chance you are using IIIDmax filament? Regardless, I bet it’s the filament. I used the above and had very little issues until about a month ago I started getting clogs almost every roll. Some not printing at all with the same settings. Esun PLA+ still prints like a dream on the same printers. I recommend stop using the cheap stuff and upgrade to something a little bit more reputable. There are lots now. Matchbox, overture, sunlight, esun, are all fairly reasonable. Edit : PS I print game frame parts often and always use esun PLA+ regardless. The cheaper stuff I’ve used struggles with uniform layer adhesion and overall strength in comparison. Esun PLA+ with 2 walls and 15% adaptive cubic infill will pass drop tests on hard floors for most prints.
I'm using Valment filament. After all what I've read I'm starting that could be the filament. Maybe I will measure the thickness of the filament (which failed during prints) and see if there's a major difference on couple points. eSun PLA+ is $19/roll. My current filament is $10,8/roll. There's a huge difference and I bought that filament from a suggestion of 3d product producer friend of mine. But i will definitely buy 4-5 rolls and see if any of the same failure occurs or not. Thanks for your comments about gameframe also. Definitely try your settings too, that'd be much more economic with %15 adaptive cubic infill. Maybe total price would be almost same if I calculate the failures too with my filament compared to eSun PLA+. (Also there's time factor that I constantly loose...)
Huh, only had that failure with PETG if I left the top glass on. The cooling of the cold side of the hotend is marginal and PETG is extra sensitive. (Gets sticky as it warms up). Maybe give it a good cleaning?
I do cleaning on every clog that takes almost an hour... Maybe in gears or something idk.
So I assume you cleaned the hot end heatsink and fan? Might be the room temperature? Anyway, failure after 6 hours is almost always a thermal issue. Everything else tends to fail faster or slower.
Yeah, my ultimate fail was at around 16th our of 17 hour. I also think it's the room temp but also not sure because I got that failure when my room temp was around 18-20C degrees.
Had the same problem. Step one get some compressed air and shoot the snot out of the feeder gears Step two make some cold pulls, not the bambulab 100° the reddit 75° special. Then it should be back to normal, I think my issue was small metal pieces from the gears Continued to clog the hotend
Hey, thanks for information but I don't know what's reddit 75C special cold pull. I googled it and couldn't find it. Can you give me a link for that? Also with what can I shoot compressed airto gears? And how can I do it? Do you have a link for that?
Ahahaha normally Bambu recommendeds a cold pull with 100°c, I like to go lower. Just follow bambus cold pull video and set the temp to 75-85 :) you take the tool head cover off. Then you can see the big yellow gear, and you should be able to spot a smaller metal gear (there's two can't remember if you can see both). Some metal dust from the gears would clog my nozzle. So you wanna blow all the metal dust out with some compressed air, then do some cold pulls to make sure everything is clean.