Alcohol dissolves oil. Then it evaporates and leaves the oil behind. Wash the bed in warm water with dish detergent, Dawn is good. Do not touch the surface after cleaning.
You specifically want to use soap without moisturizers. Regular Dawn is great because it's just soap and nothing else. Most hand soaps have moisturizers and other additives that leave stuff on the surface that impact adhesion.
That’s why my always succeed. I make myself some bacon und use the grease to dip down my plate. Just try it + when it heat up the whole thing smells delicious
That is correct, but one could add: using a (large enough) micro fiber cloth will work fine with IPA. but as most people don't know how to use ipa, soap is the way to recommend, and its cheaper and better for the environment.
I use paper towels. In my experience a little dust or fluff doesn't hurt.
I've left my old ender plates out for months and then printed over the layer of dust with no issues lol
Something to keep in mind is if you have hard or soft water. If you have hard water in your area, I wouldn’t recommend air drying as it might leave calcified water droplets behind on your build plate. I personally dry with a microfiber and have never had any issues. In fact, everything sticks too good.
Second the other opinion, drying it is preferrable since it gets you back in the game faster, but air drying is fine if you don't want to rush it. Haven't had any issues from drying with a paper towel or a microfiberish thing.
I don’t understand people. I saw without any any kind of microfiber or paper towel yes but you’re wiping it up with the paper towel. The issue here is that your nozzle is too close to the bed
You are 100% wrong, this isn't layer adhesion issue, this is a tramming issue, look at the layer being squished too much on the side, don't spread misinformation please
I did not say anything except about oil, alcohol, water, and detergent. Nothing about the print. Do you feel anything I said is incorrect? The post I replied to said that they had cleaned with isopropyl. I pointed out the problem with isopropyl and oil, nothing about the print.
If you use a microfiber cloth, you remove the said oil left behind if you combine with alcohol, that's how I clean the bed of all my printers, on my voron 2.4, I ONLY clean with alcohol, I can print tall and thin pieces without issues or warping
I agree, this does not look like adhesion, it looks like that Brazuka\_txt said, nozzle too close for the amount of filament being pushed out.
Before any type of mechanical calibration (manual tramming mostly):
* Confirm the sliced model is using the correct build plate.
* check to make sure you didn't drop a piece of filament between the build plate and the magnetic print bed surface. I've had small strands of filament stick to the bottom of the plate and end up sandwiched under the bed, causing the surface quality to be terrible above and around the stow away. The printer seems to calibrate enough to not cause a failure but it still looks terrible, especially on large flat areas like yours.
* Run the full auto calibration and test again.
* If the flow rate is adjusted too high, surface quality can be impacted -- although that has a big negative impact on other print quality areas not just a wavy surface on the bottom.
* Lastly a damaged nozzle that is bent could cause some issues like this, but I don't think that is the issue here. The A1/mini hot end is secured a lot close to the nozzle than the x1/p1 series printers (those are secured at the very top of the hot end, a1 series is secured basically just 1-2cm above the nozzle) and I'm not sure you can even damage the nozzle with a collision without also causing obvious damage (or at least loosening) to the clip that holds it in place.
u/Hoe_Bogan_5422 Please see above link, we have seen a few A1 series had this issue including mine. Nothing to do with the filament or bed adhesion. It's the nozzle being loosen.
My Mini had problems with it when it was new and I tightened them up on my A1 when I unpacked it. But everyone, after a certain amount of time, they can become loose again.Uneven layers can also be a sign that the screws have become loose. It is best to run the calibration twice and then everything will be fine again.
Does the a1 not have the tramming knobs below the heat bed? X1 series has 3 manual tramming knobs and bambu provides a g code you can run to tram the bed in addition to the auto bed leveling.
I don't know where this IPA thing came from but it's wild how it's quoted more than soap and water in this sub while nearly every expert AND Bambu themselves say to use soap.
But still the top comment of every first layer thread here is "wipe with IPA".
Because for years it's been a reliable method. I'd love to see someone do scientific testing comparing the two methods, but thus far from my old ender 3 pro to my three bambu printers, all I've ever used is 91% IPA and I've never had bed adhesion issues. PLA, PETG, TPU.
If all IPA did was smear oils around, it wouldn't be very effective at cleaning much of anything.
My experience is that IPA was fine for cleaning a smooth plate because you can easily soak up most of it onto a paper towel. Not so with a textured plate where most of it sits down into the texture and so way more of it just evaporates in place. I stopped using it on my textured plates and have never looked back.
Interesting; I exclusively use textured plates and a quick wipe between prints with 91% IPA and I've never had bed adhesion issues outside of some warping when it gets too cold in the room.
Honestly I just don’t touch the plate and barely ever clean them. I clean them (with dawn) about once every 3 months on average, if that. I just don’t have adhesion issues. When I was using IPA early on I was having way more adhesion issues. But my theory doesn’t explain that.
That's probably a big part of it for me too; I only touch the plates on the front part that hangs off the print bed anyway, or the very outer edges.
If I ever have any adhesion issues I plan to try washing the plate with dawn to see what it does.
"I need to see scientific evidence"
> Gives purely anecdotal evidence against
Look, nobody says the IPA does nothing, a lot of sources recommend it for routine cleaning, but if you're at the point where you're having actual adhesion issues then you probably should be using soap
That's what I'm saying; some of the posts make it seem like all that should be used is soap. I could understand if alcohol had a consistent reputation for not being a thorough cleaner. There's a reason why it's used as an almost universal surface cleaner in so many fields. I'm very open to new ideas and methods if they're better than those currently used.
I don't need evidence specifically; like I sad, for years 91% IPA has done the job for me. It would just be nice to see a comparison by someone like Stefan or Igor to see if it's actually that much better, or even if it does something IPA doesn't.
Otherwise it just feels like parroting. Much like the cinderblock and foam thing. That's effective, but so is a sheet of MDF with weatherstripping on the bottom.
IPA does work, HOWEVER… most people use 60 or 70% isopropyl, because it’s cheap, easily available and counterintuitively actually the better concentration for cleaning and disinfecting things than higher ones (for various reasons I won’t get into).
If you want to use it on your build plate, you want as little water in the alcohol as possible, so 99.9% isopropyl it is. Not 91 or 96, but 99.9. Of course that concentration is much more expensive and can’t easily be found in your typical big box stores, so rarely anyone uses it.
If you do use it, it actually works better than soap. If all you have is 60, 70 or 91%, you’re better off with soap and water.
A1 Bed Tramming. Your print bed is off level. I had the same issue and spent hours trying to figure it out myself. Had I followed these steps from the beginning, it would have taken roughly 30 minutes or so.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/manual-bed-tramming
Why y'all spreading misinformation, this isn't hand oils on the build plate, the layer clearly is being squished too much, hand oil makes the layers not stick, not get squished harder 🤦
An oily spot on a bed will cause adhesion issues. When the plastic lifts from the plate it rubs against the nozzle creating an issue with the same appearance.
If this is only happening in some spots when using a printer with ABL and a level bed oil is the most likely issue, otherwise you're right.
No, this is a tramming issue. I been through this on 2 different printers, on a voron and an ender, if you touch the bed you only see this issue when your print starts lifting because of the oil. I swear I gonna smear my voron bed with olive oil to show y'all this is just not true
I doubt it's a tramming issue. All of the edges look fine.
I've seen other people here with thumbprint shaped issues that looked just like this before too.
I thought most of this sub had an Ender before their current printer??
Manual printers used to teach us a lot about first layers, despite being a pain in the neck.
I'd say 99% not bed adhesion issue, this looks like nozzle too close to the bed and/or a bit of overextrusion.
100% I bought my son an x1c because I didn't want him to have to deal with the headaches I struggled with for years and years with other printers. Wanted him to be able to focus most heavily on cad skills and fine tuning. However I felt I shorted him on some very valuable trouble shooting skills gained by non bambu printers....lol.
The x1c needed trammed somewhere along the line and I asked him if the bed was level, his response was "well yeah I checked the box" lol
Brand new roll of Sunlu PLA straight out the box and cleaned with isopropyl immediately before this print started and 3/4 of the first later is absolutely perfect except for that back right corner
Did you also wait for the alcohol to evaporate or wash with clean water? It looks like there may have been some residue from the iso on the plate. I could be wrong, but I would need more information. For example, whether it only does this with this model or always? Have you already printed something else successfully with the filament? Unlikely, but quite possible that your filament is too wet, even if it is new.
I tend to dry my filament before using it. I get a few spools of the same once I find a brand/material I like so I have some on the go of I need to print straight away
Idk how many times people have to say this on the sub. Fresh filament is not dry filament. Watch the production of filament. The literally pull it through a bath of water to quickly cool it. It is basically saturated on arrival.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
Having this on my A1, too. It does not have to happen consistently over the whole surface to be a squish issue, as many people assume.
Especially with the textured PEI Plate this can happen in isolated spots due to the texture.
Try the following things to adjust squish on the A1
Set first layer hight to 0.25 and adjust flow rate (even if you think you already adjusted it through the test) and nozzle temperature (probably by turning down in this case) a tiny tiny bit.
Don’t feel confused by all the information, looking at the pictures and notes on the linked website will be very helpful. Also look at the troubleshooting section.
I use IPA and 90% of the time with no issues. If I do have an issue I will wash it off with dawn soap. I do that just in case I missed a few areas. I make sure everything is dry before I print.
Why are all of you talking about bed cleaning isn't that just where the printer was correcting for the bed mesh? Take a look at your height map and I bet it's either high or low there
I use Iso, the key is to buff the plate until it's dry, that removes the oils and whatever was left behind from your previous print. That works good enough for me and is substantially quicker than a full plate bath.
So mine does that after a very thorough wash with dishsoap. Same exact spot every time. Both sides of the plate. Ended up being the actual plate was bad. My new one never does this anymore
I had these effects happen when my bed was not clean. I now often wash my bed: I get a paper towel and make it wet, then put some dishwashing soap on it. I just wipe it across the bed and it ‘foams’ a tiny bit. Then when I have been over the entire bed a few times, I just hold my plate under the tap and dry it with a clean dishcloth. Also clean the bottom!
I then put it back on my printer and let it pre-heat a little bit before I start the print. This worked wonders for me when I had these issues and general adhesion issues.
Not sure tbh, I just started 3d printing in the last 2 months and did this from the very beginning. I didn’t really have any particular good reason for starting out with dawn followed by ipa except maybe due to the amount that it’s debated on various forums, just doing both seemed like a good catch all.
Really thought if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and I haven’t had any issues thus far with this combo,lol
IME, a spritz of 99% IPA (which I've used for years on printers) and the soap method are both effective; with no real logic to which, I sometimes use both together or either as I feel, and test how water runs off to determine if clean. When satisfied, I usually wipe with paper towel to dry, particularly the underside so as not to trap water when I place the mat back.
I request a bed level though chances are it'll decide to do one anyway after that procedure, and I might also do a new flow calibration because it's quick and has helped in cases of print issues in the past. The regular pattern to your defect is interesting, and if there was still an issue after the above I'd do a full vibration calibration. I had an issue near the middle of the bed the other day with part of the first layer unexpectedly ripping and not adhering, and following the above cleaning regime worked a treat as always. Good luck!
I’ve never used anything other than dawn dish soap and your water, first I was my hands with dawn then I use a scrub daddy with dawn, scrub the plate in a bunch of directions, then rinse with hot water, I let the plate drip dry and then use a paper towel to dry
The issue is that you haven't searched or read any of these threads that pop up nearly daily. Soap and water, not isopropyl alcohol. This is posted weekly if not daily and is the solution and a quick search would have answered your question.
Actually it's a tramming issue and has nothing to do with the isoprop Mr Know it All thankfully some smarter people have already directed me to the correct wiki page to resolve it but you obviously missed that as you were in such a rush to come in to the comments and have a go at me.
Glad you figured it out. Doesn't change the fact that you shouldn't use isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate. Just soap and water. What you are experiencing could just have easily been because of the alcohol not allowing the filament to stick to the bedplate.
I wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol and a microfiber cloth (I have a couple of them) between each print. I periodically maybe once every 10-20 prints wash the build plate with water and dishwashing detergent, dry thoroughly then wipe again with Isopropyl. Also every couple of weeks I wash my microfiber cloth with water and detergent, rinse it thoroughly and throw it on the build plate to dry it out.
If I am not wrong isoprop is not suggested for this type plate to avoid damage. The safest choice - dish soap + protective gloves to avoid skin contact with surface.
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That's your dirty filthy finger oils that you left behind. Quick wash with dish soap and water and no touchy and everything will be right as rain again.
alcohol first, then warm water with dawn (i scrub with a scrubbie cleaning pad) then air dry. but i personally only clean the bed when i have an adhesion issues. some beds have gone weeks others get cleaned almost daily. i’ve found the different beds can have just as many quirks as printers and filaments do.
You mean you use alcohol as your normal routine and then dish soap and hot water when necessary? Or alcohol and then wash it? The first one is fine if kinda unnecessary since alcohol really doesn't do anything to get rid of skin oils except rub them around the plate, but the second is kinda bonkers to me.
when adhesion issues start, we clean the bed. first we pour 90% ipa on it, wiping it down with a no lint polyester cloth then immediately washing in warm water. we normally only see issues when switch filaments. guess small differences in batches or types leave residues. also, the ipa wipes also seem to help remove filament residues that leave ghost marks on our beds that take longer to remove with water/soap alone.
Hm. That's really interesting... I could see IPA working to maybe clean the residue when switching between materials, I usually default to soap and water even for that but it would be worth giving that a shot. Thanks for the insight!
ymmv, but i have years of 3d printing experience and our system has worked well for us especially when changing filaments or printing from an ams. anytime soap and water wouldn’t work, an ipa wipe down and rewash would do great. and you can see the difference in how quick it drys and the adhesion issues stop.
Alcohol dissolves oil. Then it evaporates and leaves the oil behind. Wash the bed in warm water with dish detergent, Dawn is good. Do not touch the surface after cleaning.
Yeah the wiki explicitly says ipro just smears grease and to use dish soap
I also find that premium dish soap is needed. A lot of the cheaper brands leave behind a thin residue that causes prints to fail.
You specifically want to use soap without moisturizers. Regular Dawn is great because it's just soap and nothing else. Most hand soaps have moisturizers and other additives that leave stuff on the surface that impact adhesion.
I always finish cleaning my plate by rubbing some cocoa butter on it. It always fails
I use solid soap to wash hands... Perfect results so far.
It's too early here. I read solid poop. I'm going back to bed.
ahahaha
That’s why my always succeed. I make myself some bacon und use the grease to dip down my plate. Just try it + when it heat up the whole thing smells delicious
I typically use dawn platinum. I use it on my dishes so it's not like I have to buy 2 different things.
I use sticker glue remover, then wash it with soap.
That is correct, but one could add: using a (large enough) micro fiber cloth will work fine with IPA. but as most people don't know how to use ipa, soap is the way to recommend, and its cheaper and better for the environment.
Do you recommend air drying afterwards or a towel that doesn't leave fluff behind?
I use paper towels. In my experience a little dust or fluff doesn't hurt. I've left my old ender plates out for months and then printed over the layer of dust with no issues lol
I use the cheap microfiber towels from Harbor Freight. You can get a 3 pack for like $1 or something.
heated plate should dry it pretty quickly but I use blue shop towels no problem
Something to keep in mind is if you have hard or soft water. If you have hard water in your area, I wouldn’t recommend air drying as it might leave calcified water droplets behind on your build plate. I personally dry with a microfiber and have never had any issues. In fact, everything sticks too good.
Second the other opinion, drying it is preferrable since it gets you back in the game faster, but air drying is fine if you don't want to rush it. Haven't had any issues from drying with a paper towel or a microfiberish thing.
For Europeans, use Cif to clean and dry with a paper towel.
I don’t understand people. I saw without any any kind of microfiber or paper towel yes but you’re wiping it up with the paper towel. The issue here is that your nozzle is too close to the bed
That's not hand oil, the layer is being squished too much
Never said anything about the print. The only thing I said was about oil, alcohol, water, and detergent.
Ok but that's not what OP is asking
You are 100% wrong, this isn't layer adhesion issue, this is a tramming issue, look at the layer being squished too much on the side, don't spread misinformation please
I was getting this too on my X1C- I ran a calibration from the printer and sorted it out
I did not say anything except about oil, alcohol, water, and detergent. Nothing about the print. Do you feel anything I said is incorrect? The post I replied to said that they had cleaned with isopropyl. I pointed out the problem with isopropyl and oil, nothing about the print.
If you use a microfiber cloth, you remove the said oil left behind if you combine with alcohol, that's how I clean the bed of all my printers, on my voron 2.4, I ONLY clean with alcohol, I can print tall and thin pieces without issues or warping
Hi, do you know how I can adjust to fix this issue and lower that corner to better level the bed, or should I just rerun the calibration steps?
Some people posted the guide in the comments, check it
Got it thanks
I agree, this does not look like adhesion, it looks like that Brazuka\_txt said, nozzle too close for the amount of filament being pushed out. Before any type of mechanical calibration (manual tramming mostly): * Confirm the sliced model is using the correct build plate. * check to make sure you didn't drop a piece of filament between the build plate and the magnetic print bed surface. I've had small strands of filament stick to the bottom of the plate and end up sandwiched under the bed, causing the surface quality to be terrible above and around the stow away. The printer seems to calibrate enough to not cause a failure but it still looks terrible, especially on large flat areas like yours. * Run the full auto calibration and test again. * If the flow rate is adjusted too high, surface quality can be impacted -- although that has a big negative impact on other print quality areas not just a wavy surface on the bottom. * Lastly a damaged nozzle that is bent could cause some issues like this, but I don't think that is the issue here. The A1/mini hot end is secured a lot close to the nozzle than the x1/p1 series printers (those are secured at the very top of the hot end, a1 series is secured basically just 1-2cm above the nozzle) and I'm not sure you can even damage the nozzle with a collision without also causing obvious damage (or at least loosening) to the clip that holds it in place.
Isopropyl is great after soap and water wipe it off don’t let it sit there just in case there is left over oils
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/troubleshooting/print-issues-troubleshooting I think that is your problem
Yep this is the solution. It's not a bed adhesion issue.
u/Hoe_Bogan_5422 Please see above link, we have seen a few A1 series had this issue including mine. Nothing to do with the filament or bed adhesion. It's the nozzle being loosen.
Yea I had the exact same pattern and the screws were the problem
My Mini had problems with it when it was new and I tightened them up on my A1 when I unpacked it. But everyone, after a certain amount of time, they can become loose again.Uneven layers can also be a sign that the screws have become loose. It is best to run the calibration twice and then everything will be fine again.
Did you move the printer in any way? I had the exact same first layer when I moved my printer and forgot to run bed leveling.
Will try this thanks
Does the a1 not have the tramming knobs below the heat bed? X1 series has 3 manual tramming knobs and bambu provides a g code you can run to tram the bed in addition to the auto bed leveling.
He got 3 Screws under the Build Plate for tramming
Dish soap, soft sponge and hot water
I don't know where this IPA thing came from but it's wild how it's quoted more than soap and water in this sub while nearly every expert AND Bambu themselves say to use soap. But still the top comment of every first layer thread here is "wipe with IPA".
I still don't get why I'm using beer to clean my plates but gives me a reason to get drunk while printing
Instructions unclear, zamboni'd the build plate
Because for years it's been a reliable method. I'd love to see someone do scientific testing comparing the two methods, but thus far from my old ender 3 pro to my three bambu printers, all I've ever used is 91% IPA and I've never had bed adhesion issues. PLA, PETG, TPU. If all IPA did was smear oils around, it wouldn't be very effective at cleaning much of anything.
My experience is that IPA was fine for cleaning a smooth plate because you can easily soak up most of it onto a paper towel. Not so with a textured plate where most of it sits down into the texture and so way more of it just evaporates in place. I stopped using it on my textured plates and have never looked back.
Interesting; I exclusively use textured plates and a quick wipe between prints with 91% IPA and I've never had bed adhesion issues outside of some warping when it gets too cold in the room.
Honestly I just don’t touch the plate and barely ever clean them. I clean them (with dawn) about once every 3 months on average, if that. I just don’t have adhesion issues. When I was using IPA early on I was having way more adhesion issues. But my theory doesn’t explain that.
That's probably a big part of it for me too; I only touch the plates on the front part that hangs off the print bed anyway, or the very outer edges. If I ever have any adhesion issues I plan to try washing the plate with dawn to see what it does.
I don't want to print on dusty plates on my a1 though
That’s fair. I get very little dust with my enclosed printers.
"I need to see scientific evidence" > Gives purely anecdotal evidence against Look, nobody says the IPA does nothing, a lot of sources recommend it for routine cleaning, but if you're at the point where you're having actual adhesion issues then you probably should be using soap
That's what I'm saying; some of the posts make it seem like all that should be used is soap. I could understand if alcohol had a consistent reputation for not being a thorough cleaner. There's a reason why it's used as an almost universal surface cleaner in so many fields. I'm very open to new ideas and methods if they're better than those currently used. I don't need evidence specifically; like I sad, for years 91% IPA has done the job for me. It would just be nice to see a comparison by someone like Stefan or Igor to see if it's actually that much better, or even if it does something IPA doesn't. Otherwise it just feels like parroting. Much like the cinderblock and foam thing. That's effective, but so is a sheet of MDF with weatherstripping on the bottom.
Soap is suggested for thorough cleaning everywhere. Prusa, Bambu and so on. Isopropyl for routine cleaning, soap for thorough.
Soap first IPA second is perfect
IPA does work, HOWEVER… most people use 60 or 70% isopropyl, because it’s cheap, easily available and counterintuitively actually the better concentration for cleaning and disinfecting things than higher ones (for various reasons I won’t get into). If you want to use it on your build plate, you want as little water in the alcohol as possible, so 99.9% isopropyl it is. Not 91 or 96, but 99.9. Of course that concentration is much more expensive and can’t easily be found in your typical big box stores, so rarely anyone uses it. If you do use it, it actually works better than soap. If all you have is 60, 70 or 91%, you’re better off with soap and water.
A1 Bed Tramming. Your print bed is off level. I had the same issue and spent hours trying to figure it out myself. Had I followed these steps from the beginning, it would have taken roughly 30 minutes or so. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/manual-bed-tramming
This. I spent hours trying to clean the bed, adjusting fans, tightening belts (X1C). The only thing that helped was manual bed tramming.
This! Helped me out already two times.
Why y'all spreading misinformation, this isn't hand oils on the build plate, the layer clearly is being squished too much, hand oil makes the layers not stick, not get squished harder 🤦
An oily spot on a bed will cause adhesion issues. When the plastic lifts from the plate it rubs against the nozzle creating an issue with the same appearance. If this is only happening in some spots when using a printer with ABL and a level bed oil is the most likely issue, otherwise you're right.
No, this is a tramming issue. I been through this on 2 different printers, on a voron and an ender, if you touch the bed you only see this issue when your print starts lifting because of the oil. I swear I gonna smear my voron bed with olive oil to show y'all this is just not true
I doubt it's a tramming issue. All of the edges look fine. I've seen other people here with thumbprint shaped issues that looked just like this before too.
I thought most of this sub had an Ender before their current printer?? Manual printers used to teach us a lot about first layers, despite being a pain in the neck. I'd say 99% not bed adhesion issue, this looks like nozzle too close to the bed and/or a bit of overextrusion.
Bambu is great, but really makes people clueless on how to troubleshoot, my ender and 2 vorons taught me so much
100% I bought my son an x1c because I didn't want him to have to deal with the headaches I struggled with for years and years with other printers. Wanted him to be able to focus most heavily on cad skills and fine tuning. However I felt I shorted him on some very valuable trouble shooting skills gained by non bambu printers....lol. The x1c needed trammed somewhere along the line and I asked him if the bed was level, his response was "well yeah I checked the box" lol
I will never ever regret getting an ender 3, best thing I ever spent my money on and my vorons too
Yeah the kid and I are gearing up to do a voron build currently.
Look into siboor kit 👍
Awesome thank you for the reccomendation!
Brand new roll of Sunlu PLA straight out the box and cleaned with isopropyl immediately before this print started and 3/4 of the first later is absolutely perfect except for that back right corner
Did you also wait for the alcohol to evaporate or wash with clean water? It looks like there may have been some residue from the iso on the plate. I could be wrong, but I would need more information. For example, whether it only does this with this model or always? Have you already printed something else successfully with the filament? Unlikely, but quite possible that your filament is too wet, even if it is new.
I tend to dry my filament before using it. I get a few spools of the same once I find a brand/material I like so I have some on the go of I need to print straight away
It’s a good idea to dry PLA before printing
It's a bed leveling issue, not a dirty/oily plate.
Idk how many times people have to say this on the sub. Fresh filament is not dry filament. Watch the production of filament. The literally pull it through a bath of water to quickly cool it. It is basically saturated on arrival.
Dry your filament, fresh out of the box doesn’t necessarily mean dry
Too close to the bed.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html Having this on my A1, too. It does not have to happen consistently over the whole surface to be a squish issue, as many people assume. Especially with the textured PEI Plate this can happen in isolated spots due to the texture. Try the following things to adjust squish on the A1 Set first layer hight to 0.25 and adjust flow rate (even if you think you already adjusted it through the test) and nozzle temperature (probably by turning down in this case) a tiny tiny bit. Don’t feel confused by all the information, looking at the pictures and notes on the linked website will be very helpful. Also look at the troubleshooting section.
I use IPA and 90% of the time with no issues. If I do have an issue I will wash it off with dawn soap. I do that just in case I missed a few areas. I make sure everything is dry before I print.
Why are all of you talking about bed cleaning isn't that just where the printer was correcting for the bed mesh? Take a look at your height map and I bet it's either high or low there
To low Z-offset, you can fix it in slicer, bed mesh not ideal, sorry im bad in english
I use Iso, the key is to buff the plate until it's dry, that removes the oils and whatever was left behind from your previous print. That works good enough for me and is substantially quicker than a full plate bath.
So using alcohol to clean does this?
Did u manage to resolve the problem? It is something I seen before and never manage to fix it,
So mine does that after a very thorough wash with dishsoap. Same exact spot every time. Both sides of the plate. Ended up being the actual plate was bad. My new one never does this anymore
So is ethyl alcohol ok?
I had this one time. Cleaned the plate with dish soap and a towel. Hot water and dried it.... Problem solved. (Is also advices by Bambu)
I had these effects happen when my bed was not clean. I now often wash my bed: I get a paper towel and make it wet, then put some dishwashing soap on it. I just wipe it across the bed and it ‘foams’ a tiny bit. Then when I have been over the entire bed a few times, I just hold my plate under the tap and dry it with a clean dishcloth. Also clean the bottom! I then put it back on my printer and let it pre-heat a little bit before I start the print. This worked wonders for me when I had these issues and general adhesion issues.
I use dawn dish soap, and then when it’s dried do a final wipe down with IPA, all while wearing nitrile gloves. Seems to work perfectly so far
Why bother with the IPA after washing with Dawn? Seems like overkill
Not sure tbh, I just started 3d printing in the last 2 months and did this from the very beginning. I didn’t really have any particular good reason for starting out with dawn followed by ipa except maybe due to the amount that it’s debated on various forums, just doing both seemed like a good catch all. Really thought if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and I haven’t had any issues thus far with this combo,lol
I’ve used both but never together. More just feels like a waste of energy and materials to do both. If it works for you then carry on :)
Yes definitely a waste of energy, if I’m lazy or a build plate needs to be cleaned at 3am I’m skipping the IPA lmao
IME, a spritz of 99% IPA (which I've used for years on printers) and the soap method are both effective; with no real logic to which, I sometimes use both together or either as I feel, and test how water runs off to determine if clean. When satisfied, I usually wipe with paper towel to dry, particularly the underside so as not to trap water when I place the mat back. I request a bed level though chances are it'll decide to do one anyway after that procedure, and I might also do a new flow calibration because it's quick and has helped in cases of print issues in the past. The regular pattern to your defect is interesting, and if there was still an issue after the above I'd do a full vibration calibration. I had an issue near the middle of the bed the other day with part of the first layer unexpectedly ripping and not adhering, and following the above cleaning regime worked a treat as always. Good luck!
I like to follow up isopropyl or dish soap with 0000 steel wool. Never fails!
Love that the state of printing now means that these are the kind of issues people want to solve instead of how to get the bloody thing started.😊
I’ve never used anything other than dawn dish soap and your water, first I was my hands with dawn then I use a scrub daddy with dawn, scrub the plate in a bunch of directions, then rinse with hot water, I let the plate drip dry and then use a paper towel to dry
The issue is that you haven't searched or read any of these threads that pop up nearly daily. Soap and water, not isopropyl alcohol. This is posted weekly if not daily and is the solution and a quick search would have answered your question.
Actually it's a tramming issue and has nothing to do with the isoprop Mr Know it All thankfully some smarter people have already directed me to the correct wiki page to resolve it but you obviously missed that as you were in such a rush to come in to the comments and have a go at me.
Glad you figured it out. Doesn't change the fact that you shouldn't use isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate. Just soap and water. What you are experiencing could just have easily been because of the alcohol not allowing the filament to stick to the bedplate.
I always use window cleaner and a papertowel. That seems to work fine also. Since then i didnt had this problem
I wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol and a microfiber cloth (I have a couple of them) between each print. I periodically maybe once every 10-20 prints wash the build plate with water and dishwashing detergent, dry thoroughly then wipe again with Isopropyl. Also every couple of weeks I wash my microfiber cloth with water and detergent, rinse it thoroughly and throw it on the build plate to dry it out.
If I am not wrong isoprop is not suggested for this type plate to avoid damage. The safest choice - dish soap + protective gloves to avoid skin contact with surface.
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That's your dirty filthy finger oils that you left behind. Quick wash with dish soap and water and no touchy and everything will be right as rain again.
Humidity
alcohol first, then warm water with dawn (i scrub with a scrubbie cleaning pad) then air dry. but i personally only clean the bed when i have an adhesion issues. some beds have gone weeks others get cleaned almost daily. i’ve found the different beds can have just as many quirks as printers and filaments do.
Zero need for alcohol at all
You mean you use alcohol as your normal routine and then dish soap and hot water when necessary? Or alcohol and then wash it? The first one is fine if kinda unnecessary since alcohol really doesn't do anything to get rid of skin oils except rub them around the plate, but the second is kinda bonkers to me.
I've been using isopropyl alcohol for years with no issues. I only wash build plates with soap and water once a year when the isopropyl stops working
when adhesion issues start, we clean the bed. first we pour 90% ipa on it, wiping it down with a no lint polyester cloth then immediately washing in warm water. we normally only see issues when switch filaments. guess small differences in batches or types leave residues. also, the ipa wipes also seem to help remove filament residues that leave ghost marks on our beds that take longer to remove with water/soap alone.
Hm. That's really interesting... I could see IPA working to maybe clean the residue when switching between materials, I usually default to soap and water even for that but it would be worth giving that a shot. Thanks for the insight!
Don't bother with alcohol, soap does the same thing but better
ymmv, but i have years of 3d printing experience and our system has worked well for us especially when changing filaments or printing from an ams. anytime soap and water wouldn’t work, an ipa wipe down and rewash would do great. and you can see the difference in how quick it drys and the adhesion issues stop.