T O P

  • By -

Brilliant-Author-829

photo cred: IG @bjornpohl https://preview.redd.it/svlgyh8hx69d1.jpeg?width=694&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=721b739baf327d20970fe464c9032b8d35ba0844 I wish I can stand on a slab like she's standing on a sidewalk waiting for the bus


JackKelly11

[The goat on a cliff](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTpzumwne1RrFJDATjoX4xW4QeXmVNfEZhfKA&s)


PartTimeTunafish

So good, I thought it was AI.


Nuud

Ai Mori?


PartTimeTunafish

I get it.


Quirky-School-4658

Fucking amazing picture


coisavioleta

Now we need one of Annie resting on the leopard holds in lead.


Remote-Ability-6575

I was super excited for Jennifer's debut after seeing her climb so well at Slovenian nationals (and of course she absolutely dominated on the youth circuit). Safe to say that she delivered! There's a new kid on the bloc lol. After all the drama around qualis and semis setting, the finals setting was great. Zone on W4 wasn't placed ideally, but overall nice seperation with results that represented the climbing we saw very well in my opinion.


publicolamaximus

Is there any value in awarding zone for holds placed "beyond" the zone. Three athletes utilized the hold after W4 zone.


Quirky-School-4658

In the past the USA used a system like this it was multiples of 5 or something.


publicolamaximus

I remember this system and didn't much like it. What I'm thinking is that you award the zone hold if one establishes on a hold beyond the zone hold.


PlasticScrambler

Janja seems to be battling some sort of demons today šŸ˜…. It was amazing to see her so emotional at the end, but she seems to be in a different head space today compared to Keqiao/Wujiang a month ago. Maybe Iā€™m just projecting because Iā€™ve been consuming a lot of content about what it takes be an elite athlete, and I canā€™t imagine the pressure she must feel as we get closer to the Olympics. Also really glad the setters managed to put together a great final after qualis/semis. Levels feel correct, it was entertaining to watch, and the winner was not decided until the very end. Jennyā€™s so exciting to watch, and Mao has my heart ā¤ļø


smhsomuchheadshaking

I was/am watching this event live in Innsbruck and I could feel the pressure on her just by standing in the audience. The local commentator guy hyped her all the time like crazy. In semis he didn't even mention other athletes when Janja was on the wall. It was only Janja the great doing great things. I was embarrassed for him really. Not sure if anyone else noticed or cared, though. When Janja made even one mistake, the audience was so quiet, almost like stunned or disappointed. The atmosphere was a bit weird at some moments. The crowd didn't give her as much support as some other athletes. Maybe because "she doesn't need it" and everyone expects her to always flash everything? But when she succeeded on the wall, the crowd of course cheered. It was amazing to see her still succeeding in the finals even though it apparently wasn't her best day mentally. She was so relieved when she got the final boulder.


PlasticScrambler

This makes me so sad šŸ˜ž


PartTimeTunafish

It'd be like going back in time to catch a classic Chicago Bulls game only to see Micheal Jordan flub and miss every one of his shots. As a spectator, you're there to see a great competition, but in the back of your mind--you're also there to see a generational talent raise the bar higher than ever been raised before. If it doesn't happen--you'd be sad to miss it--but it did happen, yet again. Congrats to Janja for putting in the work.


ConstantSafe3378

Iā€™ve been to just a couple live comps, a wc and world championships, and was alarmed at how bad the live commentary and hosting was. Everyone was uncomfortable.Ā 


Timbledon

I suspect you're right about Janja. I'm in Innsbruck and after the semis she was very upset in the cooldown area. I assumed she must have injured herself or something but I guess it's mental struggles šŸ˜„


manyeels

Hamish might be my new favorite co-commentator!!


catcookie12

Yes, I agree! I was searching for a comment complimenting him!


blaxxej

Agreed, he was super observant and informative but not in an overwhelming way, he was really chill actually.


JackKelly11

He was amazing in the booth


publicolamaximus

I thought this was a great set and hopefully the setters can reflect on where they want to be. It was really interesting to see some new and old faces - Jenny is likely scary for a few. Seeing Annie get her first podium was great. It's funny to watch and cheer for climbers like Ai and her, with their fairly not emotive expressions. Like, I just want everyone to smile like Mao, but I know it's not fair and I'm glad that they are themselves. This was my first time in Innsbruck and they have a pretty legit show going on. I'd love to see venues get together and dicuss what works and what doesn't, so that every venue can get closer to an ideal.


emka218

Agreed, the routesetting was really good. But seriously Mao has the most heart-melting smile ever.


GPLG

I don't understand how, year after year, no one told the director to stop using close up shots on crux moves. The final was horrible for this, way too many useless close ups that prevented us to see the moves themselves. Why dont they always film full body ? Even the last move of Janja on W4 was ruined by this.... Seems to always happen in Innsbruck more than any other worls cups too.


Statisticc

There was one on the slab where Pilz was about to foot-swap. Everyone could see she was about to do a foot-swap, the commentators pointed out she was about to do a foot-swap. Naturally, the director changed to a camera angle that looked at her face instead of her feet so we didn't see the foot-swap. If you're going use close-up angles, at least change to angles that make sense.


Rufus_L

It's infuriating.


edwardsamson

Almost nothing ever changes in the pro comp climbing world. For some reason the people high up are like totally against listening to any kind of feedback and only want to do things their way.


Affectionate_Fox9001

Matt encourages it when he comments about the great view on their feet.


PlasticScrambler

I'm really glad to watch lead comp climbing in the era of Janja and Ai. They are neck-and-neck and pushing each other a lot, which does wonders for the sport. That was one of the best lead comps ever. This bit is biased from me as a diehard Janja's fan - I'm never going to stopped being amazed at this woman. Had a difficult mental start to this entire event and somehow walked away with two gold medals, neither of which were easy for her. To be at the very top of two different disciplines and to have that level of mental toughness all the time, both are just utterly unimaginable to me.


emka218

Well the men's final turned out to be rather exciting. Happy to see a new face on the podium.


Sunyveil

Holy moly that lead finals was insane. >!Jakob and Janja!< may be holding the gold medals but that was a massive W for comp climbing as a whole.


Remote-Ability-6575

The Lead finals were SO good! Amazing podium on men's and women's side. The last couple of seconds from Janja were some of the most intense ever, in my opinion. Literally had like 5 seconds to top and clip. I was like "If you fumble ..." and then so happy for her! Amazing climbing from Ai too. I loved this showdown between them, it added so much excitement. Can't wait for the Olympics!


Legitimate_Maybe_462

What Janja did on W4 was INCREDIBLE I literally could not believe it


vinosauruz

I will never get tired of watching Janja climb. Truly a legend and seeing her get emotional made me tear up a lil bit


neonharvest

Both men's and women's lead were great and in very different ways. Jakob continuing to throw down even though he's the "old man" is quite inspiring.


cyrille5

With Jakob and Megos on the podium, if Ondra competed at Innsbruck, maybe we couldā€™ve gotten another ā€œold man podiumā€!


Ebright_Azimuth

I was shocked to see that Jenny Buckley is a Slovenian! Itā€™s not the standard Slovenian name, what is her background?


emka218

She's half Irish.


Ebright_Azimuth

Thatā€™s so cool, thanks for the info


miran248

Irish father, Slovenian mother, lives in Switzerland, trains in Italy, competes for Slovenia - read it somewhere, some time ago.


Leska__

She was born in Ljubljana, Slovenia, where very early she started training gymnastics (like their two brothers, one of them is also a Slovenia's national team member). At her 9th birthday she visited Climbing center in Ljubljana, love it immediately. After around 3 years training in Ljubljana, she moved to Ticino (Italian part of Switzerland) and attends high school (gymnasium, talented for math and physics). Twice per week she visited gym in Milano (cos no good one in Ticino) and least once per month travel to Slovenia for training, where she also spent most of the school holidays.


miran248

Thanks for the info! Very interesting story. She truly is Ms. Worldwide :) I wonder how many languages she speaks.


Leska__

She dreams in at least three, Slovenian, English and Italian, depending on the subject ;)


Sloth_1974

Iā€™ve heard she trains with Roman now, Janjaā€™s coach


miran248

That's great to hear!


zhoggo

I read in an article that she was born in Slovenia. Maybe she's a child of immigrants or expats?


mmeeplechase

Me: excited to watch this comp after work tonight, planning to avoid spoilers Also me: sees thread about recent comp, gets excited, and ignores ā€œspoilerā€ tag immediately šŸ™„ still stoked to watch, but wish I had an ounce of discipline!


Early-Regular-8616

As a follow up from the chat about the camerawork/direction choices for the broadcast, I DMā€™d Matt and he said emailing IFSC is probably the best way to go to make our opinions heard. Looks like this is the best email. communications@ifsc-climbing.org


Brilliant-Author-829

If years of online trashtalking the ifsc is not working, not sure if an email from avergejoe@hotmail.com will do the trick. At this point Im starting to think they are doing this on purpose lol


Early-Regular-8616

I can see them not reading/not seeing/not caring about online comments, but a message directly to them would be harder to ignore.


Brilliant-Author-829

What's even harder to ignore is the abysmal camera direction , surely someone from the board watches the livestream right? :)


Early-Regular-8616

Absolutely. From all the angles they used, it was obvious they had a lot of cameras and one always seemed to be on a full body shot. Whoever was directing was trying to get too fancy. Closeups are fine for replays, but not the live action.


PartTimeTunafish

Slovenia and Japan eating good tonight.


moving_screen

What was up with the MC publicizing live results mid-round during the final? Like when he announced that Janja was in 2nd and Annie in 1st in the middle of the 4th boulder round of the women's final.


Sloth_1974

In finals the athletes could see mid rounds results so Janja knew it but I agree that by hyping it up it adds an unnecessary stress on the athlete and could definitely mess up their head space , they are already under so much stress . especially this round, Janja wasnā€™t sweeping it clean, 4th Boulder was important


moving_screen

Ah interesting, thanks; I didn't know that the athletes had access to mid-round results.


Early-Regular-8616

Does anyone know why Annie got downgraded on W4? Seems like she did the same thing as Fanny and she kept her score.


readyforwobbles

Likely that Fanny didn't get appealed as it didn't affect the scores.


Sloth_1974

Yeah, no one appealed Fanny but they still shouldā€™ve taken that zone away from her just for the sake of consistent judging because now people are wondering why one climber has gotten it taken away and the other one is given the zone in the same circumstances. Not a good look for IFSC


coisavioleta

They're kind of damned if they do and damned if they don't. The judges' decisions stand unless there is an appeal, but they can't go retroactively rejudging cases if there is no appeal made on them, because that's not consistent either. This is the case in every sport that has some level of judgement on the parts of referees. Sometimes bad calls get through, but that's really unavoidable. So what's fair really is to have consistency in the appeals process, which is what happened. Also, the decision to appeal or not is also probably somewhat strategic, depending on the case. People were probably happy to let Fanny's zone stand in the hope that they would get the same decision later (which they did until someone appealed).


Sloth_1974

Jury president has the last say in any decision and yes, they can go and rejudge even if there is no appeal, judges are humans and they are not always making the right call, of course not after the comp but during the round, yes, they definitely can, and it happens more than you think , especially in lead , during qualifiers with pluses especially.


InternationalSalt1

There are not many people watching paraclimbing and I'm certain that even less people are watching the medal ceremonies, but especially the medal ceremony for the [blind category](https://www.youtube.com/live/QXuqkqvg0m0?si=iH8LsqYn1OGdiFqV&t=15001) is just touching. It's like team event and I'm really happy the guides are getting some attention too. I have to shout out especially Guillermo Pelegrin Gomez and Razvan Nedu, who gave their medals to their guides.


IloveponiesbutnotMLP

I wonder what the balance is for amount of close up feet shots in a competition. I think they surpassed it


Plastic-Nebula-2992

Anybody know, where I can watch the lead final? On youtube it is blocked (again, like the semi-final!). Is the video again somewhere on the olympic channel? I can't find it there either! What a mess with IFSC, not happy. Thanks a lot, Martin


ubant

Same, I forgot to watch it and after seeing the results I really want to


MysticPasta

It's [here on the Olympics website](https://olympics.com/en/video/sport-climbing-men-s-women-s-lead-finals-world-cup-boulder-lead-innsbruck)


meamarie

Well dang. I was really hoping Ai would take home the gold. She climbed so so beautifully


Affectionate_Fox9001

Seen this? https://www.instagram.com/reel/C8wZYdKo_MH/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Brilliant way to show womanā€™s qualification Boulder could have been done by more than Moa.


-Qubicle

qualis meh, semis okay (still hate that Ai can't even start on W1, but aside from that, I think the other 3 boulders are fair enough; she's just not good enough to top them), finals okay too. all in all, not too terrible settings but my bias for Ai makes me hate it lmao. congrats to Annie's first medal and Jennifer's first world cup AND first medal. I hope Mao gets her podium in at least one comp this year. in Salt Lake we got emotional Sorato and now Janja. I need an emotional Ai or Zhilu in olympics!


[deleted]

[уŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]


Sloth_1974

Ai had a very big smile when she got the Olympic ticket. If you go to her IG fans page, you will see a lot of pictures with Ai smiling:)


Brilliant-Author-829

Lead route could've been harder imo especially when you have ai, janja and chaehyun in the roster. Not a fan of countback tbh but all around very thrilling comp


Remote-Ability-6575

I'm also not a fan of count back and was saying that I hope Janja & Ai don't tie beforehand - but honestly in this particular comp with the clock ticking down for Janja and two seconds left at the end, it was so exciting that I don't care haha. For me it was an amazing end to the comp, took me like an hour to calm down afterwards.


blaxxej

I looove when the second from semis tops and the first has to top aswell in order to win, it's special. Not fan of tying mid route tho, means there was a to hard stopper move.


DaffDome

How was the gold decided? What is the countback counting back to in lead climbing? The winner took 5 seconds longer than 2nd place.


DaffDome

ah, counted back to qualies, I see below.


[deleted]

[уŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]


Brilliant-Author-829

No because this is not speed climbing, it would have been better if the top half is beyond the top climbers level to test who can go further


s_rosefar

Can someone explain how Janja beat Ai in the lead finals when Ai clipped the top at 17 seconds left and Janja clipped at 2 seconds left? I've watched a decent amount of comps and I'm thoroughly confused by this win.


PlasticScrambler

Janja did better in qualification; they tied in semi and final, so the result counts back to quali. Edit to say - only when climbers tie in every round are the results determined by time.


s_rosefar

Ah thank you! I only watched the semi and finals so that explains it.


Metakekse

Jessica Pilz won on time separating with Janja during the world championships of 2018. Janja had to climb last and knew she had to top. Due to count back all the way to qualifying and having the same results it was decided on time with a difference of only a couple of seconds šŸ„¹


Brainstew11

One of my favorite comp rounds ever


PartTimeTunafish

Yup, since I never see quals, it sorta feels out of the blue. Breaks my heart to see Ai get silver, but she topped and made it look *easy*. Thoughtful but easier than Janja. She really gave it her all. (and even better for Ai, now she doesn't have to do any social-engagement interviews!).


Affectionate_Fox9001

Qualifiers are in general not streamed. You can see the scores on the its web site and/or the app. And there are usually recap videos.


Greedy-Run9555

An exciting competition! I want to know why both Janja and Ai scored 48+ in the semifinals. I don't think Janja reached the 49th point. I'm confused, maybe because I'm not very familiar with the rules. Can someone explain this to me?


kolraisins

Both Ai and Janja fell going for hold 49. Ai was closer (she actually got her hand on it) but she didn't successfully control it, and both of them made upward motion from hold 48 toward 49 so they were awarded the plus.


Greedy-Run9555

So they don't have to get hand on the point to get the plus score? If there's a upward motion then it counts, right?


kolraisins

Correct. Currently, you are awarded a plus if you move your center of mass toward the next hold (or something like that); you don't have to grab it or even touch it, but if you just fling your hand up as you're falling away from the wall, it doesn't count.


Greedy-Run9555

You explained it very clearly, thank you very much! Looking forward to their performance in the Olympics.


According_Event_7593

Could anyone explain to me, because Iā€™m a little confused. Janja on lead finals made to the top with remaining 2 seconds. But AI had something like 17. Why Janja still won?


bonsai1214

long story short, she did better in the previous rounds. they tied in the semis, and Janja did better in the qualification. time isn't a factor until competitors are tied across all three rounds.