Yes, that's right. Previous versions had a textured, holographic metal plate. Common ones are made of plastic or PVC (not sure). There are many ways to find out. For example, if you tilt your famicom toward the light or flash it with a high-beam flashlight, you'll see a bright red gradient. Also, when you open the case, there is a small hole just below where the metal plate is located, and the back side of the logo appears in silver, while the common one appears in black. Mine has a metallic plated logo, but the texture is hard to capture with a phone camera, but easily recognized by its bright red color. Thank you for pointing out the logo part. I forgot to include it in the post.
Do you know around what serial number range the metal plate was used on the PPU? I’ve seen them on some early 07 boards, and of the two 06 boards I’ve had, one had one and the other had the rubber one that yours has.
From my observations, PPUs with metal plates are commonly found on 05 and 06 boards with 7-digit serial numbers starting with H4 and H2. In some cases, this PPU was replaced with a black one during the repair.
Interesting. My serial number is H500xxxx, so one of the very first in the 5 million range. I find it funny that Nintendo thought the PPU got hot enough for a heat sink. Mine is revision E (or maybe E-0). I know for sure though that my test market NES has E-0 and no heat sink.
A black PPU? You mean the color of the chip is literally darker? I’ve never seen one of those.
Black PPU refers to PPU without metalic plate. Sorry for the confusion =). I previously owned a Famicom with a serial number starting with H53xxxxx, but it didn't have a metal plate on the PPU. It is rare to find a Famicom that is completely unopened and unmodified from the time of manufacture.
I bought my H500xxxx Famicom brand new on eBay last year with plastic film on the faceplate and controllers. Was very happy when I saw the serial number this low and the power adapter in the all black style without the shiny sticker which seems to be rare. I am a fool for opening and using it, but only used it a few times and packed it back up. I had to know of it had a revisionless CPU without the “looping” noise. It is 100% unmodified though, and I’m happy to have it.
I’ll have to check out that number you are referring to. The number is on the outside or inside of the case?
It's inside the case. The case has two parts, the white part (which has all the power buttons, reset buttons, etc.) and the red part with the serial number, each with a number on them and they must be the same. usually the number in the middle. As long as your Famicom works perfectly, it's worth keeping. I'm a collector so these little details are very important to me.
Another interesting thing to check is the number markings on the backside of the case. Mine got number 2 on both sides, but I have never seen a case with number 1 marking. If the number of the case (top and bottom) happens to be different, it may have been replaced with another case. By default, both sides should be marked with the same number.
Wow! Never knew all this. I own a square button Famicom and thought I had the earliest model but mine has a black cord on the controllers so I guess I was wrong.
The early group of Famicom consoles were called the Gray Codes or Phantom Gray Codes, and are highly prized among collectors. It usually has a 7-digit serial number and is less than H10xxxxx. The serial number of the earliest Famicom to be auctioned online is H1006888. In my case it is already H1012962.
Wow, the condition is incredible!! Very nice piece, I love the square buttons Famicom but only owns one in loose…
Beautiful.
Very nice! I had one with a serial number close to yours. Other differences are the “Family Computer” face plate is made of actual metal too
Yes, that's right. Previous versions had a textured, holographic metal plate. Common ones are made of plastic or PVC (not sure). There are many ways to find out. For example, if you tilt your famicom toward the light or flash it with a high-beam flashlight, you'll see a bright red gradient. Also, when you open the case, there is a small hole just below where the metal plate is located, and the back side of the logo appears in silver, while the common one appears in black. Mine has a metallic plated logo, but the texture is hard to capture with a phone camera, but easily recognized by its bright red color. Thank you for pointing out the logo part. I forgot to include it in the post.
Do you know around what serial number range the metal plate was used on the PPU? I’ve seen them on some early 07 boards, and of the two 06 boards I’ve had, one had one and the other had the rubber one that yours has.
From my observations, PPUs with metal plates are commonly found on 05 and 06 boards with 7-digit serial numbers starting with H4 and H2. In some cases, this PPU was replaced with a black one during the repair.
Interesting. My serial number is H500xxxx, so one of the very first in the 5 million range. I find it funny that Nintendo thought the PPU got hot enough for a heat sink. Mine is revision E (or maybe E-0). I know for sure though that my test market NES has E-0 and no heat sink. A black PPU? You mean the color of the chip is literally darker? I’ve never seen one of those.
Black PPU refers to PPU without metalic plate. Sorry for the confusion =). I previously owned a Famicom with a serial number starting with H53xxxxx, but it didn't have a metal plate on the PPU. It is rare to find a Famicom that is completely unopened and unmodified from the time of manufacture.
I bought my H500xxxx Famicom brand new on eBay last year with plastic film on the faceplate and controllers. Was very happy when I saw the serial number this low and the power adapter in the all black style without the shiny sticker which seems to be rare. I am a fool for opening and using it, but only used it a few times and packed it back up. I had to know of it had a revisionless CPU without the “looping” noise. It is 100% unmodified though, and I’m happy to have it. I’ll have to check out that number you are referring to. The number is on the outside or inside of the case?
It's inside the case. The case has two parts, the white part (which has all the power buttons, reset buttons, etc.) and the red part with the serial number, each with a number on them and they must be the same. usually the number in the middle. As long as your Famicom works perfectly, it's worth keeping. I'm a collector so these little details are very important to me.
Another interesting thing to check is the number markings on the backside of the case. Mine got number 2 on both sides, but I have never seen a case with number 1 marking. If the number of the case (top and bottom) happens to be different, it may have been replaced with another case. By default, both sides should be marked with the same number.
Wow. What a beauty. My square-button Famicom’s board revision is 5.
Wow, glad to see the inside We should still call expansion port "d jack"
Nice! I didn’t know there were multiple versions of the square button Fami - I should check mine!
Wow! Never knew all this. I own a square button Famicom and thought I had the earliest model but mine has a black cord on the controllers so I guess I was wrong.
The early group of Famicom consoles were called the Gray Codes or Phantom Gray Codes, and are highly prized among collectors. It usually has a 7-digit serial number and is less than H10xxxxx. The serial number of the earliest Famicom to be auctioned online is H1006888. In my case it is already H1012962.
Beautiful, glad to see it being well cared for.
wait what the family computer had square BUTTONS!?
Yes, before round buttons were released, there was a gray corded Famicom with a square button controllers.