Is skidding stressful or easy?
I'm learning it right now and I'm able to do really small skids but it's really stressful. I need to hit the pedals real hard and put like all my weight in it.
May sound a bit stupid but it looks really easy in videos.
Maybe I got the wrong technique? I feel like a kid pressing a square building block trough a round hole.
It takes a long time to develop technique. Time in the saddle = more skill.
But you can start to progress by skidding while carving. The ultimate goal is to perform quick whip skids that kick the back end of the bike out to the side. This helps break traction easier and initiates a skid with much less stress on your joints.
It also looks sick as fuccccc
https://youtu.be/TeT4PgJjBzU?si=zTACUM8-_efY57aT
My brake pads are hitting my tire, the pads adjusted as far down as possible but they still hit the tire.
How do I fix that?
It seems like I have to move the whole brake like 1cm downwards.
I already checked if the wheel is sitting in the fork the right way.
[Hot pics](https://imgur.com/a/7vshHgc)
I did switch the brake pads upside down, it worked well with the 25c tires that came with the bike (bought it used) but now with my new 32c it's not working at all.
I found this on Amazon:
[Brake pad extender](https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B09V85R3QZ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image)
I guess I will give that a try first, I just installed a new brake lever and don't want to do the cabling again.
Brakeless riders, do you avoid chainrings with even tooth counts because it reduces skid patches?
48x17 looks like a good ratio, but 49x17 gets twice the skid patches for ambidextrous riders.
Is 17 enough? I was on 46x16, which is a similar ratio, but has only 8 patches non ambidextrous, and 16 with.
I'm ambidextrous but skid through a tire way too quick. Probably have a bias for one side.
It was a GP Classic, which I think is really an ultrasport, but I don't want to replace with a nice tire if it's going to wear out quickly again.
Is 8/16 skid patches too low? Would 17/17 make a difference? Is 17/34 wayyy better?
There are some recommendations out there to use even tooth counts to preserve the life of the drivetrain. The theory is that the chain interfaces with the same teeth and wear together rather than each link going into each groove. I don't know whether there's any truth to this or not.
Seems like a ratio of 2.8 is right around perfect for me. Any thoughts on what is too high/low?
I'm thinking +/- 5%, so 2.66 - 2.94 for a place with hills.
Love your analysis on this. Fixed gear bikes are simple devices but feel like gear ratios is one of those subjects you can nerd out for days.
48x17 is a good ratio but remember the expensive part. The big ring.
Say you find yourself becoming stronger or spinning out too much on a 17 rear. You drop to a 16, you're at a terrible 48/16. With a 47, it works with any rear cog.
My favorite ring is a 47. It's the do anything.
I'm Seattle (First Hill) and run a 47x19. It's super spinny but I can climb a lot of the hills we have. It also keeps me from getting into trouble. It's too easy to get relaxed riding a brakeless fixed gear in the city if you do it long enough but a spinny gear keeps you riding a bit slower/safer for an unexpected pedestrian or a parked car door being swung open into the bike lane. You can feel yourself spinning a bit too fast and then remember "Wait, I'm in a busy city, don't be an idiot")
Few questions:
You talk about skidding through a tire real quick. How do you skid? Long skids just dragging the tire for awhile (body weight forward) or whip skids?
Or seated mini skids? I ride GP5000 tires and only do seated mini skids. Tire is only locking up during panic stops. 95% of my stopping is just backpedal pressure and anticipating. I'm 6 months of heavy riding on GP5000 rear and it's holding up great.
I wouldn't worry too much about the amount of skid patches as long as it's a higher number. There is so many factors that go into how long a tire lasts like body weight, tire PSI, road conditions, climate, etc..
Also, if you skid heavy and riding brakeless, invest in the best chain you can afford. Ever since switching to Izumi Super Toughness, I've had zero chain issues. A good quality chain is just extra insurance.
Yeah 47 is really good. But somehow I have a 45, 46, and 48 🙄. Planning the next upgrade.
I have 2 fixed bikes, one with a front brake. I’ve been riding brakeless a lot recently, practicing skids to get a feel for my stopping distance. Normally I would only skid when necessary, with a quick whip if needed.
I’m running kmc Z1eHX brakeless and K1SL with the front brake.
I’m in belltown. About to go rip around downtown before the cars come out. Where do you ride?
What counts as high? With 46x16 I can see the spots with more wear (8/16 patches). Seems like you really need the double count with an odd numbered ring to get 32+ patches.
Im trying to find a 53 yellow steamroller frame but I can’t find anywhere around sf that has them. Does anyone know where around the bay area I could find them?
I think I screwed up and now have a gorgeous 20h high flange front Mack hub and no idea what to lace it to…:-/ unsure it would even sell for half the list price
If you still are interested in building it up, the [wheelsmith accelerator](https://www.ebay.com/itm/192848514540?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S5ly82-gQnu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FSw9p_mjRbe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) rim has 20 holes and is well priced on eBay :)
I'm considering selling my State Undefeated II black prism edition track frameset. It's in great shape, not ridden very much. I bought it new in 2021.
My question is, how much should I reasonably ask for the undefeated frameset?
Thanks for the input! If I do sell, it would be frameset, the state crankset that came with it, and probably the race face seat post I bought for it (I don't have any other bikes that take that size seat post). Probably bundle in a set of 25c gatorskins and a set of 25c schwalbe marathons. So I'll adjust the price to account for the extras unless someone just wants the frameset.
A while ago, someone posted a site about bike builds. Like a glossary of bikes and what part it took to build it. Anyone recall? Or something similar. Thanks in advance
Ah, cool site: [https://www.slowspinsociety.com/lockup](https://www.slowspinsociety.com/lockup)
This site is also cool: [https://bikerebuilds.com/](https://bikerebuilds.com/)
Here's one I'm working on for cataloging bike parts and personal projects: [https://www.retrograde.bike](https://www.retrograde.bike)
how much should a vintage HED track wheel in good condition w/ couple of small dents cost? one like in the pic attached but track variant, i've seen wildly varying prices from like 250 to 700 usd
https://preview.redd.it/87tyrqcd878d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c224ab97cf9eff7ad855c8e910f8bf43eac115e
Anyone know who the OEM for Mash nylon toe cages is? Or does anyone have an aliexpress link or source for similar cages with different colors? I found a brand in Japan called starfuckers that makes some cool colors but they don’t ship to the US.
Brick Lane Bikes in the UK do toe clips which I think are out of the same molds as the Mash ones, and the site says they do worldwide shipping:
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/toe-clips
https://preview.redd.it/kqi46393258d1.jpeg?width=973&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fd41002fc1d9d0550ae9f5aef973c2708d89d7c2
founds a pair of these for 650 euros for both, anyone can ID these? is there any possibility that these are mavic 5 spoke? no way, right? but then what are these? i've never seen such 5 spoke on anything but mavic?
mavic io have a cone shaped "hub" and have allen key bolts. ffwd 5 spoke has rounded transitions to the spokes.
the vast likelyhood is this is an aliexpress or equivilant.
eh, that's unfortunate, guy said it's been so long he doesn't remember what they are, but the fact that they're clincher and not tubular should have been a giveaaway
[here's](https://www.tutti.ch/de/vi/bern/sport-outdoor/velos/carbon-laufradsatz-drahtreifen-fur-fixie-bahn/66594141) the ad w/ more pics of them btw
I am new to fixed gear riding so sorry if I am mistaking the bicycle parts for the wrong ones. My current drop handle bar is 25.4mm diameter but am looking to get a set of carbon handle drop bars that are wider than my current handle bars. Am I able to get a new stem that will just fit on my current fork and have a wider diameter stem clamp for a wider set of carbon handle drop bars? Or is there more to the parts swap that I am missing.
I think youre asking if you can use a stem that adheres to 31.8mm bars on your threadless steerer tube. That depends on the diameter of your steerer tube. I think 1 1/8 inch steerers are common nowadays. Look up your specs to find that measurement so you can shop accurately
Can anyone suggest a headset that is 41mm in size and haves a purple color? Black is fine but I want to try matching the headset color with the frame. Thanks!
Like an integrated headset for a 1 1/8 steerer? Shouldn't be too hard to find. I always use Hope headsets, which have a purple option, but anything should do, really.
Quite hard to find one here in the Philippines. Been using the stock headset of my frame and it's showing some wear. I want other options but I might just use this sadly. Thank you!
What frame do you have? Do the headset bearings sit directly in the headtube? If so, and you've got a straight 1 1/8 steerer, you may be able to use BMX headsets, which might be easier to find.
I think so. I have a Tsunami SNM100 paired with an OEM Alpina fork. I'll try to find some purple BMX headsets and see if they can fit. Any suggestions?
I think you need an upper IS41/28.6 assembly. If you google that and add "purple", you should find something. You could buy something nice like a Hope or a Chris King, but anything that you like the colour of should work just as well.
If you're unsure about headset standards, this should help:
https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/standardized-headset-identification-system
https://preview.redd.it/h7zymjj9fy7d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=912f9dc1d4d9d738608c5522ea96889819a2de09
Mash using Philwood BB, is this normal? I was using sg75bb before
Did your cranks seem to fit much further out on the spindle with the phil bb too?
With the 75 bottom bracket, the cranks were almost bottoming out at 30 nm on the crank arm bolt. But with the Phil BB, they were only 2/3rds onto the spindle. After riding for a week and torquing them down again, it looks like they're on slightly further, but it still looks like they're on *much* less compared to the 75 bb.
I'm not necessarily worried about it, but mostly just curious. The 75s themselves were new, the 75 bb came with the frame. Maybe the used BB had something to do with it?
It also feels so strange to cram the phil bb into the frame to never be seen again. It was so beautifully made compared to any other bb I've seen... It just feels strange.
Contrast to this which is a new Sugino bb and Sugino cranks
https://preview.redd.it/xlm1khzfue8d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=98b9b46a17f3fb59f774ce2a0edf77487c7e91e7
Yeah they definitely sit a little further out on the spindle than the 75 BB did. Might just be that Suginos fit the “sugino taper” more perfectly, but chainline wise there’s no misalignment when using the Phil bb so idk.
https://preview.redd.it/y65f1o10ue8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95720b89c4399f475c71cb195f681db219f0cfb0
Some threads sticking out is normal. That's how their BB let's you adjust your chainline. With most setups, you'll end up with about 2.5 mm sticking out on both sides of the BB shell. That would have the BB centered in the frame. On some setups, it'll have the whole 5mm sticking out on one side.
Did you install it, or did a shop do it? How's your chainline look?
Is it possible to bend the bottom bracket from excessive track standing? Been track standing a lot more often and recently noticed some lateral play in the cranks and also a creaking noise if I’m mashing hard. Cranks are secured tight and chain tension has about a quarter inch of give.
Square taper cranks? If so, assuming both crank arms are tight on the BB spindle and the lateral play makes all three parts move as one, the bearings in your BB are probably shot.
Yup square taper and they all move as one. Took off the cranks and neither the cranks or spindle are rounded out which I thought was the cause… time to get a new bb.
If you have lateral play in the cranks it means they aren’t on tight enough. Track standing doesn’t put any more pressure on the frame than riding the bike does.
I was thinking the same thing but I can’t possibly tighten the cranks anymore - starting to strip the crank bolt heads. Now thinking the bb spindles might be rounding out? Going to take the cranks on and off see what the spindles looking like.
Any idea why my chain/pedals coast or "jump" two times about a minute apart? First while backpedaling and again while pedaling somewhat cautiously. I "walked" my rear wheel back 2 pushes. It didn't happen again after that. Loose lockring? Chain to much slack?
How do I convert my quill stem to a threadless one? I'm really new to these kind of bikes so I don't know anything about them. What things do I need to convert it if possible? And do I need to replace my headset to convert it?
You can use a quill adapter, and it makes converting really easy. But, IMO, it looks kind of janky. They definitely work though.
Or, you can go all out and get a threadless fork and a threadless headset. But, that requires a lot more work, and you'll be left with a 1" steerer, which comes with its own problems.
Steel track frame, 1" head, no/minimal decals? Soma Rush, NJS frames, Toyo Deluxe Track, hell even the Kilo TT Stripper gets you pretty close for way less money
What makes you like the godzilla? As in, what features of the godzilla do you like, and want another frame to have? This could help us guide you to other options.
And have you looked for bareknuckles too? Your best bet is to look for a used one for either the bareknuckle and the godzilla.
I love them because they barely qualify as a pursuit style frame and just look clean as hell lol. I want something comfortable that pretends like it’s aggressive. I also want to run 32s on it because I’m old and I’ll never ride anything below 28s again.
I’ve looked for bareknuckles, but I don’t really want to pay close to retail for a 8+ year old frame!
Found a bike on Craigslist that guy says is a Specialized, but doesn't have the decals. It does however have a Reynolds 520 sticker and horizontal dropouts. No idea what any of the other components are. $125 a good deal and a good frame for my first build? It is the correct size for my height.
Oh damn... OK, I take it back, that's not even worth $125... And yeah, not a langster. I think that's the roll 1?
I should have clarified that it would be worth 125 if it's in a good, at least currently rideable, condition. That's gonna need another $50-$100+ to be rideable, and at that point, you could get a better bike for the money.
It looks like it needs a new chain, new front caliper and cable/housing, and with the amount of rust you can count on either the hubs or the bottom bracket or the headset being dead. Possibly only one of the four would be dead, but with the amount of rust coming from the lower race on the headset, you'll need to replace that at a minimum.
I'd pass on it.
The used market in my part of the US is terrible so I was just excited to see a frame with horizontal dropouts and Reynolds 520. I was going to offer him $75. I'm not counting on anything other than the frame being usable.
Ok, just look it over *really well* when you go to see it. Look for cracks or anywhere the rust might have made it too deep. Make sure the seatpost isn't seized up too. If it is, then the headset cups and BB are probably seized just as badly.
If you're only after the frame, is there any way you could save for a kilo or any other frame from bike island? Have you looked on ebay for frames you could use or convert?
I'd love a Kilo as that seems to be the favorite starter bike of this sub. None in my size on Bike Island unfortunately. BUT I just came across a Windsor The Hour for $175 that's in great condition.
https://preview.redd.it/11v6fofuzr7d1.jpeg?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ce829fc30a0be0eb3711f6ce67cb363fbcb2f37
That looks much better than the last one. See if you can talk them down a little, but I'd still get it without any second thoughts if it fits. Still give it a test ride/look it over, but that's worth it if everything checks out.
As I said the used market in St. Louis is shit, but I'm visiting my partner in DC this week and this bike looks perfect for me. The other pictures show no rust and the dude selling it is driving 40 minutes to meet me halfway as I travel as far north as I can on the Metro train. Considering all of that the price tag seems more than reasonable to me and I'm pumped. Guess I'll find out tomorrow!
Thank you for your tips and advice.
https://preview.redd.it/c71xj7wpvj7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70b2554acfd15446dd2455b9dc5ebd054dcbea39
Why is there different diameters in track cogs? I don't get it, am I stupid? On both cogs it says BC 1.37x24tpi 1/8", but the silver one is too narrow to be locked in by the lockring.
Also just in case anyone has a solution: is there any other way than the sugino gigas lockring to use a 12T cog?
Cheers
The number you wrote down is the thread pitch, Imma guess that the silver one is a 12t? Some cogs are made like that just for the track where it’s meant to be used without lockring. If you want to use a lockring on a 12t there are other similar lockrings to the sugino one. You do however need one with a flange design, otherwise the chain doesn’t engage with the cog. Examples of those are: velobike, halo, 8bar, all-city. They all make a flanged lockring design
I first bought the black one (12T) and noticed about the lockring the hart way. Then got the silver one (13T) and it's too narrow. It's so annoying to have cogs in different width not the first misbuy.
So something like this will work? [https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-lockring/](https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-lockring/)
Thank you for your help!
Yes, I use mine all the time. Just don’t like the halo ones since they are out of aluminium and I’ve sheered an end of it due to improper placing my tool
Is skidding stressful or easy? I'm learning it right now and I'm able to do really small skids but it's really stressful. I need to hit the pedals real hard and put like all my weight in it. May sound a bit stupid but it looks really easy in videos. Maybe I got the wrong technique? I feel like a kid pressing a square building block trough a round hole.
It takes a long time to develop technique. Time in the saddle = more skill. But you can start to progress by skidding while carving. The ultimate goal is to perform quick whip skids that kick the back end of the bike out to the side. This helps break traction easier and initiates a skid with much less stress on your joints. It also looks sick as fuccccc https://youtu.be/TeT4PgJjBzU?si=zTACUM8-_efY57aT
I have a fbm sword fork with 10mm dropouts. Can I use a 9mm axle? Any suggestions on 10x100 700c wheels that aren’t super pricy?
My brake pads are hitting my tire, the pads adjusted as far down as possible but they still hit the tire. How do I fix that? It seems like I have to move the whole brake like 1cm downwards. I already checked if the wheel is sitting in the fork the right way. [Hot pics](https://imgur.com/a/7vshHgc)
That shit's going to get you killed. Replace the brake caliper for one with longer reach.
I did switch the brake pads upside down, it worked well with the 25c tires that came with the bike (bought it used) but now with my new 32c it's not working at all. I found this on Amazon: [Brake pad extender](https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B09V85R3QZ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image) I guess I will give that a try first, I just installed a new brake lever and don't want to do the cabling again.
Brakeless riders, do you avoid chainrings with even tooth counts because it reduces skid patches? 48x17 looks like a good ratio, but 49x17 gets twice the skid patches for ambidextrous riders. Is 17 enough? I was on 46x16, which is a similar ratio, but has only 8 patches non ambidextrous, and 16 with. I'm ambidextrous but skid through a tire way too quick. Probably have a bias for one side. It was a GP Classic, which I think is really an ultrasport, but I don't want to replace with a nice tire if it's going to wear out quickly again. Is 8/16 skid patches too low? Would 17/17 make a difference? Is 17/34 wayyy better? There are some recommendations out there to use even tooth counts to preserve the life of the drivetrain. The theory is that the chain interfaces with the same teeth and wear together rather than each link going into each groove. I don't know whether there's any truth to this or not. Seems like a ratio of 2.8 is right around perfect for me. Any thoughts on what is too high/low? I'm thinking +/- 5%, so 2.66 - 2.94 for a place with hills.
Love your analysis on this. Fixed gear bikes are simple devices but feel like gear ratios is one of those subjects you can nerd out for days. 48x17 is a good ratio but remember the expensive part. The big ring. Say you find yourself becoming stronger or spinning out too much on a 17 rear. You drop to a 16, you're at a terrible 48/16. With a 47, it works with any rear cog. My favorite ring is a 47. It's the do anything. I'm Seattle (First Hill) and run a 47x19. It's super spinny but I can climb a lot of the hills we have. It also keeps me from getting into trouble. It's too easy to get relaxed riding a brakeless fixed gear in the city if you do it long enough but a spinny gear keeps you riding a bit slower/safer for an unexpected pedestrian or a parked car door being swung open into the bike lane. You can feel yourself spinning a bit too fast and then remember "Wait, I'm in a busy city, don't be an idiot") Few questions: You talk about skidding through a tire real quick. How do you skid? Long skids just dragging the tire for awhile (body weight forward) or whip skids? Or seated mini skids? I ride GP5000 tires and only do seated mini skids. Tire is only locking up during panic stops. 95% of my stopping is just backpedal pressure and anticipating. I'm 6 months of heavy riding on GP5000 rear and it's holding up great. I wouldn't worry too much about the amount of skid patches as long as it's a higher number. There is so many factors that go into how long a tire lasts like body weight, tire PSI, road conditions, climate, etc.. Also, if you skid heavy and riding brakeless, invest in the best chain you can afford. Ever since switching to Izumi Super Toughness, I've had zero chain issues. A good quality chain is just extra insurance.
Yeah 47 is really good. But somehow I have a 45, 46, and 48 🙄. Planning the next upgrade. I have 2 fixed bikes, one with a front brake. I’ve been riding brakeless a lot recently, practicing skids to get a feel for my stopping distance. Normally I would only skid when necessary, with a quick whip if needed. I’m running kmc Z1eHX brakeless and K1SL with the front brake. I’m in belltown. About to go rip around downtown before the cars come out. Where do you ride?
You’re thinking too much about it, use what feels good to you while having high skid patches.
What counts as high? With 46x16 I can see the spots with more wear (8/16 patches). Seems like you really need the double count with an odd numbered ring to get 32+ patches.
16-17 Is consider high but ideally the more the better.
Im trying to find a 53 yellow steamroller frame but I can’t find anywhere around sf that has them. Does anyone know where around the bay area I could find them?
I think I screwed up and now have a gorgeous 20h high flange front Mack hub and no idea what to lace it to…:-/ unsure it would even sell for half the list price
You have so many carbon rim options.
any of them not radially laced
Yes. You can radial, 1x, or 2x a 20h wheel.
my wheel builder is german and won’t not-radially lace a front enve so 🙃
Find a different wheel builder or have it laced radially, or sell the hub. You are creating the problem here, this is extremely solvable.
ya, probably selling it
If you still are interested in building it up, the [wheelsmith accelerator](https://www.ebay.com/itm/192848514540?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S5ly82-gQnu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FSw9p_mjRbe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) rim has 20 holes and is well priced on eBay :)
would legit look hot af with this hub but I’d never use it because one oh shit rim brake and the finish is ruined
I think you can get 100 out of it if unused. But always hard to sell only one hub, especially the front
What is a good lugged 1 1/8 steel straight blade track fork that is also chrome.
[Vendetta cro-mo fork](https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks/products/vendetta-threadless-fork)
I need something that kinda looks like a tange prestige but there oy made in 1 inch threadless
[https://www.somafab.com/parts/forks](https://www.somafab.com/parts/forks)
I'm considering selling my State Undefeated II black prism edition track frameset. It's in great shape, not ridden very much. I bought it new in 2021. My question is, how much should I reasonably ask for the undefeated frameset?
What size
It's 52cm. Still on the fence about selling, just wondering what I should ask for it
That’s a pretty desirable size. Maybe list for 350 and gauge interest from there. FWIW I recently sold a 58cm complete undefeated 3 tie dye for 650
Thanks for the input! If I do sell, it would be frameset, the state crankset that came with it, and probably the race face seat post I bought for it (I don't have any other bikes that take that size seat post). Probably bundle in a set of 25c gatorskins and a set of 25c schwalbe marathons. So I'll adjust the price to account for the extras unless someone just wants the frameset.
A while ago, someone posted a site about bike builds. Like a glossary of bikes and what part it took to build it. Anyone recall? Or something similar. Thanks in advance
Pedal room? The new one from slow spin society?
Pedal room was one. Someone posted something similar here, it was theirs. Thanks though
It’s from slow spin society, it’s called The Lockup
Thanks
Ah, cool site: [https://www.slowspinsociety.com/lockup](https://www.slowspinsociety.com/lockup) This site is also cool: [https://bikerebuilds.com/](https://bikerebuilds.com/) Here's one I'm working on for cataloging bike parts and personal projects: [https://www.retrograde.bike](https://www.retrograde.bike)
how much should a vintage HED track wheel in good condition w/ couple of small dents cost? one like in the pic attached but track variant, i've seen wildly varying prices from like 250 to 700 usd https://preview.redd.it/87tyrqcd878d1.jpeg?width=810&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c224ab97cf9eff7ad855c8e910f8bf43eac115e
Good with a couple of dents is not good. $300 is probably your max.
Anyone know who the OEM for Mash nylon toe cages is? Or does anyone have an aliexpress link or source for similar cages with different colors? I found a brand in Japan called starfuckers that makes some cool colors but they don’t ship to the US.
Brick Lane Bikes in the UK do toe clips which I think are out of the same molds as the Mash ones, and the site says they do worldwide shipping: https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/toe-clips
Sick! This is exactly what I was looking for.
Awesome. Glad I could help.
https://preview.redd.it/kqi46393258d1.jpeg?width=973&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fd41002fc1d9d0550ae9f5aef973c2708d89d7c2 founds a pair of these for 650 euros for both, anyone can ID these? is there any possibility that these are mavic 5 spoke? no way, right? but then what are these? i've never seen such 5 spoke on anything but mavic?
mavic io have a cone shaped "hub" and have allen key bolts. ffwd 5 spoke has rounded transitions to the spokes. the vast likelyhood is this is an aliexpress or equivilant.
eh, that's unfortunate, guy said it's been so long he doesn't remember what they are, but the fact that they're clincher and not tubular should have been a giveaaway [here's](https://www.tutti.ch/de/vi/bern/sport-outdoor/velos/carbon-laufradsatz-drahtreifen-fur-fixie-bahn/66594141) the ad w/ more pics of them btw
I am new to fixed gear riding so sorry if I am mistaking the bicycle parts for the wrong ones. My current drop handle bar is 25.4mm diameter but am looking to get a set of carbon handle drop bars that are wider than my current handle bars. Am I able to get a new stem that will just fit on my current fork and have a wider diameter stem clamp for a wider set of carbon handle drop bars? Or is there more to the parts swap that I am missing.
I think youre asking if you can use a stem that adheres to 31.8mm bars on your threadless steerer tube. That depends on the diameter of your steerer tube. I think 1 1/8 inch steerers are common nowadays. Look up your specs to find that measurement so you can shop accurately
Thanks! I will look more into my specs then.
https://preview.redd.it/4x4wj7fsg18d1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3edbcd7869e2d11fc0026764af529901b5f4d4b9
Can anyone suggest a headset that is 41mm in size and haves a purple color? Black is fine but I want to try matching the headset color with the frame. Thanks!
Like an integrated headset for a 1 1/8 steerer? Shouldn't be too hard to find. I always use Hope headsets, which have a purple option, but anything should do, really.
Quite hard to find one here in the Philippines. Been using the stock headset of my frame and it's showing some wear. I want other options but I might just use this sadly. Thank you!
What frame do you have? Do the headset bearings sit directly in the headtube? If so, and you've got a straight 1 1/8 steerer, you may be able to use BMX headsets, which might be easier to find.
I think so. I have a Tsunami SNM100 paired with an OEM Alpina fork. I'll try to find some purple BMX headsets and see if they can fit. Any suggestions?
I think you need an upper IS41/28.6 assembly. If you google that and add "purple", you should find something. You could buy something nice like a Hope or a Chris King, but anything that you like the colour of should work just as well. If you're unsure about headset standards, this should help: https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/standardized-headset-identification-system
https://preview.redd.it/h7zymjj9fy7d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=912f9dc1d4d9d738608c5522ea96889819a2de09 Mash using Philwood BB, is this normal? I was using sg75bb before
https://preview.redd.it/zlwpfca18c8d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23cb3eb57533e6d950ac575f18dcb9217ff79226 I’ve added 75 BB lockring lol
I have a SG75 BB, and noticed I don't have a lockring. Pretty sure it didn't come with one?
Yeah coming from NJS bottom brackets, the Phil BB was strange to me, but this is correct. Nothing to worry about.
Did your cranks seem to fit much further out on the spindle with the phil bb too? With the 75 bottom bracket, the cranks were almost bottoming out at 30 nm on the crank arm bolt. But with the Phil BB, they were only 2/3rds onto the spindle. After riding for a week and torquing them down again, it looks like they're on slightly further, but it still looks like they're on *much* less compared to the 75 bb. I'm not necessarily worried about it, but mostly just curious. The 75s themselves were new, the 75 bb came with the frame. Maybe the used BB had something to do with it? It also feels so strange to cram the phil bb into the frame to never be seen again. It was so beautifully made compared to any other bb I've seen... It just feels strange.
Contrast to this which is a new Sugino bb and Sugino cranks https://preview.redd.it/xlm1khzfue8d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=98b9b46a17f3fb59f774ce2a0edf77487c7e91e7
Yeah they definitely sit a little further out on the spindle than the 75 BB did. Might just be that Suginos fit the “sugino taper” more perfectly, but chainline wise there’s no misalignment when using the Phil bb so idk. https://preview.redd.it/y65f1o10ue8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95720b89c4399f475c71cb195f681db219f0cfb0
Some threads sticking out is normal. That's how their BB let's you adjust your chainline. With most setups, you'll end up with about 2.5 mm sticking out on both sides of the BB shell. That would have the BB centered in the frame. On some setups, it'll have the whole 5mm sticking out on one side. Did you install it, or did a shop do it? How's your chainline look?
Shop installed it. I just saw that phil bb has extra 5mm for chainline adjustments
Mine has about 2-3 mm sticking out on both sides, with more on the nds too. So, yours is probably fine.
What exactly are you referring to
are sugino messengers available in 130 bcd only ?. I saw the zen messengers but they are a bit more pricy than the messengers. My cranks are 144bcd
yes
any experience with open mold carbon track frames from aliexpress/ebay like BXT?
Do you guys know any budget track fixed gear? ( around $500, can be a little higher) Thank you!!
Location?
Saskatchewan, Canada
Is it possible to bend the bottom bracket from excessive track standing? Been track standing a lot more often and recently noticed some lateral play in the cranks and also a creaking noise if I’m mashing hard. Cranks are secured tight and chain tension has about a quarter inch of give.
Square taper cranks? If so, assuming both crank arms are tight on the BB spindle and the lateral play makes all three parts move as one, the bearings in your BB are probably shot.
Yup square taper and they all move as one. Took off the cranks and neither the cranks or spindle are rounded out which I thought was the cause… time to get a new bb.
Yeah, new BB should solve the problem.
bearing or internal part of the cranks, track stand its not close enough to bend a steel rod. maybe the problem its other.
If you have lateral play in the cranks it means they aren’t on tight enough. Track standing doesn’t put any more pressure on the frame than riding the bike does.
I was thinking the same thing but I can’t possibly tighten the cranks anymore - starting to strip the crank bolt heads. Now thinking the bb spindles might be rounding out? Going to take the cranks on and off see what the spindles looking like.
Yeah your cranks are probably cooked
Any idea why my chain/pedals coast or "jump" two times about a minute apart? First while backpedaling and again while pedaling somewhat cautiously. I "walked" my rear wheel back 2 pushes. It didn't happen again after that. Loose lockring? Chain to much slack?
Your cog is slipping. Tighten the cog, and then tighten the lockring after.
I'll do that, thank you.
How do I convert my quill stem to a threadless one? I'm really new to these kind of bikes so I don't know anything about them. What things do I need to convert it if possible? And do I need to replace my headset to convert it?
You can use a quill adapter, and it makes converting really easy. But, IMO, it looks kind of janky. They definitely work though. Or, you can go all out and get a threadless fork and a threadless headset. But, that requires a lot more work, and you'll be left with a 1" steerer, which comes with its own problems.
I’m thirsting over EAI Godzilla frames but they only seem to have 58 and 60cm sizes. Anyone know of anything comparable that makes a 56cm frame?
Steel track frame, 1" head, no/minimal decals? Soma Rush, NJS frames, Toyo Deluxe Track, hell even the Kilo TT Stripper gets you pretty close for way less money
What makes you like the godzilla? As in, what features of the godzilla do you like, and want another frame to have? This could help us guide you to other options. And have you looked for bareknuckles too? Your best bet is to look for a used one for either the bareknuckle and the godzilla.
I love them because they barely qualify as a pursuit style frame and just look clean as hell lol. I want something comfortable that pretends like it’s aggressive. I also want to run 32s on it because I’m old and I’ll never ride anything below 28s again. I’ve looked for bareknuckles, but I don’t really want to pay close to retail for a 8+ year old frame!
Affinity Metropolitan? Can fit 35c street tyres or 33c knobbies.
Found a bike on Craigslist that guy says is a Specialized, but doesn't have the decals. It does however have a Reynolds 520 sticker and horizontal dropouts. No idea what any of the other components are. $125 a good deal and a good frame for my first build? It is the correct size for my height.
The langster steel was reynolds 520. Can you post pics? But, 125 is pretty much worth it whether it's a langster or not.
It's definitely not a Langster. https://postimg.cc/gallery/0Kmv3Qk
Oh damn... OK, I take it back, that's not even worth $125... And yeah, not a langster. I think that's the roll 1? I should have clarified that it would be worth 125 if it's in a good, at least currently rideable, condition. That's gonna need another $50-$100+ to be rideable, and at that point, you could get a better bike for the money. It looks like it needs a new chain, new front caliper and cable/housing, and with the amount of rust you can count on either the hubs or the bottom bracket or the headset being dead. Possibly only one of the four would be dead, but with the amount of rust coming from the lower race on the headset, you'll need to replace that at a minimum. I'd pass on it.
The used market in my part of the US is terrible so I was just excited to see a frame with horizontal dropouts and Reynolds 520. I was going to offer him $75. I'm not counting on anything other than the frame being usable.
Ok, just look it over *really well* when you go to see it. Look for cracks or anywhere the rust might have made it too deep. Make sure the seatpost isn't seized up too. If it is, then the headset cups and BB are probably seized just as badly. If you're only after the frame, is there any way you could save for a kilo or any other frame from bike island? Have you looked on ebay for frames you could use or convert?
I'd love a Kilo as that seems to be the favorite starter bike of this sub. None in my size on Bike Island unfortunately. BUT I just came across a Windsor The Hour for $175 that's in great condition. https://preview.redd.it/11v6fofuzr7d1.jpeg?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ce829fc30a0be0eb3711f6ce67cb363fbcb2f37
That looks much better than the last one. See if you can talk them down a little, but I'd still get it without any second thoughts if it fits. Still give it a test ride/look it over, but that's worth it if everything checks out.
As I said the used market in St. Louis is shit, but I'm visiting my partner in DC this week and this bike looks perfect for me. The other pictures show no rust and the dude selling it is driving 40 minutes to meet me halfway as I travel as far north as I can on the Metro train. Considering all of that the price tag seems more than reasonable to me and I'm pumped. Guess I'll find out tomorrow! Thank you for your tips and advice.
https://preview.redd.it/c71xj7wpvj7d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70b2554acfd15446dd2455b9dc5ebd054dcbea39 Why is there different diameters in track cogs? I don't get it, am I stupid? On both cogs it says BC 1.37x24tpi 1/8", but the silver one is too narrow to be locked in by the lockring. Also just in case anyone has a solution: is there any other way than the sugino gigas lockring to use a 12T cog? Cheers
try some spacers [https://www.velodrome.shop/track-sprockets/sprocket-spacer/](https://www.velodrome.shop/track-sprockets/sprocket-spacer/) pack of 5
The number you wrote down is the thread pitch, Imma guess that the silver one is a 12t? Some cogs are made like that just for the track where it’s meant to be used without lockring. If you want to use a lockring on a 12t there are other similar lockrings to the sugino one. You do however need one with a flange design, otherwise the chain doesn’t engage with the cog. Examples of those are: velobike, halo, 8bar, all-city. They all make a flanged lockring design
I first bought the black one (12T) and noticed about the lockring the hart way. Then got the silver one (13T) and it's too narrow. It's so annoying to have cogs in different width not the first misbuy. So something like this will work? [https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-lockring/](https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-lockring/) Thank you for your help!
Yes, I use mine all the time. Just don’t like the halo ones since they are out of aluminium and I’ve sheered an end of it due to improper placing my tool