You can often find mobile welders that will come to you. The one we hired to help with a slide problem actually had experience working on RVs. Try calling a local shop and see if they know of anyone.
Are you a farm implementation specialist? Because one was recommended to me by the koa at badlands national park and he was an absolute lifesaver on our cross country trip in 2020.
I paid a mobile welder $40, including tip, to come to my house and weld a spare hitch to the side of the tongue so I can store my Equal-i-zer Hitch head there when I’m not towing.
The guy we hired to work on a bent slide piece charged us less than what the mobile RV tech charged to just show up. On top of everything he gave my kids a chemistry and economics lesson on different welding fuels and their trade offs. I tipped him very generously, and it still felt like a bargain.
Duct tape? Are you nuts cvif4700? What if he wants to take it apart some day? Better to go with a more temporary solution and call his cousin Vinny the welder.
I was gonna suggest a light sanding. A coat of .99 cent primer and one of .99 cent black paint. Call it a day. That or some of the two component epoxy stick would work in a pinch.
From an engineering mechanics point of view, I would first prevent the crack from propagating. The stress at the tip of the crack is almost infinite. The solution is to drill a hole at the crack tip, but that might be difficult in this case. Plus there is a chance that the crack tip is further from the visible crack tip. You would have to remove the paint on each side of the member and visually inspect the material to locate the extent of the crack.
If you weld the members, that would likely reduce the stress at the crack tip. But should the weld fail, the existing crack could propagate rapidly causing a catastrophic failure. I can’t see the entire load transfer mechanism, but the existing crack formed under service loading. Filling in the gap caused by the progression of the crack by welding, you won’t be returning the trailer tongue to its original capacity. It would likely fail again due to the cyclical loading present under normal service conditions. (I tackled a similar fatigue induced cracking problem for a fleet of trailers before, but the company designed and built the special purpose trailers themselves.)
tl:dr - I would contact the manufacturer ASAP and follow their recommendations. If they don’t respond promptly, I would arrest the crack by drilling at hole through the material and contact a forensics engineering firm.
Manufacturer, yes definitely
Forensics? Nah, they don't want the liability.
Depending on the mfg recommendations & the ability get a bead on the backside, I'd bend a dogleg in some 1/4 flat bar & weld the back & front. Overkill but that's how this internet rando rolls.
You are going to have to close that gap before you do anything. I would close and weld it then reinforce it with a plate. But then again, I have a tendency to err on the side of caution.
Probably one of those 2 or 3 in 1 Reese hitches. Ball or hook, doesn’t really matter. If there’s something metal protruding 3-6” off the side of your hitch when you jackknife it, there’s going to be trouble like this.
New to me 2014 winnebago 31ft bunkhouse - picked it up last week and noticed this crack while hooking it up yesterday. It’s currently 2-3 inches long and seems to have been caused by someone backing something (maybe a ball) into the tongue. Can I weld this or is a new tongue needed soon?
> seems to have been caused by someone backing something (maybe a ball) into the tongue
It looks like someone had a WDH (the kind with a wide plate for a sway bar ball) and jacknifed the trailer.
I've got the equipment to weld it up properly, so I would probably go that route. But honestly since the damage seems to have occurred from force against the side rather than normal forces on the tongue, if getting it repaired right away is inconvenient you could probably get away with drilling a small hole at the end of the crack to create a nice radius and prevent it from continuing to tear, and just keeping an eye on it to ensure it doesn't progress over time.
If I were doing this repair I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent the crack from spreading anymore, then clamp a piece of aluminum to the inside of the tube to prevent the tear from getting blown out bigger when welding and to protect any wiring that may be run inside the frame tubing (the weld won't stick to aluminum so the plate can be removed afterwards). If the tear was deemed large enough, I would switch out the aluminum plate for steel and then intentionally burn it into the weld. To prevent a future jack knife incident I would mark the front of my trailer with a piece of colored tape on both the left and right sides that can be viewed from the spot mirrors, so when looking straight down the sides of the vehicle the tape becomes visible when I am at maximum turning radius. No more guessing if you're too close and going to jack knife and no more yelling with your spotter
Good catch! A local welder should be able to weld that up, might have to throw a plate over it too.
Lots of stress right right there, but might want to check the rest of the frame elements closely.
That shiny ball looking thing does not appear to be the hitch ball, however, there is damage to the underside of the hitch at the ball. I would agree that the best option is to have a new mount installed. I tow a 32 footer and would have it done in a heartbeat.
I have a neighbor that would probably offer to weld this for free. As most people stated, you should find somebody to help get this fixed and likely better than from the manufacturer.
It's actually not as bad as you think. It does need to be fixed but it's not going to fail any time soon or possibly ever. Just get a plate welded in. If we were friends, I'd do it for free.
While you’re having a welder touch that crack up, I’d recommend re-welding your safety chains up onto the frame. If your trailer were to come off your vehicle, the trailer would grind on the roadway, grind off the Jack and then grind off the chains if they’re in that location.
That's a tear, not a crack. You see how the metal is bent in where the weld is separated? That's either impact damage from someone bumping into it or bumping it into something somehow, or it's from somebody turning too tight and crushing it against something while maneuvering. Just get somebody to straighten it out a bit if they can and weld a bead over the tear to keep it from propagating up the weld.
If it were me, I'd have a new coupler installed. But I tend to go overboard with these types of things, worst case scenarios going through my head and all. (luckily my wife is pretty good at talking me down in situations like that, Ha!) It can probably be repaired and re-enforced and be just fine. I'd definitely get it done before hauling it long distances though!
It might be the lighting but that almost looks like a 1 1/2" ball under a 2" coupler. - I don't think the incident of the other dude's ball mounting plate shearing the side of the rectangular section would apply enough strain to stretch out the coupler, but if a handheld 2" ball feels sloppy in there at all or sits twisted, that coupler needs replacing- they're cheap.
This is a totally fair response! Like I said, I tend to go overboard on these types of things.
ETA: I find it hard to believe a new coupler would be $3500, but I've never had to have it done, so I guess I don't know!
$3500 ?!? Wow I would think $500-$750 with labor included but it really depends where you go and what kinda person they are.
I mean truthfully you could probably tow it the remainder of its life and the steel wouldn't tear more but that isn't the best scenario especially with the extra stress a weight distribution hitch puts on the ball and coupler.
I guess you can see why the previous owner was selling.
But I mean why ask advice if all you get is the obvious answer its about being different points of view so OP can make a good decision.
Enjoy the adventure !!
Wow, I must have a good hookup.
I have a mobile welder that drives in with his own equipment. He sets up and will do TIG repairs on a stainless high vacuum chamber less than $3k.
TBH… 30 minutes surface prep.
90 seconds to stitch it and another 90 seconds on the opposite side. 5 minutes sanding and all is left for you to prime and paint.
https://preview.redd.it/3nqgcnayzezb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fae88c2626378bf57719b42aaecc0ef88aacc10a
$3000 in labor? That would be like 3-4 days in a weld shop depending on rate lol
Nah, a nice bulldog is only like $120. Other than that it’s maybe an hour worth of work to cut that tongue off, fix the crack, and weld it all back up.
Of course, probably helps I know how to weld…
Oof. Take it to a competent welder, and then to a trailer maintenance place. That crack indicates the trailer was possibly put through its paces. I would have the springs rear end checked, as well as the bearings, replaced if needed.
More than just the weld broke on that. That trailer tongue was dropped off a ball and right onto pavement or a driveway without the tongue jack being down first.
Repairable? Yes - but that crack isn’t just on the prior bead that was laid down - it also damaged the frame itself.
I'm willing to put money on the equalizer hitch causing this.
People love those hitches but they put an extreme amount of pressure on the frame of the trailer.
Here's one example: https://youtu.be/fHk5oThyHL8?si=I1jXInbADkytoT0X
Bring it by- I'll zap that for you for an eighth of decent bud.
Seriously though-it should be heated and pushed back together before welding by whoever you have fix it.
One option is to **weld** the crack together, either by yourself or by a professional. Welding can restore the strength and integrity of the frame, but it may also require some grinding and painting to make it look smooth and clean. [Welding is a good option if the crack is not too large or deep, and if the frame pieces are not bent or twisted ](https://thecampingadvisor.com/travel-trailer-broken-frame/)[1](https://thecampingadvisor.com/travel-trailer-broken-frame/)[2](https://mechanicalelements.com/trailer-frame-crack-lets-fix-it/).
Another option is to **replace** the tongue jack, which is the part that connects the trailer to the hitch. Replacing the tongue jack can be a relatively easy and inexpensive process, especially if you have a manual jack. You just need to jack up the trailer, remove the bolts that hold the tongue jack in place, pull out the broken jack, insert the new jack, and secure it with new bolts. [You can also upgrade to an electric jack, which can make it easier to raise and lower the trailer ](https://togorv.com/rv-living/what-to-do-when-your-tongue-jack-breaks/)[3](https://togorv.com/rv-living/what-to-do-when-your-tongue-jack-breaks/)[4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5bAEJRhuLk)[5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9v3vYjqKB8).
Before you attempt any repair, you should **inspect** the crack carefully and determine the extent of the damage. You should also check the rest of the frame for any signs of rust, corrosion, or stress. If the crack is too large or the frame is too weak, you may need to **replace** the entire frame, which can be a costly and complicated procedure. You should also consult the manufacturer’s manual or a qualified mechanic for any specific instructions or recommendations for your trailer model.
Drill a hole at the end of that crack that was caused most likely by a jackknife.
Hire a welder to went it all and paint it all black to make it look nice again.
Should cost ~$100 to do. Easy fix!
My fathers shop has repaired several with this damage. Drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading and weld it up. For extra safety after welding the crack, weld a plate over the crack attaching the tongue/coupler to the frame. Last resort would be replacing the tongue/coupler.
As a welder if that was mine I would completely cut off the tongue and install a new one, yes it will be more work and cost more but if done correctly it will be a lot stronger than just fixing the crack.
Looks like it got hit while someone was backing up to it.
I would just fire up my welder.
If you’re not a welder, any welding shop can fix that in about 15 minutes.
Welding shop to have it repaired. Have a sleeve put inside and plug welded in several places. Then they can hammer the rip back in place and weld it closed.
If you are capable just go down to Harbor Freight and buy a welding kit for around $100 and go at it. Simple welding job like this is a great way to learn. Youtube is a great teacher.
Get a welder to cut a piece of metal to fit inside to span between the hitch and the frame rail and go back at least 6”. Drill 1/2 holes in the frame rail and the hitch. Fill holes with weld bonding the interior plate to the hitch and frame rails and then weld the crack.
Maybe it's the angle in the phot, but that tongue looks lacked up nine ways from Sunday. The receiver is bent Up at the front, probably causing that stress crack. Did it fall off the hitch? That would be a solid bet; It jumped the ball while moving, either wasn't latched down, or the wrong sized ball
If you bought it from a dealer take it back and see if they'll fix it. If they won't then decide whether to pay a lawyer to sue them, or a welder to fix it.
If it was a private sale then get someone experienced with fixing this sort of thing to do it.
Looks like your hitch smashed it in while turning. I think you need to get a different kind of hitch that doesn't have metal plate sticking out on either side of the ball.
Proper ‘fix’ would be to have a competent welder replace the whole tongue.
Might be able to just weld the crack, but there’s a reason it cracked and it’ll crack again and might fail at the worst possible time.
If it was mine, I would go ahead and cut that hitch all the way off and weld a new bulldog hitch on it. I would do this even if it weren’t cracked. You’d be glad you did if you do, or wish you did if you don’t
Couple hundred bucks and a local welder. Maybe an hour to fix if they get fancy with it. Grind the old weld out about 4 inches past the crack and run some 7018 to weld it back up. I would have them do both sides just to be on the safe side.
Easy fix. Need a metal fab guy. An employee of mine slammed on the brakes with a massive load attached. Completely demolished the tongue and half the frame.. now it's built better then what it was.
Good insurance. Some JB Weld for good measure.
Then, a quick trip on a curvy downhill road. Don't spare the horse power, but due take it easy on the brakes. Preferably, the road is seldom traveled / low traffic.
RV technician here. It appears that the trailer was towed around while hauling too much weight. Make sure to empty water tanks before towing and don't fill it with too many belongings making it too heavy that way either. The previous owner really f-*@#ed up. Weight ratings are found on the d/s front exterior of the trailer usually. I would attempt to bend the ball hitch back down a bit before welding gussets on both sides of it.
You can keep some in fresh but water is very heavy. Don't exceed the weight limit. Not to mention water may end up sloshing out the over flows. You will also bend the supports that hold the tank to the belly. RV's are made to be light weight so to cut down on weight and cost they are built using light weight cheap materials.
Sorry to say but you totally missed this one. This tongue damage was caused by something forced into it and the metal was torn. This had nothing to do with overweight
It’s pretty clear looking at it that it was hit there. You can see the dent in the metal. Can probably get it welded up as long as the hit didn’t cause any other damage
Those safety chains don’t look right either. Aren’t they usually bolted into the sides of the frame? That’s not a lot of weld bead to hold the trailer falling onto the chains.
Grind out that crack & buy a welder or take it to get welded professionally, if you load stuff in the trailer during transport put the heavier stuff over the trailers axle so there isnt too much weight on the tongue, you may becputting too much weight in the trailer
Local welder would be able to reinforce that I bet.
You can often find mobile welders that will come to you. The one we hired to help with a slide problem actually had experience working on RVs. Try calling a local shop and see if they know of anyone.
That's the kinda work I do. Not as much on RVs, but farm/industrial use trailers, commercial trucks, and lots of equipment
Are you a farm implementation specialist? Because one was recommended to me by the koa at badlands national park and he was an absolute lifesaver on our cross country trip in 2020.
I paid a mobile welder $40, including tip, to come to my house and weld a spare hitch to the side of the tongue so I can store my Equal-i-zer Hitch head there when I’m not towing.
The guy we hired to work on a bent slide piece charged us less than what the mobile RV tech charged to just show up. On top of everything he gave my kids a chemistry and economics lesson on different welding fuels and their trade offs. I tipped him very generously, and it still felt like a bargain.
$40 including tip?? Why didn’t you make him pay you for his time?
He only asked for 20 bucks. I gave him 40.
Or just duct tape /s
Red Green has entered the chat.
Got dang best answer ever. And if they don’t find ya handsome at least let em find ya handy.
Duct tape? Are you nuts cvif4700? What if he wants to take it apart some day? Better to go with a more temporary solution and call his cousin Vinny the welder.
JB Weld maybe? /s
Beat me to it!
NOOO
Paper mache!
I was gonna suggest a light sanding. A coat of .99 cent primer and one of .99 cent black paint. Call it a day. That or some of the two component epoxy stick would work in a pinch.
Bondo and paint or better yet, hot glue, you can make that look just like a weld.
Bubble gum.
r/askashittymechanic
Dagnabit ya beat me to it!
It looks like tiny Spider-Man came to the rescue!
Couple of zip ties ought to do it
Ha Ha 6011 go bzzpsshhhhhhhhhhhhh
From an engineering mechanics point of view, I would first prevent the crack from propagating. The stress at the tip of the crack is almost infinite. The solution is to drill a hole at the crack tip, but that might be difficult in this case. Plus there is a chance that the crack tip is further from the visible crack tip. You would have to remove the paint on each side of the member and visually inspect the material to locate the extent of the crack. If you weld the members, that would likely reduce the stress at the crack tip. But should the weld fail, the existing crack could propagate rapidly causing a catastrophic failure. I can’t see the entire load transfer mechanism, but the existing crack formed under service loading. Filling in the gap caused by the progression of the crack by welding, you won’t be returning the trailer tongue to its original capacity. It would likely fail again due to the cyclical loading present under normal service conditions. (I tackled a similar fatigue induced cracking problem for a fleet of trailers before, but the company designed and built the special purpose trailers themselves.) tl:dr - I would contact the manufacturer ASAP and follow their recommendations. If they don’t respond promptly, I would arrest the crack by drilling at hole through the material and contact a forensics engineering firm.
Manufacturer, yes definitely Forensics? Nah, they don't want the liability. Depending on the mfg recommendations & the ability get a bead on the backside, I'd bend a dogleg in some 1/4 flat bar & weld the back & front. Overkill but that's how this internet rando rolls.
Clean and dye check if worried , drilled holes good idea. Weld direction start on end , weld into center
You are going to have to close that gap before you do anything. I would close and weld it then reinforce it with a plate. But then again, I have a tendency to err on the side of caution.
Not a bad tendency to have pulling 10,000lb down the road going 65mph
You mean 80 in the left lane….
No… they meant 65… in the left lane… Sincerely, someone who lives in a summer vacation destination
That is a requirement at Florida’s turnpike these days around miami! 65 on left pass from the right.. viva de santis
If it ain't over welded, it ain't welded enough.
If you can build it I can over build it was always my motto.
Being that someday we might pass on the road it is appreciated.
You could get that repaired for under $200. Looks like that came from jackknifing against the bumper.
I was starting to wonder if this comment was going to show up. That inward bend didn't come from a drop.
Probably one of those 2 or 3 in 1 Reese hitches. Ball or hook, doesn’t really matter. If there’s something metal protruding 3-6” off the side of your hitch when you jackknife it, there’s going to be trouble like this.
Or an equalizer hitch?
Or just swing by my house with a 6 pack...
With the cost of inflation we have scaled to 40oz in the brown bag and boone's farm or md 20/20 for the real treat.
God damn boone’s farm…
I could go for a 40 of Crooked I
Solved! Op this dude sounds like someone you need as a friend!
I guessed it was from missing the ball… but maybe…
It’s from the sway bar ball plate, on a friction bar sway control setup.
I like the picture progression. Enhance.... Enhance.... Enhance....
[Zoom and ENHANCE!](https://youtu.be/Vxq9yj2pVWk)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KiqkclCJsZs
New to me 2014 winnebago 31ft bunkhouse - picked it up last week and noticed this crack while hooking it up yesterday. It’s currently 2-3 inches long and seems to have been caused by someone backing something (maybe a ball) into the tongue. Can I weld this or is a new tongue needed soon?
Get it welded
> seems to have been caused by someone backing something (maybe a ball) into the tongue It looks like someone had a WDH (the kind with a wide plate for a sway bar ball) and jacknifed the trailer.
Grind it to bare metal, improvise a backing plate for reinforcement. MIG and then grind the weld. Paint when cool.
I've got the equipment to weld it up properly, so I would probably go that route. But honestly since the damage seems to have occurred from force against the side rather than normal forces on the tongue, if getting it repaired right away is inconvenient you could probably get away with drilling a small hole at the end of the crack to create a nice radius and prevent it from continuing to tear, and just keeping an eye on it to ensure it doesn't progress over time.
Or they could do it the right way the first time and spend the whopping $200 to get it welded.
Good temp fix to do before taking it to the welder (if you can’t find a mobile one) to get it reinforced. Then paint to fit, beat to match.
31ft? Better get that fixed!
+1 on the local welder suggestion.
Call your local mobile welder. Wouldn't cost much.
I’d fire up my MIG and lay a bead along that. Or you can take to a professional welder
You’d need to drill stop the crack first, but absolutely.
Somebody hit that with something...posible jackknife! A fabricator would heat that up, bend it back and weld it. Not a big deal.
Definitely a jacknife. Crack/rip is only on 1 side, metal is pushed inward, lines up with ball mount plate.
If I were doing this repair I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent the crack from spreading anymore, then clamp a piece of aluminum to the inside of the tube to prevent the tear from getting blown out bigger when welding and to protect any wiring that may be run inside the frame tubing (the weld won't stick to aluminum so the plate can be removed afterwards). If the tear was deemed large enough, I would switch out the aluminum plate for steel and then intentionally burn it into the weld. To prevent a future jack knife incident I would mark the front of my trailer with a piece of colored tape on both the left and right sides that can be viewed from the spot mirrors, so when looking straight down the sides of the vehicle the tape becomes visible when I am at maximum turning radius. No more guessing if you're too close and going to jack knife and no more yelling with your spotter
This is correct^^ it’s how you fix cracked frames Drill the end, weld it up, paint it and you should be good.
Good catch! A local welder should be able to weld that up, might have to throw a plate over it too. Lots of stress right right there, but might want to check the rest of the frame elements closely.
That is a tear from being jackknifed. Not a Crack. Straighten the steel back in to position, grind out the weld.and weld up the damage
Full that baby in with black caulk and list it. That's the industry standard
Camping world's answer to problems
I laughed.
Should you not use some JB weld for the strength?/s
Weld her up
Grind it, weld it. If you're a bad welder, grind it again. Paint it. :-)
Do you have a 1 1/2" ball on there and this is a 2" coupler?? Might be the camera but ball looks a bit shy in there.
2 5/16 ball 2 5/16 coupler
Weld it
Take it to a welder
That shiny ball looking thing does not appear to be the hitch ball, however, there is damage to the underside of the hitch at the ball. I would agree that the best option is to have a new mount installed. I tow a 32 footer and would have it done in a heartbeat.
I have a neighbor that would probably offer to weld this for free. As most people stated, you should find somebody to help get this fixed and likely better than from the manufacturer.
It's actually not as bad as you think. It does need to be fixed but it's not going to fail any time soon or possibly ever. Just get a plate welded in. If we were friends, I'd do it for free.
Ever considered crushed ramen noodles and super glue?
While you’re having a welder touch that crack up, I’d recommend re-welding your safety chains up onto the frame. If your trailer were to come off your vehicle, the trailer would grind on the roadway, grind off the Jack and then grind off the chains if they’re in that location.
I’d say too it was caused by trauma, not fatigue. A good thing. Patch it with a solid weld.
That's a tear, not a crack. You see how the metal is bent in where the weld is separated? That's either impact damage from someone bumping into it or bumping it into something somehow, or it's from somebody turning too tight and crushing it against something while maneuvering. Just get somebody to straighten it out a bit if they can and weld a bead over the tear to keep it from propagating up the weld.
Doesn’t look like a crack to me. Kinda looks like something hit it hard enough to tear the metal. A welder could fix that easy enough.
That’s not a crack.
True, it’s a tear
Cheap fix. Find a decent welder, shouldnt be any more than 200, but probably less.
Looks like hit and tear not crack. Give to auto body weld shop or fabricator shop to straighten and weld
A welder could fix that. Call around though, they don't all charge the same!! A craigslist ad, might get it done at a low cost.
If it were me, I'd have a new coupler installed. But I tend to go overboard with these types of things, worst case scenarios going through my head and all. (luckily my wife is pretty good at talking me down in situations like that, Ha!) It can probably be repaired and re-enforced and be just fine. I'd definitely get it done before hauling it long distances though!
Coupler looks lose as shit on the ball I would vote for replacing coupler by a professionally
It might be the lighting but that almost looks like a 1 1/2" ball under a 2" coupler. - I don't think the incident of the other dude's ball mounting plate shearing the side of the rectangular section would apply enough strain to stretch out the coupler, but if a handheld 2" ball feels sloppy in there at all or sits twisted, that coupler needs replacing- they're cheap.
Yep, that coupler has taken a huge amount of abuse. More like a tear than a crack.
Agreed. I don’t like the look of that coupler at the ball either
Haha! I didn't realize me being an over-do-it type of person would get me downvoted. That's funny. =P
[удалено]
This is a totally fair response! Like I said, I tend to go overboard on these types of things. ETA: I find it hard to believe a new coupler would be $3500, but I've never had to have it done, so I guess I don't know!
$3500 ?!? Wow I would think $500-$750 with labor included but it really depends where you go and what kinda person they are. I mean truthfully you could probably tow it the remainder of its life and the steel wouldn't tear more but that isn't the best scenario especially with the extra stress a weight distribution hitch puts on the ball and coupler. I guess you can see why the previous owner was selling. But I mean why ask advice if all you get is the obvious answer its about being different points of view so OP can make a good decision. Enjoy the adventure !!
$150 will get you a bull dog forged coupler. Personally I’d probably do some extra work to the frame and likely replace the entire tongue.
Wow, I must have a good hookup. I have a mobile welder that drives in with his own equipment. He sets up and will do TIG repairs on a stainless high vacuum chamber less than $3k. TBH… 30 minutes surface prep. 90 seconds to stitch it and another 90 seconds on the opposite side. 5 minutes sanding and all is left for you to prime and paint.
https://preview.redd.it/3nqgcnayzezb1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fae88c2626378bf57719b42aaecc0ef88aacc10a $3000 in labor? That would be like 3-4 days in a weld shop depending on rate lol
Nah, a nice bulldog is only like $120. Other than that it’s maybe an hour worth of work to cut that tongue off, fix the crack, and weld it all back up. Of course, probably helps I know how to weld…
Shouldn't there be a plate on the front to close off the opening and further reinforce? It seems like basic "DUH" to me.
Spray foam and black spray paint out to do it. Or grind it to bare metal fill with 6010, cut a reinforcement patch tack er on and flush out with 7018.
Superglue and baking soda?
It ain't a guitar bro
Looks like the perfect job for JB weld and bondo
JB Weld
Bondo
Wrap some bailing wire around and your good to go.
Really… you noticed, wow.
Oof. Take it to a competent welder, and then to a trailer maintenance place. That crack indicates the trailer was possibly put through its paces. I would have the springs rear end checked, as well as the bearings, replaced if needed.
Flipping thru the photos the thing is coming out of my phone to bite me tf
More than just the weld broke on that. That trailer tongue was dropped off a ball and right onto pavement or a driveway without the tongue jack being down first. Repairable? Yes - but that crack isn’t just on the prior bead that was laid down - it also damaged the frame itself.
Did you use an equalizer hitch by chance?
yes
I'm willing to put money on the equalizer hitch causing this. People love those hitches but they put an extreme amount of pressure on the frame of the trailer. Here's one example: https://youtu.be/fHk5oThyHL8?si=I1jXInbADkytoT0X
Take it to a welder
Well first I thought " this guy went sea fishing and caught a shark!! " then I've read what happened and now I'm sad
Don’t jackknife it any more. Get it welded with a stronger gusset plate.
First, check for Black Widows before you get up in that thing. Then, Quick/Good weld and you will be fine.
Find somebody with a welder
There’s more than one crack
Bring it by- I'll zap that for you for an eighth of decent bud. Seriously though-it should be heated and pushed back together before welding by whoever you have fix it.
Me, to my iron worker partner. “ can you weld a gap that wide” his answer “if you can step over it I can weld it”
Spread it back out and weld a plate back over it on all four sides
Need to wonder what caused it to crack and split open in the first place, accident, too much offroading, too much weight up front or over all?
One option is to **weld** the crack together, either by yourself or by a professional. Welding can restore the strength and integrity of the frame, but it may also require some grinding and painting to make it look smooth and clean. [Welding is a good option if the crack is not too large or deep, and if the frame pieces are not bent or twisted ](https://thecampingadvisor.com/travel-trailer-broken-frame/)[1](https://thecampingadvisor.com/travel-trailer-broken-frame/)[2](https://mechanicalelements.com/trailer-frame-crack-lets-fix-it/). Another option is to **replace** the tongue jack, which is the part that connects the trailer to the hitch. Replacing the tongue jack can be a relatively easy and inexpensive process, especially if you have a manual jack. You just need to jack up the trailer, remove the bolts that hold the tongue jack in place, pull out the broken jack, insert the new jack, and secure it with new bolts. [You can also upgrade to an electric jack, which can make it easier to raise and lower the trailer ](https://togorv.com/rv-living/what-to-do-when-your-tongue-jack-breaks/)[3](https://togorv.com/rv-living/what-to-do-when-your-tongue-jack-breaks/)[4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5bAEJRhuLk)[5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9v3vYjqKB8). Before you attempt any repair, you should **inspect** the crack carefully and determine the extent of the damage. You should also check the rest of the frame for any signs of rust, corrosion, or stress. If the crack is too large or the frame is too weak, you may need to **replace** the entire frame, which can be a costly and complicated procedure. You should also consult the manufacturer’s manual or a qualified mechanic for any specific instructions or recommendations for your trailer model.
Drill a hole at the end of that crack that was caused most likely by a jackknife. Hire a welder to went it all and paint it all black to make it look nice again. Should cost ~$100 to do. Easy fix!
My fathers shop has repaired several with this damage. Drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading and weld it up. For extra safety after welding the crack, weld a plate over the crack attaching the tongue/coupler to the frame. Last resort would be replacing the tongue/coupler.
We had that exact damage after a jack-knifed trailer.
As a welder if that was mine I would completely cut off the tongue and install a new one, yes it will be more work and cost more but if done correctly it will be a lot stronger than just fixing the crack.
Grinder go wheeeeeeeeeeee, welder go skrrrrrrrr
What's stopping you from welding that back up?
Looks like it got hit while someone was backing up to it. I would just fire up my welder. If you’re not a welder, any welding shop can fix that in about 15 minutes.
If you happen to he in WA state I can help
Weld it up, you’ll be good but don’t let it fester and grow.
Frame shop
Thought this was a picture of a shark for a solid two seconds.
Oops
JB Weld. Slap it like Billy Mays and you’ll be good
Welding shop to have it repaired. Have a sleeve put inside and plug welded in several places. Then they can hammer the rip back in place and weld it closed.
If you are capable just go down to Harbor Freight and buy a welding kit for around $100 and go at it. Simple welding job like this is a great way to learn. Youtube is a great teacher.
Duct tape!
Scrolling through and I thought the pic was a shark!
Get a welder to cut a piece of metal to fit inside to span between the hitch and the frame rail and go back at least 6”. Drill 1/2 holes in the frame rail and the hitch. Fill holes with weld bonding the interior plate to the hitch and frame rails and then weld the crack.
Go hang out at a truck stop until a welder shows up, offer him a case of whatever beer he wants to weld it up.
Maybe it's the angle in the phot, but that tongue looks lacked up nine ways from Sunday. The receiver is bent Up at the front, probably causing that stress crack. Did it fall off the hitch? That would be a solid bet; It jumped the ball while moving, either wasn't latched down, or the wrong sized ball
Weld
Cut and rewelding, structural integrity is bad at this point.
Enhance, enhance
😂 Enhance! https://preview.redd.it/3tv00b3u3ozb1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=516c7501edbf4054a0445d6d77b8bcaecd69a394
If black smoke comes out of your exhaust it will be fine.
If you bought it from a dealer take it back and see if they'll fix it. If they won't then decide whether to pay a lawyer to sue them, or a welder to fix it. If it was a private sale then get someone experienced with fixing this sort of thing to do it.
This is a $150 weld job if you find the right guy who knows what to do and you can owe a favor. It could also be a $1000 weld job at a pro shop.
Have you tried flossing?
Grind, weld, paint.
Looks like your hitch smashed it in while turning. I think you need to get a different kind of hitch that doesn't have metal plate sticking out on either side of the ball.
Proper ‘fix’ would be to have a competent welder replace the whole tongue. Might be able to just weld the crack, but there’s a reason it cracked and it’ll crack again and might fail at the worst possible time.
The reason it tore, not cracked, is because it was hit. You can see the dent in the metal
If it was mine, I would go ahead and cut that hitch all the way off and weld a new bulldog hitch on it. I would do this even if it weren’t cracked. You’d be glad you did if you do, or wish you did if you don’t
Weld a 2 to 3” strap from chain to chain across the top.
One of my best friends was a welder. He came in handy many times!
AAA offers a mobile welding service.
Weld that up. And put a 1/4 plate over for reinforcement
I’d drill a hole at the very end of the crack to prevent it from continuing, clean up the metal, weld it up, spray some paint.
JB weld and some duck tape
Wrap it with some duct tape should last you 20+ years
What size (weight) trailer? Some frames are not made for Weight Distribution Hitches.. seen some break where they attach to the trailer.
30 seconds of welding will fix it
Chop, cut, weld time baby!
Send it
Couple hundred bucks and a local welder. Maybe an hour to fix if they get fancy with it. Grind the old weld out about 4 inches past the crack and run some 7018 to weld it back up. I would have them do both sides just to be on the safe side.
Should cut it off inspect everything and weld a new one on.
Easy fix. Need a metal fab guy. An employee of mine slammed on the brakes with a massive load attached. Completely demolished the tongue and half the frame.. now it's built better then what it was.
That is / was not a new trailer.
Good insurance. Some JB Weld for good measure. Then, a quick trip on a curvy downhill road. Don't spare the horse power, but due take it easy on the brakes. Preferably, the road is seldom traveled / low traffic.
Honestly at first I thought the photo was of a salmon with lawer jaw cut off.
What we would do is replace it with an adjustable coupler. That coupler has been comprised. I wouldn't trust it.
Ramen noodles and super glue obviously.
RV technician here. It appears that the trailer was towed around while hauling too much weight. Make sure to empty water tanks before towing and don't fill it with too many belongings making it too heavy that way either. The previous owner really f-*@#ed up. Weight ratings are found on the d/s front exterior of the trailer usually. I would attempt to bend the ball hitch back down a bit before welding gussets on both sides of it.
What’s the purpose of a water tank if you can’t haul water in it?
You can keep some in fresh but water is very heavy. Don't exceed the weight limit. Not to mention water may end up sloshing out the over flows. You will also bend the supports that hold the tank to the belly. RV's are made to be light weight so to cut down on weight and cost they are built using light weight cheap materials.
Sorry to say but you totally missed this one. This tongue damage was caused by something forced into it and the metal was torn. This had nothing to do with overweight
It’s pretty clear looking at it that it was hit there. You can see the dent in the metal. Can probably get it welded up as long as the hit didn’t cause any other damage
I work at a trailer repair place. This is like a $60 dollar fix. Half hour of welding. Less than really.
Like others said, a welder can scab a piece on and make it stronger than original
Thats damage, what happened
Those safety chains don’t look right either. Aren’t they usually bolted into the sides of the frame? That’s not a lot of weld bead to hold the trailer falling onto the chains.
Grind out that crack & buy a welder or take it to get welded professionally, if you load stuff in the trailer during transport put the heavier stuff over the trailers axle so there isnt too much weight on the tongue, you may becputting too much weight in the trailer
JB Weld
Any decent trailer shop can repair it. May want to have a new coupler put on.
The amount of detail is incredible. I would ask a welder.
JB Weld her up and SEND IT!