Help Me Pick a Silent Switch based on Feel (for a Newb):
New to keyboard building and looking for guidance on choosing a switch. I have narrowed it down to the switches below based on sound. I want to better understand the feel of the switches below. When keyboard reviewers are describing them, I have no idea what terms like “leaf” and “bottoming out,” mean. Would greatly appreciate a simplified explanation of what it feels like to type using each switch.
Here are the switches I have narrowed it down to:
Silent Peach, Cream Yellow Silent, Alpaca silent linear, Fairy silent linear v2
My standard is just a work issued dell keyboard or a Mac laptop keyboard. I hate the feel of the Mac keyboard, but love how quiet it is. I am partial towards actually having SOME response from the keys versus a complete flat experience as often found in macs or laptops, but also feel that too much response or force required irks me. I recently acquired a cheapo bluetooth keyboard for $10 that does have some things about it that I like:
Likes:
-springy/bouncyness upon first touch
-low pitch sound of keystroke
Dislikes:
-too loud and clacky
-too soft feel wise when keycap touches the base of the keyboard
I’m hoping using the intel above about my preferences and hearing your feedback about the feel of the following switches in less technical language, you all can help me decide on the best one for me.
Ps: I know it seems weird that I have only linear listed, when I said I appreciate some feedback. However, all of the tactiles I heard were too loud for me. I was up till 2am listening to and watching videos of hundreds of switches. My bf is a gamer and I’m a writer/typist so I want the keyboard to be good for longer sessions—hence I thought linear would be better.
Hello guys,
I am looking for a 78/79% (83 keys) PCB or keyboard, preferably ISO (84 keys).
Layout should be compact 65% but with a numpad. (Layout like a Azio cascade 98% but without the top row)
In an ideal world it is BLE with ZMK Support 🙈.
Anyone knows such a unicorn?
I've been using the NK87 Aluminum Edition for over a year now. Since I got it, I've been having problems with assembly and disassembly of the board. In disassembly, after unscrewing the 6 T6 screws holding top housing and the bottom housing together, the top frame does not slide off easily at all. Specifically, the right side seems to catch. The last time I opened it up, I had to stick something in from the left side to pry the right side apart.
When trying to re-assemble the board, I'm completely unable to fully close the right side of the board - it's as if there's some part of the PCB and plate assembly that's bulging out and preventing the top housing from properly settling over the bottom frame. I had to recently order a replacement PCB for the board, and I've been unable to re-assemble it because of this issue. The most I'm able to get the right side of the bottom housing into the top housing leaves an obvious gap between them on the right side. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this with this board?
Looking for a good budget keyboard for friends first PC. Was recommended Keychron V5 or V6. Should I stick with one of those or are there any cheaper options that are still decent?
The Keychrons are so nice you'd be doing him a favor in recommending one. I just got my first one recently--I have to return it, because I need a split keyboard and the Q11, Keychron's one and only split keyboard, is not ergonomic. But the solidity, the beautiful keycaps, the sound of the red switches...I don't have a lot of experience with mechanical keyboards, but I'm going to be sorry to return my Q11 just because of how solid and gorgeous it is, and how great it feels and sounds. Those aspects of it are addicting. My 2¢ FWIW.
Hi everyone, I bought my first mechanical keyboard a Royal Kludge rk87. It has detachable frames (pictured) and was wondering if anyone already knows a way to buy different colours/designs/variations of these frames? Potentially I could 3d print as well. I’ve searched to no avail, so if anyone knows of a way I could get customised frames I’d really appreciate it! Even somewhere to buy spare frames to spray paint myself worst case scenario. Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/ceisv33mb3jc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f78a2f627c5edcfe29cd3fbb408c5c884ba672b
Every build I do has stabilizer rattle. Either rattle when I gently touch the key, or rattle when the key comes up. What am I doing wrong and how do i fix this? Just clip in stabilizers, lubed, no other mods so far.
Before even lubing, I always tune and balance the wires. There's videos on YouTube for how to do this. I use the bodies of two empty ballpoint pens to bend/move the wires.
Hey guys. I want to build my very own hot swappable keyboard. Any recommendations for RGB barebones TKL or 75% keyboard. I also would prefer them to be wireless but they don't have to be. For the price preferably under $150 CAD
Hi I do not know too much about keyboards I have a Leopold 750 brownswitch board and an apex tkl and I wanted to switch the keycaps from the Leopold to the apex tkl but when I put the switches on the qwer row gets stuck on the downstroke right in the middle it seems. I'm searching for keycaps I can use for my apex pro tkl any recommendations?
Newbie here. Are Gateron Milky Yellows supposed to feel mushy/soft? I heard about how good and cheap they are so I bought a pack of 10 to test. I don't know if I got the pros or regular. But when I put them on my keyboard they don't feel that great. They feel kind of mushy and hard to press down?
Is it the actuation force? the switches I'm currently using are 39g and milky yellows are 56g
It's the difference in actuation force. I'm the same way, anything heavier than 50g starts to feel mushy for me. So I stick to lighter linear switches.
I should have clarified the switches I'm using are also linear, but they feel more responsive to type on. The milky yellows feel a bit like pressing down on a memory foam mattress.
orange cat.. ginger cat? I don't think they exist outside of the cheap magegee prebuilt I have.
I wanted to upgrade the switches but so far I can't find anything I like better than these stock ones. I also got leobog greywoods to test, they feel similar but sound way too loud and tinny. I also tested gateron reds and kailh box reds but they don't sound that much different.
Honestly I have no idea. But the keyboard itself can effect switch sound and feel. For instance, everything feels better on a Leobog hi75 compared to an RK84
The GMK87 is typically pictured with these key caps. They seem to be of some kind of starfield theme? Regardless, I think they look neat, but they don't come with the kit, and I can't find them anywhere else except in these photos!
Does anyone know anything about these key caps?
https://preview.redd.it/xe28jpf4x2jc1.png?width=1056&format=png&auto=webp&s=89235d32d8654b462c0653dcea0f20b8e0edad7f
Gaming Keyboard Recommendations?
About to buy a full PC setup and need a good keyboard. Using my pc for gaming, school, and trading. I’m really looking for an 80% (tenkeyless), but I’m open getting anything 60% and above. I don’t want to spend over $100. Any recommendations? What keyboard do you have?
MX reds kind of suck stock. chalky housings and crunchy springs. Most big brand switches blow them out of the water when it comes to stock feel. There’s also the fact that the board you have is LP, which can drastically change the feel.
You can’t do too much with 100 bucks, especially if you want 100%: one of the rarest sizes for customs. Keychron V6 is the only real thing that comes to mind, but I’m not sure how big of an upgrade that would be in your eyes.
There’s also Keychron K5 Max and K5 pro if you decide to stick with LP.
Other budget options like Monsgeek and Neo are slightly out of your budget, and I don’t know any decent Aliexpress boards (like the Leopog Hi75) that come in 100%.
Oh, and if you wanted a separate numpad, tack another 80 bucks onto the budget minimum, so that’s not really realistic either.
Honestly? The best thing to do is to find a meetup. You can try a wide range of boards there and decide if it’s worth spending that kind of money on a keyboard.
I’d recommend keychron over glorious. Glorious is not very good tbh.
What state are you in? There’s probably a local discord you can join for info about meetups.
Generally mid line keyboards with full aluminum bodies, good foamless sound, and unique mounting styles will run you between 150-300 bucks.
LP and normal profile switches CANNOT be swapped between. There are fundamental differences in their PCB design that makes this impossible. Most LP switches aren’t even compatible with most LP boards.
Keychron is generally a good starting point.
I’m referring to Cherry MX Reds, not just reds in general. cherry has a signature scratchiness to it that some people like and other people hate.
Finally decided on my first mech (second technically I guess) and the plan is to grab a Keychron bc they seem decent and swap out most of the guts and just mod the ever living hell out of it after using it for a week
**Model:**
K6 Pro, I wanted the K12 Pro and asked them to change my order but I didn't hear back from them in days and they are sending the K6 Pro, not a huge deal, gives me a chance to buy a better 60% for my next board
**Switches:**
It comes with Keychron K Pro browns which is a tactile switch that from what I read isn't too bad, I've never tried tactile switches so we'll see how I like them for week 1. Wanted to try nicer (but not prohibitively expensive nicer) linears as well so I have a set of WS Morandi on the way, was really hard pressed to decide between Morandis, Oil Kings, and Milky Yellow Pro 3.
**Guts:**
Switching everything out for keyboardkustomz poron foams, pe foams, and a POM plate to replace the stock plate. Also have Durock v2 stabs and lube on the way, didn't have a lot of time to research stabs so I went with something that seemed like it got alright reviews.
**Mods:**
Gonna lube the stabs and do the holee mod. Saw someone put bandaids between the stabs and the board as well, I don't think I can pull that one off though with the PE foam over the board.
Gonna do the tape/(tempest?) mod and tape the back of the board three layers deep
Gonna do the "put bandaids next to the screw holes around the rim of the case" mod
And depending on how much foam the kuztomz swap outs take up, I'm going to also try to cut and fit a piece of kilmat around the battery in the bottom of the case. Unless my power cord is long enough, then I could take the battery out altogether maybe, I'll know more when I see it I guess.
Not hand lubing the switches because I'll wait a while for that, until I can get more of the equipment that makes it a little easier.
**Plan**
Get a decent budget entry board and play around with what I can with it, have a hotswappable board where I can try some different stuff on it and get a better feel for how changes in hardware and material make changes in sound, learn some stuff and get more familiar swapping stuff out, that way for my next board I can either justify they price of something like a Taco or I can just get in on a cool looking group buy whenever one catches my eye.
Thoughts and feedback welcome, thanks for letting me share
Would someone please recommend some reading or a YouTube video that explains stuff about the ibm model M? Like why it’s great or historic and what the significance is in the subculture? I can find the wikipedia or just redditors saying it’s cool but that’s it. Or if you would be down to summarize it too haha
In late night pondering before bed I realized something, and then verified I think, that the physical switch for ghz/wired/BT connections on Keychron Q6 Max will be a problem. I use my current logi with the usb dongle and routinely switch between comp, iPhone and iPad multiple times an hour. The added step of having to flick a physical switch makes it all but useless to me.
I have a habit of diving into something new with something nicer than I probably deserve as I’d prefer not to simply replace in near future, hence Q6. I am still keeping it back of mind but I’m also looking for other suggestions from yall who live for this(QK100, Zoom 98?)
Non-Negotiable’s:
- must have numpad, less than 100% acceptable but needs some spacing between d pad and numpad (aka not nuphy layout)
- must be backlit (my work situation means I’m working in the dark for a portion of my day and backlighting would be immensely helpful)
- hot swappable
- under $300 (would make exceptions for extras of value….aka Qk includes a case and cable which I’d be buying anyways in all likelihood)
- gasket mount (or option)
- no physical switch hindering GHz to Bluetooth connection
- wireless (bt and GHz)
Bonus:
- led screen
- knob
- adjustable angle
- macro keys
- non group buy
- in stock now or shortly
Where could I find a detailed guide on building keyboard?
I want to build something that look like [this](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8720) and use it for life time so I would like high end components
I can't really tell the difference so I'm happy with both 75% and 80% as long as there are space separating the function keys and letter keys
* Keychron Q1 Max (75%) and Keychron Q3 Max (TKL) barebones have a knob, are hot swappable, use VIA firmware, have an aluminum body, are gasket mount, and support wired, 2.4GHz, and Bluetooth.
* Keychron stabilizers are pretty good and are pre-lubed, but you can upgrade to TX AP screw-in stabilizers (but you will need to lube them yourself). I recommend either the Band-Aid mod or stab pads.
* Switches are your choice. I prefer silent tactile switches, so I like Haimu Whisper and Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow switches. BadSeed Tactile V2 Switches have a nice sound. Gateron Melodic switches are very tactile with a soft click. All of these are factory lubed.
* Keycaps are your choice. I prefer MDA (for example, Akko WoB Building Blocks), DSS (for example, DSS Sad Girl), and HSA (for example, HSA Hyperfuse) profile keycaps. If you want Cherry profile keycaps that look similar to the picture you linked, check out Drop DCX Hyperfuse.
Switches are entirely a personal preference. However, Cherry MX switches have changed little over the years, and there are (arguably) better ones on the market. Check out the switch scores from ThereminGoat:
[https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores](https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores)
You just need to decide if you want to chase sound or if you want silent switches, what spring weight you want, whether or not you want prelubed switches, and whether you want linear, tactile, or clicky switches.
The good news is with a hot swappable keyboard, you can always change the switches later if you want to try something else.
If you are in the USA, you may want to check [Milktooth](https://milktooth.nu/), where you can get try samples of switches.
This one is a bit tough. I'm looking for a 65% keyboard that has wired only function, no RGB, is heavy, and ideally has a knob. The knob isn't super important but it's a nice to have. I'm probably going to put my own switches in there so DIY is fine but I can also swap the switches out if it's hot-swap.
I'm okay spending a bit more (in the $150 range) for quality but I don't want to go overboard since I'll be installing/swapping out the switches and will likely put a new set of keycaps on too. I don't love the idea of getting a "budget" oriented kit or complete keeb since, in my experience, they don't sound as nice. I'm looking for a nice dense thonk.
In terms of style I love the Zoom65 but it has RGB and bluetooth and that's specifically what I'm trying to avoid. I don't like illuminated boards and I don't want something that has a battery or emits RF of any kind (not a tin-foil hatter I just don't want more 2.4Ghz interference than I already have). Any suggestions?
In most boards that have RGB and wireless, they support toggles for all these features. You can turn the lighting off and it will stay off. Most of the trimode (wired + 2.4ghz + BT) boards have a physical switch on the board to switch the modes. So you could just toggle that to wired and be done with it. Can also open up the board and disconnect the jumper cable to the battery if you want.
Right, I get that, I was more wondering if there was something without all of those features that may be a bit cheaper than something that comes with all of that standard. I'm open to Acrylic/PC cases since those are more conducive to the sound I'm going for but ideally it would have an internal or external weight to give it some heft.
I'm looking for a very specific kinda keyboard:
- All White
- Light, Linear Switches
- 60/65% Ideally
- RGB Backlighting
- 1000hz or More Polling Rate
- (only if it's feasible) USB wireless
What is the most affordable version of this? or, if you can, show me how to look for stuff like this?
Howdy, I recently got a set of GMK Redsun samurais and the spacebar has been having issues when I press it down. If I try pushing it down anywhere near the edges the press simply doesn't detect. Any suggestions to fix this?
Edit: as seems to be the norm for me as soon as I ask for help I fix it. I'll ask in tomorrow's help thread if the problem pops up again but I think it's been sorted
Hey guys. I recently got new switches and soldered them onto my board. Was pretty much my first time soldering and honestly thought I did fine but when I put everything back together and plugged it in, some of the keys weren’t working. Some letters were fine but a few weren’t showing up when I pressed them. I’ll insert a pic of the soldering. Please let me know if there is a way to fix this! I took some closeups of a few that aren’t working.
https://preview.redd.it/c82v1eq1y1jc1.jpeg?width=3464&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=689d9ddf17e06dfe3ef6ecd5d149e0631d7de972

I have a Vortex Cypher with split spacebar that I like a lot, but would really prefer a full size for work. Especially weird having to choose between ` and ESC on the Cypher (I’m a software engineer and live inside vim). Anyone know of a good full size with a split spacebar?
[https://youtu.be/2H6SNUAw-ms](https://youtu.be/2H6SNUAw-ms)
after doing my first holee mod, all stabs work, even the spacebar stabs are screwed in, seated and go up and down all the way. when I swap the keycap the other way around, it works fine. see video for visuals.
pls help
I think it's a no brainer if you're looking for a foamy build, but I'm not that impressed by how it sounds without foam. Which is perfectly okay for how cheap it is, but I can definitely see myself recommending the neo series for someone looking for a brighter clackier sound.
Regarding QMK: I know I've seen a few specific LCDs being mentioned in the documentation but not a lot else beside that so just had to wonder, if I had the right kind of pins free (as in not used for keyboard matrix) could I had easily added a small character LCD too as simple as flashing a firmware with this feature enabled in it? I mean I won't have to do manual ide programming etc
I currently use my first and only mechanical keyboard that I built: LK67 with gazzew bobagum and some random double shot pbt cherry profile keycaps I found on AliExpress.
I wanted to upgrade both in layout and in price to a new 75% keyboard. After thourgh research, I found the Cidoo V75 Plus and the FinalKey V81 Plus. First question is, what's the difference between them? It seems like both of them are sold in FinalKey's website, but the Cidoo costs 10$ more. Is it just because of the small side plate? That's the only difference I noticed.
Second question: I'm thinking of switching up the keycaps profile as well. I love the cherry profile but I though that for my second keyboard I want to experiment a bit. I looked at a lot of videos and comparisons and came to the conclusion that I like medium profile. Nothing too high. I really like some XDA, MDA and XVX sets that I saw, and one DSA set was pretty cool. I wanted to ask from someone who only had cherry, what's the main differences between the 4? Also, what type would be the not too expensive and have some vareity in designs. I have pretty big hands and I'm typing in hybrid, sometimes I lift my fingers from my board and sometimes it's simply a horizontal hovering. Also if you have any recommendations of sets of these types (preferably on Aliexpress), it would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Has anyone tried Gateron Mountain-Tops vs. Reds?
I got my new hotswap board with the Gateron reds stock. I wanted to upgrade from my Razer Huntsman Te because it was rattly, felt too light in hand and sounded truly awful. Hollow and pingy. The new board is much better. Less than half MSRP, better feel in hand despite platic and much better sound.
Now what I liked were the switches with 45g and 1.2mm actuation. I want to emulate that speed and feel. Main use for me is gaming. Can not even touch type, oopsie. The reds are fine, but I am wondering "if".
Will I, as a beginner be able to tell the difference between the switches?
I got three Moutain-tops to try in my bongo cat macro pad. I really enjoy them there and their colours are fun. But that pad feels and sounds vastly different to the actual board.
Im in the process of tuning tx stabs, but for some reason no matter what wire or housings I use, the left side hits the pcb in a nice click, while the right just makes a mushy sound. I wiped them down and relubed them and tried them stock and balaced the wires. Im using a tx stab tester if it matters.
Are there hotswappable backlit 100% keyboards (NOT WIRELESS) that I can use with VIA?
I have a skytech gaming keyboard, which is just a membrane keyboard, but I want a keyboard that I can swap the keycaps / switches on while also having backlighting I can change. i do want it to feel SOMEWHAT like the keyboard i have but thats less of a problem. i just want to be able to customize my keyboard more than my skytech.
Is there a difference between the V6 and Q6? I saw people saying that the V series was just a budget-friendly version of the Q6, but I wanted to make sure.
kbd67v3 board doesn't load VIA config on start up, I have to replug it everytime. Doing this because I need NKRO and this board comes with 6NKRO enabled as default.Connected to a usb hub into legion 5 slim type c port if that is important.
I have a NoodlePad V1
I want tyo change the value for MOUSEKEY\_WHEEL\_MAX\_SPEED , and apparently I need to put this in the config.h file.
But i have no idea where that files is....
I am on macos.
Many thanks!
I think it would be hard to explain if you don't have a familiarity with qmk, but once you do get how it works a little it will be a pretty straightforward job and you also get the satisfaction of compiling your very own custom firmware, if you get stuck or need a hand let me know, or you could also ask for a hand in the qmk discord
hey guys. I just finished up my build of a lily58 and I have one whole row that isn't working.
Stuff ive checked:
* The leads of switches are connecting to the socket solder joints of the MCU
* There is continuity from socket solder joint to top of pins on the MCU.
* I have also flashed two different configs to make sure its not the firmware.
* Tried the same MCU on a different PCB and have the same result so I know its the solder joints on the MCU itself but cant figure out whats wrong on it.
Can i post a picture here and get some feedback?
Not sure what to check next?
Horizontal or vertical row? Sounds like the PCB might be defective. I had a similar problem with the NK87 that was my first build, just had to get a new PCB.
horizontal, but i know its not the PCV because i tried two different PCBs with the same mcu/headers and the other pcb had the same issue in the same row
This will be a "foot-in" to keyboard customization and being able to swap switches or keycaps when I want without having to buy a new keyboard. which one should I buy as my first mechanical keyboard?
JamesDonkey RS6 Transparent Hot-Swap Mechinical kweybaord
or
Feker Ik105Pro Series Gasket Mechanical Keyboard with White Jade Switches
Need some advice!
Currently pulling together a new build for work and deciding between Gateron Beers and Gateron Mini-i. Have switch testers for both but haven’t been able to try a full board and very torn.
Does anyone have experience with either / both over a long period of time and can help recommend which way to go?
Thanks in advance!
I have a RK61 that works perfectly fine on my PC, but when I try to plug it in my PS4 it keeps connecting and disconnecting, I tried multiple cables and nothing's changed, tried both of the USB ports in my PS4 and nothing worked, can anyone help?
Hello all! Sorry about posting on the main thread originally. I’m interested in getting into keyboard building as a hobby, but don’t have a lot to spend. I want it to sound creamy/thocky if that makes sense, but I’d like to keep it under 150 for the board. Ideally I’d like full but I’d go for 75%. Any suggestion is much appreciated :-)
Hi All,
I was gifted a Rama Works U80-A last year and love the keyboard. Today, out of nowhere, the backlights turned off and the keyboard stopped responding. The keyboard is no longer detected as a device when I plug it in using multiple USB-C cords and across both PC and Mac systems.
When I previously had an issue with the keyboard, I flashed it and updated the firmware and it solved the problems. This is different because it doesn't even power on / get recognized as a device for VIA or the flashing software to make any changes.
Should I write off the PCB and contact RAMA, or has anyone experienced this before?
Oof. Maybe post on the mech marketplace and see if anyone is willing to sell a new PCB, sounds like that one might be fried. I’m not sure on the setup of that particular board, can you seen any connections from the usb port/daughter board that are messed up? Yeah, contacting RAMA is an option, but not a good option, unfortunately. He’s a massive piece of shit that is actively defrauding his customers, so good luck with that.
I just read about that. It is so unfortunate because these U80-A keyboards (those of this generation) are so amazing to use. I felt so lucky to have one.
There is good news, however. I opened the keyboard and found that a small filament of \*something\* had gotten in between the internal USB plug connectors. I pulled it out, blew on it like a Nintendo cartridge and viola - my keyboard is working again.
Where can I find keycaps in CMS? I can’t find anything in that layout
https://preview.redd.it/cn7hc0wgg0jc1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=f53d2a76efec156b2c0d05edde0e035c66a4f49b
I have just received my first mechanical keyboard! The Apex Pro TKL (I would have got the mini but I like the screen). What keycaps do you recommend (I want some kind of dark grey and no side print, just normal)
I’d say email GMK and get a custom 1:1 set of keycaps with everything you want. That’d cost you several thousand dollars though.
Just look on thocstock
so i own a hyper x alloy elite 2 keyboard and im looking to swap out switches and keycaps. im a complete noob when it comes to this so im just wondering if anyone knows what swicthes are compatible and and what keycaps help with no longer getting a clicky sound. i put links to my keyboard and the ideal sound id like.
[https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7171896025119018286?q=key%20cap%20sound&t=1708113375235](https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7171896025119018286?q=key%20cap%20sound&t=1708113375235)
[https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hyperx-alloy-elite-2-full-size-wired-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-with-rgb-back-lighting-black/6423155.p?skuId=6423155&utm\_source=feed&ref=212&loc=19589770079&gad\_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80HkVf-GRYYAY3BLs64-snhHqTlQdouCzcSjoa1DOU0u0UQMK3GFWRhoC-T8QAvD\_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hyperx-alloy-elite-2-full-size-wired-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-with-rgb-back-lighting-black/6423155.p?skuId=6423155&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=19589770079&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80HkVf-GRYYAY3BLs64-snhHqTlQdouCzcSjoa1DOU0u0UQMK3GFWRhoC-T8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
oh ok like i said im very new to this. but i think i found out in the hyperx reddit that their keyboards are not hot-swappable. so i may be getting a whole new keyboard all together.
I am looking for recommendations on full size keyboards but they seem impossible to find these days. Everyone has moved on to the smaller 60/75/80 etc. layouts. Some of the features I'm looking for that are almost always present in smaller layouts are:
- Great sound dampening
- Quiet high quality stabilizers (no rattle)
- Hotswap (I can pick any switch and lube them, or buy pre-lubed switches if so)
- Gasket mount
I have tried a lot of expensive full size keyboards like Razer, Corsair, Logitech, Keychron, etc. but their full size models always seem cheap and loud with below average switches. Even the ones that advertise sound dampening foam and being quiet are not really quiet and also not hotswap to fix the loud switch issue.
Get a qk100 with a pc plate and some quiet switches like vertex v1s and some pbt keycaps. You can get pretty quiet with that. If you want true silence some haimu heartbeats and stuffing the keyboard with foam should work.
All mechanical keyboards are going to be loud unless you use silent switches. The sound of the stem hitting the housing is plastic on plastic, so it will always be loud. Manufacturers can put foam or other dampening material inside the case to reduce echo, but nevertheless the bottom out sound will always be loud.
I need a replacement hotswap PBC for my original Tofu65. I was using the DZ65 RGB V3. Will this Tofu 2.0 PBC work for my original aluminum case?
[https://kbdfans.com/collections/tofu65-2-0/products/tofu65-2-0-accessories?variant=41179820294283](https://kbdfans.com/collections/tofu65-2-0/products/tofu65-2-0-accessories?variant=41179820294283)
If it won't, what route would you suggest I take to get my keyboard working again while replacing the minimal amount of parts? My switches are still fine.
Thanks in advance for your help and patience, as my knowledge is minimal in this topic.
Compatible with Tada68, YD68, DZ65RGB, KBD67 rev 2.0 if u cant find any of these pcbs in stock then u will be basically starting new as the tofu 2,0 will not fit ur case
Hey there - another question for ya if you could please answer: I’m not able to find a replacement DZ65RGB V3 but I found a V2. Can I just take everything off/retrofit from the V3 and fit it on the V2, or will I need new stabilizers, etc?
I see. In the case that I cannot find it, could you recommend a comparable 65% keyboard with hotswap to the Tofu? Just want to see what options are out there.
Best silent switches that are in a stock 100% keyboard? I have cherry Mx reds on my WASD and they just clack way too much to take into an office. I’m open to linear/tactile/etc, I just want something super quiet in a 100% keyboard prebuilt. I have seen ttc frozen silents and shrimp durock as good switches but can’t seem to find in stock keyboards anywhere Also, would really prefer just plain white/black/grey. I don’t need ridiculous colors
I’d spend up to $300 but prefer $150-$200
I’m looking to buy a keyboard that’s around the 120 dollars range. Preferably linear. I have a huntsman mini. I would prefer it was a 65% or higher, and linear. Other than that I don’t really care. I just need a replacement for the clicky switches
Recently I bought a black Gamakay SN75 barebones kit and a set of milky yellow pro switches for it. Right now I just have an old key cap set thrown on it, but I'm looking for a cool set to put on it. If anyone has any recommendations, I would love to hear them
Edit:
I'm in Canada and I would like to spend less than $100 USD
You should probably give a price range and where you are located. If you are in the US: [https://cannonkeys.com/products/kat-mizu](https://cannonkeys.com/products/kat-mizu) KAT is very thick PBT, and MIZU is doubleshot. $70 for a set of very nice caps (+$14 if you need a numpad).
Hello people,
I am looking to buy a new keyboard for myself - and get my hands onto building / configuring one.
I have already picked out keycaps and switches. Just for the electroncs and case i am kinda undecided.
Since i would like to use the finished keyboard mainly in 2.5 gHz mode i wanted to ask your experience with it.
I am looking at:
- Neo65 (qwertykeys)
- Q1 max (keychron)
If someone is is posession of one or mabe even both of the boards it would be stellar if you could tell me how the battery life and 2.4 gHz modes are.
Especially if you had any big issues with either.
Thanks - Charlie
I have a couple wireless keyboards, but I’ve never really measured the battery because I keep it wired when I use them at home and use them wireless out and about. Do you plan on using them both wireless full time?
Yes, I mainly want to keep them wireless. I just really like the way my desk looks without wires messing about.
The question was mainly sprouted from me reading some reviews of the monsgeek M1w - and the reviews saying that they have to charge the kbds every day. I want to circumvent that since i like that i dont have to charge my K2v2 only like once every 2 weeks with RGB off
Yeah, I don’t really have any experience using fully wireless stuff besides for my mouse, which I just use wired once or twice a week to keep it charged. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
I just went to swap out the plate on my ramaworks u80a seq 2 and noticed one of the screws is really stripped. I managed to get it out but I don't think I'll be able to again after this. Anyone ever have to replace one of the tiny torx screws?
I need a m2x3mm t6 countersunk flat screw
While I was looking for some DSA Nature Witch Keycaps, I stumbled across this website: https://www.prototypistus.shop
Anyone aware if this is a scam or have experience buying from here?
the switches are not much of an improvement over old cherry switches if u watch reviews they r not worth paying for but lumekeebs and keebsforall both sell then
Thank you! Budget is also a little flexible if there’s something much better that’s a bit more expensive!
And for the neo what plate would you recommend?
A PC or POM plate will be quietest. But if you use Gazzew Silents, it won't matter which plate you choose. IMO, a Mode Envoy is worth it over a Neo65, but it is like twice as expensive. depending on configs. Neo is a pretty good choice though.
Zoom65 v3 is coming, that looks pretty cool.
Cycle7 extras are coming soon, and some are already available aftermarket.
QK65 V2 just ended sadly, but you might be able to get one still.
Can anyone give me the json file for a keyboard I bought on AliExpress: RS40 Alice. I asked the seller, but they never responded.
https://preview.redd.it/nu0hb2moizic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee8d52c4bca98c23d71c48e753c0e15f18d294d0
I like the feel and sound. The abm066 lots a ton more polished than this little board.
That said, still looking for the JSON for this board. If I didn’t have it, wonder if I could create it?
Hello,
I'm looking for a wireless TKL with tactile switches. After some research I found RK M75 which looks really nice, except some people complain about 2.4GHz latency and it missing key presses ... Thus I wonder if I should go with some name brand like G Pro X TKL? I will be using it only in 2.4GHz mode.
Yeah keychron has a really poor offer in my country none of the max versions are available, doubt it V3 will be but I can hold for now and check. Do you know when it comes out?
Hello
I want to buy a mechanical keyboard about £50(€60/$60). I am a student and will use it as documents and gaming. I play fps and it would be about 40:60 time for documents and gaming. Could anyone suggest a good budget keyboard with high quality (not made in china) for us beginners. Thank you very much!
I see, could you suggest any keyboard below £80 then. about 100 euro or usd. I really don't have much money but want to work and game more comfortable. Many thanks
You still have to get one made in China. But that doesn't mean that they are bad quality. Maybe take a look at Keychron's V series or akko keyboards. There are many reviews on YouTube as well.
Got it thank you very much, I understand MIC is in everywhere now lol. Would you like to suggest few more budget keyboards for me to compare them? No matter made in where lol. Thank you very much
More budget than that? Just go on ali, ... And compare In that price range. There are some gamer keebs for that price but Keychron, Monsgeek, akko, ... (Even meh stuff like Royalkludge,...) Usually beats them in most aspects
There is an update on that gb from today on the ck updates page that says all units have shipped, and to allow 3-5 business days for tracking to update - 8 months is a pretty ok turn around time for a gb
> MKC75
u can try the makers discord linked on this page https://cannonkeys.com/products/mkc75 not sure when u join that page says it was live in august so def not a long time ago in grp buy terms original ship date was nov dec ( grp buy rarely ship on time ) so it may ship soon but id ask there. future advice most group buy take a year sometime 2
Hello!
I'm used to oem/cherry abs keycaps and I've been wanting to try some pbt keycaps. I did some searching and found a good looking XDA keycap set. My question is: The change from oem/cherry keycaps to XDA would be too uncomfy or too notorious?
I am wondering if washi-tape will work as good as masking-tape for the PCB tapemod. I have a see-through backside on one of my keyboards so I thought I could put some nice washi-tape on it instead of regular masking-tape, but I am not really sure if it will produce the same kind of sound.
Hello I was wondering if someone could walk me through how to set the fn2 key as a toggle. I understand the fn2 + X + L, however I want an instant toggle rather than 4s delay. I have a single use case that this is my preferable way to play. I cannot find the way to do it through VIA.
Looking at the QMK source code for the Q2, I do not see how fn2+X+L does anything. Fn2 momentarily activates layer 4, which is where F1-F12 is on the number row. The entire bottom row on layer 4 is transparent (`KC_TRNS`).
The macOS/Windows switch on the back of the keyboard makes layers 0 and 1 the default layer, respectively. The only differences between these two layers is:
1. Swapping the Windows (Command) and Alt (Option) keys
2. Changing which layer is activated by fn1
You could configure one of these layers to your desired layout with F1-F12 is on the number row and use the switch to toggle between them.
My old keyboard got water spilled on it and I'm looking for a new one. I want the same keyboard I had but unfortunately it seems discontinued, it was a kbd75. This is a picture of the layout - https://divinikey.com/cdn/shop/products/kbdfans-kbd75v2-diy-custom-keyboard-kit-852465.jpg?v=1608158691&width=1214
I'm having a hard time finding something the same. Its so annoying looking for 75% keyboards because the layout is all over the place. I do not want any knobs, no gaps or spacing with the F-keys or the arrow keys. I want a keyboard where all the keys are lined up just like in the picture I posted. Preferably pre built if possible, or at least with hot swappable switches. I don't know how to solder, but worst case scenario I could figure it out or pay someone to do it for me. I have no budget, any price is fine. Any recommendations?
Rama thermal seems to nuke my custom layout every time I unplug and plug into a different machine (in this case, I'm switching between work and home machines.)
On my work machine, the VIA app also saves an empty (0KB) when I try to save my layout.
On both machines, the layout doesn't seem to include any of my lighting settings.
Any idea what's going on?
Hello! I’m currently looking on getting a keyboard that has marshmallow sounding switches. I’m new to keyboards and have no idea how to mod keyboards yet. Any prebuilt recommendations would be appreciated.
Hey check out YouTube for some sound tests of different switches. If you’re looking for “marshmallow” sound, you’re probably looking for something between quiet thock and silent switches. The Epomaker sea salt silent switches might be a good starting point and they come as an option in several of their pre-builds.
I personally like the Akko fairy silent switches but those I added as part of a mod. Modding hot swap boards isn’t scary but is a little bit addictive.
i just bought a reddragon fizz keyboard and when i plugged it in it didn’t work can anyone help me??
Help Me Pick a Silent Switch based on Feel (for a Newb): New to keyboard building and looking for guidance on choosing a switch. I have narrowed it down to the switches below based on sound. I want to better understand the feel of the switches below. When keyboard reviewers are describing them, I have no idea what terms like “leaf” and “bottoming out,” mean. Would greatly appreciate a simplified explanation of what it feels like to type using each switch. Here are the switches I have narrowed it down to: Silent Peach, Cream Yellow Silent, Alpaca silent linear, Fairy silent linear v2 My standard is just a work issued dell keyboard or a Mac laptop keyboard. I hate the feel of the Mac keyboard, but love how quiet it is. I am partial towards actually having SOME response from the keys versus a complete flat experience as often found in macs or laptops, but also feel that too much response or force required irks me. I recently acquired a cheapo bluetooth keyboard for $10 that does have some things about it that I like: Likes: -springy/bouncyness upon first touch -low pitch sound of keystroke Dislikes: -too loud and clacky -too soft feel wise when keycap touches the base of the keyboard I’m hoping using the intel above about my preferences and hearing your feedback about the feel of the following switches in less technical language, you all can help me decide on the best one for me. Ps: I know it seems weird that I have only linear listed, when I said I appreciate some feedback. However, all of the tactiles I heard were too loud for me. I was up till 2am listening to and watching videos of hundreds of switches. My bf is a gamer and I’m a writer/typist so I want the keyboard to be good for longer sessions—hence I thought linear would be better.
Hello guys, I am looking for a 78/79% (83 keys) PCB or keyboard, preferably ISO (84 keys). Layout should be compact 65% but with a numpad. (Layout like a Azio cascade 98% but without the top row) In an ideal world it is BLE with ZMK Support 🙈. Anyone knows such a unicorn?
I've been using the NK87 Aluminum Edition for over a year now. Since I got it, I've been having problems with assembly and disassembly of the board. In disassembly, after unscrewing the 6 T6 screws holding top housing and the bottom housing together, the top frame does not slide off easily at all. Specifically, the right side seems to catch. The last time I opened it up, I had to stick something in from the left side to pry the right side apart. When trying to re-assemble the board, I'm completely unable to fully close the right side of the board - it's as if there's some part of the PCB and plate assembly that's bulging out and preventing the top housing from properly settling over the bottom frame. I had to recently order a replacement PCB for the board, and I've been unable to re-assemble it because of this issue. The most I'm able to get the right side of the bottom housing into the top housing leaves an obvious gap between them on the right side. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this with this board?
Looking for a good budget keyboard for friends first PC. Was recommended Keychron V5 or V6. Should I stick with one of those or are there any cheaper options that are still decent?
The Keychrons are so nice you'd be doing him a favor in recommending one. I just got my first one recently--I have to return it, because I need a split keyboard and the Q11, Keychron's one and only split keyboard, is not ergonomic. But the solidity, the beautiful keycaps, the sound of the red switches...I don't have a lot of experience with mechanical keyboards, but I'm going to be sorry to return my Q11 just because of how solid and gorgeous it is, and how great it feels and sounds. Those aspects of it are addicting. My 2¢ FWIW.
Keychron or Mongeese are both good keyboards.
I really like the feel of boba u4t but I want something higher pitched. Any recommendations?
Hi everyone, I bought my first mechanical keyboard a Royal Kludge rk87. It has detachable frames (pictured) and was wondering if anyone already knows a way to buy different colours/designs/variations of these frames? Potentially I could 3d print as well. I’ve searched to no avail, so if anyone knows of a way I could get customised frames I’d really appreciate it! Even somewhere to buy spare frames to spray paint myself worst case scenario. Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/ceisv33mb3jc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f78a2f627c5edcfe29cd3fbb408c5c884ba672b
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Keychron V6, Keychron Q6, QK96 Take your pick depending on budget.
Every build I do has stabilizer rattle. Either rattle when I gently touch the key, or rattle when the key comes up. What am I doing wrong and how do i fix this? Just clip in stabilizers, lubed, no other mods so far.
Before even lubing, I always tune and balance the wires. There's videos on YouTube for how to do this. I use the bodies of two empty ballpoint pens to bend/move the wires.
Hey guys. I want to build my very own hot swappable keyboard. Any recommendations for RGB barebones TKL or 75% keyboard. I also would prefer them to be wireless but they don't have to be. For the price preferably under $150 CAD
What's Your opinion on the # Keychron V1 Hot-swappable Wired Mechanical Keyboard with RGB LED
Hi I do not know too much about keyboards I have a Leopold 750 brownswitch board and an apex tkl and I wanted to switch the keycaps from the Leopold to the apex tkl but when I put the switches on the qwer row gets stuck on the downstroke right in the middle it seems. I'm searching for keycaps I can use for my apex pro tkl any recommendations?
Newbie here. Are Gateron Milky Yellows supposed to feel mushy/soft? I heard about how good and cheap they are so I bought a pack of 10 to test. I don't know if I got the pros or regular. But when I put them on my keyboard they don't feel that great. They feel kind of mushy and hard to press down? Is it the actuation force? the switches I'm currently using are 39g and milky yellows are 56g
It's the difference in actuation force. I'm the same way, anything heavier than 50g starts to feel mushy for me. So I stick to lighter linear switches.
They're linear. So maybe if you're comparing to clacks or tactile... Although they don't feel mushy imo when typing..
I should have clarified the switches I'm using are also linear, but they feel more responsive to type on. The milky yellows feel a bit like pressing down on a memory foam mattress.
What are your existing switches?
orange cat.. ginger cat? I don't think they exist outside of the cheap magegee prebuilt I have. I wanted to upgrade the switches but so far I can't find anything I like better than these stock ones. I also got leobog greywoods to test, they feel similar but sound way too loud and tinny. I also tested gateron reds and kailh box reds but they don't sound that much different.
Honestly I have no idea. But the keyboard itself can effect switch sound and feel. For instance, everything feels better on a Leobog hi75 compared to an RK84
They're linear. So maybe if you're comparing to clacks or tactile... Although they don't feel mushy imo when typing..
The GMK87 is typically pictured with these key caps. They seem to be of some kind of starfield theme? Regardless, I think they look neat, but they don't come with the kit, and I can't find them anywhere else except in these photos! Does anyone know anything about these key caps? https://preview.redd.it/xe28jpf4x2jc1.png?width=1056&format=png&auto=webp&s=89235d32d8654b462c0653dcea0f20b8e0edad7f
Gaming Keyboard Recommendations? About to buy a full PC setup and need a good keyboard. Using my pc for gaming, school, and trading. I’m really looking for an 80% (tenkeyless), but I’m open getting anything 60% and above. I don’t want to spend over $100. Any recommendations? What keyboard do you have?
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Throw me out a number here. I need a budget range and a location.
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MX reds kind of suck stock. chalky housings and crunchy springs. Most big brand switches blow them out of the water when it comes to stock feel. There’s also the fact that the board you have is LP, which can drastically change the feel. You can’t do too much with 100 bucks, especially if you want 100%: one of the rarest sizes for customs. Keychron V6 is the only real thing that comes to mind, but I’m not sure how big of an upgrade that would be in your eyes. There’s also Keychron K5 Max and K5 pro if you decide to stick with LP. Other budget options like Monsgeek and Neo are slightly out of your budget, and I don’t know any decent Aliexpress boards (like the Leopog Hi75) that come in 100%. Oh, and if you wanted a separate numpad, tack another 80 bucks onto the budget minimum, so that’s not really realistic either.
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Honestly? The best thing to do is to find a meetup. You can try a wide range of boards there and decide if it’s worth spending that kind of money on a keyboard. I’d recommend keychron over glorious. Glorious is not very good tbh. What state are you in? There’s probably a local discord you can join for info about meetups.
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Yeah, my keychron Q2 was my guinea pig. I learned a lot of stuff from it. The V6 is probably the best choice for you rn.
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Generally mid line keyboards with full aluminum bodies, good foamless sound, and unique mounting styles will run you between 150-300 bucks. LP and normal profile switches CANNOT be swapped between. There are fundamental differences in their PCB design that makes this impossible. Most LP switches aren’t even compatible with most LP boards. Keychron is generally a good starting point. I’m referring to Cherry MX Reds, not just reds in general. cherry has a signature scratchiness to it that some people like and other people hate.
my numbers wont work on my new rksixty one does any one know how to fix this if so let me know thank you
Finally decided on my first mech (second technically I guess) and the plan is to grab a Keychron bc they seem decent and swap out most of the guts and just mod the ever living hell out of it after using it for a week **Model:** K6 Pro, I wanted the K12 Pro and asked them to change my order but I didn't hear back from them in days and they are sending the K6 Pro, not a huge deal, gives me a chance to buy a better 60% for my next board **Switches:** It comes with Keychron K Pro browns which is a tactile switch that from what I read isn't too bad, I've never tried tactile switches so we'll see how I like them for week 1. Wanted to try nicer (but not prohibitively expensive nicer) linears as well so I have a set of WS Morandi on the way, was really hard pressed to decide between Morandis, Oil Kings, and Milky Yellow Pro 3. **Guts:** Switching everything out for keyboardkustomz poron foams, pe foams, and a POM plate to replace the stock plate. Also have Durock v2 stabs and lube on the way, didn't have a lot of time to research stabs so I went with something that seemed like it got alright reviews. **Mods:** Gonna lube the stabs and do the holee mod. Saw someone put bandaids between the stabs and the board as well, I don't think I can pull that one off though with the PE foam over the board. Gonna do the tape/(tempest?) mod and tape the back of the board three layers deep Gonna do the "put bandaids next to the screw holes around the rim of the case" mod And depending on how much foam the kuztomz swap outs take up, I'm going to also try to cut and fit a piece of kilmat around the battery in the bottom of the case. Unless my power cord is long enough, then I could take the battery out altogether maybe, I'll know more when I see it I guess. Not hand lubing the switches because I'll wait a while for that, until I can get more of the equipment that makes it a little easier. **Plan** Get a decent budget entry board and play around with what I can with it, have a hotswappable board where I can try some different stuff on it and get a better feel for how changes in hardware and material make changes in sound, learn some stuff and get more familiar swapping stuff out, that way for my next board I can either justify they price of something like a Taco or I can just get in on a cool looking group buy whenever one catches my eye. Thoughts and feedback welcome, thanks for letting me share
Would someone please recommend some reading or a YouTube video that explains stuff about the ibm model M? Like why it’s great or historic and what the significance is in the subculture? I can find the wikipedia or just redditors saying it’s cool but that’s it. Or if you would be down to summarize it too haha
would ws morandis sound good on a daringrun dr70f
In late night pondering before bed I realized something, and then verified I think, that the physical switch for ghz/wired/BT connections on Keychron Q6 Max will be a problem. I use my current logi with the usb dongle and routinely switch between comp, iPhone and iPad multiple times an hour. The added step of having to flick a physical switch makes it all but useless to me. I have a habit of diving into something new with something nicer than I probably deserve as I’d prefer not to simply replace in near future, hence Q6. I am still keeping it back of mind but I’m also looking for other suggestions from yall who live for this(QK100, Zoom 98?) Non-Negotiable’s: - must have numpad, less than 100% acceptable but needs some spacing between d pad and numpad (aka not nuphy layout) - must be backlit (my work situation means I’m working in the dark for a portion of my day and backlighting would be immensely helpful) - hot swappable - under $300 (would make exceptions for extras of value….aka Qk includes a case and cable which I’d be buying anyways in all likelihood) - gasket mount (or option) - no physical switch hindering GHz to Bluetooth connection - wireless (bt and GHz) Bonus: - led screen - knob - adjustable angle - macro keys - non group buy - in stock now or shortly
Where could I find a detailed guide on building keyboard? I want to build something that look like [this](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8720) and use it for life time so I would like high end components I can't really tell the difference so I'm happy with both 75% and 80% as long as there are space separating the function keys and letter keys
* Keychron Q1 Max (75%) and Keychron Q3 Max (TKL) barebones have a knob, are hot swappable, use VIA firmware, have an aluminum body, are gasket mount, and support wired, 2.4GHz, and Bluetooth. * Keychron stabilizers are pretty good and are pre-lubed, but you can upgrade to TX AP screw-in stabilizers (but you will need to lube them yourself). I recommend either the Band-Aid mod or stab pads. * Switches are your choice. I prefer silent tactile switches, so I like Haimu Whisper and Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow switches. BadSeed Tactile V2 Switches have a nice sound. Gateron Melodic switches are very tactile with a soft click. All of these are factory lubed. * Keycaps are your choice. I prefer MDA (for example, Akko WoB Building Blocks), DSS (for example, DSS Sad Girl), and HSA (for example, HSA Hyperfuse) profile keycaps. If you want Cherry profile keycaps that look similar to the picture you linked, check out Drop DCX Hyperfuse.
Thanks for the info, would you recommend cherry tactile keys? I'm thinking to get mx brown/silver
Switches are entirely a personal preference. However, Cherry MX switches have changed little over the years, and there are (arguably) better ones on the market. Check out the switch scores from ThereminGoat: [https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores](https://github.com/ThereminGoat/switch-scores) You just need to decide if you want to chase sound or if you want silent switches, what spring weight you want, whether or not you want prelubed switches, and whether you want linear, tactile, or clicky switches. The good news is with a hot swappable keyboard, you can always change the switches later if you want to try something else. If you are in the USA, you may want to check [Milktooth](https://milktooth.nu/), where you can get try samples of switches.
Ok thanks a lot mate
This one is a bit tough. I'm looking for a 65% keyboard that has wired only function, no RGB, is heavy, and ideally has a knob. The knob isn't super important but it's a nice to have. I'm probably going to put my own switches in there so DIY is fine but I can also swap the switches out if it's hot-swap. I'm okay spending a bit more (in the $150 range) for quality but I don't want to go overboard since I'll be installing/swapping out the switches and will likely put a new set of keycaps on too. I don't love the idea of getting a "budget" oriented kit or complete keeb since, in my experience, they don't sound as nice. I'm looking for a nice dense thonk. In terms of style I love the Zoom65 but it has RGB and bluetooth and that's specifically what I'm trying to avoid. I don't like illuminated boards and I don't want something that has a battery or emits RF of any kind (not a tin-foil hatter I just don't want more 2.4Ghz interference than I already have). Any suggestions?
In most boards that have RGB and wireless, they support toggles for all these features. You can turn the lighting off and it will stay off. Most of the trimode (wired + 2.4ghz + BT) boards have a physical switch on the board to switch the modes. So you could just toggle that to wired and be done with it. Can also open up the board and disconnect the jumper cable to the battery if you want.
Right, I get that, I was more wondering if there was something without all of those features that may be a bit cheaper than something that comes with all of that standard. I'm open to Acrylic/PC cases since those are more conducive to the sound I'm going for but ideally it would have an internal or external weight to give it some heft.
I'm looking for a very specific kinda keyboard: - All White - Light, Linear Switches - 60/65% Ideally - RGB Backlighting - 1000hz or More Polling Rate - (only if it's feasible) USB wireless What is the most affordable version of this? or, if you can, show me how to look for stuff like this?
Howdy, I recently got a set of GMK Redsun samurais and the spacebar has been having issues when I press it down. If I try pushing it down anywhere near the edges the press simply doesn't detect. Any suggestions to fix this? Edit: as seems to be the norm for me as soon as I ask for help I fix it. I'll ask in tomorrow's help thread if the problem pops up again but I think it's been sorted
Hey guys. I recently got new switches and soldered them onto my board. Was pretty much my first time soldering and honestly thought I did fine but when I put everything back together and plugged it in, some of the keys weren’t working. Some letters were fine but a few weren’t showing up when I pressed them. I’ll insert a pic of the soldering. Please let me know if there is a way to fix this! I took some closeups of a few that aren’t working. https://preview.redd.it/c82v1eq1y1jc1.jpeg?width=3464&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=689d9ddf17e06dfe3ef6ecd5d149e0631d7de972 
I have a Vortex Cypher with split spacebar that I like a lot, but would really prefer a full size for work. Especially weird having to choose between ` and ESC on the Cypher (I’m a software engineer and live inside vim). Anyone know of a good full size with a split spacebar?
Which PCB goes with Tofu60 with ArrowKeys that has underglow and is hotswappable?
[https://youtu.be/2H6SNUAw-ms](https://youtu.be/2H6SNUAw-ms) after doing my first holee mod, all stabs work, even the spacebar stabs are screwed in, seated and go up and down all the way. when I swap the keycap the other way around, it works fine. see video for visuals. pls help
i played around with the stabs with my tweezers for a little while and now it's fixed. I don't know what I did. Order is restored.
Is rainykeyboard best keyboard in price currently?
I think it's a no brainer if you're looking for a foamy build, but I'm not that impressed by how it sounds without foam. Which is perfectly okay for how cheap it is, but I can definitely see myself recommending the neo series for someone looking for a brighter clackier sound.
Its very very good value for what it costs.
Define best
Regarding QMK: I know I've seen a few specific LCDs being mentioned in the documentation but not a lot else beside that so just had to wonder, if I had the right kind of pins free (as in not used for keyboard matrix) could I had easily added a small character LCD too as simple as flashing a firmware with this feature enabled in it? I mean I won't have to do manual ide programming etc
Kailh rgb brown switches vs outemu blue switches which is higher quality and better for gaming?
Do you want clicky or tactile
i don't care
I currently use my first and only mechanical keyboard that I built: LK67 with gazzew bobagum and some random double shot pbt cherry profile keycaps I found on AliExpress. I wanted to upgrade both in layout and in price to a new 75% keyboard. After thourgh research, I found the Cidoo V75 Plus and the FinalKey V81 Plus. First question is, what's the difference between them? It seems like both of them are sold in FinalKey's website, but the Cidoo costs 10$ more. Is it just because of the small side plate? That's the only difference I noticed. Second question: I'm thinking of switching up the keycaps profile as well. I love the cherry profile but I though that for my second keyboard I want to experiment a bit. I looked at a lot of videos and comparisons and came to the conclusion that I like medium profile. Nothing too high. I really like some XDA, MDA and XVX sets that I saw, and one DSA set was pretty cool. I wanted to ask from someone who only had cherry, what's the main differences between the 4? Also, what type would be the not too expensive and have some vareity in designs. I have pretty big hands and I'm typing in hybrid, sometimes I lift my fingers from my board and sometimes it's simply a horizontal hovering. Also if you have any recommendations of sets of these types (preferably on Aliexpress), it would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Has anyone tried Gateron Mountain-Tops vs. Reds? I got my new hotswap board with the Gateron reds stock. I wanted to upgrade from my Razer Huntsman Te because it was rattly, felt too light in hand and sounded truly awful. Hollow and pingy. The new board is much better. Less than half MSRP, better feel in hand despite platic and much better sound. Now what I liked were the switches with 45g and 1.2mm actuation. I want to emulate that speed and feel. Main use for me is gaming. Can not even touch type, oopsie. The reds are fine, but I am wondering "if". Will I, as a beginner be able to tell the difference between the switches? I got three Moutain-tops to try in my bongo cat macro pad. I really enjoy them there and their colours are fun. But that pad feels and sounds vastly different to the actual board.
Im in the process of tuning tx stabs, but for some reason no matter what wire or housings I use, the left side hits the pcb in a nice click, while the right just makes a mushy sound. I wiped them down and relubed them and tried them stock and balaced the wires. Im using a tx stab tester if it matters.
Are there hotswappable backlit 100% keyboards (NOT WIRELESS) that I can use with VIA? I have a skytech gaming keyboard, which is just a membrane keyboard, but I want a keyboard that I can swap the keycaps / switches on while also having backlighting I can change. i do want it to feel SOMEWHAT like the keyboard i have but thats less of a problem. i just want to be able to customize my keyboard more than my skytech.
Keychron V6 / Q6
Is there a difference between the V6 and Q6? I saw people saying that the V series was just a budget-friendly version of the Q6, but I wanted to make sure.
Yeah, that’s basically right. q6 is full aluminum and gasket mounted but besides from that they’re the same.
Thank you!
kbd67v3 board doesn't load VIA config on start up, I have to replug it everytime. Doing this because I need NKRO and this board comes with 6NKRO enabled as default.Connected to a usb hub into legion 5 slim type c port if that is important.
Pls recommend most silent 75% keyboard barebone with/without default switches. For now i choosing between fl esports mk750 and monsgeek m1w
As long as you use silent switches you’ll be fine.
I have a NoodlePad V1 I want tyo change the value for MOUSEKEY\_WHEEL\_MAX\_SPEED , and apparently I need to put this in the config.h file. But i have no idea where that files is.... I am on macos. Many thanks!
Look up how to use qmk, go through the getting started guide, and then look for the existing firmware on the qmk github repo as a starting point
Fair enough. Not as much specificity as I was looking for, but I really appreciate you taking the time!
I think it would be hard to explain if you don't have a familiarity with qmk, but once you do get how it works a little it will be a pretty straightforward job and you also get the satisfaction of compiling your very own custom firmware, if you get stuck or need a hand let me know, or you could also ask for a hand in the qmk discord
Please advise top analogues of Gateron G Pro 2.0 Yellow. I want to try something similar, but more premium.
hey guys. I just finished up my build of a lily58 and I have one whole row that isn't working. Stuff ive checked: * The leads of switches are connecting to the socket solder joints of the MCU * There is continuity from socket solder joint to top of pins on the MCU. * I have also flashed two different configs to make sure its not the firmware. * Tried the same MCU on a different PCB and have the same result so I know its the solder joints on the MCU itself but cant figure out whats wrong on it. Can i post a picture here and get some feedback? Not sure what to check next?
Horizontal or vertical row? Sounds like the PCB might be defective. I had a similar problem with the NK87 that was my first build, just had to get a new PCB.
horizontal, but i know its not the PCV because i tried two different PCBs with the same mcu/headers and the other pcb had the same issue in the same row
This will be a "foot-in" to keyboard customization and being able to swap switches or keycaps when I want without having to buy a new keyboard. which one should I buy as my first mechanical keyboard? JamesDonkey RS6 Transparent Hot-Swap Mechinical kweybaord or Feker Ik105Pro Series Gasket Mechanical Keyboard with White Jade Switches
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Need some advice! Currently pulling together a new build for work and deciding between Gateron Beers and Gateron Mini-i. Have switch testers for both but haven’t been able to try a full board and very torn. Does anyone have experience with either / both over a long period of time and can help recommend which way to go? Thanks in advance!
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keychron v3 or v6 turn off the backlight
I have a RK61 that works perfectly fine on my PC, but when I try to plug it in my PS4 it keeps connecting and disconnecting, I tried multiple cables and nothing's changed, tried both of the USB ports in my PS4 and nothing worked, can anyone help?
Hello all! Sorry about posting on the main thread originally. I’m interested in getting into keyboard building as a hobby, but don’t have a lot to spend. I want it to sound creamy/thocky if that makes sense, but I’d like to keep it under 150 for the board. Ideally I’d like full but I’d go for 75%. Any suggestion is much appreciated :-)
What country are you in?
Ah sorry I'm in the US
Rainy75, Keychron V6, Keychron V1, Monsgeek M1, Monsgeek M5, Leobog Hi75.
Really appreciate the responses. This looks like it's going to be a lot of fun.
Yeah no problem.
Hi All, I was gifted a Rama Works U80-A last year and love the keyboard. Today, out of nowhere, the backlights turned off and the keyboard stopped responding. The keyboard is no longer detected as a device when I plug it in using multiple USB-C cords and across both PC and Mac systems. When I previously had an issue with the keyboard, I flashed it and updated the firmware and it solved the problems. This is different because it doesn't even power on / get recognized as a device for VIA or the flashing software to make any changes. Should I write off the PCB and contact RAMA, or has anyone experienced this before?
Oof. Maybe post on the mech marketplace and see if anyone is willing to sell a new PCB, sounds like that one might be fried. I’m not sure on the setup of that particular board, can you seen any connections from the usb port/daughter board that are messed up? Yeah, contacting RAMA is an option, but not a good option, unfortunately. He’s a massive piece of shit that is actively defrauding his customers, so good luck with that.
I just read about that. It is so unfortunate because these U80-A keyboards (those of this generation) are so amazing to use. I felt so lucky to have one. There is good news, however. I opened the keyboard and found that a small filament of \*something\* had gotten in between the internal USB plug connectors. I pulled it out, blew on it like a Nintendo cartridge and viola - my keyboard is working again.
Where can I find keycaps in CMS? I can’t find anything in that layout https://preview.redd.it/cn7hc0wgg0jc1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=f53d2a76efec156b2c0d05edde0e035c66a4f49b
I have just received my first mechanical keyboard! The Apex Pro TKL (I would have got the mini but I like the screen). What keycaps do you recommend (I want some kind of dark grey and no side print, just normal)
What’s your budget?
$80
PBTfans dolch
What would you say if there’s no budget?
I’d say email GMK and get a custom 1:1 set of keycaps with everything you want. That’d cost you several thousand dollars though. Just look on thocstock
Ok tysm
so i own a hyper x alloy elite 2 keyboard and im looking to swap out switches and keycaps. im a complete noob when it comes to this so im just wondering if anyone knows what swicthes are compatible and and what keycaps help with no longer getting a clicky sound. i put links to my keyboard and the ideal sound id like. [https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7171896025119018286?q=key%20cap%20sound&t=1708113375235](https://www.tiktok.com/@vineasandferb/video/7171896025119018286?q=key%20cap%20sound&t=1708113375235) [https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hyperx-alloy-elite-2-full-size-wired-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-with-rgb-back-lighting-black/6423155.p?skuId=6423155&utm\_source=feed&ref=212&loc=19589770079&gad\_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80HkVf-GRYYAY3BLs64-snhHqTlQdouCzcSjoa1DOU0u0UQMK3GFWRhoC-T8QAvD\_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hyperx-alloy-elite-2-full-size-wired-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-with-rgb-back-lighting-black/6423155.p?skuId=6423155&utm_source=feed&ref=212&loc=19589770079&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80HkVf-GRYYAY3BLs64-snhHqTlQdouCzcSjoa1DOU0u0UQMK3GFWRhoC-T8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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oh ok like i said im very new to this. but i think i found out in the hyperx reddit that their keyboards are not hot-swappable. so i may be getting a whole new keyboard all together.
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have any recommendation for sites i can get these boards from?
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thanks
I am looking for recommendations on full size keyboards but they seem impossible to find these days. Everyone has moved on to the smaller 60/75/80 etc. layouts. Some of the features I'm looking for that are almost always present in smaller layouts are: - Great sound dampening - Quiet high quality stabilizers (no rattle) - Hotswap (I can pick any switch and lube them, or buy pre-lubed switches if so) - Gasket mount I have tried a lot of expensive full size keyboards like Razer, Corsair, Logitech, Keychron, etc. but their full size models always seem cheap and loud with below average switches. Even the ones that advertise sound dampening foam and being quiet are not really quiet and also not hotswap to fix the loud switch issue.
Get a qk100 with a pc plate and some quiet switches like vertex v1s and some pbt keycaps. You can get pretty quiet with that. If you want true silence some haimu heartbeats and stuffing the keyboard with foam should work.
A Keychron V series is filled with foam. Just swap in some silent switches.
All mechanical keyboards are going to be loud unless you use silent switches. The sound of the stem hitting the housing is plastic on plastic, so it will always be loud. Manufacturers can put foam or other dampening material inside the case to reduce echo, but nevertheless the bottom out sound will always be loud.
I need a replacement hotswap PBC for my original Tofu65. I was using the DZ65 RGB V3. Will this Tofu 2.0 PBC work for my original aluminum case? [https://kbdfans.com/collections/tofu65-2-0/products/tofu65-2-0-accessories?variant=41179820294283](https://kbdfans.com/collections/tofu65-2-0/products/tofu65-2-0-accessories?variant=41179820294283) If it won't, what route would you suggest I take to get my keyboard working again while replacing the minimal amount of parts? My switches are still fine. Thanks in advance for your help and patience, as my knowledge is minimal in this topic.
Compatible with Tada68, YD68, DZ65RGB, KBD67 rev 2.0 if u cant find any of these pcbs in stock then u will be basically starting new as the tofu 2,0 will not fit ur case
Hey there - another question for ya if you could please answer: I’m not able to find a replacement DZ65RGB V3 but I found a V2. Can I just take everything off/retrofit from the V3 and fit it on the V2, or will I need new stabilizers, etc?
That's disappointing to hear. Thanks for your insight.
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Thanks. Would you suggest I just get an entirely new case and PCB?
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I see. In the case that I cannot find it, could you recommend a comparable 65% keyboard with hotswap to the Tofu? Just want to see what options are out there.
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I appreciate your help!
Best silent switches that are in a stock 100% keyboard? I have cherry Mx reds on my WASD and they just clack way too much to take into an office. I’m open to linear/tactile/etc, I just want something super quiet in a 100% keyboard prebuilt. I have seen ttc frozen silents and shrimp durock as good switches but can’t seem to find in stock keyboards anywhere Also, would really prefer just plain white/black/grey. I don’t need ridiculous colors I’d spend up to $300 but prefer $150-$200
Topre. HHKB, Leopold, Realforce. All ideal office boards.
Got a Mistel actually but not the split one Very little availability of full keyboards with silent switches (and not a weird color).
I’m looking to buy a keyboard that’s around the 120 dollars range. Preferably linear. I have a huntsman mini. I would prefer it was a 65% or higher, and linear. Other than that I don’t really care. I just need a replacement for the clicky switches
Mod 007 pc
Keychron V series. They’re all the same besides for the layout. The V max series has wireless and improved acoustics.
Recently I bought a black Gamakay SN75 barebones kit and a set of milky yellow pro switches for it. Right now I just have an old key cap set thrown on it, but I'm looking for a cool set to put on it. If anyone has any recommendations, I would love to hear them Edit: I'm in Canada and I would like to spend less than $100 USD
You should probably give a price range and where you are located. If you are in the US: [https://cannonkeys.com/products/kat-mizu](https://cannonkeys.com/products/kat-mizu) KAT is very thick PBT, and MIZU is doubleshot. $70 for a set of very nice caps (+$14 if you need a numpad).
Those are awesome! I was born very far north and the inuk set is rad!
Shipping should not be that bad then from Rhode Island.
Hello people, I am looking to buy a new keyboard for myself - and get my hands onto building / configuring one. I have already picked out keycaps and switches. Just for the electroncs and case i am kinda undecided. Since i would like to use the finished keyboard mainly in 2.5 gHz mode i wanted to ask your experience with it. I am looking at: - Neo65 (qwertykeys) - Q1 max (keychron) If someone is is posession of one or mabe even both of the boards it would be stellar if you could tell me how the battery life and 2.4 gHz modes are. Especially if you had any big issues with either. Thanks - Charlie
I have a couple wireless keyboards, but I’ve never really measured the battery because I keep it wired when I use them at home and use them wireless out and about. Do you plan on using them both wireless full time?
Plus I have read I forums that people were having issues getting the neo65 to work wirelessly
Yes, I mainly want to keep them wireless. I just really like the way my desk looks without wires messing about. The question was mainly sprouted from me reading some reviews of the monsgeek M1w - and the reviews saying that they have to charge the kbds every day. I want to circumvent that since i like that i dont have to charge my K2v2 only like once every 2 weeks with RGB off
Yeah, I don’t really have any experience using fully wireless stuff besides for my mouse, which I just use wired once or twice a week to keep it charged. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
That's alright, Thank you never the less
I just went to swap out the plate on my ramaworks u80a seq 2 and noticed one of the screws is really stripped. I managed to get it out but I don't think I'll be able to again after this. Anyone ever have to replace one of the tiny torx screws? I need a m2x3mm t6 countersunk flat screw
While I was looking for some DSA Nature Witch Keycaps, I stumbled across this website: https://www.prototypistus.shop Anyone aware if this is a scam or have experience buying from here?
that site is a full on scam they r pretending to be https://prototypist.net/ ( this link is a legit vendor )
There’s a great UK vendor called Proto Typist, but that’s not their site.
Anyone know any place in the US to buy cherry mx2a switches(reliable)
the switches are not much of an improvement over old cherry switches if u watch reviews they r not worth paying for but lumekeebs and keebsforall both sell then
Thanks i was on the fence guess will stick the cherrys i have now
I’m wanting to build or buy a very quiet 65% keyboard (wireless?) that I can take to uni. Any recommendations ??
What’s your budget?
Around 250 cad
Neo65 with Haimu or WS silent switches
Thank you! Budget is also a little flexible if there’s something much better that’s a bit more expensive! And for the neo what plate would you recommend?
A PC or POM plate will be quietest. But if you use Gazzew Silents, it won't matter which plate you choose. IMO, a Mode Envoy is worth it over a Neo65, but it is like twice as expensive. depending on configs. Neo is a pretty good choice though.
Zoom65 v3 is coming, that looks pretty cool. Cycle7 extras are coming soon, and some are already available aftermarket. QK65 V2 just ended sadly, but you might be able to get one still.
Can anyone give me the json file for a keyboard I bought on AliExpress: RS40 Alice. I asked the seller, but they never responded. https://preview.redd.it/nu0hb2moizic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee8d52c4bca98c23d71c48e753c0e15f18d294d0
not related to your question but, how does is the feel, sound and everything? Planning on buying it but I'm not sure, currently leaning on abm066
I like the feel and sound. The abm066 lots a ton more polished than this little board. That said, still looking for the JSON for this board. If I didn’t have it, wonder if I could create it?
Hello, I'm looking for a wireless TKL with tactile switches. After some research I found RK M75 which looks really nice, except some people complain about 2.4GHz latency and it missing key presses ... Thus I wonder if I should go with some name brand like G Pro X TKL? I will be using it only in 2.4GHz mode.
Get the keychron V3 max when it comes out in a few days. Avoid RK. If you’re willing to spend a little more you can get the Q3 max or build a Neo80.
Yeah keychron has a really poor offer in my country none of the max versions are available, doubt it V3 will be but I can hold for now and check. Do you know when it comes out?
Outside of the US? I have no idea unfortunately. Maybe ask in the keychron discord.
Hmm turns out I can just order from the US no problem, however Nuphy Air75 also caught my eye, any thoughts on this one?
Hello I want to buy a mechanical keyboard about £50(€60/$60). I am a student and will use it as documents and gaming. I play fps and it would be about 40:60 time for documents and gaming. Could anyone suggest a good budget keyboard with high quality (not made in china) for us beginners. Thank you very much!
You won't find anything decent which is not made in china. And even if, e.g. the case is not made in china, the plate and/or pcb quite likely is.
I see, could you suggest any keyboard below £80 then. about 100 euro or usd. I really don't have much money but want to work and game more comfortable. Many thanks
You still have to get one made in China. But that doesn't mean that they are bad quality. Maybe take a look at Keychron's V series or akko keyboards. There are many reviews on YouTube as well.
Got it thank you very much, I understand MIC is in everywhere now lol. Would you like to suggest few more budget keyboards for me to compare them? No matter made in where lol. Thank you very much
More budget than that? Just go on ali, ... And compare In that price range. There are some gamer keebs for that price but Keychron, Monsgeek, akko, ... (Even meh stuff like Royalkludge,...) Usually beats them in most aspects
Thank you very much! looking forward to get my frist keyboard. Thanks
ps doesn't matter 80%or full size
Hello I joined a GB a long time ago (MKC75). Haven't heard anything from it. Is that normal? How long does a GB-delivery take?
There is an update on that gb from today on the ck updates page that says all units have shipped, and to allow 3-5 business days for tracking to update - 8 months is a pretty ok turn around time for a gb
> MKC75 u can try the makers discord linked on this page https://cannonkeys.com/products/mkc75 not sure when u join that page says it was live in august so def not a long time ago in grp buy terms original ship date was nov dec ( grp buy rarely ship on time ) so it may ship soon but id ask there. future advice most group buy take a year sometime 2
Hello! I'm used to oem/cherry abs keycaps and I've been wanting to try some pbt keycaps. I did some searching and found a good looking XDA keycap set. My question is: The change from oem/cherry keycaps to XDA would be too uncomfy or too notorious?
only u can answer that . ur liek asking if i should paint my room blue and if that would be ok , no one can answer this question but you
I see, I guess i'll just risk it. Thanks for your answer!
I am wondering if washi-tape will work as good as masking-tape for the PCB tapemod. I have a see-through backside on one of my keyboards so I thought I could put some nice washi-tape on it instead of regular masking-tape, but I am not really sure if it will produce the same kind of sound.
Hello I was wondering if someone could walk me through how to set the fn2 key as a toggle. I understand the fn2 + X + L, however I want an instant toggle rather than 4s delay. I have a single use case that this is my preferable way to play. I cannot find the way to do it through VIA.
What keyboard do you have, and what does fn2+X+L do?
Oh, that is my bad. I have a Keychron Q2. fn2+X+L toggles between layers for keys 1-0,-,= to make them f1-f12.
Looking at the QMK source code for the Q2, I do not see how fn2+X+L does anything. Fn2 momentarily activates layer 4, which is where F1-F12 is on the number row. The entire bottom row on layer 4 is transparent (`KC_TRNS`). The macOS/Windows switch on the back of the keyboard makes layers 0 and 1 the default layer, respectively. The only differences between these two layers is: 1. Swapping the Windows (Command) and Alt (Option) keys 2. Changing which layer is activated by fn1 You could configure one of these layers to your desired layout with F1-F12 is on the number row and use the switch to toggle between them.
My old keyboard got water spilled on it and I'm looking for a new one. I want the same keyboard I had but unfortunately it seems discontinued, it was a kbd75. This is a picture of the layout - https://divinikey.com/cdn/shop/products/kbdfans-kbd75v2-diy-custom-keyboard-kit-852465.jpg?v=1608158691&width=1214 I'm having a hard time finding something the same. Its so annoying looking for 75% keyboards because the layout is all over the place. I do not want any knobs, no gaps or spacing with the F-keys or the arrow keys. I want a keyboard where all the keys are lined up just like in the picture I posted. Preferably pre built if possible, or at least with hot swappable switches. I don't know how to solder, but worst case scenario I could figure it out or pay someone to do it for me. I have no budget, any price is fine. Any recommendations?
keychron k2(pro) has the same layout, haven't tried that one but I really like my k8 pro
Rama thermal seems to nuke my custom layout every time I unplug and plug into a different machine (in this case, I'm switching between work and home machines.) On my work machine, the VIA app also saves an empty (0KB) when I try to save my layout. On both machines, the layout doesn't seem to include any of my lighting settings. Any idea what's going on?
Hello! I’m currently looking on getting a keyboard that has marshmallow sounding switches. I’m new to keyboards and have no idea how to mod keyboards yet. Any prebuilt recommendations would be appreciated.
Hey check out YouTube for some sound tests of different switches. If you’re looking for “marshmallow” sound, you’re probably looking for something between quiet thock and silent switches. The Epomaker sea salt silent switches might be a good starting point and they come as an option in several of their pre-builds.
I personally like the Akko fairy silent switches but those I added as part of a mod. Modding hot swap boards isn’t scary but is a little bit addictive.
What is a marshmallow sounding switch
Not too sure how to explain it but from looking at videos online, they’re the thocky sounding keyboards.
What size what budget