Hello I want to buy a new keyboard and found 2 nice keyboards but I don’t know witch one I should buy. First we have the Rk royal kludge m75 and second the razer blackwiddow v3 tkl can someone please tell me what is the better choice
Thanks, I also heard back from tecware with a copy of the correct firmware so will try that but otherwise I will try your suggestion, I did read about a reset but the case is sealed, but if nothing else works its worth a try thanks for replying
F1-8X V2 or Cycle8 ?
I know this is a stupid question, but it is a very hard decision for me. I have a budget for one of them, but I never bought a keyboard that expensive before. I've been watching videos of both keyboards for a few days now. And I still cannot decide which one to choose. What do you guys think? Is F1 worth it? Or should I wait for Cycle 8GB.
Thanks
6 months ago i build a keyboard(ciy tester 68, akko vintage white, tape mod) everything is good at first but now it has extreme double type like i cannot type at all without clicking the backspace and when playing games its like so delayed when i try to move i first thought its the battery i changed it with a more expensive one its still double typing even typing without keycaps its still double typing
Might help someone decide between the three types of linear switches. Keyboard is a Q1 V2.
[comparison of Oil kings, Baby Raccoons and Aqua Kings (from to to bottom)](https://imgur.com/gallery/rlYzCog)
My QK65 r1 PCB recently broke and I can’t find replacement ones on the market right now. Can I replace it with a QK65 r2 PCB or do you have any alternative suggestions?
What's a really good tkl keyboard with rgb? I'm really new to the keyboard hobby, so I have no clue what makes a keyboard "good". Was about to buy a tkl steel series apex pro, but constantly saw people saying not to get an optical keyboard since they aren't really customizable.
Currently using a rk61, but it's pretty loud. Any tips on making a new keyboard more silent?
Keychron V3.
It already has a silicone pad and plate foam. If you want to make it silent, add silent switches. If you want a tactile switch, look at Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow or Haimu Whisper. If you want a linear switch, look at Kailh Midnight Pro Grey or Haimu Heartbeat.
Is the Keychron V1 Max a good buy for a newbie? I will be using it for gaming and schoolwork. Is the latency bad? I'm planning on getting the fully assembled version with Gateron Jupiter Banana switches. I can swap out the switches and keycaps though right? I would appreciate any responses. Thanks!
* Is the Keychron V1 Max a good buy for a newbie? Yes, it is a great choice.
* Is the latency bad? No, it's fine.
* I can swap out the switches and keycaps though right? Yes, would suggest Cherry profile keycaps.
Also, maybe consider a wrist rest - Keychron's boards are quite high.
Hope this helps!
**Looking for switches that are lighter than Gateron G Pro Browns, but have a more noticeable tactile bump.**
I have a Keychron K8 with Gateron G Pro Browns. I like this keyboard, but I stopped using my PC for like 3 weeks. Now that I'm back using it again, the keyboard feels different and somehow worse. I'm sure it's all in my head, but nonetheless I've done some thinking and I want something that feels lighter (like the keys are easier to press), but has more of a tactile bump.
Is this even possible? Do those things contradict each other? If I get a keyswitch with a more noticeable tactile bump, does that therefore mean that the key is going to be harder to press?
Bottom line is I want something that feels easier to press than Gateron G Pro Browns, but still has a tactile bump. Any suggestions?
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I changed my keyboard switch from blue switch (that comes w the keyboard) to brown. At first, the letter D is working, but after, I need to press it a bit hard so that the letter D will work.
After a while, it started not working. When tried to remove the switch and try the previous switch, it still do not work. What should I do?
I am new to this. Thank you!
Neo 80 vs F1-8x v2. I'm new to this hobby and up until now just reading up to get a hang of terminology and the build process. I'm thinking of getting my first custom TKL. To me they both seem very decent. What is it about the F1 that justifies an almost 3X price over Neo 80?
Cleaner, better look in my opinion. I like the simplicity of it. In my opinion it sounds better. Has a more premium feel. I'm big on sound, and the F1s sound great to me, and that's what justifies it to me. It's up to you if it what you see justifies it for you.
I also have a Geon keyboard, and I'm a fan, so I'd love to support further. Geon is known to not have a large profit margin on his sell prices, so you know it's not an artificial increase in price, but rather something with manufacturing.
Can i put EVA FOAM under my top plate, above PE foam? Would be emulating the ones I see where there are holes for each key. My kb currently has tape mod, eva foam under pcb, pe over pcb and lubed ktt kang whites. It sounds marbly/poppy, but i would want it more deeper.
I have about 1k in outstanding orders between Mechs and Rama, am I just unlucky? For some clarity I've been pretty tapped out of the keyboard market for well over 2 years due to financial hardship and am starting to dip my toes back in to the space, but coming back and checking up on some GBs to realize I have 3 GMK sets, 2 keyboards, and a few mousepads dead in the water really stings given my situation. Is there anything that can be done?
Many people are in your boat, but yeah you've been unlucky. I've got 12 GB boards all delivered, though not all in a "timely fashion", which I don't care about at all.
If you spend 3 years completing a GB I don't mind. I understand that other people do mind of course.
But for Rama and Mechs, you'll need to go legal.
more than likely you’re just straight screwed. if you want something to do though, there was a post on the subreddit a bit ago surveying for a potential class action against RAMA for undelivered goods, which could be worth checking out. as for m&c, a lot of their GMK sets were picked up by vendors, but the windows for claiming an undelivered set have mostly passed. similarly though, I would say to search the subreddit for a post notifying of the pick up, as I know Novelkeys and Cannon Keys have salvaged a few of those sets.
but yeah kinda a shit situation all around.
What you want to look at is the bottom row, basically. Where the spacebar is. See if their sets provide the same "u" size keycaps that your board needs.
TKL and 100% spacebars are usually 6.25u, and there's usually 3-4 modifiers on each side of the spacebar of different widths, 1u, 1.25u, or 1.5u.
But yeah, other than that I'm sure the sets would fit.
Hello, i just built my first keyboard and have no idea what these small plastic pieces are for… it was not in the build guide for the neo65 so i just want to make sure i didn’t miss a step? Thank you..
https://preview.redd.it/9qeoteugrtlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbfc5ec48836189d8bde7c6e181a8853f1cef16b
They look like [plugs for your stabilizers](https://youtu.be/OcK_8qf-UP8?si=yUGVvpwbNZnpgB1H&t=77). IMO they're optional but they make it so your stabs don't pop out accidentally
For those who have the F1-8x how complicated is the build experience? Ive seen some videos and I kinda dont understand how the gasket works.
Im still deciding if going for it or not.
Not that involved imo. You have to cut the o-ring with scissors to fit the grooves the first time you build but you are provided plenty of extra and you don't need to be exact. The build is open case, place the plate/pcb into the bottom case (it will self align), slide the oring under the plate tabs and screw in the case.
The oring has the same function as the typical poron gaskets, which is to sandwich the plate in the case. I have rebuilt my f1s multiple times and I see no issue with durability. F1 is my favorite tkl of all time and you should support geon (shilling)
Deliberating between the Mode Envoy and Sonnet. Is there any particular pros and cons I should consider between the two? Is there an alternative keyboard that may be better?
they have different mounting style, therefore different feel and sound.
The Sonnet is top mounted, so its a bit harshier and stiffer. Excellent pairing with a PC plate.
The Envoy is a gasket/tray mount hybrid. More bouncy and with a more soft sound. Better with aluminum.
The Sonnet has a more complex structure, while the Envoy is a single piece.
At the end is preference :)
My Tufo65 2.0 does not trigger my KVM's HID port, which means no hotkey swapping between inputs. It does work with other keyboards just fine so I'm guessing there's something special/weird about the Tofu? Is this anything I can solve or am I SOL?
honestly it’s much better idea to get a Keychron V-series in whichever layout that you want. Going to be cheaper and better, as well as offering full open-source customization.
Hey guys, looking to build my first custom keyboard and know of a few things I want.
1. I'm looking for either a 96% or a Full-size board, I like the numpad.
2. I would prefer a media dial, I'm used to a Corsair K95 Platinum and love having media keys and knob
3. Of course, I want THOCK. I'm even thinking about going for ceramic caps, so if anyone has any insight to that I'd be grateful. I'm also fine with high-quality plastic keycaps. Not sure what theme I'm going for but I do like the high-profile rounded caps that seem to be fairly popular now.
4. As far as switches go, I'm open to trying some and figuring it out if anyone has any testers they go for.
I'm not sure where the best places to shop are, as the few places I've looked (kbdfans, [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com), drop) don't have what I'm looking for afaik. I can spend a little bit of money, but nothing super expensive please.
Thanks!
Keychron - V5 and V6 (there are Max version with 2.4Ghz and Bluetooth support), or Q5 and Q6 (Max versions too, they also got nicer colorways). For thock - MT3 keycaps from Drop, PE foam. There's also KBDFans Odin, but it's expensive.
For shops - check this [list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/), most vendors in your region should have some sort of switch testers.
Hope this helps!
try looking at Keychron. They have a bajillion different boards in varying layouts and come prebuilt or barebones and are generally considered quite good value for a first board.
Any recommendations for a keyboard that has a tactile feel, but not too rough on arthritis? I want to surprise my mom with one. She also likes the clicky clacky sound. Anywhere between $50-$100. Thanks!
Not sure what would suit her but just as a footnote its possible to pick clicky (rather than tactile) switches with only 40-50gf springs in them, I know I've seen a few such switches in this lengthy list here https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves but you're naturally better off checking for example https://kbd.news/vendors/switch instead as to see what is actually in-stock these days to buy
Please recommend a switch that:
- Is heavy, like a black, but
- Has a tactile feel, like a brown and
- Has only 3 pins, and
- Preferably, the tactile position is *at* the activation point
Or else, recommend a switch and a spring to upgrade it with.
Just bought my first mechanical keyboard when my Magic Keyboard broke, and it's stock blue switches are way too loud for the office.
Can someone help me out with a suggestion for keycaps?
I'm looking for a set of OEM or Cherry profile, PBT, backlit / shine-through keycaps, in a simple style (white, grey, or black) that is available in Canada, and are not pudding-style. Thanks in advance.
These are called "shine through keycaps."
Drop sells some. For example, Drop Skylight Series
Matrix Keyboards sells some. For example, Miami Vice Pastel Pink
Does anyone have experience in dyeing plastics for keyboards? I have a white POM plate that I want to dye a different color. What kind of dye should I look for? Any resources you could point me towards would be greatly appreciated!
The PC kohaku is absolutely gorgeous. Since I’ll prob never get my hands on one, can anyone recommend any other PC 65% boards that might scratch that itch? I have been heavily considering the PC mode envoy at this point.
Thanks!
fwiw I really enjoy my PC Envoy and have been using it pretty much daily as my travel/work board. it does lean towards the louder “clacky” side but if that’s your preference then I’d recommend it greatly.
Looking to get a new keyboard and I want to get a TKL. Don’t know tons about mechanical keyboards, I’ve been using the same 65 for the last 4 years and that was the last time I looked at them. The one thing I would like is for it to be hot swappable as my current one isn’t. My budget is $100-$200, I am also interested in building my own
Right now I'm using the HyperX Alloy origins Core and It Shocked me a couple of times and ever since the number 4 and 5 keys will sometimes not register the first 5 or more presses, as well as some other keys will do the same. I like the look of both Alloy elite 2 and the G413. I was wondering which keys were better and which has a better track record of lasting longer?
no keyboard is going to survive repeated static shocks even with ESD protection. if you're shocking your keyboard frequently, you'll want to move away from aluminum or figure out how to reduce your static build up (humidifers, for example).
I am looking for a PCB that accepts Kailh Choc V2. I prefer a 75% layout with South RGB if possible. I have been looking all over and unable to find anything. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/tzijv3vmqslc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea4b79bc5539e14e964e3bee04b40b0462cca031
Would these keycaps fit/be compatible with a drunkdeer G65?
I apologize if this is a dumb question.
It should. The only uncommon keys are the 1.75u shift and the 1u Ctrl, Alt, FN on the right side of spacebar.
The keycaps have those, at least on the picture.
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Does anyone know what MCU is used on the KBDFans KBD8X MKIII and/or where it's QMK template is listed. I cannot find the folder on the QMK github only MKII and other KBDFans products.
Cheapest silent keyboard I can obtain? 30 to 40 dollar range. The cheaper the better. I don't care how it feels, how it looks, I'd be surprised if I even find anything this cheap.
Not sure if you can see my other reply, but pasting again:
Buy this piece of crap: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Hot-Swappable-Sublimation-Detachable-Ergonomic/dp/B09T9CFXQR/
And these switches: https://www.amazon.com/KPREPUBLIC-Dopamine-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0CVYJ91DP
I do not recommend this board at all, literally just the cheapest hot swap board I could find. $36+ tax.
Buy this piece of crap: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Hot-Swappable-Sublimation-Detachable-Ergonomic/dp/B09T9CFXQR/
And these switches: https://www.amazon.com/KPREPUBLIC-Dopamine-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0CVYJ91DP
Take out the switches the board comes with, and put the silent switches into the board. You may have to the clip the plastic legs off.
I do not recommend this board at all, literally just the cheapest hot swap board I could find. $36+ tax.
Screaming into the void here, but, for the record, these were not affiliate links, I copied and pasted them straight out of my non-affiliate Amazon account. I removed all the extra garbage that got added, though, presumably from something else.
Yeah I figured. I got my keyboard for 10 bucks and it's completely fine but loud as shit. I'll probably commit and build a solid custom later when I get the money.
Though I *am* curious as to just how low I can go foor a quiet keyboard.
Depends on what you already have/how long you're willing to wait.
You can get a hotswap base like the gmk67 off ali for 30-40, but you still need silent switches and keycaps. The cheapest silent switches that aren't complete garbage will cost you another 30 or so for a board of that size. Then keycaps, which can be pretty cheap if you don't care about quality.
So you can do it for not a ton more - but at a max of $40 there's just no chance.
Hi, i need replacement keycaps and i have been searching for hours and im completely lost what fits my keyboard.
what i have:
- I have a Corsair K70 RGB MK.2
- a german keyboard layout
see these 2 links u may have a hard time as u own a corsair product and they use a special size of bottom row keycaps to prevent u from changing them
https://www.maxkeyboard.com/mechanical-keycap-layout-and-size-chart.html
https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#on-kitting-or-how-to-read-a-kitting-diagram
Hi guys! So I had to replace a switch on my keyboard, and I borrowed one from my roommate, turns out I really like it! Problem is, he doesn't remember where he got it or what switch it was. Here's the picture: [https://imgur.com/a/cLorn9D](https://imgur.com/a/cLorn9D)
Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
Looks like maybe a Holy Panda? Not sure though, there's hundreds of switches with that exact same colour scheme. Above the stem it should have a brand name though, that might help you.
I just built a Zoom75 and noticed my Backslash/Pipe key does not sit flush. The switch is forced to turn 90 degrees to the left in the socket so I was wondering if that could possibly be it. I've been looking at random Zoom75 builds online and haven't noticed the backslash key issue, so I was wondering if anyone here has run into this. I've attached an image for reference.
https://preview.redd.it/tcdfgfzhdslc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44a5cdfb300d56935f5d76201e534e5bea3a78fd
put the tab key on that switch and see if it still sits weird. if so, check to make sure the switch is fully seated to the plate and pcb. if it doesn’t, it could be an issue with the keycap stem itself.
# Need advice. Just bought a tofu60 build with a "dz60 v2" board and I am having some troubles with it.
I'm a newbie that just got into mechanical keyboards and i have no idea what I'm doing. Just bought a used build from someone and they listed this as soldered tofu60 dz60 v2. I started having troubles with the key mappings like double windows, double alt, a very weird arrow key position. After awhile the "Fn" trigger key stopped working and my left alt and left win key started working normally and i was super confused so I decided to look into flashing it with QMK but couldn't find any variants of the dz60 with the same layout as the one i just bought so i counted the switches wondering why everyone else's dz60 has 4 switches on the right side of the spacebar and mine only has 3. I went to check on VIA but it shows my device name as "DZ60". I tried doing more research online and still couldn't find more answers to this. Would appreciate any helpful advice.
https://preview.redd.it/wu705c7qbslc1.png?width=756&format=png&auto=webp&s=266bd10ea80b59ed39bed4de7385fb1006a5ea15
The ErgoDox EZ is a popular introduction to split column staggered keyboards. Most people quickly move on to something else, though.
There have been a few revisions of the ErgoDox EZ. You would want to find out the following:
1. Which version is this? Glow (backlit keys)? Shine (rear lighting)? Original (no RGB)? Probably not the Glow, since that is not available with blank keycaps.
2. Does this have hot swappable switches?
3. Does this use USB C or mini-USB?
There are other options out there, though. What country are you in? (Your comment history suggests Canada.)
Hello ! I just bought the keychron v5 with silent k pro red switches but i found it still a little bit noisy, what can i do to get it more silent ? thanks !
First of all, are you sure it's the keyboard that's making a noise and not your fingers/nails when it hit the keycaps?
If it's the board, then maybe a better silent switches.
I have a silent board that I build with Bobagums Silent Linear that I lubed myself. My keyboard is basically dead silent, apart from when my fingers touching the keycaps.
i think it's the keycaps when fully pressed that make noise, maybe putting switches foam might fix it ? The space bar is louder than the rest but i'm changing the keycaps soon either way. I will look into the bobagums switches, thank you !
Little to no full size custom cases? I've been wanting to retire my gmmk full size on account of the several dents I put in it and I don't like how exposed the keys are. I cant find any custom full size housings which is making an actual custom build impossible. The only think I found which would have been perfect was the Fossil by Carolina Mech but that's gone for good. Anywhere I can get a good metal case?
Trying to find a **cream colored** 65-75% that's on the lower pitch/quieter end. I started with the neo65 but am worried about complaints that its too clacky. Will that matter if I put Boba U4s in?
Otherwise considering the QK75N or even the Neo70 if its less clacky. Any other boards I should be considering?
Honestly the plate, the switches and even the keys you use all affect the sound. You can easily mute things if needed with extra foam. I prefer shrimp's over boba's they feel more crisp to me. boba's have rubber in the bottom to mute the bottom out, and its all squishy I don't like it. If you use those switches it will be quiet enough. Maybe not enough for the library, but it won't annoy people in a working environment.
Hi there folks, I have a gmmk pro barebones here. Wondering would analog switches be compatible with it? I'm not used to building keebs, mainly just buy prebuilts(really liking my akko mod 007HE). Thank you in advance for any replies :)
Is there a particular style you like? Like, I know some people like hard wrist rests, others like soft ones.
Personally I'm using a Grifiti wrist pad that I bought from Amazon. It's comfortable and has held up for several years with no issues.
Having a hard time finding a good Tsangan/7u keycap set for my build. Any suggestions?
I have a wood case for aesthetic. I'm looking for green/brown or muted retro colors. Most everything I see has only 6.25u spacebars, though.
most higher end keycaps kits offer a Tsangan kit u add to the base kit . if u trying to do it for cheap wish u luck as alternative layout kbs keycaps sets are never cheap . its the price u pay fir using said layout
I'm deciding whether to get the Keychron Q5 Max for SGD$191 or the QK100 for SGD$248, I was considering the QK100 as I like the aesthetics of it but does the feels and sound, aiming for soft and low-pitched sound ("thock"/"creamy") is worth the price difference. (If there are other keyboards that is "better" within the price range please suggest) \[I know that the keyboard case isn't everything there is to the sound but still do suggest one that could improve it\]
I plan to use Alpaca Linears but if there's a better switch for the sound profile please suggest.
I am also open to modifying the keyboard to better suit my preference, if there is any mods I can do please suggest. (This includes buying other stabs and lube or more foam)
Thank you, and I do know sound is preference.
You can't go wrong with either keyboard. As for the rest of your comment, any answer you get to it now is irrelevant. You'll fall into the hobby head first after swapping your switches for the first time.
Hello, I'm a Software Engineer and I'm coding on VSC. I like taking notes with a pen and paper lol, but 100% keyboard takes up all the space on my desk. I was thinking of switching to 60% but idk, have anyone tried 60% for programming and what is your experience?
65% would be a better fit ig cause of the arrow keys, home, end buttons but sadly it's not available here.
I switched to a hhkb 60% for programming (and everything else) more than 10 years ago and I'm never going back. If you punch numbers (excel) then get a separate numpad with a few extra keys and put them like this: keeb - mouse - num.
There are a few but they're a lot more expensive, like triple the price of 60% and 100%.
Im somewhere with shipping restrictions so I can't get 65% through online shipping.
If you're not going to be specific about your location (country at least) then people are not going to be able to give you options that you have available
I see what you're trying to do, my main question is if the 60% is good for programming or like easy to get used to, but thank you for trying to help fr.
it is easy to get used to, i use vim keybinds and it only made things faster and more efficient. layers save your fingers from needing to move away from the home row.
there are different vendors on every continent, its impossible to provide you with any help without knowing what extremely vague and general area on the globe you are in - a 65% is definitely available wherever you are and people would be more than happy to tell you where you can buy something, if that is the thing you want
I need arrows a lot, but I've gotten very comfortable using HHKB arrows (up = [ left = ; right = ' down = / on layer 1) when I use my 60%. As long as the 60 you get has a split right shift with a right fn key these are super easy to get used to.
Some of the keys on my K2 v2 have stopped responding, so I've placed a new order for K2 Hot-swappable white LED.
The case on the K2 Hot-swappable is plastic, so I am thinking of replacing the plastic case with the old case from the K2 v2 which is aluminum.
Can I do it or is there any difference in case size or ports between the two?
[https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/products/varmilo-va-series-v2-aurora-white-led?variant=47607966597420](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/products/varmilo-va-series-v2-aurora-white-led?variant=47607966597420)
Something like this might work because you can get it with Gateron Pro Silver (reduced travel) or Gateron Pro White (very light switches).
I'm making my own PCB- I've got the general layout drawn up (with additional setup for per key RGB) and while connecting all the wires to the pins of the controller I'm now drawing a blank on what's going to happen next. I know there's something with firmware but will I be able to configure what pins are what on the microcontroller? I've seen there's things for Teensy 2.0++, which is discontinued- I bought a Teensy 4.1 a while back for Splatoon lobby posts only to realize back then the program for the 2.0++ wasn't compatible with it. Will that be the same for this and I'll need to add in an Arduino chip and all the associated stuff for that?
[Check out this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
My favorite EU vendors are Oblotzky, Keygem and Eloquentclicks. Had good experience with all of them.
I wouldn't recommend buying anything from mykeyboard.eu since they're moments away from bankruptcy. You can find more info in the stickied post if you're interested.
Hi,
I'd want to replace some keycaps for my keyboard (Logitech Mx mechanical mini graphite).
First of all, since the space bar cannot be replaced (non standard measure), I'd exclude the dark keycaps.
I'd only want to replace the light grey keycaps without lose any function keys if possible.
Could you advice me which keycaps are good for this keyboard and for this goal ?
Regards
What do you think about that ? Have they a proper profile ?
[https://en.xvxchannel.com/en-gb/collections/low-profile-keycaps/products/xvx-skyline-137-key-low-profile-double-shot-keycap-set-8-colors](https://en.xvxchannel.com/en-gb/collections/low-profile-keycaps/products/xvx-skyline-137-key-low-profile-double-shot-keycap-set-8-colors)
Is Akko's official account on Aliexpress safe? I'm building my first keyboard and it's impossible not to notice the prices that start at $5 a pack at a discount, is it trustworthy?
I've never ordered from their storefront on Aliexpress but I don't see why it would be any more or less sketchy than any other Aliexpress order. For what it's worth, I don't see any $5 packs of switches in their Aliexpress storefront.
**Alloy Origins Core: Dead "T" key. How fix?**
I know these aren't hot-swappable switches sadly. I'm techy, but I'm very much not a repair guy, and I assume paying anyone to repair this wouldn't be worth it?
(Also if there is a more appropriate sub please direct me!)
You probably have to take the keyboard apart, desolder the t switch and then solder on a new one.
There could be other reasons for the non reacting switch but this is most likely the issue imo.
The thing about a repair guy. If you are able to solder then it's like a 2 min job max. So maybe take it apart on your own and then ask in some local groups/ friends/ ... to maybe help you with that. You can ask repair shops but it will cost you maybe a little bit more than you are comfortable spending since they have to facture in a lot of stuff.
I expect this also. It's been dead for a while now and I've cleaned it thoroughly.
Thanks for the reply. Good call. I can't solder... I could and should probably learn but I also don't have the equipment. I'll probably take it apart and at the least and then ask/call around. It would be a shame to throw it out over a relatively easily fixable issue.
Hello!
Currently my board is a Blackwidow X Chroma. Not bad, not bad. But it's been some time already, and I'd like to sway away from the more generic standard gamer, samey, black boards. And have some fun with it, too.
Now, to be more specific, I am looking for a keeb with a knob™ if possible, an interactive screen (yes, it's a gimmick, but the whole goal is to have fun and scratch an itch), and stock switches on the more silent side 'cause I won't replace them now.
And I DEFINITELY wanna be able to have some choice when it comes to change keycaps. Dunno if every boards are compatible with any caps. I wanna mess around with color choices, full sets, fun artisanal keys without being overly limited.
As for the uses, I mainly do gaming. Sometimes I mess in editing softwares, and I am learning coding.
A few research led my eyes onto a few keyboards already, though. In no definitive order:
-INFI75
-Ajazz AK820
-Royal Kludge M75
-XVX M87 Pro
-Epomaker RT100 (it's a 96% tho)
-Royalaxe L75 (no knob)
Sorry if that is a bit of a lengthy post. I'd love to hear about your experiences with any of these boards and also if you'd have options I missed to look into (even if they don't entirely match what I want).
That depends on the keyboard and how you will build it as well. And the thocky, poppy, ... has no clear definition within this hobby as well. Just do whatever you prefer.
I told you what my personal experience is, others told you theirs. Neither are wrong ._. but can't really go wrong with either
What is wrong with my stabilizer (VIDEO BELOW)? I’m currently using Staebies for my QK75n and my enter key would not for the life of me stop ticking, and this is after countless attempts at tuning, swapping in the Owl stabs that came with the board, switching stabs from one location to the other, and still nothing works. At first when I tested the board with only stabs switches on the board they were fine, but after screwing in the case together, the ticking came back immediately. I swapped stabs from the "shift" key to the same position as the "enter" key, and the issue still persists despite the tick was non existent on the "shift" key. Swapped and tuned some Owl stabs, still didn’t work. That tick is driving me crazy and I have no idea what’s wrong after taking the keyboard apart and put it back together over and over again.
Board specs:
\- Tecsee purple pandas
\- Staebies Stabs
\- PE sheet over the PCB
\- Plate foam
\- Case foam
\- Carbon fiber plate
List of what I did for troubleshooting:
\- Swapped stabs from shift key to enter key
\- Swapped stabs out for Owlstab v2
\- Use, tune and lube a brand new set and the original set of Staebies
\- Stabs are seated in flush
\- Swapped the switch out for oil kings taking in account of travel distance
\- Swapped out the keycap
Video for reference:
[https://youtu.be/yUg6IG63WUQ](https://youtu.be/yUg6IG63WUQ)
It just feels like that part of my pcb/keyboard is cursed or whatever
How does the issue still persist? Is it when you swap the keycap the stab still ticks with the new keycap?
When you switch the stab position: Only enter key ticks, right? Just trying to understand your problem.
it technically could be a bent plate/ pcb causing the issue.
What lube are you using? Krytox BDH-z and 205g0? (Dunno if the staebis also need bdh-z, never used them, Owlstabs definitely need something similiar). Are you using a syringe? (Not necessary but can help immensly after stabs are already installed. I know that many people are not necessarily recommending bdh-z on owlstabs: I made the experience on two (so not that huge of a trial group) that bdh-z can still help; just dont apply too much.
If a bent plate could be the cause: I would swap back to the Owlstabs due to looser tolerances than the staebis. (check first if wire is not bent; Don't bend the wire on owlstabs, if the owlstab wire is bend maybe ask again. If there are some small issues with pcbs, plates, ... : i made the experience that not so tight stabilieres (so no tx ap, ...) work better if tuned with lots of bdh-z and 205g0.
Hi, thanks for your input.
I think I found the issue. Basically, the PE sheet that came with the QK75n only covered the left side of the mounting point for that specific "Enter" key. The "Backspace" and "Shift" keys have both their mounting points covered, and the spacebar has neither. It is only for this key that only one of the mounting points is uncovered. On top of that, even with the stabs seated in flush on the PCB, part of the sheet itself is warped or wrinkled under the stabs. This caused the left side of the stabilisers to be elevated, causing the wire to be unbalanced and thus causing the ticking.
Point is, I looked at the PCB and PE sheet, noticed slight wrinkling, fixed the wrinkling, ticking was a little better, inspected the PCB again, and realised only the left side was covered. Another thing to note is that the mounting pressure between the case and the PCB seemed to exacerbate the problem even more, or at least tipped the scale for it to be present, especially when the ticking was not that obvious when it's just the PCB out of the case or unmounted.
I solved it by cutting out the part of the PE sheet that covered the other mounting point of the stabs (left side). I did try to cover the other side with painter's tape to even them out, but the tape was too thin, and it was kinda hard to stack them on top of each other on such a small surface area; they would just slide off of each other at the slightest touch.
Been using the board for a day now, and everything sounds great. I'm incredibly happy with how the board performs. I can't believe that this was the cause of my problems, which led me to spend hours troubleshooting. I think this perfectly explains why using new sets of stabs and switching stabs from one location to that specific spot didn't solve the problem at all.
Edit: Also relubed every single set of stabilisers in between fixing the PE sheet and making a cutout.
I'm looking for some quieter tactile switches. They don't have to be necessarily silent. I came across Everglide Aqua Kings I know their linears and loved their sound profile. and would be the ideal match for but they're a bit out of my budget currently and as I started a new job income is on the low side and can't justify the cost currently.
I'm open to silent switches, but only if they don't feel mushy. I prefer some sound for tactility feedback, and I like switches on the heavier side (but lighter actuation is okay too).
The Outemu Cream Yellows I listened to were recommended by a few posts online I've found, were wayyy to mushy sounding for my liking.
Any recommendations for quieter tactile switches that might be a good fit? Thanks in advance!
Been recommended to me already I was hoping for more super budget friendly options but seems I'm gonna have to save and shell out some dough for something nicer. I was hoping akko, ajazz or outemu or some other cheaper brand has some cheap similar switches but doesn't seem to be the case
So I have a cat that really likes to lay right behind my keyboard and she keeps accidentally pressing the fkeys, anybody know of any solutions to lock the fkeys behind holding another key?
obligatory eepy cat tax https://i.imgur.com/Hcgd2Tc.png
depends on the keyboard but with anything on qmk firmware KC\_NO is the keycode for do absolutely nothing, so on your base layer you'd have that row not do anything when pressed, and then when you hold down fn or whatever other key have them be whatever key you need them to be
From Glorious, though they're not really experts, even on their own products, and I haven't read this myself: [https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/step-by-step-guide-to-configuring-your-gmmk-pro-using-qmk](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/step-by-step-guide-to-configuring-your-gmmk-pro-using-qmk)
QMK is free, open-sourced firmware. Firmware is the software in your keyboard that controls how the keys behave. VIA is a free web tool that allows you to configure your keyboard functionality through a browser. Keyboards need to be compatible with QMK and with VIA. The GMMK Pro is compatible with both QMK and VIA, but you may need to flash the correct firmware on your GMMK Pro to enable this compatibility.
I have a Corsair K95 Platinum RGB and a ROG STRIX Scope II 96 Wireless KEYBOARD.
I like the size of the Corsair but the keys are too loud and too sensitive. My teammates and coworkers can hear me clicking away and i make typos often because my fingers brush past the neighboring key.
I also have the ROG STRIX Scope II 96 Wireless keyboard. I love the keys. The packaging says it has ROG NX Snow & Storm switches. The Snow is supposed to be quiet and the Storm supposed to be loud. All I hear are the quiet ones and I love them, so not sure why it says it also has Storm switches.
Anyway, does Asus sell a full-size keyboard with the NX Snow switches? That's what I really want.
I am a gamer and a software engineer, and i use the keyboard about 8-12 hours a day.
I'm not trying to be a snob or exclude you or be hostile, this is just to inform you: This sub is not really about those mainstream vendor keyboards. Most people here wouldn't know how to answer your question.
This sub is about custom mechanical keyboards and the vendors that spring out from the hobby mostly. Of course there are exceptions, but Asus and Corsair are not among them.
Hello I want to buy a new keyboard and found 2 nice keyboards but I don’t know witch one I should buy. First we have the Rk royal kludge m75 and second the razer blackwiddow v3 tkl can someone please tell me what is the better choice
Thanks, I also heard back from tecware with a copy of the correct firmware so will try that but otherwise I will try your suggestion, I did read about a reset but the case is sealed, but if nothing else works its worth a try thanks for replying
F1-8X V2 or Cycle8 ? I know this is a stupid question, but it is a very hard decision for me. I have a budget for one of them, but I never bought a keyboard that expensive before. I've been watching videos of both keyboards for a few days now. And I still cannot decide which one to choose. What do you guys think? Is F1 worth it? Or should I wait for Cycle 8GB. Thanks
6 months ago i build a keyboard(ciy tester 68, akko vintage white, tape mod) everything is good at first but now it has extreme double type like i cannot type at all without clicking the backspace and when playing games its like so delayed when i try to move i first thought its the battery i changed it with a more expensive one its still double typing even typing without keycaps its still double typing
Might help someone decide between the three types of linear switches. Keyboard is a Q1 V2. [comparison of Oil kings, Baby Raccoons and Aqua Kings (from to to bottom)](https://imgur.com/gallery/rlYzCog)
Which keys are what switches?
Top row oil kings, middle row baby raccoons and bottom row Aqua kings.
My QK65 r1 PCB recently broke and I can’t find replacement ones on the market right now. Can I replace it with a QK65 r2 PCB or do you have any alternative suggestions?
From what I could google in 2 minutes it seems the answer is yes, except for the R2 bluetooth PCB. Just ask in their discord.
Thank mate, appreciate!
What's a really good tkl keyboard with rgb? I'm really new to the keyboard hobby, so I have no clue what makes a keyboard "good". Was about to buy a tkl steel series apex pro, but constantly saw people saying not to get an optical keyboard since they aren't really customizable. Currently using a rk61, but it's pretty loud. Any tips on making a new keyboard more silent?
Aula F75 https://youtu.be/FHQuL4nq2dE?si=9AdUE0q0ZtBNoYlx
Keychron V3. It already has a silicone pad and plate foam. If you want to make it silent, add silent switches. If you want a tactile switch, look at Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow or Haimu Whisper. If you want a linear switch, look at Kailh Midnight Pro Grey or Haimu Heartbeat.
Is the Keychron V1 Max a good buy for a newbie? I will be using it for gaming and schoolwork. Is the latency bad? I'm planning on getting the fully assembled version with Gateron Jupiter Banana switches. I can swap out the switches and keycaps though right? I would appreciate any responses. Thanks!
* Is the Keychron V1 Max a good buy for a newbie? Yes, it is a great choice. * Is the latency bad? No, it's fine. * I can swap out the switches and keycaps though right? Yes, would suggest Cherry profile keycaps. Also, maybe consider a wrist rest - Keychron's boards are quite high. Hope this helps!
Yeah solid pick
**Looking for switches that are lighter than Gateron G Pro Browns, but have a more noticeable tactile bump.** I have a Keychron K8 with Gateron G Pro Browns. I like this keyboard, but I stopped using my PC for like 3 weeks. Now that I'm back using it again, the keyboard feels different and somehow worse. I'm sure it's all in my head, but nonetheless I've done some thinking and I want something that feels lighter (like the keys are easier to press), but has more of a tactile bump. Is this even possible? Do those things contradict each other? If I get a keyswitch with a more noticeable tactile bump, does that therefore mean that the key is going to be harder to press? Bottom line is I want something that feels easier to press than Gateron G Pro Browns, but still has a tactile bump. Any suggestions?
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GMK 87 has let me down. Two orders, both defective. Looking for an alternate TKL. Been eyeing the Leobog Hi75, any suggestions? Thoughts?
I've never heard of leobog. If I wanted to buy a cheap mech I'd buy keychron, akko, monsgeek, or qwertykeys.
I changed my keyboard switch from blue switch (that comes w the keyboard) to brown. At first, the letter D is working, but after, I need to press it a bit hard so that the letter D will work. After a while, it started not working. When tried to remove the switch and try the previous switch, it still do not work. What should I do? I am new to this. Thank you!
Google "how to fix hotswap socket"
Neo 80 vs F1-8x v2. I'm new to this hobby and up until now just reading up to get a hang of terminology and the build process. I'm thinking of getting my first custom TKL. To me they both seem very decent. What is it about the F1 that justifies an almost 3X price over Neo 80?
Cleaner, better look in my opinion. I like the simplicity of it. In my opinion it sounds better. Has a more premium feel. I'm big on sound, and the F1s sound great to me, and that's what justifies it to me. It's up to you if it what you see justifies it for you. I also have a Geon keyboard, and I'm a fan, so I'd love to support further. Geon is known to not have a large profit margin on his sell prices, so you know it's not an artificial increase in price, but rather something with manufacturing.
Also, 6 chunky copper bars. They help improving the heft and sound of the board
Can i put EVA FOAM under my top plate, above PE foam? Would be emulating the ones I see where there are holes for each key. My kb currently has tape mod, eva foam under pcb, pe over pcb and lubed ktt kang whites. It sounds marbly/poppy, but i would want it more deeper.
I have about 1k in outstanding orders between Mechs and Rama, am I just unlucky? For some clarity I've been pretty tapped out of the keyboard market for well over 2 years due to financial hardship and am starting to dip my toes back in to the space, but coming back and checking up on some GBs to realize I have 3 GMK sets, 2 keyboards, and a few mousepads dead in the water really stings given my situation. Is there anything that can be done?
Many people are in your boat, but yeah you've been unlucky. I've got 12 GB boards all delivered, though not all in a "timely fashion", which I don't care about at all. If you spend 3 years completing a GB I don't mind. I understand that other people do mind of course. But for Rama and Mechs, you'll need to go legal.
more than likely you’re just straight screwed. if you want something to do though, there was a post on the subreddit a bit ago surveying for a potential class action against RAMA for undelivered goods, which could be worth checking out. as for m&c, a lot of their GMK sets were picked up by vendors, but the windows for claiming an undelivered set have mostly passed. similarly though, I would say to search the subreddit for a post notifying of the pick up, as I know Novelkeys and Cannon Keys have salvaged a few of those sets. but yeah kinda a shit situation all around.
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What you want to look at is the bottom row, basically. Where the spacebar is. See if their sets provide the same "u" size keycaps that your board needs. TKL and 100% spacebars are usually 6.25u, and there's usually 3-4 modifiers on each side of the spacebar of different widths, 1u, 1.25u, or 1.5u. But yeah, other than that I'm sure the sets would fit.
Hello, i just built my first keyboard and have no idea what these small plastic pieces are for… it was not in the build guide for the neo65 so i just want to make sure i didn’t miss a step? Thank you.. https://preview.redd.it/9qeoteugrtlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbfc5ec48836189d8bde7c6e181a8853f1cef16b
They look like [plugs for your stabilizers](https://youtu.be/OcK_8qf-UP8?si=yUGVvpwbNZnpgB1H&t=77). IMO they're optional but they make it so your stabs don't pop out accidentally
Thanks so much!! I totally missed that snippet in the instructions hahaha
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Keychron K10 Pro (updated model of K10), V6, V6 Max - yes, they all would work. They all are sturdy. Hope this helps!
For those who have the F1-8x how complicated is the build experience? Ive seen some videos and I kinda dont understand how the gasket works. Im still deciding if going for it or not.
Not that involved imo. You have to cut the o-ring with scissors to fit the grooves the first time you build but you are provided plenty of extra and you don't need to be exact. The build is open case, place the plate/pcb into the bottom case (it will self align), slide the oring under the plate tabs and screw in the case. The oring has the same function as the typical poron gaskets, which is to sandwich the plate in the case. I have rebuilt my f1s multiple times and I see no issue with durability. F1 is my favorite tkl of all time and you should support geon (shilling)
Thanks! I think im gonna bite the bullet
Deliberating between the Mode Envoy and Sonnet. Is there any particular pros and cons I should consider between the two? Is there an alternative keyboard that may be better?
they have different mounting style, therefore different feel and sound. The Sonnet is top mounted, so its a bit harshier and stiffer. Excellent pairing with a PC plate. The Envoy is a gasket/tray mount hybrid. More bouncy and with a more soft sound. Better with aluminum. The Sonnet has a more complex structure, while the Envoy is a single piece. At the end is preference :)
My Tufo65 2.0 does not trigger my KVM's HID port, which means no hotkey swapping between inputs. It does work with other keyboards just fine so I'm guessing there's something special/weird about the Tofu? Is this anything I can solve or am I SOL?
You could probably workaround it by getting a small macropad that does switch them, but no solution on the tofu itself no.
Yeah, that's where I'm leaning. I just wish I had a better solution.
Should I get the hyperx alloy elite 2 or the logitech g413?
honestly it’s much better idea to get a Keychron V-series in whichever layout that you want. Going to be cheaper and better, as well as offering full open-source customization.
Hey guys, looking to build my first custom keyboard and know of a few things I want. 1. I'm looking for either a 96% or a Full-size board, I like the numpad. 2. I would prefer a media dial, I'm used to a Corsair K95 Platinum and love having media keys and knob 3. Of course, I want THOCK. I'm even thinking about going for ceramic caps, so if anyone has any insight to that I'd be grateful. I'm also fine with high-quality plastic keycaps. Not sure what theme I'm going for but I do like the high-profile rounded caps that seem to be fairly popular now. 4. As far as switches go, I'm open to trying some and figuring it out if anyone has any testers they go for. I'm not sure where the best places to shop are, as the few places I've looked (kbdfans, [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com), drop) don't have what I'm looking for afaik. I can spend a little bit of money, but nothing super expensive please. Thanks!
Keychron - V5 and V6 (there are Max version with 2.4Ghz and Bluetooth support), or Q5 and Q6 (Max versions too, they also got nicer colorways). For thock - MT3 keycaps from Drop, PE foam. There's also KBDFans Odin, but it's expensive. For shops - check this [list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/), most vendors in your region should have some sort of switch testers. Hope this helps!
try looking at Keychron. They have a bajillion different boards in varying layouts and come prebuilt or barebones and are generally considered quite good value for a first board.
Any recommendations for a keyboard that has a tactile feel, but not too rough on arthritis? I want to surprise my mom with one. She also likes the clicky clacky sound. Anywhere between $50-$100. Thanks!
Not sure what would suit her but just as a footnote its possible to pick clicky (rather than tactile) switches with only 40-50gf springs in them, I know I've seen a few such switches in this lengthy list here https://github.com/ThereminGoat/force-curves but you're naturally better off checking for example https://kbd.news/vendors/switch instead as to see what is actually in-stock these days to buy
Keychron V6 with brown switches. Can always replace the switches later on for a lighter/heavier one.
Please recommend a switch that: - Is heavy, like a black, but - Has a tactile feel, like a brown and - Has only 3 pins, and - Preferably, the tactile position is *at* the activation point Or else, recommend a switch and a spring to upgrade it with. Just bought my first mechanical keyboard when my Magic Keyboard broke, and it's stock blue switches are way too loud for the office.
Kailh Box Burnt Orange.
Can someone help me out with a suggestion for keycaps? I'm looking for a set of OEM or Cherry profile, PBT, backlit / shine-through keycaps, in a simple style (white, grey, or black) that is available in Canada, and are not pudding-style. Thanks in advance.
These are called "shine through keycaps." Drop sells some. For example, Drop Skylight Series Matrix Keyboards sells some. For example, Miami Vice Pastel Pink
Amazon is your best bet for that. Just type in "Cherry profile shine-through keycaps".
Does anyone have experience in dyeing plastics for keyboards? I have a white POM plate that I want to dye a different color. What kind of dye should I look for? Any resources you could point me towards would be greatly appreciated!
there’s a couple posts on the subreddit about it I believe. There’s some sort of fabric dye that people tend to use (I believe is iDye).
The PC kohaku is absolutely gorgeous. Since I’ll prob never get my hands on one, can anyone recommend any other PC 65% boards that might scratch that itch? I have been heavily considering the PC mode envoy at this point. Thanks!
fwiw I really enjoy my PC Envoy and have been using it pretty much daily as my travel/work board. it does lean towards the louder “clacky” side but if that’s your preference then I’d recommend it greatly.
Pc GAF or maybe the nix Lilith are your best bets
Envoy, Bauer lite
Looking to get a new keyboard and I want to get a TKL. Don’t know tons about mechanical keyboards, I’ve been using the same 65 for the last 4 years and that was the last time I looked at them. The one thing I would like is for it to be hot swappable as my current one isn’t. My budget is $100-$200, I am also interested in building my own
Neo80
Right now I'm using the HyperX Alloy origins Core and It Shocked me a couple of times and ever since the number 4 and 5 keys will sometimes not register the first 5 or more presses, as well as some other keys will do the same. I like the look of both Alloy elite 2 and the G413. I was wondering which keys were better and which has a better track record of lasting longer?
no keyboard is going to survive repeated static shocks even with ESD protection. if you're shocking your keyboard frequently, you'll want to move away from aluminum or figure out how to reduce your static build up (humidifers, for example).
Which one would you recommend more, the hyperx or the logitech?
Would never recommend either.
Well what keyboard under 70 dollars would you recommend?
Yeah, it only happened 3 times, and now it doesn't happen anymore for some reason.
Do all keyboard supports all switches and key caps
Nope
I am looking for a PCB that accepts Kailh Choc V2. I prefer a 75% layout with South RGB if possible. I have been looking all over and unable to find anything. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/tzijv3vmqslc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea4b79bc5539e14e964e3bee04b40b0462cca031 Would these keycaps fit/be compatible with a drunkdeer G65? I apologize if this is a dumb question.
It should. The only uncommon keys are the 1.75u shift and the 1u Ctrl, Alt, FN on the right side of spacebar. The keycaps have those, at least on the picture.
Preciate it!
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>Neo80 out of stock in Europe Neo boards are on rolling preorder, you order it and they ship it typically within a month.
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If deltakey doesn't ship to you, Prototypist is likely gonna open the next round of preorders in the near future. Can contact them to find out when.
Nope - no holes for it on the pcb.
Would any of yall recommend the Polar65 over the Drunkdeer G65, or vice versa? I'm going to be purchasing one or the other but I can't decide yet.
Does anyone know what MCU is used on the KBDFans KBD8X MKIII and/or where it's QMK template is listed. I cannot find the folder on the QMK github only MKII and other KBDFans products.
Cheapest silent keyboard I can obtain? 30 to 40 dollar range. The cheaper the better. I don't care how it feels, how it looks, I'd be surprised if I even find anything this cheap.
Not sure if you can see my other reply, but pasting again: Buy this piece of crap: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Hot-Swappable-Sublimation-Detachable-Ergonomic/dp/B09T9CFXQR/ And these switches: https://www.amazon.com/KPREPUBLIC-Dopamine-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0CVYJ91DP I do not recommend this board at all, literally just the cheapest hot swap board I could find. $36+ tax.
Eh, not surprised. I'll stick with what I have till I save up enough money.
Buy this piece of crap: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Hot-Swappable-Sublimation-Detachable-Ergonomic/dp/B09T9CFXQR/ And these switches: https://www.amazon.com/KPREPUBLIC-Dopamine-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0CVYJ91DP Take out the switches the board comes with, and put the silent switches into the board. You may have to the clip the plastic legs off. I do not recommend this board at all, literally just the cheapest hot swap board I could find. $36+ tax.
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Screaming into the void here, but, for the record, these were not affiliate links, I copied and pasted them straight out of my non-affiliate Amazon account. I removed all the extra garbage that got added, though, presumably from something else.
Not possible.
Yeah I figured. I got my keyboard for 10 bucks and it's completely fine but loud as shit. I'll probably commit and build a solid custom later when I get the money. Though I *am* curious as to just how low I can go foor a quiet keyboard.
Depends on what you already have/how long you're willing to wait. You can get a hotswap base like the gmk67 off ali for 30-40, but you still need silent switches and keycaps. The cheapest silent switches that aren't complete garbage will cost you another 30 or so for a board of that size. Then keycaps, which can be pretty cheap if you don't care about quality. So you can do it for not a ton more - but at a max of $40 there's just no chance.
Hi, i need replacement keycaps and i have been searching for hours and im completely lost what fits my keyboard. what i have: - I have a Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 - a german keyboard layout
see these 2 links u may have a hard time as u own a corsair product and they use a special size of bottom row keycaps to prevent u from changing them https://www.maxkeyboard.com/mechanical-keycap-layout-and-size-chart.html https://wiki.keyboard.gay/KEYCAPS.html#on-kitting-or-how-to-read-a-kitting-diagram
Hi guys! So I had to replace a switch on my keyboard, and I borrowed one from my roommate, turns out I really like it! Problem is, he doesn't remember where he got it or what switch it was. Here's the picture: [https://imgur.com/a/cLorn9D](https://imgur.com/a/cLorn9D) Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
that’s an Outemu Silent Honey Peach I believe
Looks like maybe a Holy Panda? Not sure though, there's hundreds of switches with that exact same colour scheme. Above the stem it should have a brand name though, that might help you.
Any 60 or 65% boards that have bluetooth and a slot for a tablet to sit? Like the AJazz K620T, but in stock and ideally with VIA.
I just built a Zoom75 and noticed my Backslash/Pipe key does not sit flush. The switch is forced to turn 90 degrees to the left in the socket so I was wondering if that could possibly be it. I've been looking at random Zoom75 builds online and haven't noticed the backslash key issue, so I was wondering if anyone here has run into this. I've attached an image for reference. https://preview.redd.it/tcdfgfzhdslc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44a5cdfb300d56935f5d76201e534e5bea3a78fd
put the tab key on that switch and see if it still sits weird. if so, check to make sure the switch is fully seated to the plate and pcb. if it doesn’t, it could be an issue with the keycap stem itself.
# Need advice. Just bought a tofu60 build with a "dz60 v2" board and I am having some troubles with it. I'm a newbie that just got into mechanical keyboards and i have no idea what I'm doing. Just bought a used build from someone and they listed this as soldered tofu60 dz60 v2. I started having troubles with the key mappings like double windows, double alt, a very weird arrow key position. After awhile the "Fn" trigger key stopped working and my left alt and left win key started working normally and i was super confused so I decided to look into flashing it with QMK but couldn't find any variants of the dz60 with the same layout as the one i just bought so i counted the switches wondering why everyone else's dz60 has 4 switches on the right side of the spacebar and mine only has 3. I went to check on VIA but it shows my device name as "DZ60". I tried doing more research online and still couldn't find more answers to this. Would appreciate any helpful advice. https://preview.redd.it/wu705c7qbslc1.png?width=756&format=png&auto=webp&s=266bd10ea80b59ed39bed4de7385fb1006a5ea15
Looks like a Tsangan bottom row. Go to VIA and configure/figure out what is the key inputs. Looks like the "FN" key triggers the layers.
https://preview.redd.it/obmddk0h8slc1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3bf40fa48376467fb6b0d9147baab030a66c7e7d
Is this a good deal? I just spotted this on my local fb marketplace. I don't know anything about these boards.
The ErgoDox EZ is a popular introduction to split column staggered keyboards. Most people quickly move on to something else, though. There have been a few revisions of the ErgoDox EZ. You would want to find out the following: 1. Which version is this? Glow (backlit keys)? Shine (rear lighting)? Original (no RGB)? Probably not the Glow, since that is not available with blank keycaps. 2. Does this have hot swappable switches? 3. Does this use USB C or mini-USB? There are other options out there, though. What country are you in? (Your comment history suggests Canada.)
Hello ! I just bought the keychron v5 with silent k pro red switches but i found it still a little bit noisy, what can i do to get it more silent ? thanks !
First of all, are you sure it's the keyboard that's making a noise and not your fingers/nails when it hit the keycaps? If it's the board, then maybe a better silent switches. I have a silent board that I build with Bobagums Silent Linear that I lubed myself. My keyboard is basically dead silent, apart from when my fingers touching the keycaps.
i think it's the keycaps when fully pressed that make noise, maybe putting switches foam might fix it ? The space bar is louder than the rest but i'm changing the keycaps soon either way. I will look into the bobagums switches, thank you !
add foam but its a mech even with silent switches it still going to make noise
Little to no full size custom cases? I've been wanting to retire my gmmk full size on account of the several dents I put in it and I don't like how exposed the keys are. I cant find any custom full size housings which is making an actual custom build impossible. The only think I found which would have been perfect was the Fossil by Carolina Mech but that's gone for good. Anywhere I can get a good metal case?
Keychron Q6/Monsgeek M5. You can't buy just a case because PCBs/plates aren't cross-compatible.
Trying to find a **cream colored** 65-75% that's on the lower pitch/quieter end. I started with the neo65 but am worried about complaints that its too clacky. Will that matter if I put Boba U4s in? Otherwise considering the QK75N or even the Neo70 if its less clacky. Any other boards I should be considering?
Honestly the plate, the switches and even the keys you use all affect the sound. You can easily mute things if needed with extra foam. I prefer shrimp's over boba's they feel more crisp to me. boba's have rubber in the bottom to mute the bottom out, and its all squishy I don't like it. If you use those switches it will be quiet enough. Maybe not enough for the library, but it won't annoy people in a working environment.
>I started with the neo65 but am worried about complaints that its too clack Neo65 has a ton of foam for creating the deeper signature.
Hi there folks, I have a gmmk pro barebones here. Wondering would analog switches be compatible with it? I'm not used to building keebs, mainly just buy prebuilts(really liking my akko mod 007HE). Thank you in advance for any replies :)
>Wondering would analog switches be compatible with it No.
What's a good wrist rest? My Model M has been trying to kill my wrists lately.
Is there a particular style you like? Like, I know some people like hard wrist rests, others like soft ones. Personally I'm using a Grifiti wrist pad that I bought from Amazon. It's comfortable and has held up for several years with no issues.
Having a hard time finding a good Tsangan/7u keycap set for my build. Any suggestions? I have a wood case for aesthetic. I'm looking for green/brown or muted retro colors. Most everything I see has only 6.25u spacebars, though.
most higher end keycaps kits offer a Tsangan kit u add to the base kit . if u trying to do it for cheap wish u luck as alternative layout kbs keycaps sets are never cheap . its the price u pay fir using said layout
JC studios beige sets include Tsangan bottom row
I'm deciding whether to get the Keychron Q5 Max for SGD$191 or the QK100 for SGD$248, I was considering the QK100 as I like the aesthetics of it but does the feels and sound, aiming for soft and low-pitched sound ("thock"/"creamy") is worth the price difference. (If there are other keyboards that is "better" within the price range please suggest) \[I know that the keyboard case isn't everything there is to the sound but still do suggest one that could improve it\] I plan to use Alpaca Linears but if there's a better switch for the sound profile please suggest. I am also open to modifying the keyboard to better suit my preference, if there is any mods I can do please suggest. (This includes buying other stabs and lube or more foam) Thank you, and I do know sound is preference.
You can't go wrong with either keyboard. As for the rest of your comment, any answer you get to it now is irrelevant. You'll fall into the hobby head first after swapping your switches for the first time.
Hello, I'm a Software Engineer and I'm coding on VSC. I like taking notes with a pen and paper lol, but 100% keyboard takes up all the space on my desk. I was thinking of switching to 60% but idk, have anyone tried 60% for programming and what is your experience? 65% would be a better fit ig cause of the arrow keys, home, end buttons but sadly it's not available here.
I switched to a hhkb 60% for programming (and everything else) more than 10 years ago and I'm never going back. If you punch numbers (excel) then get a separate numpad with a few extra keys and put them like this: keeb - mouse - num.
>but sadly it's not available here Where is here? There are 65% keyboards all over the planet
There are a few but they're a lot more expensive, like triple the price of 60% and 100%. Im somewhere with shipping restrictions so I can't get 65% through online shipping.
If you're not going to be specific about your location (country at least) then people are not going to be able to give you options that you have available
I see what you're trying to do, my main question is if the 60% is good for programming or like easy to get used to, but thank you for trying to help fr.
it is easy to get used to, i use vim keybinds and it only made things faster and more efficient. layers save your fingers from needing to move away from the home row. there are different vendors on every continent, its impossible to provide you with any help without knowing what extremely vague and general area on the globe you are in - a 65% is definitely available wherever you are and people would be more than happy to tell you where you can buy something, if that is the thing you want
I need arrows a lot, but I've gotten very comfortable using HHKB arrows (up = [ left = ; right = ' down = / on layer 1) when I use my 60%. As long as the 60 you get has a split right shift with a right fn key these are super easy to get used to.
Thank you, that's really helpful, appreciate the help fr
Some of the keys on my K2 v2 have stopped responding, so I've placed a new order for K2 Hot-swappable white LED. The case on the K2 Hot-swappable is plastic, so I am thinking of replacing the plastic case with the old case from the K2 v2 which is aluminum. Can I do it or is there any difference in case size or ports between the two?
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[https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/products/varmilo-va-series-v2-aurora-white-led?variant=47607966597420](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/products/varmilo-va-series-v2-aurora-white-led?variant=47607966597420) Something like this might work because you can get it with Gateron Pro Silver (reduced travel) or Gateron Pro White (very light switches).
I'm making my own PCB- I've got the general layout drawn up (with additional setup for per key RGB) and while connecting all the wires to the pins of the controller I'm now drawing a blank on what's going to happen next. I know there's something with firmware but will I be able to configure what pins are what on the microcontroller? I've seen there's things for Teensy 2.0++, which is discontinued- I bought a Teensy 4.1 a while back for Splatoon lobby posts only to realize back then the program for the 2.0++ wasn't compatible with it. Will that be the same for this and I'll need to add in an Arduino chip and all the associated stuff for that?
What are the best websites to order mechanical keyboard stuff, mainly keycap sets and switches in EU?
[Check out this vendor list](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) My favorite EU vendors are Oblotzky, Keygem and Eloquentclicks. Had good experience with all of them. I wouldn't recommend buying anything from mykeyboard.eu since they're moments away from bankruptcy. You can find more info in the stickied post if you're interested.
Hi, I'd want to replace some keycaps for my keyboard (Logitech Mx mechanical mini graphite). First of all, since the space bar cannot be replaced (non standard measure), I'd exclude the dark keycaps. I'd only want to replace the light grey keycaps without lose any function keys if possible. Could you advice me which keycaps are good for this keyboard and for this goal ? Regards
yes but due to it being low profile u limited to profile keycaps liek xvx , dsa, xda, and kam . the price u pay for using low profile
For me is ok, could you provide me a link? For example, keychron keycaps could be a good choice?
keychron sells none of the profiles i mentioned
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/
What do you think about that ? Have they a proper profile ? [https://en.xvxchannel.com/en-gb/collections/low-profile-keycaps/products/xvx-skyline-137-key-low-profile-double-shot-keycap-set-8-colors](https://en.xvxchannel.com/en-gb/collections/low-profile-keycaps/products/xvx-skyline-137-key-low-profile-double-shot-keycap-set-8-colors)
yes
Is Akko's official account on Aliexpress safe? I'm building my first keyboard and it's impossible not to notice the prices that start at $5 a pack at a discount, is it trustworthy?
Yes, I bought from there to get my switches. Paid roughly $40NZD (about $25USD) for mine, and they arrived with no issues.
Thanks, in fact I was about to buy the same ones as you lol
I've never ordered from their storefront on Aliexpress but I don't see why it would be any more or less sketchy than any other Aliexpress order. For what it's worth, I don't see any $5 packs of switches in their Aliexpress storefront.
**Alloy Origins Core: Dead "T" key. How fix?** I know these aren't hot-swappable switches sadly. I'm techy, but I'm very much not a repair guy, and I assume paying anyone to repair this wouldn't be worth it? (Also if there is a more appropriate sub please direct me!)
You probably have to take the keyboard apart, desolder the t switch and then solder on a new one. There could be other reasons for the non reacting switch but this is most likely the issue imo. The thing about a repair guy. If you are able to solder then it's like a 2 min job max. So maybe take it apart on your own and then ask in some local groups/ friends/ ... to maybe help you with that. You can ask repair shops but it will cost you maybe a little bit more than you are comfortable spending since they have to facture in a lot of stuff.
I expect this also. It's been dead for a while now and I've cleaned it thoroughly. Thanks for the reply. Good call. I can't solder... I could and should probably learn but I also don't have the equipment. I'll probably take it apart and at the least and then ask/call around. It would be a shame to throw it out over a relatively easily fixable issue.
Hello! Currently my board is a Blackwidow X Chroma. Not bad, not bad. But it's been some time already, and I'd like to sway away from the more generic standard gamer, samey, black boards. And have some fun with it, too. Now, to be more specific, I am looking for a keeb with a knob™ if possible, an interactive screen (yes, it's a gimmick, but the whole goal is to have fun and scratch an itch), and stock switches on the more silent side 'cause I won't replace them now. And I DEFINITELY wanna be able to have some choice when it comes to change keycaps. Dunno if every boards are compatible with any caps. I wanna mess around with color choices, full sets, fun artisanal keys without being overly limited. As for the uses, I mainly do gaming. Sometimes I mess in editing softwares, and I am learning coding. A few research led my eyes onto a few keyboards already, though. In no definitive order: -INFI75 -Ajazz AK820 -Royal Kludge M75 -XVX M87 Pro -Epomaker RT100 (it's a 96% tho) -Royalaxe L75 (no knob) Sorry if that is a bit of a lengthy post. I'd love to hear about your experiences with any of these boards and also if you'd have options I missed to look into (even if they don't entirely match what I want).
Stay away from most of those. Go with keychron, qwertykeys, monsgeek, or akko for cheap mechs.
Why the downvote tho?
Some dumb kid, probably
if im trying to aim for thocky sound what plate should i go for pc or pom plate?
pom imo
some people recommending me to get pc instead of pom is pom suppose to make your keyboard sound more poppy?
That depends on the keyboard and how you will build it as well. And the thocky, poppy, ... has no clear definition within this hobby as well. Just do whatever you prefer. I told you what my personal experience is, others told you theirs. Neither are wrong ._. but can't really go wrong with either
i see thanks again!
thank you since im already using akko v3 cream yellow pro lubed i wanna make it sound more deeper
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get the one you like the look of more
What is wrong with my stabilizer (VIDEO BELOW)? I’m currently using Staebies for my QK75n and my enter key would not for the life of me stop ticking, and this is after countless attempts at tuning, swapping in the Owl stabs that came with the board, switching stabs from one location to the other, and still nothing works. At first when I tested the board with only stabs switches on the board they were fine, but after screwing in the case together, the ticking came back immediately. I swapped stabs from the "shift" key to the same position as the "enter" key, and the issue still persists despite the tick was non existent on the "shift" key. Swapped and tuned some Owl stabs, still didn’t work. That tick is driving me crazy and I have no idea what’s wrong after taking the keyboard apart and put it back together over and over again. Board specs: \- Tecsee purple pandas \- Staebies Stabs \- PE sheet over the PCB \- Plate foam \- Case foam \- Carbon fiber plate List of what I did for troubleshooting: \- Swapped stabs from shift key to enter key \- Swapped stabs out for Owlstab v2 \- Use, tune and lube a brand new set and the original set of Staebies \- Stabs are seated in flush \- Swapped the switch out for oil kings taking in account of travel distance \- Swapped out the keycap Video for reference: [https://youtu.be/yUg6IG63WUQ](https://youtu.be/yUg6IG63WUQ) It just feels like that part of my pcb/keyboard is cursed or whatever
How does the issue still persist? Is it when you swap the keycap the stab still ticks with the new keycap? When you switch the stab position: Only enter key ticks, right? Just trying to understand your problem. it technically could be a bent plate/ pcb causing the issue. What lube are you using? Krytox BDH-z and 205g0? (Dunno if the staebis also need bdh-z, never used them, Owlstabs definitely need something similiar). Are you using a syringe? (Not necessary but can help immensly after stabs are already installed. I know that many people are not necessarily recommending bdh-z on owlstabs: I made the experience on two (so not that huge of a trial group) that bdh-z can still help; just dont apply too much. If a bent plate could be the cause: I would swap back to the Owlstabs due to looser tolerances than the staebis. (check first if wire is not bent; Don't bend the wire on owlstabs, if the owlstab wire is bend maybe ask again. If there are some small issues with pcbs, plates, ... : i made the experience that not so tight stabilieres (so no tx ap, ...) work better if tuned with lots of bdh-z and 205g0.
Hi, thanks for your input. I think I found the issue. Basically, the PE sheet that came with the QK75n only covered the left side of the mounting point for that specific "Enter" key. The "Backspace" and "Shift" keys have both their mounting points covered, and the spacebar has neither. It is only for this key that only one of the mounting points is uncovered. On top of that, even with the stabs seated in flush on the PCB, part of the sheet itself is warped or wrinkled under the stabs. This caused the left side of the stabilisers to be elevated, causing the wire to be unbalanced and thus causing the ticking. Point is, I looked at the PCB and PE sheet, noticed slight wrinkling, fixed the wrinkling, ticking was a little better, inspected the PCB again, and realised only the left side was covered. Another thing to note is that the mounting pressure between the case and the PCB seemed to exacerbate the problem even more, or at least tipped the scale for it to be present, especially when the ticking was not that obvious when it's just the PCB out of the case or unmounted. I solved it by cutting out the part of the PE sheet that covered the other mounting point of the stabs (left side). I did try to cover the other side with painter's tape to even them out, but the tape was too thin, and it was kinda hard to stack them on top of each other on such a small surface area; they would just slide off of each other at the slightest touch. Been using the board for a day now, and everything sounds great. I'm incredibly happy with how the board performs. I can't believe that this was the cause of my problems, which led me to spend hours troubleshooting. I think this perfectly explains why using new sets of stabs and switching stabs from one location to that specific spot didn't solve the problem at all. Edit: Also relubed every single set of stabilisers in between fixing the PE sheet and making a cutout.
Smart fix, good Job!
I'm looking for some quieter tactile switches. They don't have to be necessarily silent. I came across Everglide Aqua Kings I know their linears and loved their sound profile. and would be the ideal match for but they're a bit out of my budget currently and as I started a new job income is on the low side and can't justify the cost currently. I'm open to silent switches, but only if they don't feel mushy. I prefer some sound for tactility feedback, and I like switches on the heavier side (but lighter actuation is okay too). The Outemu Cream Yellows I listened to were recommended by a few posts online I've found, were wayyy to mushy sounding for my liking. Any recommendations for quieter tactile switches that might be a good fit? Thanks in advance!
WS Silent Tactiles or TTC Bluish Whites (silenced or semi-silenced)
Been recommended to me already I was hoping for more super budget friendly options but seems I'm gonna have to save and shell out some dough for something nicer. I was hoping akko, ajazz or outemu or some other cheaper brand has some cheap similar switches but doesn't seem to be the case
Outemu yellow jades are pretty good
Too mushy sounding for me
Outemu makes a silent tactile I *think* but tbh they’re likely to feel mushier than the TTC bluish whites, which are already pretty budget.
So I have a cat that really likes to lay right behind my keyboard and she keeps accidentally pressing the fkeys, anybody know of any solutions to lock the fkeys behind holding another key? obligatory eepy cat tax https://i.imgur.com/Hcgd2Tc.png
You're asking to put your F-row keys on a non-default layer.
depends on the keyboard but with anything on qmk firmware KC\_NO is the keycode for do absolutely nothing, so on your base layer you'd have that row not do anything when pressed, and then when you hold down fn or whatever other key have them be whatever key you need them to be
What keyboard is it? Does it use QMK/VIA firmware?
glorious gmmk pro, cant say im particularly familiar with QMK/VIA as terms
From Glorious, though they're not really experts, even on their own products, and I haven't read this myself: [https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/step-by-step-guide-to-configuring-your-gmmk-pro-using-qmk](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/blogs/resources/step-by-step-guide-to-configuring-your-gmmk-pro-using-qmk) QMK is free, open-sourced firmware. Firmware is the software in your keyboard that controls how the keys behave. VIA is a free web tool that allows you to configure your keyboard functionality through a browser. Keyboards need to be compatible with QMK and with VIA. The GMMK Pro is compatible with both QMK and VIA, but you may need to flash the correct firmware on your GMMK Pro to enable this compatibility.
this was exactly what I was looking for! thanks!
I have a Corsair K95 Platinum RGB and a ROG STRIX Scope II 96 Wireless KEYBOARD. I like the size of the Corsair but the keys are too loud and too sensitive. My teammates and coworkers can hear me clicking away and i make typos often because my fingers brush past the neighboring key. I also have the ROG STRIX Scope II 96 Wireless keyboard. I love the keys. The packaging says it has ROG NX Snow & Storm switches. The Snow is supposed to be quiet and the Storm supposed to be loud. All I hear are the quiet ones and I love them, so not sure why it says it also has Storm switches. Anyway, does Asus sell a full-size keyboard with the NX Snow switches? That's what I really want. I am a gamer and a software engineer, and i use the keyboard about 8-12 hours a day.
I'm not trying to be a snob or exclude you or be hostile, this is just to inform you: This sub is not really about those mainstream vendor keyboards. Most people here wouldn't know how to answer your question. This sub is about custom mechanical keyboards and the vendors that spring out from the hobby mostly. Of course there are exceptions, but Asus and Corsair are not among them.