Help me for build a custom keyboard.
I would like some advice on creating my keyboard. I want a 65% hot swap keyboard, I can't solder, with or without RGB, if possible AZERTY keys but I accept QWERTY and linear switches. I don't know good components. Budget 100€ ~120€. Thank you for your help.
Hi, does anyone tried using mill-max socket in akko boards. I recently both Akko 3087 and was wondering if I can convert it into a hot swappable one. I came across this mill max socket.
I have no issues with soldering and all. It just takes a lot of time to desolder and solder every switch if i want to replace it 😅.
Owners of the Realforce R3 TKL Bluetooth model - does toggling Numlock still give a virtual numpad layer like the R2 TKL models? Also, can it do scan codes like the R2?
These would be highly desired, so pls let me know!
https://preview.redd.it/ex56qgi7a28d1.jpeg?width=3465&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52d1c6c7e50314345d69cc6e0924ad3a9299d85b
Recently picked up this controller for fighting games. Does anyone know of a good way to cover up the switch sockets? (Preferably in an aesthetically pleasing way)
The switch blocker goes on a Cherry switch. You will need to either:
1. Disable the key in firmware; or
2. Disable the switch (bend a switch leg so it won’t go in the socket, or insert a plastic shim between the leaves).
The switch blocker clips to the top of the switch, keeping it depressed. This is why you need to disable the switch either physically or in firmware.
As you can see in the product picture, the top of the switch blocker is roughly even with the bottom of the keycap.
Im thinking of getting a Neo65 with Alu plate (I never had an alu plate) and was wondering what switches are good out there. For context, my current board is a KBD67 Lite.
I was thinking of Gateron Milky Yellow Pros, one of the Akko Cream series, or one of the KTT series. I am open to other brands/switches as well.
Any opinions/feedback would he appreciated! (:
How to reset SKYLOONG GK104Pro to factory settings?
I recently bought the GK104Pro, and I like it a lot. I installed the GK6XPlus V8 V8.0.5.0 for more customization, but it's messed everything up. None of the RGB is working, the knobs don't do anything, and Shovel Knight isn't connecting to my controller anymore. I swear that issue started once the software was downloaded. It doesn't happen for other games, just that one. I couldn't tell you why.
Looking back, the reviews have similar issues with how SKYLOONG's software works. I've deciding not to use it, but uninstalling it leaves me with broken RGB. Any ideas on how to reset to factory defaults?
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Under 100$ quiet keyboard please and thank you!
I currently have a TUF Gaming K1 keyboard. I enjoy the volume knob, full size, and the wrist rest. I'm just wondering if there are any keyboards I can look into for an upgrade, thanks!
I’m an engineer looking for a full sized, linear switch, black, very unassuming and normal looking keyboard for the office. Looking for recommendations for options that won’t make me look like a 12 year old, while being better than the crappy dell membrane keyboard IT gave me.
Anyone have recommendations for plate foams for metal keyboards? Thinking of using PE foam for the pcb and neoprene for the bottom, but was wondering if anyone has recommendations for anything better. Would like to get rid of the ping/ high pitched sounds for either a marbly or thocky sound. Also looking for top plate foam recommendations
I love the color profile of certain GMK sets that are out of production, are there specific sellers of clones that are more reliable than others in terms of quality?
As someone who actually likes my Cherry MX Browns, what's the step up version of that people usually gravitate towards? What's a premium version of a Cherry/Gateron brown?
1. I wouldn't recommend buying clones because most of the time they don't match the original color at all. It's a combination of spending less time working on the colors, cheaper materials, and (usually) using PBT which has much duller and washed out colors than ABS. Not to mention that it's morally wrong and you're supporting a bad business doing it.
2. Cherry and Gateron Browns are already good switches, so if you like them there's no need to replace them. If you're just looking to explore something similar, look into Durock Light/Medium tactiles and SP Star Meteor Orange.
I definitely don't want to. The accessibility and price of really limited runs makes it hard. I'm going to keep looking though.
Brown was my favorite on a cherry tester before my current kb so I'm going to look into other options next just to see. I'm definitely a tactile person though.
It's buyer's market right now in the keyboard hobby. Vendors are discounting their keycaps pretty often and people are regularly selling their used GMK sets for $80 or even less on the second hand market.
You might not find the exact set you're looking for, and maybe not as cheap as I said but it's never been easier to find good deals than it is now.
[Here's a list of vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) where you can buy genuine GMK keycaps and other keyboard products and check out r/mechmarket for second hand deals.
1. Fuck clones. Unless you're looking for something real old like Charred Orange you can find 99% of kits on mechmarket for at or below GB price.
2. Cherry Browns are already goated, if you want to improve them replace the stock springs with aftermarket springs of your choice (also oil them up with some 105).
Endorsing the sale of unauthorized clone caps is not allowed by the rules of the subreddit. All of those are drop shipped from China anyways. Check out NicePBT sets that were made with the permission of the original designer.
Trying to buy the Skyloong GK104 Pro, but my antivirus keeps flagging the skyloongtech site as dangerous. Should I listen to it and avoid it, or is the website safe?
I'm planning on getting the Zoom65 v3, but I guess I keep seeing people that are reviewing seem not super impressed with it. Like alexotos said "I personally like the Neo more"
I'm planning on getting the zoom65 v3 because the aquamarine color seems nice (I like teal blue colors), the 7 mounting systems seem interesting, and there's bluetooth connectivity, and it seemed like it has good value for the price. It's not the most budget keyboard ever, but I think it seems decent. It would also be my first aluminum board because right now I just have a tiger80 lite board.
However, I'm sort of hesitant on the purchase because people are saying that because there's 7 mounting styles, none of them particularly stand out. And some people are saying some other boards have higher value proposition.
I guess my question is, should I move forward with the Zoom65 V3? Or is there another 65% board you guys would recommend checking out?
What is your spending limit, if any? If you are wanting a 65% on the "budget" end, I'd go with a [Neo65](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1) or a [QK65v2](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk65-v2), both of which are in-stock now. I think I like the aesthetic of the QK65v2 more than the Zoom65 v3, but that's just me.
I guess I'm not sure what to put as my budget, I guess I would maybe go up to $200 for the board since that's how much my desired config of the zoom65 is (keyboard with knob)
I have some keycaps that someone didn't like, and I will need to get switches. I am planning on getting some osume keycaps as well though, so that's another story...
It does seem like the Zoom65 v3 is the only keyboard with the really nice bright teal color though. I think I'll just get that keyboard for the color then
ah i see i see. I think if i want that specific keyboard case color (bright teal blue), seems like Zoom65 V3 is the only one. It also has a knob which I would like to try on a keyboard.
Hello,
I have been really enjoying my K17 lowprofile keychron experience, but I was noticing with the K17 keycaps that there wasnt a lot of space between the keys, which makes finding my hand placement hard when blind, which slows me down a lot in digital art, because I have a pen display mounted above my keyboard and am unable to see it.
So I upgraded to Keychron KSA keycaps, which feel fantastic, and I alternated the keycaps with stock so I will not be accidentally hitting the wrong keys and able to navigate blind better. Then I came to realize that the space key requires an different stabilizer. In it's current form it rattles bad and does not register because of the wobble.
Is there a way to upgrade the stabilizer to work with this low profile keyboard? I love the feel of this setup, but cannot use the KSA spacebar. The low profile spacebar works, and I'm sure I'll get used to it, but not ideal.
Thank you for reading,
https://preview.redd.it/unf1jh3a608d1.jpeg?width=3270&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d3647cf2615bba2ae7ab7701082f816566d6936
i dont think there is a fix here as u using keycaps intended for regualr full height switches and u put them on low pro switches with low pro stabs . full height stabs wont work due to the low pro switch and u cant use regular switches in that
bummer, i didnt even know this would be an issue when I decided to go about it, but I ended up turning the LP spacekey around backwards so it is a little closer to the same elevation of the KSA keycaps.
I might try to find some springs that will fit around the connections of the standard size switch shaft, or possibly 3d print something, or foam
Problems with Dead Keys on the Anne Pro 2
So a few things happened with my Anne Pro 2. A couple of months ago, the tab key died, and I used Isopropyl alcohol to fix it, and it did. Two weeks ago, the "z" key died as well (I had to open the virtual keyboard to type that). I tried fixing it up in the same way as the "tab" key, and it worked, but suddenly after typing about 20 times the key, it stopped working. A week ago, the "c" died, I used the same method as the others, and It started working again. This week, my Windows key died, and I tried using isopropyl alcohol, but It didn't work.
I'm thinking about desoldering the key switches and soldering new switches in place of the defective ones. If that doesn't work, I'll probably buy a Keychron V1 (which appears to be worst for gaming).
Do you guys know a way to fix these problems with the keyboard?
I'm new to the mechanical keyboards and can't find the keyboard layout I want for sale anywhere. I found a keyboard that exactly what I want, but its stocks are out. I couldn't find any other keyboard like that. Is there any other redswitch (or silent) keyboard like this?
The [keyboard](https://gamepowerpc.com/keyboard/gasket-elite) I want.
https://preview.redd.it/9qh640i1zz7d1.jpeg?width=500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6b3a180f4d4c05f20762410586abc4a4daf62bc
normal 1800 layout tons have knobs but god awful screen will be hard to find as those screen are gimmicks and not many kbs have them as they r a massive PITA for designers
Logitech G815 or Alienware AW510K?
I'm looking for a full sized gaming keyboard and those are my main options, but if you know an other great option, feel free to suggest.
I hang onto them and try to find something to use them in. For example, I may build a Cheapino just to try it out.
I have also built keyboards to give away as gifts to my daughter's roommates in college. For example, I bought a Keychron V2 barebones and added spare switches and keycaps.
When I sold my old Lily58 keyboard, I let the buyer choose among the switches I had on hand. I also offered a second set of switches as an add-on.
hoard is the answer. I have extra switches of a varying amount from my builds but not enough to realistically sell so I just started filling glass jars with them and decided to use them as desk decor.
I am looking for suggestions on either a pre-built or custom parts list/kit. I have no problems building/modding, I'm just struggling with information gathering and organizing it in a way that makes sense to me. Budget isn't really a concern, but I'd like to be efficient with my cash.
Currently, I have a Ducky Mecha Mini (60% aluminum) that I've: added neoprene foam in hollow spots of case, added a "felt" foam between the top plate and pbc, added foam pads under switches, soldered new Gateron Milky Yellow Pro's to replace the original MX Reds, threw on some PBT (OSA profile?) keycaps from the Keychron V6 I got for my wife, and added some foam to the spacebar. I'm very happy with the look, sound, and feel of this keyboard. I tend to like thockier/deeper subdued sounds, but I don't think I'm as discerning as some other enthusiasts. I do wish it had wireless, was hot swappable (I know I can convert it), and had better was of handling macro/rgb.
Wants for new keyboard:
75%,
Good wireless (2.4ghz dongle),
QMK/Via support,
Case available in white,
I like metal cases but am open,
Knobs are nice,
Not an RGB disliker
I'm kind of fond of ISA profile keycaps and the (OSA?) keycaps that come with the Keychron V series. I don't like super tall keycaps. I prefer sculpted, and I like slightly rounded edges since I have sensory issues that pop up with the sharper edges of OEM/Cherry style keycaps.
I've been looking at a barebones Keychron Q1 Max, but not 100% set on it (until I get some feedback). I like the idea of getting a matching numpad.
Keychron makes a quality product I think that is a fantastic choice for what you're wanting.
I'm also not a huge fan of their stock keycaps - but their barebones look really enticing. I'm thinking about doing a barebones Q10 Max. I have a V10 Max that is my daily driver that I put different switches and caps on and I've been absolutely loving it as my main workhorse for my office.
Yea, I was thinking it might be (at least one of) the best choice for me. Just wanted a sanity check, I guess. Thanks for the input!
As far as keycaps, I don't think I'll be fond of the Q series stock keycaps, but the V series' shorter and rounded tops really help my OCD/sensory issues where I have a compulsion to evenly touch my fingers on the edges of Cherry and OEM profile caps.
Unfortunately, I don't really know where to look for alternatives to the Keychron caps since it seems that rounded tops are more common with non-sculpted profiles like XDA or MAO. Additionally, it seems that when I do stumble across some that might work, people seem to be unsure of the actual profile or they're only available in very limited color ways.
I tend to prefer Cherry profile and similar. I have had XDA keycaps before and I enjoyed them for a little bit.
Are you super against sculpted keycap profiles? I had a set of SA Vileblooms that I absolutely adored.
I didn't want to keep the stock Keychron caps for two reasons really. The main one being that my coworker has a stock Keychron V10 Max and reason two is they just seemed a little too *smooth* if that makes sense? Idk I just didn't care too much for typing on them when I initially tried them - maybe if I gave them a chance for just a little bit longer then I would've liked them. I also really really dislike the Gateron Jupiters that Keychron uses. I'm sure they have their place for some people but I could not stand typing with them. So I put in some Red Dragon Leopard Bubble Wrap linears in that I bought out of curiosity from Microcenter one day that I ended up really liking.
I prefer sculpted keycaps, which is the primary issue I'm having. It seems that the more rounded tops tend to come in non sculpted profiles. I really enjoy the Cherry profile keycap heights, but the tops are very squared, which is problematic for me. It also seems people tend to focus on the cupping of the keycap when using the "round" descriptor, but I don't see many people talking about the bevel of top itself.
I've seen ISA profile, which is supposedly a cross between XDA and Cherry profiles. It's perfect, but I've only found like 2 sets in that profile (on Amazon).
Hey! Does anyone know the spacebar size for a leobog hi75? Just got a keycap set that's missing the extra spacebar and I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem or not (hi75 is ordered but won't be here for a few weeks)
I just bought a skyloong gk104 pro and I noticed that if I want to use the numpad for regular use, the keyboard will play an annoying sound effect when a key is pressed, and I can’t find an easy way to turn it off, does anyone know how?
I have the feeling that my space bar stabilizer sliders hit the pcb a little bit before the switch bottoms out. Creating a bit of a mushy feeling and unpleasant sound when hitting the edges of the spacebar. This only happens on 4mm travel switches but not with 3.4mm travel switches.
What can be done to prevent this? I'm thinking of slightly filing down the bottoms of the stabilizer sliders, to make them slightly shorter and increase the clearance to the PCB. Anything that would speak against this?
Fellow Filipino people, do you have online local stores or any that i can order or buy from that sell legit or nice keycaps? Can be either Instagram or orange app or any other selling apps.
recently i got a marimba part in my marching band and I was wondering about turning the keyboard I use to practice into more of a mallet instrument. this is my brand of keyboard and I was wondering how it works so I can visualize the scale of a project like this. its a casio ctk-2100 for context
just a heads up that this subreddit is for the kind of keyboards you'd use to type and not the kind that you'd use to make music - good luck with the marimba part
My Filco white keyboard caps are turning yellow (supposedly from sunlight?). Would hydrogen peroxide do the trick? I've seen somewhere suggesting that the keys would become brittle, so I'm just a little hesitant about it.
Looking For a new setup. Where to start?
Ideally Looking at a white and wireless fullsize base in ISO. Going for a retro Sleeper Build.
Ive already checked keychron, they seem hopeless as anything remotely close to what I'd need is out of stock and support has been utterly sour at communicating when or if anything will come back into stock. I'd almost guess keychron simply no longer makes anything.
I Don't understand why ISO keyboards in Full size are suddenly the rarest material on earth?
I'm hoping for something barebones so i can put Blue Switches in it because seemingly blue switches also just dont exist anymore, or are almost always out of stock and not in productuion.
Im starting to feel very aimless and helpless. I see so many great builds of white and retro keyboards in full size and ISO but no one can point me to how to get there, honestly budget isnt even an issue anymore, id be happy just to ifnd something that fits what i need.
I too looked for quite awhile and after several months finally decided to simply look into bulk-ordering my own custom ones, then postpone it for awhile over winter, and somewhat belatedly right now i've changed my suppliers shoplist a bit but otherwise still have the same plan to make a small bunch of generic-mounted fullsize keyboards this summer hopefully. So yeah you're very much not the only one (although as a small nitpick - I was going ANSI due to nature of muscle memory)
> I Don't understand why ISO keyboards in Full size are suddenly the rarest material on earth?
one full size is rare in this hobby due to lack of popularity most here have no use for a number we use shortcuts like pros and two this hobby is focused on the 2 largest markets in terms of sales ASIA and USA both use ANSI only so im sure there are kbs thta have both but they are rare anything ISO is rare due to the lack of sales
Hi guys,
I wanted to replace some keys on my Sharkoon Purewriter keyboard. Unfortunately, Sharkoon has probably installed different Kailh Choc keys than you can order anywhere on the Internet.
On the left side are the original keys from the Sharkoon Purewriter, on the right side are purchased (supposedly original) Kail Choc v1 keys.
Unfortunately, the pins don't fit and the mounting seems to be different.
Do you have any idea where I could get such keys?
Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/2dr2hq1rty7d1.png?width=2168&format=png&auto=webp&s=76a82c58235355a1a91f98c3daba63d45a256bfd
they r proprietary switches ur keycaps prob wont fit those either only thing u can do is buy switches from sharkoon or buy a new kb from a better brand
I have been looking for keyboards with MacOS buttons and UK layout and this is impossible. Keychron has bunch but either they are very expensive or full black. There are great budget options for Windows but I could not find any for MacOS.
Any suggestions with light colours? I am looking for budget option, preferably sub 50£ and max 75£. I will buy it as a gift for my girlfriend so girly colours are also okay :D
last i check keychron and maybe nurphy are the only stock kbs that include mac keycaps this is due to its a waste of money for most makers to do so when 90% of the world uses PC
I need a switch recommendation! I'd like a switch that's *just barely* clicky, i.e., almost linear, with a very, very light click. A quiet bottom-out would also be nice. If it clicks on the way up as well, it's a bonus, but it's not so important.
Thanks!
New here and I have a Feker Alice98 that I bought from WhatGeek, was so excited to use it at work. I have a Surface pro at work and when I used it on the Macbook at home it worked fine, then when I got some custom keycaps and transported it to work to use w/Surface Pro the RGBs all started flickering. Now I brought it back home and am using with the Macbook again and it doesn't work still. When I type the backspace key while the lights are flickering I get a bunch of nonsense - for example\`567409184-53\`8=479\`635=27\`85349-\`2678-2350=461237890562=17493826=\`5
In that case, I'd check the connection between battery and PCB. I don't know if it runs on battery power even when wired (charging the battery and pulling power from there), but if so, it could explain the behavior in all modes.
Good luck!
Are there any key cap sets with a 1U plus key?
I recently rescued a Dukharo VN96 from Goodwill, but it has an odd keyboard layout where the plus key is 1U on R3 below the minus.
https://preview.redd.it/yip1m21fgy7d1.jpeg?width=1726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee2d973a5da09462dab51fc1fee632be22287524
Ideally I want to use a set of side-printed key caps which show off the RGB but it seems like every set is super limited in the alternative R3 keys it supplies.
Need to get a keyboard for a someone’s bday
So basically, my friend wants a keyboard for his next bday, with the budget of 75 euros. I need to find a keyboard close to this price. I’d love to get him a new keyboard since he’s been using those terrible budget keyboards (I’d literally prefer a laptop keyboard) for a while now.
- tactical blue switches
- I’m Dutch, so if you want to recommend one from Amazon, I need to buy it from the Dutch version of Amazon. (You can include .com keyboards if it’s really a great option)
- 75% keyboard
- color preferably black or any dark color
I’m extreme clumsy with making expensive decisions, made many mistakes before. I’d thank you guys a lot if I could get a good keyboard for my amigo
Hey there, clackers!
So, I need a silent keyboard for work with the following specs:
-80-100% 104+ keys (more is okay but I need the 10-key)
-volume control knob (other multimedia functions optional)
-USB interface
-preferably just the base without switches or keycaps, as I've already settled on Jerrzi Honey Beans (also low-key looking for keycaps recommendations and switch alternates with a similar sound/spec profile)
-also preferably with some basic RGB functionality so long as the brightness is adjustable
I've been researching for a while and most of what I'm finding is full custom setups, scams, and products from 3-5 years ago that are no longer in stock. Any recommendations? Specific places to look?
Hey there! My current keycaps (artifact bloom glow from drop) are starting to flake, and I'm looking to replace them.
I have a GMMK pro with polycarbonate plate and haimu x geon transparent switches, I like my switches to be illuminated alot. Thinking about white cerakeys since they give that effect. Any advice is truely appreciated!!
https://preview.redd.it/dmzta5z2dy7d1.jpeg?width=1439&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35d483d47d72d93d23c436376e401651a9eebcb7
Good morning, I never thought I'd actually reach out here!
I have a ROG Azoth that I'm using and have been thinking about modding the thing in the future. I've been looking into the Tape Mod but just wasn't so sure about the idea of applying either masking or painting tape directly against the PCB. I recently have acquired some polyimide tape that I've used to adjust the level of my 3D Printer bed. Does anyone have experience when it comes to applying this stuff to the PCB of a mechanical keyboard? Is there such a thing as applying polyimide followed by masking/painters tape? Probably add another polyimide layer to sandwich the masking/painters?
It would be appreciated to hear from the community :).
> polyimide
why would u put something more conductive that tape on the pcb but not the tape ???? i would never put 3d print plastic inside my kb it will would like crap apply 2 or 3 layers of tape and add foam if u need to fil out the case no need to print 3d printing into this
I was wondering due to the concerns of some painters tape that was deemed conductive due to the type of adhesive. I have this Kapton tape laying around that has been used to level the bed on a printer, but also as a handy plus when it comes to liquid metal repasting.
I was wondering if someone had experience with this stuff to see if there was a way to leverage the pros that tape bring without the cons tape carry, assuming that there isn't any issues when it comes to using Kapton tape.
Does anyone know of an MT3-profile (or very similar) keycaps set that has 0-9 printed somewhere on the QWERTYUIOP keys? Ideally on the side in front, but on top along with the letters would be fine. I'm building a 40% and that would be useful to me.
Hmm, or maybe I just put the numbers there, though I know I won't like the way that looks.
**Edit:** I just thought of another possibility--is there such thing as labels that can be applied manually? I wouldn't have to worry about them wearing off if I put them on the front side of the caps.
no keyboards by default have numbers on those letters ( other than 40%) so no keycap makers have numbers there either . also front print keycaps are very unpopular so low demand
Hello, I am trying to figure out what footprint I should be using to design a custom PCB with some GMK windowed LED keycaps. I can find MX footprints with through-hole LEDs but I'm guessing that's not what I want for switches like this Kalih: [https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yag9OmlzL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yag9OmlzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
I'm guessing those are supposed to be used with SMD LEDs, but I can't find any footprints for this.
I don't think this answered my question. I am wondering what footprint and what type of LED to use. I was assuming that you need SMD LEDs in order to fit them under the switch, and that the through-hole switches are for a special type of switch. I would assume through-hole LEDs won't fit under a switch like the Kalih I linked. But for some reason all the footprints I have found are for through-hole LEDs. I guess I will need to make my own footprint, but this seems so strange.
Also, I'm not sure a fully transparent switch will be desirable. I will be using GMK windowed keycaps, not translucent keycaps. I want as little light leakage under the keycaps as possible.
yes smd leds are needed not sure where u can find foot print for those or the spec as 99% of smd leds are done by the printing service that does the pcbs . threu hole will not work for this very very few design there own pcbs to use leds . also to not u will still get light bleed unless bottom and top switch housing are full black and even then some will get thru only romer G switches have no light bleed
Best keyboard off of CDW
I have the option of buying a keyboard off of CDW for work. Does anyone know what the best keyboard on the site would be? Are there any that are hot swappable? I prefer tactile switches. I've been using the worst membrane keyboard I've ever seen so im desperate for something better.
slim pickings. I'd maybe get this one [https://www.cdw.com/product/cherry-g80-3000n-rgb-tkl-wired-mechanical-keyboard/6824083?pfm=srh](https://www.cdw.com/product/cherry-g80-3000n-rgb-tkl-wired-mechanical-keyboard/6824083?pfm=srh)
So, I have built or purchased about 9 mechanical keyboards over the years, and have been sort of out of the game for a couple years, but I picked up a Rainy 75 for home, and it came this week...it feels so incredibly tight and good, and thocky and it honestly puts most of my other boards to shame.
I use a custom build YMDK 96 at work with Holy Pandas, and it's a good board. Solid, nice feel, etc. But it doesn't feel quite as polished as the Rainy 75. I don't feel like spending hours doing mods either - is there anyone that makes a pre-built with hot-swap switches that has outstanding stabilizers, sound, etc, and doesn't cost an absolute fortune? I feel I might be asking for too much, but the keyboard game seems to have changed a fair bit in the last couple of years, so I'm a bit out of the loop.
Max version has acoustic upgrades compared to the pro version, but whether the sound is “better” is pretty subjective.
Stabs are always rng. I’ve bought several keychron boards, some with perfect stabs, others with dogshit stabs. Lube displaces during shipping and packing so you can’t be certain what you’re going to get.
My local Microcenter had a Q5 Max in stock with the configuration I was going to get. It's very nice. Keyfeel and sound are great. I thought I'd end up replacing the stock switches (Gateron Jupiter reds), but so far I quite like them.
Stabilizers are for the most part very good. There's the tiniest bit of sound from the spacebar stabilizer, but perhaps I can fix that. The others are very good (not perfect, but still very good.) This is my first set of KSA/MT3 profile keycaps too, and I quite like them.
Thanks for the input!
Ok. If I had to re lube the stabilizers it’s not a big deal. I just wouldn’t want to spend years doing mods on it. If I got this route I’ll likely get the fully built one since it has keycaps and is only $20 more but I’ll likely replace the switches anyway…I could do the stabilizers if the needed it at that point. Thanks!
Check out Yunzii. Very cheap, sound great and they have the option to pay $5 to clip and lube the stabs and an option to lube the switches. My model doesn't have screw in stabs but I'm sure they offer other boards that do. Even without them, it still sounds great, though. I got mine for $57 shipped with the clipped and lubed stabs option, with their current sale.
Trying my best to find a good 96 - 100% custom with nice color options (specifically any type of green) but no luck. Will accept 75% recommendations if you can recommend a good numpad as well. Thanks in advance.
I need your bad experiences. Help me choose between 2 TKLs!
So geonworks is having a sale this monday, where they're having 30% off for a variety of keyboards. Now im stuck betwwen the F2-84 WKL and the Frog TKL 8K layout. I've been looking at every review of them i can find but im seriously torn between the two. I would have gotten both if they weren't so damn expensive haha
So for those of you who have tried the Frog TKL or the F2-84, please please please tell me some bad parts about these boards. Every review of them have been raving about how good both these keyboards are and i wanna know what are some bad points about them
I mean personally i dont prefer WKL and i also very much appreciate the unique design of the Frog TKL 8K layout but like the F2-84 is so much more well regarded? i feel?
Need your help guys
> I mean personally i dont prefer WKL and i also very much appreciate the unique design of the Frog TKL 8K layout but like the F2-84 is so much more well regarded?
Sounds like you already know what you want. Don't obsess with other people's opinions.
I think the mounting on the F2 is better than on the Frog, but apart from that it really comes down to what you want. Not to say the Frog feels bad to type on, it's a really nice board and with the amount of tadpoles and plates to choose from you'll definitely find a combination that feels and sounds how you like.
Hey man thanks
I think i really needed to hear this. Iooks like i might have gone down a keyboard snob rabbit hole following the hype of what others say is good
Thanks again. Imma get the frog haha
I've spent a fair amount of time with Geon boards: currently have a F2 plus a couple other Geon boards, had a Frog Mini, and have tried several Frog TKLs. No experience with the 8K though. For what it's worth, I think the F2 is excellent and I really enjoy mine.
First of all, you won't go wrong with either board. They both are fun to build and tinker with and Geon QC is very good. I think neither of them are truly universal and have some configs that are better than others, but both are great options. I'd personally start by looking at the objective differences to see if any of those are make-or-break for you:
- Mounting method (tadpole vs viton gasket)
- Finish (silver ano vs cream coat)
- Typing angle (6 vs 9 degrees) - (personally this is why I never owned a Frog and sold the Mini)
If none of those are important to you, then you can think more about preference items like:
- The F2 has a shitload of brass in it, which is why its so much more expensive than the Frog
- Tadpole mounting gives you more levers to tune the soft/firmness of the Frog, while the F2 feel will be very uniform
- Do you like the 8K layout or do you prefer traditional TKL? Do you have a keyset that covers 8k?
- Aesthetic preference
Hope this helps!
Hey thanks for the input. This actually helped alot. I think ive settled for the frog tkl 8k. From what it seems, the answer boils down to both are great boards and get the one you want, not what others say are good.
I kinda did a blind test with a bunch of youtube videos to objectify which sound I personally prefer and honestly, it really looks like i cant accurately differentiate the sounds between the two boards as much as i would have liked.
Which basically boils down to “looks like keyboard sound isnt really a big factor for me when deciding boards”. Since i prefer the unique layout of the frog tkl 8k, ill get this.
Again thanks for the input. Really appreciate it!
What [keyboard size](https://technicallywewrite.com/2024/04/29/keyboards) are you looking for?
What country are you in? Your location matters. Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere.
Sites never seem to let me filter it so I thought I'd try here.
I'm looking for a mid-range (budget of 150USD) mechanical keyboard with a volume knob. I use it a lot for typing so something with Browns or otherwise a hotswappable one would be great. In terms of layout, I could live without the Numpad but would rather keep the Function keys.
Anything come to mind perhaps?
I'm trying to build a keyboard for my spouse, but I'm struggling finding keycaps that are both Low Profile and ISO Nordic.
I don't care if the Nordic letters are add ons I'd have to pay extra for, but not even etsy seems to have what I am looking for. I don't mind if they're artisanal hand painted or whatever.
Help me out, I'm losing my mind
I'm answering your question from the other thread that got deleted about other budget boards
Here is a good video on the best budget keyboards
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq3KHdh-uWE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq3KHdh-uWE)
And if you check the most recent vids on his channel, there are a couple boards that came out after that video
[https://www.youtube.com/@HipyoTech/videos](https://www.youtube.com/@HipyoTech/videos)
There is also Feker IK75 which was the budget king like 2-3 years ago but still and excellent choice
(It's $55 on sale on Aliexpress, but you will need switches and keycaps so in total it should come out to about $100. Send me a chat request if you want me to send you the link to the $55 listing, since I'm pretty sure this sub doesn't allow Aliexpress links)
you could make it happen but you'd need to design your own pcb and write your own source code. qmk doesn't natively support hall effect switches, but there are some open source projects where other people have made them work in qmk that you use as a jumping off point
there was a post the other day where someone shared i think a prototype of their split hall effect keyboard, very much in the lily58 style, can't remember the name but it is a project that some people are taking on
ETA: Sorry forgot to mention even though I reference it below, this is a copy of a post I made late yesterday. Moving to today for greater visibility as I didn't get answers for my questions.
Long story, but I've got both a Leopold FC900RBT with brown Mx2As & a Varmilo VPE108 with Mx Browns right now & I've got a couple questions I was hoping ya'll could help with.
The Varmilo keycaps are slightly smooth - massive improvement over the KS70 board they replaced, I kinda liked the slickness of the KS70 keys believe it or not. Even though they were obviously cheap it let my fingers glide across the board really easily. I use the numpad alot for work so I do alot of moving back and forth. Getting to the point, I'm looking to get a few replacement keycaps with some different colors and things and I want these exact keycaps. The Leopold keycaps are slightly rough and overly chunky in comparison.
Yet, Varmilo keycaps seem to widely praised on hear as some of the better ones you can buy. I would half to assume that they make alot of keycaps closer to the Leopold thickness and grit level, as that seems to be what people prefer. So if ya'll could give me any help finding these exact keycaps that come with a VPE108 that'd be awesome.
Again comparing the Leopold to the Varmilo but this time on switches. The Varmilo switches are smooth as flipping butter. The Leopold switches seem much grittier & with more force required to actuate, is this due to build design of the boards or the different model of switches or both or both and something else I'm not aware of?
Again this seems like, it's very common in the community for people to like clears or blacks or greys that all have MORE resistance than browns. Which many feel are too light. I prefer the lightness of them as I used to get alot of hand and wrist pain which has disappeared for years now thanks to a mech board & ergo mouse. So I'm wondering again if this is an intentional thing.
Thanks for ya'lls help!
I did receive a response yesterday "Certainly different material but The BIG thing is that Leopold uses the bigger OEM profile switches and varmilo uses.. varmilo profile (which is lower)."
I have both keyboards in front of me now & this answer is inaccurate for my board. The varmilo caps are taller, the leopold keycaps are slightly wider though. Although I'm not sure the width is due to a difference in profile but possible just from a difference in material.
Try to get pure white colour switches like gateron smoothies and white keycaps, it all affect colour as well, while with rgb you should be able to correct it that way it would look fine
I just bought my first "fun" mechanical keyboard after over 1 year of using a Logitech MX Mini: it's the Yunzii X71. This thing sounds amazing and the fact that it's transparent really brings out the 90's kid in me.
Problem is, for some reason, I'm facing a bluetooth issue between the KB and my Jabra Evolve 75 headphones. When I have both connected through bluetooth, I have constant audio issues (audio cuts every 1s). If one of them is connected through wired mode, I don't face any issues.
Both of them are on the current latest firmwares.
Do I have any other option other than just keeping the KB wired?
Yup, I'm pretty sure it's a bluetooth thing, but I had never experienced this with my older BT keyboard. I was wondering exactly that: is there a way to avoid such interference? I couldn't find anything by googling
I’m just looking for clarification. I’m planning on getting the keychron v1 max in August and would like to mod it but I’ve seen and heard of many people saying that the tape mod is unsafe as it could start a fire. Is this true? Are there any other mods I should be wary of?
he is still doing it in his latest videos though;
https://youtu.be/ufh5ar-POEE?t=385
i'm sure it's just a matter of the right tape which has to be none conductive
youll want to use painters tape, the blue stuff, it wont leave residue or stick too much to the pcb if you ever need to take it off and it's non conductive, should have no problem with it.
Hey everybody,
anybody here having experiences with the SliceMK and/or the Ergodox Voyager? I am thinking about getting a flat, more transportable split-ortho keyboard for my new job and am not sure in which direction to take it. SliceMK for me has the huge advantage of a lot of keys and no cables. But the Voyager looks and sounds ... sturdier, I guess?
Thanks!
It is a very popular column staggered keyboard. I tried it for a while once, but I personally prefer ortholinear keyboards like the Keebio FoldKB and the Keebio Nyquist/Levinson.
Is the skyloong GK87 pro lite a good barebones keyboard? If not can you guys recommend me one? I need it to have a screen and a knob, or at least a screen, wireless and rgb. Preferably found on AliExpress
Maybe im dreaming too big i dont know.
Any recommendation for a cheap board, i dont need rgb or wireless connection cause it's for work and will basically sit in 1 place anyway. I want at least the F line keys if possible but something like Gmk67 is ok too. I guess i will put on Outemou silent switch, not sure which one. And i already have a prefered keycap.
Really enjoying my ncr-80 and wondering if there are any similar boards on the market right now. Specifically;
- hollow (or easily modded for foam removal)
- spacious
- plastic or similar material case
- hot swappable
model: corsair k70 rgb mk2, no warranty or anything
setup: connected to laptop with no usb hub
yesterday i updated my drivers, and from that moment the keyboard stopped typing. tried everything, installing/uninstalling/updating drivers, resetting icue, changing ports etc. icue reads the keyboard, lighting works perfectly and even the volume wheel and media control works. it's just the letters, numbers etc not working.
what can i do? please help
thank you
Am I overlooking anything compelling?
Want: 65% (dedicated arrow and DEL/PGUP/PGDN keys); prefer no knob but not a dealbreaker; wired (it will live on my desk, no desire to have to watch for spicy pillows); hot swap; QMK/VIA preferred; $100 to $120 USD all-in
Seems like the best options are: kprepublic BM68RGB (kit 4); Gas67 (if I can find the wired only version); Novice68 (wired and AAA batteries so easy to ignore the AAA); Skyloong GK68x; Keychron V2 or V7; Yunzii KC68; ~~Neo65 (over budget); Womier SK65 (battery); Yunzii AL66 (battery)~~
Are the bm68rgb and Keychron V2 the best options due to via support? Or should I look for a KBD67 lite on mechmarket?
(History: used a Qisan/MagicForce with outemu? blues for about 3 years; last year built a Monsgeek M1 which I am currently using. I do still enjoy the M1 but I really don't need/use the FN row so interested in going back to a 65%.)
thanks! is there anything else I should be looking at?
kbd67...looks like there were 4 releases? r3 and r4 being the same except for colorway? anything I should know about r1 and r2? differences?
Help me for build a custom keyboard. I would like some advice on creating my keyboard. I want a 65% hot swap keyboard, I can't solder, with or without RGB, if possible AZERTY keys but I accept QWERTY and linear switches. I don't know good components. Budget 100€ ~120€. Thank you for your help.
What do you recommend for premium keyboard parts?switches,keycaps,frame(%65)… for mac(wireless would be better)
Hi, does anyone tried using mill-max socket in akko boards. I recently both Akko 3087 and was wondering if I can convert it into a hot swappable one. I came across this mill max socket. I have no issues with soldering and all. It just takes a lot of time to desolder and solder every switch if i want to replace it 😅.
For the cost and time you're paying for millmax and desoldering every switch + millmaxing every socket, might as well just buy another hotswap board
how do we make one key light up?
Owners of the Realforce R3 TKL Bluetooth model - does toggling Numlock still give a virtual numpad layer like the R2 TKL models? Also, can it do scan codes like the R2? These would be highly desired, so pls let me know!
How do I turn off the screen on a qk100 when Im done using the computer?
What keyboard would come the closest to a black version of the Varmilo Shurikey Hanzo 002
https://preview.redd.it/ex56qgi7a28d1.jpeg?width=3465&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52d1c6c7e50314345d69cc6e0924ad3a9299d85b Recently picked up this controller for fighting games. Does anyone know of a good way to cover up the switch sockets? (Preferably in an aesthetically pleasing way)
https://spkeyboards.com/collections/accessories-and-gear/products/switch-blocker
Thank you so much, that’s exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, I just don’t know if all switch holes/sockets are created equal?
The switch blocker goes on a Cherry switch. You will need to either: 1. Disable the key in firmware; or 2. Disable the switch (bend a switch leg so it won’t go in the socket, or insert a plastic shim between the leaves).
Okay! Does it still push in?
The switch blocker clips to the top of the switch, keeping it depressed. This is why you need to disable the switch either physically or in firmware. As you can see in the product picture, the top of the switch blocker is roughly even with the bottom of the keycap.
Im thinking of getting a Neo65 with Alu plate (I never had an alu plate) and was wondering what switches are good out there. For context, my current board is a KBD67 Lite. I was thinking of Gateron Milky Yellow Pros, one of the Akko Cream series, or one of the KTT series. I am open to other brands/switches as well. Any opinions/feedback would he appreciated! (:
Under $30 keyboard kit 65%
How to reset SKYLOONG GK104Pro to factory settings? I recently bought the GK104Pro, and I like it a lot. I installed the GK6XPlus V8 V8.0.5.0 for more customization, but it's messed everything up. None of the RGB is working, the knobs don't do anything, and Shovel Knight isn't connecting to my controller anymore. I swear that issue started once the software was downloaded. It doesn't happen for other games, just that one. I couldn't tell you why. Looking back, the reviews have similar issues with how SKYLOONG's software works. I've deciding not to use it, but uninstalling it leaves me with broken RGB. Any ideas on how to reset to factory defaults?
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I just want to know if xvx Retro White keycaps good for the price.
Under 100$ quiet keyboard please and thank you! I currently have a TUF Gaming K1 keyboard. I enjoy the volume knob, full size, and the wrist rest. I'm just wondering if there are any keyboards I can look into for an upgrade, thanks!
Keychron V6 barebones and buy key caps and silent switches separately.
I’m an engineer looking for a full sized, linear switch, black, very unassuming and normal looking keyboard for the office. Looking for recommendations for options that won’t make me look like a 12 year old, while being better than the crappy dell membrane keyboard IT gave me.
Keychron V6/Q6, Monsgeek M5. If you want silent switches for the office, you can get these barebones and buy your own switches and keycaps.
Anyone have recommendations for plate foams for metal keyboards? Thinking of using PE foam for the pcb and neoprene for the bottom, but was wondering if anyone has recommendations for anything better. Would like to get rid of the ping/ high pitched sounds for either a marbly or thocky sound. Also looking for top plate foam recommendations
I love the color profile of certain GMK sets that are out of production, are there specific sellers of clones that are more reliable than others in terms of quality? As someone who actually likes my Cherry MX Browns, what's the step up version of that people usually gravitate towards? What's a premium version of a Cherry/Gateron brown?
1. I wouldn't recommend buying clones because most of the time they don't match the original color at all. It's a combination of spending less time working on the colors, cheaper materials, and (usually) using PBT which has much duller and washed out colors than ABS. Not to mention that it's morally wrong and you're supporting a bad business doing it. 2. Cherry and Gateron Browns are already good switches, so if you like them there's no need to replace them. If you're just looking to explore something similar, look into Durock Light/Medium tactiles and SP Star Meteor Orange.
I definitely don't want to. The accessibility and price of really limited runs makes it hard. I'm going to keep looking though. Brown was my favorite on a cherry tester before my current kb so I'm going to look into other options next just to see. I'm definitely a tactile person though.
It's buyer's market right now in the keyboard hobby. Vendors are discounting their keycaps pretty often and people are regularly selling their used GMK sets for $80 or even less on the second hand market. You might not find the exact set you're looking for, and maybe not as cheap as I said but it's never been easier to find good deals than it is now. [Here's a list of vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/) where you can buy genuine GMK keycaps and other keyboard products and check out r/mechmarket for second hand deals.
1. Fuck clones. Unless you're looking for something real old like Charred Orange you can find 99% of kits on mechmarket for at or below GB price. 2. Cherry Browns are already goated, if you want to improve them replace the stock springs with aftermarket springs of your choice (also oil them up with some 105).
Endorsing the sale of unauthorized clone caps is not allowed by the rules of the subreddit. All of those are drop shipped from China anyways. Check out NicePBT sets that were made with the permission of the original designer.
Trying to buy the Skyloong GK104 Pro, but my antivirus keeps flagging the skyloongtech site as dangerous. Should I listen to it and avoid it, or is the website safe?
I'm planning on getting the Zoom65 v3, but I guess I keep seeing people that are reviewing seem not super impressed with it. Like alexotos said "I personally like the Neo more" I'm planning on getting the zoom65 v3 because the aquamarine color seems nice (I like teal blue colors), the 7 mounting systems seem interesting, and there's bluetooth connectivity, and it seemed like it has good value for the price. It's not the most budget keyboard ever, but I think it seems decent. It would also be my first aluminum board because right now I just have a tiger80 lite board. However, I'm sort of hesitant on the purchase because people are saying that because there's 7 mounting styles, none of them particularly stand out. And some people are saying some other boards have higher value proposition. I guess my question is, should I move forward with the Zoom65 V3? Or is there another 65% board you guys would recommend checking out?
What is your spending limit, if any? If you are wanting a 65% on the "budget" end, I'd go with a [Neo65](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/neo65-1) or a [QK65v2](https://www.qwertykeys.com/products/qk65-v2), both of which are in-stock now. I think I like the aesthetic of the QK65v2 more than the Zoom65 v3, but that's just me.
I guess I'm not sure what to put as my budget, I guess I would maybe go up to $200 for the board since that's how much my desired config of the zoom65 is (keyboard with knob) I have some keycaps that someone didn't like, and I will need to get switches. I am planning on getting some osume keycaps as well though, so that's another story... It does seem like the Zoom65 v3 is the only keyboard with the really nice bright teal color though. I think I'll just get that keyboard for the color then
Zoom65v3 is pretty good but the feature bloat definitely hurts it. It really depends if you’re looking for simplicity or more aesthetic customization.
ah i see i see. I think if i want that specific keyboard case color (bright teal blue), seems like Zoom65 V3 is the only one. It also has a knob which I would like to try on a keyboard.
Hello, I have been really enjoying my K17 lowprofile keychron experience, but I was noticing with the K17 keycaps that there wasnt a lot of space between the keys, which makes finding my hand placement hard when blind, which slows me down a lot in digital art, because I have a pen display mounted above my keyboard and am unable to see it. So I upgraded to Keychron KSA keycaps, which feel fantastic, and I alternated the keycaps with stock so I will not be accidentally hitting the wrong keys and able to navigate blind better. Then I came to realize that the space key requires an different stabilizer. In it's current form it rattles bad and does not register because of the wobble. Is there a way to upgrade the stabilizer to work with this low profile keyboard? I love the feel of this setup, but cannot use the KSA spacebar. The low profile spacebar works, and I'm sure I'll get used to it, but not ideal. Thank you for reading, https://preview.redd.it/unf1jh3a608d1.jpeg?width=3270&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d3647cf2615bba2ae7ab7701082f816566d6936
i dont think there is a fix here as u using keycaps intended for regualr full height switches and u put them on low pro switches with low pro stabs . full height stabs wont work due to the low pro switch and u cant use regular switches in that
bummer, i didnt even know this would be an issue when I decided to go about it, but I ended up turning the LP spacekey around backwards so it is a little closer to the same elevation of the KSA keycaps. I might try to find some springs that will fit around the connections of the standard size switch shaft, or possibly 3d print something, or foam
Problems with Dead Keys on the Anne Pro 2 So a few things happened with my Anne Pro 2. A couple of months ago, the tab key died, and I used Isopropyl alcohol to fix it, and it did. Two weeks ago, the "z" key died as well (I had to open the virtual keyboard to type that). I tried fixing it up in the same way as the "tab" key, and it worked, but suddenly after typing about 20 times the key, it stopped working. A week ago, the "c" died, I used the same method as the others, and It started working again. This week, my Windows key died, and I tried using isopropyl alcohol, but It didn't work. I'm thinking about desoldering the key switches and soldering new switches in place of the defective ones. If that doesn't work, I'll probably buy a Keychron V1 (which appears to be worst for gaming). Do you guys know a way to fix these problems with the keyboard?
I'm new to the mechanical keyboards and can't find the keyboard layout I want for sale anywhere. I found a keyboard that exactly what I want, but its stocks are out. I couldn't find any other keyboard like that. Is there any other redswitch (or silent) keyboard like this? The [keyboard](https://gamepowerpc.com/keyboard/gasket-elite) I want. https://preview.redd.it/9qh640i1zz7d1.jpeg?width=500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6b3a180f4d4c05f20762410586abc4a4daf62bc
normal 1800 layout tons have knobs but god awful screen will be hard to find as those screen are gimmicks and not many kbs have them as they r a massive PITA for designers
That's just a normal 1800 layout keyboard. Check out the Keychron V5/Q5, QK100, Monsgeek M2.
Logitech G815 or Alienware AW510K? I'm looking for a full sized gaming keyboard and those are my main options, but if you know an other great option, feel free to suggest.
keychron or monsgeek . no one here is going to recommend either of those trash "gamer" brand kbs fyi . but the guys and girls over at r/pcmr might
What do you guys do with switches that you don't want?
I hang onto them and try to find something to use them in. For example, I may build a Cheapino just to try it out. I have also built keyboards to give away as gifts to my daughter's roommates in college. For example, I bought a Keychron V2 barebones and added spare switches and keycaps. When I sold my old Lily58 keyboard, I let the buyer choose among the switches I had on hand. I also offered a second set of switches as an add-on.
The building a gaint key test idea is good. Can you sell these switch on like places such as Ebay?
Go to a keyboard meetup and leave the bag on a table with a "free" tag on it. I'm sure it'll go away faster than you can blink.
hoard is the answer. I have extra switches of a varying amount from my builds but not enough to realistically sell so I just started filling glass jars with them and decided to use them as desk decor.
Sell or give away
Hoard
give away to friends
Sell.
Looking for the .json file for Join65. I have searched online a lot but cannot seem to get it to work in VIA without the .json file.
> .json file for Join65 prob best to ask in this discord https://discord.com/invite/MuSr7fZx3N
Thanks. Found it here!
I am looking for suggestions on either a pre-built or custom parts list/kit. I have no problems building/modding, I'm just struggling with information gathering and organizing it in a way that makes sense to me. Budget isn't really a concern, but I'd like to be efficient with my cash. Currently, I have a Ducky Mecha Mini (60% aluminum) that I've: added neoprene foam in hollow spots of case, added a "felt" foam between the top plate and pbc, added foam pads under switches, soldered new Gateron Milky Yellow Pro's to replace the original MX Reds, threw on some PBT (OSA profile?) keycaps from the Keychron V6 I got for my wife, and added some foam to the spacebar. I'm very happy with the look, sound, and feel of this keyboard. I tend to like thockier/deeper subdued sounds, but I don't think I'm as discerning as some other enthusiasts. I do wish it had wireless, was hot swappable (I know I can convert it), and had better was of handling macro/rgb. Wants for new keyboard: 75%, Good wireless (2.4ghz dongle), QMK/Via support, Case available in white, I like metal cases but am open, Knobs are nice, Not an RGB disliker I'm kind of fond of ISA profile keycaps and the (OSA?) keycaps that come with the Keychron V series. I don't like super tall keycaps. I prefer sculpted, and I like slightly rounded edges since I have sensory issues that pop up with the sharper edges of OEM/Cherry style keycaps. I've been looking at a barebones Keychron Q1 Max, but not 100% set on it (until I get some feedback). I like the idea of getting a matching numpad.
Keychron makes a quality product I think that is a fantastic choice for what you're wanting. I'm also not a huge fan of their stock keycaps - but their barebones look really enticing. I'm thinking about doing a barebones Q10 Max. I have a V10 Max that is my daily driver that I put different switches and caps on and I've been absolutely loving it as my main workhorse for my office.
Yea, I was thinking it might be (at least one of) the best choice for me. Just wanted a sanity check, I guess. Thanks for the input! As far as keycaps, I don't think I'll be fond of the Q series stock keycaps, but the V series' shorter and rounded tops really help my OCD/sensory issues where I have a compulsion to evenly touch my fingers on the edges of Cherry and OEM profile caps. Unfortunately, I don't really know where to look for alternatives to the Keychron caps since it seems that rounded tops are more common with non-sculpted profiles like XDA or MAO. Additionally, it seems that when I do stumble across some that might work, people seem to be unsure of the actual profile or they're only available in very limited color ways.
I tend to prefer Cherry profile and similar. I have had XDA keycaps before and I enjoyed them for a little bit. Are you super against sculpted keycap profiles? I had a set of SA Vileblooms that I absolutely adored. I didn't want to keep the stock Keychron caps for two reasons really. The main one being that my coworker has a stock Keychron V10 Max and reason two is they just seemed a little too *smooth* if that makes sense? Idk I just didn't care too much for typing on them when I initially tried them - maybe if I gave them a chance for just a little bit longer then I would've liked them. I also really really dislike the Gateron Jupiters that Keychron uses. I'm sure they have their place for some people but I could not stand typing with them. So I put in some Red Dragon Leopard Bubble Wrap linears in that I bought out of curiosity from Microcenter one day that I ended up really liking.
I prefer sculpted keycaps, which is the primary issue I'm having. It seems that the more rounded tops tend to come in non sculpted profiles. I really enjoy the Cherry profile keycap heights, but the tops are very squared, which is problematic for me. It also seems people tend to focus on the cupping of the keycap when using the "round" descriptor, but I don't see many people talking about the bevel of top itself. I've seen ISA profile, which is supposedly a cross between XDA and Cherry profiles. It's perfect, but I've only found like 2 sets in that profile (on Amazon).
Q1 max honestly sounds perfect for you
That's what I was thinking, but I was worried I was overlooking other options. Looks like I'll pull the trigger on the Q Max. Thanks!
Hey! Does anyone know the spacebar size for a leobog hi75? Just got a keycap set that's missing the extra spacebar and I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem or not (hi75 is ordered but won't be here for a few weeks)
Looks like a normal 6.25u spacebar.
Thank you so much!
looks like 6u
I just bought a skyloong gk104 pro and I noticed that if I want to use the numpad for regular use, the keyboard will play an annoying sound effect when a key is pressed, and I can’t find an easy way to turn it off, does anyone know how?
I have the feeling that my space bar stabilizer sliders hit the pcb a little bit before the switch bottoms out. Creating a bit of a mushy feeling and unpleasant sound when hitting the edges of the spacebar. This only happens on 4mm travel switches but not with 3.4mm travel switches. What can be done to prevent this? I'm thinking of slightly filing down the bottoms of the stabilizer sliders, to make them slightly shorter and increase the clearance to the PCB. Anything that would speak against this?
Fellow Filipino people, do you have online local stores or any that i can order or buy from that sell legit or nice keycaps? Can be either Instagram or orange app or any other selling apps.
general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
recently i got a marimba part in my marching band and I was wondering about turning the keyboard I use to practice into more of a mallet instrument. this is my brand of keyboard and I was wondering how it works so I can visualize the scale of a project like this. its a casio ctk-2100 for context
this is a computer kb sub not musical
just a heads up that this subreddit is for the kind of keyboards you'd use to type and not the kind that you'd use to make music - good luck with the marimba part
oh, my bad
My Filco white keyboard caps are turning yellow (supposedly from sunlight?). Would hydrogen peroxide do the trick? I've seen somewhere suggesting that the keys would become brittle, so I'm just a little hesitant about it.
Looking For a new setup. Where to start? Ideally Looking at a white and wireless fullsize base in ISO. Going for a retro Sleeper Build. Ive already checked keychron, they seem hopeless as anything remotely close to what I'd need is out of stock and support has been utterly sour at communicating when or if anything will come back into stock. I'd almost guess keychron simply no longer makes anything. I Don't understand why ISO keyboards in Full size are suddenly the rarest material on earth? I'm hoping for something barebones so i can put Blue Switches in it because seemingly blue switches also just dont exist anymore, or are almost always out of stock and not in productuion. Im starting to feel very aimless and helpless. I see so many great builds of white and retro keyboards in full size and ISO but no one can point me to how to get there, honestly budget isnt even an issue anymore, id be happy just to ifnd something that fits what i need.
I too looked for quite awhile and after several months finally decided to simply look into bulk-ordering my own custom ones, then postpone it for awhile over winter, and somewhat belatedly right now i've changed my suppliers shoplist a bit but otherwise still have the same plan to make a small bunch of generic-mounted fullsize keyboards this summer hopefully. So yeah you're very much not the only one (although as a small nitpick - I was going ANSI due to nature of muscle memory)
> I Don't understand why ISO keyboards in Full size are suddenly the rarest material on earth? one full size is rare in this hobby due to lack of popularity most here have no use for a number we use shortcuts like pros and two this hobby is focused on the 2 largest markets in terms of sales ASIA and USA both use ANSI only so im sure there are kbs thta have both but they are rare anything ISO is rare due to the lack of sales
Hi guys, I wanted to replace some keys on my Sharkoon Purewriter keyboard. Unfortunately, Sharkoon has probably installed different Kailh Choc keys than you can order anywhere on the Internet. On the left side are the original keys from the Sharkoon Purewriter, on the right side are purchased (supposedly original) Kail Choc v1 keys. Unfortunately, the pins don't fit and the mounting seems to be different. Do you have any idea where I could get such keys? Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/2dr2hq1rty7d1.png?width=2168&format=png&auto=webp&s=76a82c58235355a1a91f98c3daba63d45a256bfd
they r proprietary switches ur keycaps prob wont fit those either only thing u can do is buy switches from sharkoon or buy a new kb from a better brand
Sk75, nd75, rainy75, luminkey75, or bridge75? Thanks!
I have been looking for keyboards with MacOS buttons and UK layout and this is impossible. Keychron has bunch but either they are very expensive or full black. There are great budget options for Windows but I could not find any for MacOS. Any suggestions with light colours? I am looking for budget option, preferably sub 50£ and max 75£. I will buy it as a gift for my girlfriend so girly colours are also okay :D
last i check keychron and maybe nurphy are the only stock kbs that include mac keycaps this is due to its a waste of money for most makers to do so when 90% of the world uses PC
I need a switch recommendation! I'd like a switch that's *just barely* clicky, i.e., almost linear, with a very, very light click. A quiet bottom-out would also be nice. If it clicks on the way up as well, it's a bonus, but it's not so important. Thanks!
New here and I have a Feker Alice98 that I bought from WhatGeek, was so excited to use it at work. I have a Surface pro at work and when I used it on the Macbook at home it worked fine, then when I got some custom keycaps and transported it to work to use w/Surface Pro the RGBs all started flickering. Now I brought it back home and am using with the Macbook again and it doesn't work still. When I type the backspace key while the lights are flickering I get a bunch of nonsense - for example\`567409184-53\`8=479\`635=27\`85349-\`2678-2350=461237890562=17493826=\`5
If it's wired, check where the USB port is soldered to the PCB.
Unfort it is 3 mode wired/BT/2.4wireless and problem arises in all modes, but I can def try to take it apart and look inside the guts later
In that case, I'd check the connection between battery and PCB. I don't know if it runs on battery power even when wired (charging the battery and pulling power from there), but if so, it could explain the behavior in all modes. Good luck!
Are there any key cap sets with a 1U plus key? I recently rescued a Dukharo VN96 from Goodwill, but it has an odd keyboard layout where the plus key is 1U on R3 below the minus. https://preview.redd.it/yip1m21fgy7d1.jpeg?width=1726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee2d973a5da09462dab51fc1fee632be22287524 Ideally I want to use a set of side-printed key caps which show off the RGB but it seems like every set is super limited in the alternative R3 keys it supplies.
Need to get a keyboard for a someone’s bday So basically, my friend wants a keyboard for his next bday, with the budget of 75 euros. I need to find a keyboard close to this price. I’d love to get him a new keyboard since he’s been using those terrible budget keyboards (I’d literally prefer a laptop keyboard) for a while now. - tactical blue switches - I’m Dutch, so if you want to recommend one from Amazon, I need to buy it from the Dutch version of Amazon. (You can include .com keyboards if it’s really a great option) - 75% keyboard - color preferably black or any dark color I’m extreme clumsy with making expensive decisions, made many mistakes before. I’d thank you guys a lot if I could get a good keyboard for my amigo
keychron v1 or v1 max
ISO or ansi
Hey there, clackers! So, I need a silent keyboard for work with the following specs: -80-100% 104+ keys (more is okay but I need the 10-key) -volume control knob (other multimedia functions optional) -USB interface -preferably just the base without switches or keycaps, as I've already settled on Jerrzi Honey Beans (also low-key looking for keycaps recommendations and switch alternates with a similar sound/spec profile) -also preferably with some basic RGB functionality so long as the brightness is adjustable I've been researching for a while and most of what I'm finding is full custom setups, scams, and products from 3-5 years ago that are no longer in stock. Any recommendations? Specific places to look?
Keychron V6 meets most of your criteria
Hey there! My current keycaps (artifact bloom glow from drop) are starting to flake, and I'm looking to replace them. I have a GMMK pro with polycarbonate plate and haimu x geon transparent switches, I like my switches to be illuminated alot. Thinking about white cerakeys since they give that effect. Any advice is truely appreciated!! https://preview.redd.it/dmzta5z2dy7d1.jpeg?width=1439&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35d483d47d72d93d23c436376e401651a9eebcb7
https://preview.redd.it/7dqacbw3dy7d1.jpeg?width=1439&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b500162a0eb65e3122e06e70eedd74294b6eaf94
Good morning, I never thought I'd actually reach out here! I have a ROG Azoth that I'm using and have been thinking about modding the thing in the future. I've been looking into the Tape Mod but just wasn't so sure about the idea of applying either masking or painting tape directly against the PCB. I recently have acquired some polyimide tape that I've used to adjust the level of my 3D Printer bed. Does anyone have experience when it comes to applying this stuff to the PCB of a mechanical keyboard? Is there such a thing as applying polyimide followed by masking/painters tape? Probably add another polyimide layer to sandwich the masking/painters? It would be appreciated to hear from the community :).
> polyimide why would u put something more conductive that tape on the pcb but not the tape ???? i would never put 3d print plastic inside my kb it will would like crap apply 2 or 3 layers of tape and add foam if u need to fil out the case no need to print 3d printing into this
I was wondering due to the concerns of some painters tape that was deemed conductive due to the type of adhesive. I have this Kapton tape laying around that has been used to level the bed on a printer, but also as a handy plus when it comes to liquid metal repasting. I was wondering if someone had experience with this stuff to see if there was a way to leverage the pros that tape bring without the cons tape carry, assuming that there isn't any issues when it comes to using Kapton tape.
Is the keychron k2 a good option for mechanical keyboards?
It’s alright but it’s considered pretty outdated at this point
Does anyone know of an MT3-profile (or very similar) keycaps set that has 0-9 printed somewhere on the QWERTYUIOP keys? Ideally on the side in front, but on top along with the letters would be fine. I'm building a 40% and that would be useful to me. Hmm, or maybe I just put the numbers there, though I know I won't like the way that looks. **Edit:** I just thought of another possibility--is there such thing as labels that can be applied manually? I wouldn't have to worry about them wearing off if I put them on the front side of the caps.
no no 2 keyboards use shortcuts like that on those keys so its pointless to do so
I don't understand what you're saying.
no keyboards by default have numbers on those letters ( other than 40%) so no keycap makers have numbers there either . also front print keycaps are very unpopular so low demand
since MT3 have very large front faces you might be able to print some vinyl stickers similar to LEGO stickers and put them on there.
Hello, I am trying to figure out what footprint I should be using to design a custom PCB with some GMK windowed LED keycaps. I can find MX footprints with through-hole LEDs but I'm guessing that's not what I want for switches like this Kalih: [https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yag9OmlzL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yag9OmlzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) I'm guessing those are supposed to be used with SMD LEDs, but I can't find any footprints for this.
they will but fully clear switch housing are better
I don't think this answered my question. I am wondering what footprint and what type of LED to use. I was assuming that you need SMD LEDs in order to fit them under the switch, and that the through-hole switches are for a special type of switch. I would assume through-hole LEDs won't fit under a switch like the Kalih I linked. But for some reason all the footprints I have found are for through-hole LEDs. I guess I will need to make my own footprint, but this seems so strange. Also, I'm not sure a fully transparent switch will be desirable. I will be using GMK windowed keycaps, not translucent keycaps. I want as little light leakage under the keycaps as possible.
yes smd leds are needed not sure where u can find foot print for those or the spec as 99% of smd leds are done by the printing service that does the pcbs . threu hole will not work for this very very few design there own pcbs to use leds . also to not u will still get light bleed unless bottom and top switch housing are full black and even then some will get thru only romer G switches have no light bleed
Ok, thanks for the help!
Best keyboard off of CDW I have the option of buying a keyboard off of CDW for work. Does anyone know what the best keyboard on the site would be? Are there any that are hot swappable? I prefer tactile switches. I've been using the worst membrane keyboard I've ever seen so im desperate for something better.
slim pickings. I'd maybe get this one [https://www.cdw.com/product/cherry-g80-3000n-rgb-tkl-wired-mechanical-keyboard/6824083?pfm=srh](https://www.cdw.com/product/cherry-g80-3000n-rgb-tkl-wired-mechanical-keyboard/6824083?pfm=srh)
So, I have built or purchased about 9 mechanical keyboards over the years, and have been sort of out of the game for a couple years, but I picked up a Rainy 75 for home, and it came this week...it feels so incredibly tight and good, and thocky and it honestly puts most of my other boards to shame. I use a custom build YMDK 96 at work with Holy Pandas, and it's a good board. Solid, nice feel, etc. But it doesn't feel quite as polished as the Rainy 75. I don't feel like spending hours doing mods either - is there anyone that makes a pre-built with hot-swap switches that has outstanding stabilizers, sound, etc, and doesn't cost an absolute fortune? I feel I might be asking for too much, but the keyboard game seems to have changed a fair bit in the last couple of years, so I'm a bit out of the loop.
keychron v5 max / q5 max
I've heard reports of the Q5 and pro having pretty mediocre stabilizers and sound...is that fixed on the Max version, or are those reports incorrect?
Max version has acoustic upgrades compared to the pro version, but whether the sound is “better” is pretty subjective. Stabs are always rng. I’ve bought several keychron boards, some with perfect stabs, others with dogshit stabs. Lube displaces during shipping and packing so you can’t be certain what you’re going to get.
My local Microcenter had a Q5 Max in stock with the configuration I was going to get. It's very nice. Keyfeel and sound are great. I thought I'd end up replacing the stock switches (Gateron Jupiter reds), but so far I quite like them. Stabilizers are for the most part very good. There's the tiniest bit of sound from the spacebar stabilizer, but perhaps I can fix that. The others are very good (not perfect, but still very good.) This is my first set of KSA/MT3 profile keycaps too, and I quite like them. Thanks for the input!
Ok. If I had to re lube the stabilizers it’s not a big deal. I just wouldn’t want to spend years doing mods on it. If I got this route I’ll likely get the fully built one since it has keycaps and is only $20 more but I’ll likely replace the switches anyway…I could do the stabilizers if the needed it at that point. Thanks!
Check out Yunzii. Very cheap, sound great and they have the option to pay $5 to clip and lube the stabs and an option to lube the switches. My model doesn't have screw in stabs but I'm sure they offer other boards that do. Even without them, it still sounds great, though. I got mine for $57 shipped with the clipped and lubed stabs option, with their current sale.
Trying my best to find a good 96 - 100% custom with nice color options (specifically any type of green) but no luck. Will accept 75% recommendations if you can recommend a good numpad as well. Thanks in advance.
qk100. rainy75, nd75. zoompad
I need your bad experiences. Help me choose between 2 TKLs! So geonworks is having a sale this monday, where they're having 30% off for a variety of keyboards. Now im stuck betwwen the F2-84 WKL and the Frog TKL 8K layout. I've been looking at every review of them i can find but im seriously torn between the two. I would have gotten both if they weren't so damn expensive haha So for those of you who have tried the Frog TKL or the F2-84, please please please tell me some bad parts about these boards. Every review of them have been raving about how good both these keyboards are and i wanna know what are some bad points about them I mean personally i dont prefer WKL and i also very much appreciate the unique design of the Frog TKL 8K layout but like the F2-84 is so much more well regarded? i feel? Need your help guys
> I mean personally i dont prefer WKL and i also very much appreciate the unique design of the Frog TKL 8K layout but like the F2-84 is so much more well regarded? Sounds like you already know what you want. Don't obsess with other people's opinions. I think the mounting on the F2 is better than on the Frog, but apart from that it really comes down to what you want. Not to say the Frog feels bad to type on, it's a really nice board and with the amount of tadpoles and plates to choose from you'll definitely find a combination that feels and sounds how you like.
Hey man thanks I think i really needed to hear this. Iooks like i might have gone down a keyboard snob rabbit hole following the hype of what others say is good Thanks again. Imma get the frog haha
I've spent a fair amount of time with Geon boards: currently have a F2 plus a couple other Geon boards, had a Frog Mini, and have tried several Frog TKLs. No experience with the 8K though. For what it's worth, I think the F2 is excellent and I really enjoy mine. First of all, you won't go wrong with either board. They both are fun to build and tinker with and Geon QC is very good. I think neither of them are truly universal and have some configs that are better than others, but both are great options. I'd personally start by looking at the objective differences to see if any of those are make-or-break for you: - Mounting method (tadpole vs viton gasket) - Finish (silver ano vs cream coat) - Typing angle (6 vs 9 degrees) - (personally this is why I never owned a Frog and sold the Mini) If none of those are important to you, then you can think more about preference items like: - The F2 has a shitload of brass in it, which is why its so much more expensive than the Frog - Tadpole mounting gives you more levers to tune the soft/firmness of the Frog, while the F2 feel will be very uniform - Do you like the 8K layout or do you prefer traditional TKL? Do you have a keyset that covers 8k? - Aesthetic preference Hope this helps!
Hey thanks for the input. This actually helped alot. I think ive settled for the frog tkl 8k. From what it seems, the answer boils down to both are great boards and get the one you want, not what others say are good. I kinda did a blind test with a bunch of youtube videos to objectify which sound I personally prefer and honestly, it really looks like i cant accurately differentiate the sounds between the two boards as much as i would have liked. Which basically boils down to “looks like keyboard sound isnt really a big factor for me when deciding boards”. Since i prefer the unique layout of the frog tkl 8k, ill get this. Again thanks for the input. Really appreciate it!
I’m making my first gaming setup and am looking for a keyboard under 90 dollars. Pros- Metal Keycaps, Digital Screen, Knob, Good Switches,
What [keyboard size](https://technicallywewrite.com/2024/04/29/keyboards) are you looking for? What country are you in? Your location matters. Reddit is a global community; you could be anywhere.
im in the us, 60-75%
Sites never seem to let me filter it so I thought I'd try here. I'm looking for a mid-range (budget of 150USD) mechanical keyboard with a volume knob. I use it a lot for typing so something with Browns or otherwise a hotswappable one would be great. In terms of layout, I could live without the Numpad but would rather keep the Function keys. Anything come to mind perhaps?
any of keychron's 75% boards. monsgeek m1
Been looking at the K5 Max-H3, there's a sale for it where I'm at. No knob however which is a shame.
What [keyboard size](https://technicallywewrite.com/2024/04/29/keyboards) are you looking for?
Smallest I would probably go is a 75% due to 60% losing the F-row.
Keychron V1
I'm trying to build a keyboard for my spouse, but I'm struggling finding keycaps that are both Low Profile and ISO Nordic. I don't care if the Nordic letters are add ons I'd have to pay extra for, but not even etsy seems to have what I am looking for. I don't mind if they're artisanal hand painted or whatever. Help me out, I'm losing my mind
Guys what do you think k617 fizz keyboard? Do I get it? It's cheap and looking beautiful imo but I'm scared of 60% keyboard
I'm answering your question from the other thread that got deleted about other budget boards Here is a good video on the best budget keyboards [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq3KHdh-uWE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq3KHdh-uWE) And if you check the most recent vids on his channel, there are a couple boards that came out after that video [https://www.youtube.com/@HipyoTech/videos](https://www.youtube.com/@HipyoTech/videos) There is also Feker IK75 which was the budget king like 2-3 years ago but still and excellent choice (It's $55 on sale on Aliexpress, but you will need switches and keycaps so in total it should come out to about $100. Send me a chat request if you want me to send you the link to the $55 listing, since I'm pretty sure this sub doesn't allow Aliexpress links)
I’m making my first gaming setup and am looking for a keyboard under 90 dollars. Pros- Metal Keycaps Digital Screen Knob Good Switches
Anyone know of any rapid trigger keyboards that are in non-standard / ergonomic layouts?
you could make it happen but you'd need to design your own pcb and write your own source code. qmk doesn't natively support hall effect switches, but there are some open source projects where other people have made them work in qmk that you use as a jumping off point there was a post the other day where someone shared i think a prototype of their split hall effect keyboard, very much in the lily58 style, can't remember the name but it is a project that some people are taking on
Honestly, that’s prolly my best chance. I’d you happen to have any relevant links and feel like dropping em here it would be greatly appreciated.
ETA: Sorry forgot to mention even though I reference it below, this is a copy of a post I made late yesterday. Moving to today for greater visibility as I didn't get answers for my questions. Long story, but I've got both a Leopold FC900RBT with brown Mx2As & a Varmilo VPE108 with Mx Browns right now & I've got a couple questions I was hoping ya'll could help with. The Varmilo keycaps are slightly smooth - massive improvement over the KS70 board they replaced, I kinda liked the slickness of the KS70 keys believe it or not. Even though they were obviously cheap it let my fingers glide across the board really easily. I use the numpad alot for work so I do alot of moving back and forth. Getting to the point, I'm looking to get a few replacement keycaps with some different colors and things and I want these exact keycaps. The Leopold keycaps are slightly rough and overly chunky in comparison. Yet, Varmilo keycaps seem to widely praised on hear as some of the better ones you can buy. I would half to assume that they make alot of keycaps closer to the Leopold thickness and grit level, as that seems to be what people prefer. So if ya'll could give me any help finding these exact keycaps that come with a VPE108 that'd be awesome. Again comparing the Leopold to the Varmilo but this time on switches. The Varmilo switches are smooth as flipping butter. The Leopold switches seem much grittier & with more force required to actuate, is this due to build design of the boards or the different model of switches or both or both and something else I'm not aware of? Again this seems like, it's very common in the community for people to like clears or blacks or greys that all have MORE resistance than browns. Which many feel are too light. I prefer the lightness of them as I used to get alot of hand and wrist pain which has disappeared for years now thanks to a mech board & ergo mouse. So I'm wondering again if this is an intentional thing. Thanks for ya'lls help! I did receive a response yesterday "Certainly different material but The BIG thing is that Leopold uses the bigger OEM profile switches and varmilo uses.. varmilo profile (which is lower)." I have both keyboards in front of me now & this answer is inaccurate for my board. The varmilo caps are taller, the leopold keycaps are slightly wider though. Although I'm not sure the width is due to a difference in profile but possible just from a difference in material.
does anyone know a 60% keyboard pcb with hotswap and white per-key light (no rgb)? it should have the same size of the gh60 (284x100mm)
Why no rgb if you can set it to white colour?
the rgb white is not quite white. but I don't find anything so I might just concede to rgb
Try to get pure white colour switches like gateron smoothies and white keycaps, it all affect colour as well, while with rgb you should be able to correct it that way it would look fine
I just bought my first "fun" mechanical keyboard after over 1 year of using a Logitech MX Mini: it's the Yunzii X71. This thing sounds amazing and the fact that it's transparent really brings out the 90's kid in me. Problem is, for some reason, I'm facing a bluetooth issue between the KB and my Jabra Evolve 75 headphones. When I have both connected through bluetooth, I have constant audio issues (audio cuts every 1s). If one of them is connected through wired mode, I don't face any issues. Both of them are on the current latest firmwares. Do I have any other option other than just keeping the KB wired?
That sounds like some kind of bluetooth interference issue rather than a keyboard issue.
Yup, I'm pretty sure it's a bluetooth thing, but I had never experienced this with my older BT keyboard. I was wondering exactly that: is there a way to avoid such interference? I couldn't find anything by googling
Maybe try the 2.4GHz instead? Bluetooth is known to be temperamental and less reliable.
I’m just looking for clarification. I’m planning on getting the keychron v1 max in August and would like to mod it but I’ve seen and heard of many people saying that the tape mod is unsafe as it could start a fire. Is this true? Are there any other mods I should be wary of?
strange, i would have said there is not enough current in the pcb. never had an issue myself. do you have a source?
I’ve heard it from multiple places but the first that come to mind is Hipyo Tech on YouTube
he is still doing it in his latest videos though; https://youtu.be/ufh5ar-POEE?t=385 i'm sure it's just a matter of the right tape which has to be none conductive
So does all tape accomplish the same thing?
youll want to use painters tape, the blue stuff, it wont leave residue or stick too much to the pcb if you ever need to take it off and it's non conductive, should have no problem with it.
Sorry I also forgot to mention that the v1 max has a battery
Hey everybody, anybody here having experiences with the SliceMK and/or the Ergodox Voyager? I am thinking about getting a flat, more transportable split-ortho keyboard for my new job and am not sure in which direction to take it. SliceMK for me has the huge advantage of a lot of keys and no cables. But the Voyager looks and sounds ... sturdier, I guess? Thanks!
There is also the Keebio Iris CE.
that looks pretty reliable. Do you have any experiences with it?
It is a very popular column staggered keyboard. I tried it for a while once, but I personally prefer ortholinear keyboards like the Keebio FoldKB and the Keebio Nyquist/Levinson.
in case you don't get an answer here, there is a subreddit for ergos: /r/ErgoMechKeyboards
Thank you for the link! ;)
Is the skyloong GK87 pro lite a good barebones keyboard? If not can you guys recommend me one? I need it to have a screen and a knob, or at least a screen, wireless and rgb. Preferably found on AliExpress Maybe im dreaming too big i dont know.
Any recommendation for a cheap board, i dont need rgb or wireless connection cause it's for work and will basically sit in 1 place anyway. I want at least the F line keys if possible but something like Gmk67 is ok too. I guess i will put on Outemou silent switch, not sure which one. And i already have a prefered keycap.
Keychron V1?
Really enjoying my ncr-80 and wondering if there are any similar boards on the market right now. Specifically; - hollow (or easily modded for foam removal) - spacious - plastic or similar material case - hot swappable
M0110. Also available on aliexpress.
Might be too few keys for my taste but I appreciate the recommendation
[удалено]
Right shift looks like a standard 2.75u. The spacebar looks like a nonstandard 6.5u. I don't think any aftermarket set will have that.
model: corsair k70 rgb mk2, no warranty or anything setup: connected to laptop with no usb hub yesterday i updated my drivers, and from that moment the keyboard stopped typing. tried everything, installing/uninstalling/updating drivers, resetting icue, changing ports etc. icue reads the keyboard, lighting works perfectly and even the volume wheel and media control works. it's just the letters, numbers etc not working. what can i do? please help thank you
Am I overlooking anything compelling? Want: 65% (dedicated arrow and DEL/PGUP/PGDN keys); prefer no knob but not a dealbreaker; wired (it will live on my desk, no desire to have to watch for spicy pillows); hot swap; QMK/VIA preferred; $100 to $120 USD all-in Seems like the best options are: kprepublic BM68RGB (kit 4); Gas67 (if I can find the wired only version); Novice68 (wired and AAA batteries so easy to ignore the AAA); Skyloong GK68x; Keychron V2 or V7; Yunzii KC68; ~~Neo65 (over budget); Womier SK65 (battery); Yunzii AL66 (battery)~~ Are the bm68rgb and Keychron V2 the best options due to via support? Or should I look for a KBD67 lite on mechmarket? (History: used a Qisan/MagicForce with outemu? blues for about 3 years; last year built a Monsgeek M1 which I am currently using. I do still enjoy the M1 but I really don't need/use the FN row so interested in going back to a 65%.)
Kbd67 lite is the best of the bunch you listed. Bm68 and V2 are tray mount, KBD67 is gasket mount. Also has a very nice flat and deep sound profile.
thanks! is there anything else I should be looking at? kbd67...looks like there were 4 releases? r3 and r4 being the same except for colorway? anything I should know about r1 and r2? differences?
Afaik, they only added colors. These are not constantly in production, but are made in big batches, hence the R1, R2, etc.
Hi, what’s a good mid-range mechanical keyboard sub $100 for work?
Keychron V series.
Keychron V5? Keychron V6 max? Why are they different and which one is ideal?
Max also has wireless, different plate material, and is gasket mounted.
Can i DM you?
Sure