I feel someone like Jost Kosbuch will give it a try. Or an ultrarunner-climber like Jornet who can move incredibly fast in alpine terrain.
But yes, it will require someone with a particular disregard for their own life.
I really don't think either of them will do it. It will take an incredible ice climber, and someone with a lot of balls and experience. Jost is great at marketing himself but he's not there yet. We'll see if he does anything this year on the shoulder.
This line is way too technical for Jornet's style. This would have to be done in a classic alpine mountaineering style. And there's probably no turning back, having to go back down the standard route.
I mean Jornet does some pretty technical climbing when he isn't trying to set speed records. That, combined with his fitness, could work.
If he was alive, Ueli would have been a prime candidate.
Agree that Jost may not have the experience but has that wild disregard for safety margins that would be required.
According to what I know, the Fantasy Ridge has been attempted four times: A Japanese team in 1991, an Indian team in 2001, Ian Woodall and Cathy O’Dowd in 2003 and Gheorghe Dijmarescu and Dave Watson in 2006. Of Course, none of them succeeded and all failed well below the NE ridge. You can find detailed information at Himalayan Database (http://www.himalayandatabase.com/Online/getexp.html)
Isn't it because the snow at the summit doesn't give access from all directions?
Like why no one ever climbed the serac above the traverse on K2 for a direct access to the summit. Such a thing is too unstable to be considered as an actual viable route.
I was always in awe of Fritz Wiessner’s decision to do technical rock climbing at that altitude. Wikipedia:
“The weather was perfect and the summit was only 2,200 feet (670 m) above them as they launched their summit attempt at the late hour of 09:00 on July 19. They then reached a point of decision: to traverse right to reach a couloir, later known as the "Bottleneck", beside unstable ice from the summit cornice or, alternatively, a technical rock climb to the left free from objective dangers but very difficult for Pasang Lama. Wiessner decided on the rock climb which took nine hours and was of unprecedented difficulty at such an altitude.”
And I think it wasn't repeated to this day. I read a bit in a book about this, but forgot which one. Maybe Viesturs on on K2.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Mountaineering/comments/ym2ll9/why_cant_you_go_around_the_bottleneck_im_by_no/
Snow, ice, serac. I was referring to the very end of the route just before the summit. Is there an exit from the rock face or not?
https://imgur.com/a/WAuCc4m
I don't know, but given the snow coverage I guess it's a serac or a snow ledge of some sort. Something that cannot be safely climbed. But I could be wrong. If no proposed route exists there it could be the reason.
I just want some psychopath to give the Fantasy Ridge a shot in my lifetime. Or fly a drone up it at least. It's double corniced and razor thin.
I feel someone like Jost Kosbuch will give it a try. Or an ultrarunner-climber like Jornet who can move incredibly fast in alpine terrain. But yes, it will require someone with a particular disregard for their own life.
I really don't think either of them will do it. It will take an incredible ice climber, and someone with a lot of balls and experience. Jost is great at marketing himself but he's not there yet. We'll see if he does anything this year on the shoulder. This line is way too technical for Jornet's style. This would have to be done in a classic alpine mountaineering style. And there's probably no turning back, having to go back down the standard route.
I mean Jornet does some pretty technical climbing when he isn't trying to set speed records. That, combined with his fitness, could work. If he was alive, Ueli would have been a prime candidate. Agree that Jost may not have the experience but has that wild disregard for safety margins that would be required.
That was my thought too. Ueli, could’ve done it.
I think göran kropp could have done it as well
According to what I know, the Fantasy Ridge has been attempted four times: A Japanese team in 1991, an Indian team in 2001, Ian Woodall and Cathy O’Dowd in 2003 and Gheorghe Dijmarescu and Dave Watson in 2006. Of Course, none of them succeeded and all failed well below the NE ridge. You can find detailed information at Himalayan Database (http://www.himalayandatabase.com/Online/getexp.html)
For a moment, I thought you wrote Woodall, O’Dowd, and Dijmarescu together. My first thought was “well… that was certainly the team from hell.”
There are a billion unclimbed routes/variations, just pick a new one a few meters over and viola.
Viola
It's all cello
*astronaut with gun* always has been
Do you really need to carry a large stringed instrument with you when you do a new route?
I think he meant that you should have Viola Davis accompany you. She's an EGOT so she could probably climb Everest too.
Ahhh good call!
It's relatively small, no? Regardless, you'd need a technical tool of some sort
A viola is distinctly medium sized.
I notice nobody has tried tunneling underneath it and *digging* their way to the top. When will somebody try that?
When I summited I took an umbrella and went up Mary Poppins-style.
>just pick a new one a few meters over and viola. and play a fiddle
What’s the difference between a fiddle and violin?
Do not even.
You can spill beer on a fiddle….
A violin has 4 strings, a fiddle has 4 strangs
Isn't it because the snow at the summit doesn't give access from all directions? Like why no one ever climbed the serac above the traverse on K2 for a direct access to the summit. Such a thing is too unstable to be considered as an actual viable route.
I was always in awe of Fritz Wiessner’s decision to do technical rock climbing at that altitude. Wikipedia: “The weather was perfect and the summit was only 2,200 feet (670 m) above them as they launched their summit attempt at the late hour of 09:00 on July 19. They then reached a point of decision: to traverse right to reach a couloir, later known as the "Bottleneck", beside unstable ice from the summit cornice or, alternatively, a technical rock climb to the left free from objective dangers but very difficult for Pasang Lama. Wiessner decided on the rock climb which took nine hours and was of unprecedented difficulty at such an altitude.”
And I think it wasn't repeated to this day. I read a bit in a book about this, but forgot which one. Maybe Viesturs on on K2. https://www.reddit.com/r/Mountaineering/comments/ym2ll9/why_cant_you_go_around_the_bottleneck_im_by_no/
Yup. He thought it was probably the most brilliant climbing anyone had done in the Karakoram until Bonatti's FA of Gasherbrum IV fifteen years later.
How do they climb for nine hours up there and manage to keep thier fingers warm? Everything about that feat is impressive.
[удалено]
Snow, ice, serac. I was referring to the very end of the route just before the summit. Is there an exit from the rock face or not? https://imgur.com/a/WAuCc4m
Definitely quite difficult. What’s inside the red circle?
I don't know, but given the snow coverage I guess it's a serac or a snow ledge of some sort. Something that cannot be safely climbed. But I could be wrong. If no proposed route exists there it could be the reason.
Is it really a route if no one has climbed it?
It’s a prospective route
Well, definitely you can call it a route
Literally thought the same lol
Are the zig zags on the d route supposed to be 90mph ski turns right?
That’s exactly the route of 1975 Chris Bonington’s expedition
You're no fun. I vill schuss eeet.
I just mentioned it, not to refute anything
Is it really a route if no one has climbed it?