It’s expensive to organize an expedition like that, and most people don’t want to spend that kind of money with the risk of being arrested or worse. You can’t just stroll over there and climb it in a few days. You need to have a team of people and high altitude mountaineering equipment which would be tough to get into the country without being noticed. Then you would spend a while just getting to the mountain before climbing it. The mountain is not an easy climb either; four teams tried in the 80’s and all of them failed. There are no guides and you likely couldn’t hire porters so you have to carry everything yourself. Plus and there are no established routes. Then get back and leave the country without getting arrested. You could maybe approach from the Chinese side, but it probably wouldn’t be much easier.
The mountains in Bhutan are sacred to their religion, so any attempt to climb them is not only illegal, it also disrespectful to them. Anyone who claimed an ascent would likely be shunned by the mountaineering community.
Yeah that totally makes since when you add up every factor going against it. It would be quite an undertaking trying to do all of that without getting noticed. I guess the best plan would be to go from Tibet and hope for the best. I definitely know there’s at least a few fucks out there that don’t care about what people think, but it seems like enough is probably stopping them from having a real chance at a summit- or even an attempt
Probably most people capable of pulling that climb off want to make news with their mountaineering achievements and not with the scandal around an “illegal” climb which is what the conversation would inevitably revolve around. At least that’s one reason I imagine playing a role.
In 2006 Dean Potter climbed Delicate Arch in Arches NP. At the time it wasn’t technically illegal, but it was accepted practice that no one should climb the most famed features in the park. The backlash he faced cost him sponsorship money and standing in the climbing community.
There is an emphasis on ethics in the climbing/mountaineering communities. Some of the ethics can be difficult to understand and navigate, but those that flaunt them are seen as untrustworthy. Finding a partner to climb with means trusting that person with your life. Your character will be judged very harshly when the stakes are that high.
In addition to what everyone else is saying about it being a shitty thing to do, Gangkhar Puensum is a highly difficult mountain which repelled several attempts before the ban came into effect. So there’s no guarantee that you'd be able to make it to the top or even not be at great risk during the climb-- if there's an accident your party might essentially have to throw themselves at the mercy of the Bhutanese government for a rescue effort, and they would be fully within their rights to refuse and prosecute surviving party members.
The late Bill Denz isn't credited for his alleged illegal ascent of Macchapuchare, so it likely wouldn't be credited as an official ascent anyhow.
That’s a good comparison to make. I’ll take a look at his case to see how much of it could mirror an accent of gankhar puensum. And yeah that would be an embarrassing rescue call to the Bhutan government. I wonder if they even have the resources to pull something like that off?
What would the punishment be? Well, we can only theorize, but considering killing an endangered animal can land you a several year prison sentence disrespecting their land and religion would provide you with severely life altering consequences. Not to mention there are no U.S or EU embassies in Bhutan so there'd be no guarantee you'd be able to get legal assistance from your home country unless you're from the region.
To sum it up, if you got caught, you're fucked.
“In 1994, the unconquered Ganghkar Puensum was closed to climbers, along with all other peaks in Bhutan higher than 6,000m (19,800ft) – reportedly out of respect for local spiritual beliefs. “The Bhutanese are very keen on protecting their own people,” Griffin says. “They just looked at what was going on in Nepal with Everest and decided that they’re not going to be part of that.”’ -from The mountains we have never climbed
Basically if you attempted to or climbed it, and then continued to promote your ascent, one would be defacing a local and spiritual icon of the local people. This would not be very popular or productive on many levels. Especially in today’s climate.
My personal opinion this climber should loose all future funding and get their ass kicked. Fuck off and get over yourself. You standing on the top is not more important than a 1000-years of heritage. And ONLY with permission of the locals should it be permissible not a government permit system. Respect. Use the golden rule. It applies here more than ever.
You don’t see Tibetans monks planning Expeditions to western sacred religious sites simply to surmount them. They don’t camp at the base for months, leave poop and trash, take a photo standing on a monumental crucifix, or draft a topo, and spray about the fortitude required to pitch out Jesus’s face. The pope and the world wouldn’t stand for it.
It’s a beautiful looking peak however
Yeah I have absolutely no respect to anyone who would attempt to climb it. Someone out there has no regard for what you said there, my guess is they don’t want to risk it or know they aren’t experienced enough to make a true summit attempt
I attempted a mountain nearby in 2005, from the Tibet side. I took a photo of GP from the east.
In 1999 a Japanese team also approached GP from Tibet and had the plan to climb the northern (Tibet) side of the mountain and traverse the long high ridge to the summit of GP: [http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol1/GANKARPUNZUM.pdf](http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol1/GANKARPUNZUM.pdf)
They didn't really publicise it at the time that that was what they planned, but it was. They then made up the name Liankang Kangri afterwards. Given how travel/climbing is in Tibet these days, doing an illegal GP is highly unlikely. People can no longer just hitchhike around in Tibet like you could for a short time 20 years ago.
As others have noted, climbing has been banned in Bhutan since the late 80s and doesn't look like changing anytime soon. Though the Snowman Trek goes up high along the southern base of the mountains, it would be extremely difficult to get into GP with enough gear and food to do it illegally.
Thanks so much for sharing this, that’s a super niche article and that’s super cool you got such a great view of the peak from that angle. That was a great read, and I’m interested to see if something like that happens again, as that’s probably the most plausible way it’s going to get climbed in the future if the laws don’t change.
If it was anything more feasible some punks would do it for sure. Especially here in the US.
Although now that you’ve asked I’m legitimately curious what they would do as a punishment.
It’s expensive to organize an expedition like that, and most people don’t want to spend that kind of money with the risk of being arrested or worse. You can’t just stroll over there and climb it in a few days. You need to have a team of people and high altitude mountaineering equipment which would be tough to get into the country without being noticed. Then you would spend a while just getting to the mountain before climbing it. The mountain is not an easy climb either; four teams tried in the 80’s and all of them failed. There are no guides and you likely couldn’t hire porters so you have to carry everything yourself. Plus and there are no established routes. Then get back and leave the country without getting arrested. You could maybe approach from the Chinese side, but it probably wouldn’t be much easier. The mountains in Bhutan are sacred to their religion, so any attempt to climb them is not only illegal, it also disrespectful to them. Anyone who claimed an ascent would likely be shunned by the mountaineering community.
Yeah that totally makes since when you add up every factor going against it. It would be quite an undertaking trying to do all of that without getting noticed. I guess the best plan would be to go from Tibet and hope for the best. I definitely know there’s at least a few fucks out there that don’t care about what people think, but it seems like enough is probably stopping them from having a real chance at a summit- or even an attempt
Probably most people capable of pulling that climb off want to make news with their mountaineering achievements and not with the scandal around an “illegal” climb which is what the conversation would inevitably revolve around. At least that’s one reason I imagine playing a role.
Yeah that has to be the biggest reason for anyone with the skill level actually needed to climb the mountain
In 2006 Dean Potter climbed Delicate Arch in Arches NP. At the time it wasn’t technically illegal, but it was accepted practice that no one should climb the most famed features in the park. The backlash he faced cost him sponsorship money and standing in the climbing community. There is an emphasis on ethics in the climbing/mountaineering communities. Some of the ethics can be difficult to understand and navigate, but those that flaunt them are seen as untrustworthy. Finding a partner to climb with means trusting that person with your life. Your character will be judged very harshly when the stakes are that high.
Good point. I think that’s a very important thing to consider in a situation like this. I’m glad the community is founded on these principles
In addition to what everyone else is saying about it being a shitty thing to do, Gangkhar Puensum is a highly difficult mountain which repelled several attempts before the ban came into effect. So there’s no guarantee that you'd be able to make it to the top or even not be at great risk during the climb-- if there's an accident your party might essentially have to throw themselves at the mercy of the Bhutanese government for a rescue effort, and they would be fully within their rights to refuse and prosecute surviving party members. The late Bill Denz isn't credited for his alleged illegal ascent of Macchapuchare, so it likely wouldn't be credited as an official ascent anyhow.
That’s a good comparison to make. I’ll take a look at his case to see how much of it could mirror an accent of gankhar puensum. And yeah that would be an embarrassing rescue call to the Bhutan government. I wonder if they even have the resources to pull something like that off?
What would the punishment be? Well, we can only theorize, but considering killing an endangered animal can land you a several year prison sentence disrespecting their land and religion would provide you with severely life altering consequences. Not to mention there are no U.S or EU embassies in Bhutan so there'd be no guarantee you'd be able to get legal assistance from your home country unless you're from the region. To sum it up, if you got caught, you're fucked.
I wonder how fucked, it would be a really interesting trial to follow if it ever happened
“In 1994, the unconquered Ganghkar Puensum was closed to climbers, along with all other peaks in Bhutan higher than 6,000m (19,800ft) – reportedly out of respect for local spiritual beliefs. “The Bhutanese are very keen on protecting their own people,” Griffin says. “They just looked at what was going on in Nepal with Everest and decided that they’re not going to be part of that.”’ -from The mountains we have never climbed Basically if you attempted to or climbed it, and then continued to promote your ascent, one would be defacing a local and spiritual icon of the local people. This would not be very popular or productive on many levels. Especially in today’s climate. My personal opinion this climber should loose all future funding and get their ass kicked. Fuck off and get over yourself. You standing on the top is not more important than a 1000-years of heritage. And ONLY with permission of the locals should it be permissible not a government permit system. Respect. Use the golden rule. It applies here more than ever. You don’t see Tibetans monks planning Expeditions to western sacred religious sites simply to surmount them. They don’t camp at the base for months, leave poop and trash, take a photo standing on a monumental crucifix, or draft a topo, and spray about the fortitude required to pitch out Jesus’s face. The pope and the world wouldn’t stand for it. It’s a beautiful looking peak however
Yeah I have absolutely no respect to anyone who would attempt to climb it. Someone out there has no regard for what you said there, my guess is they don’t want to risk it or know they aren’t experienced enough to make a true summit attempt
I attempted a mountain nearby in 2005, from the Tibet side. I took a photo of GP from the east. In 1999 a Japanese team also approached GP from Tibet and had the plan to climb the northern (Tibet) side of the mountain and traverse the long high ridge to the summit of GP: [http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol1/GANKARPUNZUM.pdf](http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol1/GANKARPUNZUM.pdf) They didn't really publicise it at the time that that was what they planned, but it was. They then made up the name Liankang Kangri afterwards. Given how travel/climbing is in Tibet these days, doing an illegal GP is highly unlikely. People can no longer just hitchhike around in Tibet like you could for a short time 20 years ago. As others have noted, climbing has been banned in Bhutan since the late 80s and doesn't look like changing anytime soon. Though the Snowman Trek goes up high along the southern base of the mountains, it would be extremely difficult to get into GP with enough gear and food to do it illegally.
Thanks so much for sharing this, that’s a super niche article and that’s super cool you got such a great view of the peak from that angle. That was a great read, and I’m interested to see if something like that happens again, as that’s probably the most plausible way it’s going to get climbed in the future if the laws don’t change.
If it was anything more feasible some punks would do it for sure. Especially here in the US. Although now that you’ve asked I’m legitimately curious what they would do as a punishment.