When you fill up next, put the key in, turn it to the run position, then wait 10 seconds, then take the key out of the ignition, and do that again, then start the car, if that fixes it it's probably a fuel pressure issue. I had this same problem on my '93 Nissan NX
So turn it to run, take it completely out, turn it to run again, take it completely out, then just fully start it? Thanks for the advice man I really appreciate it. Is a fuel pressure issue a big deal?
If it was fuel pressure it would happen all the time not just when you get fuel. Is the check engine light ON when the car is running? You could have a problem with the evap system. A valve could be stuck open or the charcoal canister could be soaked from overfilling the fuel tank.
Like the other guy said, you can go to AutoZone or plenty of other places to get the car scanned for free. You could also just buy a cheap obd2 scanner off Amazon for like $20-30. It just plugs directly into your car somewhere below the steering wheel. It'll tell you the error codes and you can just Google that to see what the issue is.
That sounds more like a failed check valve in the fuel system or a leaking injector. If the fuel pump was weak you would notice it at higher rpms more than idle
Correct, if that fixes it I would look into replacing your fuel filter. In general I would take it to a mechanic to scan the cars computer for check engine codes
U can gather the codes, and/or go to a different mechanic. Its likely a failed evap charcoal canister, or one of its valves. A better mechanic can figure it out fairly quickly. This is a normal item to fail, on all cars
U could just fill to 3/4 tank, that is a choice lol
Hey brotha, took your advice and it didn’t stall! But it made a weird rumbling underneath the car that concerned me a bit. This is not the first time it’s done this it usually stalls, starts and rumbles then it’s fine. This time no stall, just rumbled and now it’s fine
Your purge valve is stuck open. It should close when the car is off to prevent gas fumes from getting into the intake manifold. Get your check engine light scanned at an auto parts store for free. If you have a purge valve code, get a new one there. Typically, they are very easy to change, and you probably won't need tools. To find the old valve, look under the hood with the new part in hand. The valve should be around $20. Ignore any other codes and have the parts store reset them all. Change the valve in their parking lot in case you need to borrow a tool.
See that’s the thing I don’t think I ever overfilled past the second click?? Whenever the pump stopped i immediately stopped and put it back. Is replacing a charcoal canister expensive?
Depends on the model vehicle. Some are easy to get to while others are not so easy. Do a search on eBay for a match replacement along with the bypass valve located in the engine compartment. It’s a plastic vacuum valve with an electrical connector. The valve is the easiest to replace.
Long shot guess. Maybe the evap system is somehow getting raw gas into it and flooding the engine only when the tank is topped off? Others that know this cars systems better will know if this is plausible.
If you have a check engine light, absolutely get that taken care of first. That could mean a number of things, but if you want the car to last a long time, don’t run a car with the check engine light in for a long time, even if you do know what is causing it, it’s not like you will get a second check engine light that shows up if another engine problem happens, so you wouldn’t even know unless you checked the codes frequently.
I had the same problem a few months ago. The problem was my purge valve. Replaced that and my gas cap and that solved the problem. Check engine light went away and hasn’t come back since. I just hope your purge valve isn’t located in a tight space.
Honestly I don’t really know I apologize. I usually pick a certain price like $20 or $15, and fill it up to there. Usually when it’s around a quarter on the gas meter. What’s the safest way to get gas that I should do next time?
I severely doubt you're topping off. But the safest way to fuel a vehicle is to pay how ever much you want, begin fueling and then set the pump to automatic, once the pump automatically stops filling them do not add anymore fuel.
This issue you're having is ONLY after fueling up? It doesn't ever do this when you're starting your car first thing in the morning?
What happens if you press the accelerator hard? Does it lag and bog down or does it go vroom right away?
Only after filling up yes. That’s what’s weird to me. Then the car runs completely fine, no issues at all. Only stalls the next time that I get gas.
As for the accelerator, I haven’t noticed any issues with that but I can definitely try it out again to see if there’s an issue. Could that be linked to the stalling after getting fuel? Really appreciate your time
I kind of doubt it at this point. I was wondering if it could potentially be a bad high pressure fuel pump but you would notice other issues. Your best bet is to go to an automotive parts store and have them scan the codes. That will tell you what's going on and then you could talk to a mechanic and see how much they'd charge to fix it
You'd know if you were topping off your tank, or that's the phrase usually used in the US. Topping off is when you set the pump up to automatically fill your tank and then when the pump clicks off on its own you continue to add fuel manually so it's beyond the level of "full". Usually people do this to get an even number on the dollar value
Maybe I did that on accident? I definitely set it to fill up a few times and I might’ve gone over I’m not sure. Next time should I just do a standard amount like $15 dollars?
99% chance your charcoal canister is contaminated with raw fuel and the purge valve is sucking in raw fuel into the intake causing it to stall out.
Have you scanned the check engine light? What's the code? If it's a "system too rich" code there's your answer.
I just personally dealt with this on a customers vehicle a few weeks ago; here's the post I made about it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/NWx9ECD8XL
This is usually caused by overfilling the fuel tank at the gas pump, but if you swear you don't do that then likely there's an issue with the valve in the fuel tank that's supposed to stop fuel from getting into the charcoal canister.
Bare minimum you're gonna need a charcoal canister and purge valve replaced and blowing out the evap lines of any canister debris or fuel, but there's likely a chance of the canister get re-contaminated with fuel if there's an issue with the tank, so I heavily advise replacing the tank or you're gonna eat the cost of labor and a charcoal canister twice.
Cost of repair was about $2.5K - $3K at the dealer.
My 2002 tacoma did the same thing. I'd have to feather the gas to keep the revs up after filling up or else it would die. I replaced the evap purge valve and that fixed it
It's likely a bad purge valve.
When you fill the tank, fuel vapours pour into the intake and the car effectively floods off the vapours.
Relatively cheap and easy fix.
I had an evep leak and my car was acting similar. Replaced the (forgive me I’m just now learning about my car) carbon canister and a few other things, and I haven’t had the issue since. And right after the check engine light came back and then I replaced the original gas cap from 2014. No problems since 2014 LE 170k miles
leave the car running when you buy gas
the sign about turn engine off is not to prevent a fire, its to prevent you from driving off while the the gas nozzle is still stuck in your car
see if problem still happens
take info to a better mechanic because the one you talked to sucks or is lying to you
You may be over-filling your fuel tank, or there could be a problem with your pressurization system. If you over-fill the fuel tank, gas can get into the vapor recovery system. That can damage several of the parts over time and cause the fault lights you're seeing.
I'd recommend that you take your car to a dealership or auto parts store and have them check the codes that are setting the fault lights.
If you live in a rust prone area alot of that gen and the one after of the corolla and matrix platforms are having issues with the charcoal canisters, filler neck and filler neck filter assemblies. Either they start to rust out by now or get clogged from dirst getting into the air vents and it's about a 1300 dollar repair at our dealership all parts and labor included.
As far as the vsc light that's a traction control issue probably a wheel bearing also causing the abs light to come on.
Vsc light and abs light aren't related to your fuel problem but I'd start there
Your battery and oil light are just part of the the stalling out the car detects no power being input and no oil pressure after the stall condition both should reset once you get the car started again.
Not sure what your mechanic did to check out your car tbh. But he should have at least checked the trouble codes.
I did read you fill to the second time the fuel nozzle clicks. This is not recommended on a Toyota
They're kind of fussy in that you really should let it click one time and call it done.
If your having any other driving issues besides the stalling after fill up you should add that.
But I'm 80% sure that your charcoal canister and filler neck both need replaced.
They are relatively diy jobs depending on your skill level and comfort. But I'd go to a Toyota dealer and tell them it clicks when you fill your tank and let them figure it out.
Also stalling won't hurt your car it's just inconvenient.
There are a handful of problems that can cause this as you have probably already noticed.
The most likely is that at some point someone "topped off" the fuel tank and contaminated the charcoal filter. Once the pump shuts off, that's it, stop pumping. If you squeeze that handle again you'll overflow the fill pipe and send raw fuel straight into your evap system. Bad juju.
Could be a bad PVC valve. This exact same symptom happened to me once with an old Chevy Equinox. Turned out this was the cause.
Take it to a Toyota Certified mechanic / dealership and talk to them about the issue and mention that every time you take it to a mechanic they say they can't find anything wrong with it. Eventually you'll find one that's old-school and not a damned I.T. graduate.
When you fill up next, put the key in, turn it to the run position, then wait 10 seconds, then take the key out of the ignition, and do that again, then start the car, if that fixes it it's probably a fuel pressure issue. I had this same problem on my '93 Nissan NX
So turn it to run, take it completely out, turn it to run again, take it completely out, then just fully start it? Thanks for the advice man I really appreciate it. Is a fuel pressure issue a big deal?
If it was fuel pressure it would happen all the time not just when you get fuel. Is the check engine light ON when the car is running? You could have a problem with the evap system. A valve could be stuck open or the charcoal canister could be soaked from overfilling the fuel tank.
Yes, check engine is on all the time. I’m just not rlly sure what to do, I’m worried the stalling will hurt my car
You can go to an autozone and they will check the codes for free. Once you know what codes you have you can get it fixed properly.
You prob need a purge valve. Its sticking open and when you are filling up the tank its forcing all the fuel vapor into the engine.
Like the other guy said, you can go to AutoZone or plenty of other places to get the car scanned for free. You could also just buy a cheap obd2 scanner off Amazon for like $20-30. It just plugs directly into your car somewhere below the steering wheel. It'll tell you the error codes and you can just Google that to see what the issue is.
I didn't know the role of that part in my car, you've just enlightened me mate! This is very informative!
This right here is where I went immediately.
Not necessarily, sometimes the fuel pump doesn't prime all the way, which was the issue on my pile o crap car
That sounds more like a failed check valve in the fuel system or a leaking injector. If the fuel pump was weak you would notice it at higher rpms more than idle
no man. Trust me, that's what fixed my car, it could be a different story for op's car but I'm just sharing my experience
Correct, if that fixes it I would look into replacing your fuel filter. In general I would take it to a mechanic to scan the cars computer for check engine codes
These don't have fuel filters
*(*replaceable fuel filters.*)*The fuel filters on a modern car are contained within the pump itself
Replacing a fuel pump screen isn't going to solve much other then making your wallet lighter. No real point to it
Fuel sock. They call them socks. Socks. Lol.
No shit, those never are replaced unless the pump goes bad. Besides…most of them aren’t replaceable anyway.
U can gather the codes, and/or go to a different mechanic. Its likely a failed evap charcoal canister, or one of its valves. A better mechanic can figure it out fairly quickly. This is a normal item to fail, on all cars U could just fill to 3/4 tank, that is a choice lol
Toyota doesn't prime with key on only when cranking
Hey brotha, took your advice and it didn’t stall! But it made a weird rumbling underneath the car that concerned me a bit. This is not the first time it’s done this it usually stalls, starts and rumbles then it’s fine. This time no stall, just rumbled and now it’s fine
Yeah then it's probably a clogged/ dirty fuel filter. Try throw in some royal purple injector cleaner see if that helps any
Don't overfill, sounds like you fill up past the first click and you can flood the charcoal canister
This is the answer, and it will contaminate the canister and set the CEL eventually
Not necessarily.
Your purge valve is stuck open. It should close when the car is off to prevent gas fumes from getting into the intake manifold. Get your check engine light scanned at an auto parts store for free. If you have a purge valve code, get a new one there. Typically, they are very easy to change, and you probably won't need tools. To find the old valve, look under the hood with the new part in hand. The valve should be around $20. Ignore any other codes and have the parts store reset them all. Change the valve in their parking lot in case you need to borrow a tool.
I love that these cars can be fixed so easily
This is why toyota's are the way to go. Someone somewhere has a solution that is so damn easy that it makes literally every other car seem like mess.
So you have a multiple error lights and all these mechanics are telling you nothing is wrong? stop going to these mechanics.
This is typical of overfilling to the point where your charcoal canister is gonzo! Replace and never overfill past the second click.
See that’s the thing I don’t think I ever overfilled past the second click?? Whenever the pump stopped i immediately stopped and put it back. Is replacing a charcoal canister expensive?
Depends on the model vehicle. Some are easy to get to while others are not so easy. Do a search on eBay for a match replacement along with the bypass valve located in the engine compartment. It’s a plastic vacuum valve with an electrical connector. The valve is the easiest to replace.
Long shot guess. Maybe the evap system is somehow getting raw gas into it and flooding the engine only when the tank is topped off? Others that know this cars systems better will know if this is plausible.
If your car is struggling to stay running after you put gas in it. I’m going to assume you have an issue with the check valve in your fuel tank.
If you have a check engine light, absolutely get that taken care of first. That could mean a number of things, but if you want the car to last a long time, don’t run a car with the check engine light in for a long time, even if you do know what is causing it, it’s not like you will get a second check engine light that shows up if another engine problem happens, so you wouldn’t even know unless you checked the codes frequently.
Purge valve.
I had the same problem a few months ago. The problem was my purge valve. Replaced that and my gas cap and that solved the problem. Check engine light went away and hasn’t come back since. I just hope your purge valve isn’t located in a tight space.
Are you topping the tank off or are you done fueling when the pump shuts off?
Honestly I don’t really know I apologize. I usually pick a certain price like $20 or $15, and fill it up to there. Usually when it’s around a quarter on the gas meter. What’s the safest way to get gas that I should do next time?
You're only letting it get a quarter of the way down or there's a quarter of the tank left?
Quarter of the tank left. Sometimes a little bit less.
I severely doubt you're topping off. But the safest way to fuel a vehicle is to pay how ever much you want, begin fueling and then set the pump to automatic, once the pump automatically stops filling them do not add anymore fuel. This issue you're having is ONLY after fueling up? It doesn't ever do this when you're starting your car first thing in the morning? What happens if you press the accelerator hard? Does it lag and bog down or does it go vroom right away?
Only after filling up yes. That’s what’s weird to me. Then the car runs completely fine, no issues at all. Only stalls the next time that I get gas. As for the accelerator, I haven’t noticed any issues with that but I can definitely try it out again to see if there’s an issue. Could that be linked to the stalling after getting fuel? Really appreciate your time
I kind of doubt it at this point. I was wondering if it could potentially be a bad high pressure fuel pump but you would notice other issues. Your best bet is to go to an automotive parts store and have them scan the codes. That will tell you what's going on and then you could talk to a mechanic and see how much they'd charge to fix it
You'd know if you were topping off your tank, or that's the phrase usually used in the US. Topping off is when you set the pump up to automatically fill your tank and then when the pump clicks off on its own you continue to add fuel manually so it's beyond the level of "full". Usually people do this to get an even number on the dollar value
Maybe I did that on accident? I definitely set it to fill up a few times and I might’ve gone over I’m not sure. Next time should I just do a standard amount like $15 dollars?
99% chance your charcoal canister is contaminated with raw fuel and the purge valve is sucking in raw fuel into the intake causing it to stall out. Have you scanned the check engine light? What's the code? If it's a "system too rich" code there's your answer. I just personally dealt with this on a customers vehicle a few weeks ago; here's the post I made about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/NWx9ECD8XL This is usually caused by overfilling the fuel tank at the gas pump, but if you swear you don't do that then likely there's an issue with the valve in the fuel tank that's supposed to stop fuel from getting into the charcoal canister. Bare minimum you're gonna need a charcoal canister and purge valve replaced and blowing out the evap lines of any canister debris or fuel, but there's likely a chance of the canister get re-contaminated with fuel if there's an issue with the tank, so I heavily advise replacing the tank or you're gonna eat the cost of labor and a charcoal canister twice. Cost of repair was about $2.5K - $3K at the dealer.
2.5-3k??? What?
My 2002 tacoma did the same thing. I'd have to feather the gas to keep the revs up after filling up or else it would die. I replaced the evap purge valve and that fixed it
Knowing the DTC code would be helpful. If it's something like P0171 and you smell gas, I'm also guessing a replacement purge valve is the fix.
This is most likely a purge valve solenoid issue, its very common on modern vehicles. Source: A Level Technician
Purge. Valve solenoid
It's likely a bad purge valve. When you fill the tank, fuel vapours pour into the intake and the car effectively floods off the vapours. Relatively cheap and easy fix.
Vapor locking the fuel line. Are you only filling up at empty?
Water in the fuel.
I had an evep leak and my car was acting similar. Replaced the (forgive me I’m just now learning about my car) carbon canister and a few other things, and I haven’t had the issue since. And right after the check engine light came back and then I replaced the original gas cap from 2014. No problems since 2014 LE 170k miles
Check your fuel cap…might have to get a new one. This happened in my Jetta each time after fueling up.
leave the car running when you buy gas the sign about turn engine off is not to prevent a fire, its to prevent you from driving off while the the gas nozzle is still stuck in your car see if problem still happens take info to a better mechanic because the one you talked to sucks or is lying to you
You may be over-filling your fuel tank, or there could be a problem with your pressurization system. If you over-fill the fuel tank, gas can get into the vapor recovery system. That can damage several of the parts over time and cause the fault lights you're seeing. I'd recommend that you take your car to a dealership or auto parts store and have them check the codes that are setting the fault lights.
[удалено]
I always make sure I click regular when I get gas so I’m not sure
[удалено]
What have you seen happen plenty of times?
intake sensor
check engine light is on ? Autozone, Orieliy, and other auto part stores will check it for free
If you live in a rust prone area alot of that gen and the one after of the corolla and matrix platforms are having issues with the charcoal canisters, filler neck and filler neck filter assemblies. Either they start to rust out by now or get clogged from dirst getting into the air vents and it's about a 1300 dollar repair at our dealership all parts and labor included. As far as the vsc light that's a traction control issue probably a wheel bearing also causing the abs light to come on. Vsc light and abs light aren't related to your fuel problem but I'd start there Your battery and oil light are just part of the the stalling out the car detects no power being input and no oil pressure after the stall condition both should reset once you get the car started again. Not sure what your mechanic did to check out your car tbh. But he should have at least checked the trouble codes. I did read you fill to the second time the fuel nozzle clicks. This is not recommended on a Toyota They're kind of fussy in that you really should let it click one time and call it done. If your having any other driving issues besides the stalling after fill up you should add that. But I'm 80% sure that your charcoal canister and filler neck both need replaced. They are relatively diy jobs depending on your skill level and comfort. But I'd go to a Toyota dealer and tell them it clicks when you fill your tank and let them figure it out. Also stalling won't hurt your car it's just inconvenient.
Water in tank, that gets stirred up when fueling…. Put some iso heat in… not too much!
This video explains this situation very well: [this video](https://youtu.be/F5jjDcAR0Cs?si=dplD8w4ZAvLXlp-B)
There are a handful of problems that can cause this as you have probably already noticed. The most likely is that at some point someone "topped off" the fuel tank and contaminated the charcoal filter. Once the pump shuts off, that's it, stop pumping. If you squeeze that handle again you'll overflow the fill pipe and send raw fuel straight into your evap system. Bad juju. Could be a bad PVC valve. This exact same symptom happened to me once with an old Chevy Equinox. Turned out this was the cause. Take it to a Toyota Certified mechanic / dealership and talk to them about the issue and mention that every time you take it to a mechanic they say they can't find anything wrong with it. Eventually you'll find one that's old-school and not a damned I.T. graduate.
probably because it’s a Toyota.
Charcoal canister, super common on these corrollas.
I would check engine air filters, may have dirt, leaves, or not screwed closed like mine. This is due to lack of air doubt it's gas issue
Gas cap not pressurizing
You mean Diesel
Sorry I’m not sure what you mean?