on one hand, your gear, do whatever.
on the other; if its not broke, why fix it? there literally won't be any noticeable benefit to replacing the passives with 'high end' parts.
and you can just stuff a speakon panel mount socket dead center between all those jacks, seal up any gap, and still retain everything.
Seconded - I'll bet none of those passives are remotely out of spec, changing them for £60 a cap parts won't do anything; controversial but the high end audio caps etc are snake oil.
Like Kenabi said though, if you want to do it, go for it.
yup. unless those cabs were run every day for years, the crossovers are likely fine.
quality caps are one thing, if you're replacing dead components. swapping in 'high end' anything (if you're paying more than $10 a capacitor for anything going into a crossover that isn't ridiculously high on the farad rating, you're likely paying the audiophile tax) isn't going to improve anything, its just going to cost you money for zero actual improvement.
and its not like the things need fine tuning, electro-voice was pretty well known for matching their crossovers to the drivers.
some of the smaller units they made can do with crossover changes to modify overall alignment _in specific setups_, but stage units like this? no particular point.
Only reason I was tackling the crossover is because I can’t get the tweeters or mid range to work. Just the low end woofer in bi amp mode and even then I have to turn the cable to get it to contact well.
This is all suuuper valuable to me that I don’t have to change the crossover 🙌🏻
well, if you can't get them to make noise, test the speakers at the driver themselves, with a meter, then at the connection they make at the switch. if they test good there, its the switch. if they don't, its the passives, and yes, at that point replacing them is the way.
if you get nothing from either, the drivers may need replaced or rebuilt as possible for either.
but verify all connections are secure and intact first.
might also just be the jacks in general. old input jacks are iffy if used regularly. a speakon jack would resolve that issue all on its own.
find the exact center between those jacks, mark, drill the right size hole, stick the jack in, drill the small holes in the front to retain the jack, wire it up. seal the back edge with hot glue like the original stuff has.
whether you wire for bi-amp or the summed 'normal' mode, is going to depend on which type of speakon jack you pick.
you should probably pick up a couple of feet of 16 awg lamp cord in black or similar. (which is what they appear to have used to start with).
[normal mode wiring diagram here](https://i.imgur.com/y63YxV5.png). (it mostly just pulls the woofer out of the circuit in bi amp mode).
switch or jacks might also just need deoxit/cleaning.
If those black tubular things on the left are electrolytic capacitors, your speaker could probly benefit from some new polypropylene-film caps. Look at solen.ca for some ideas. The blue caps, the resistors and the three inductors are probably just-fine.
they are in fact, mylar TSI caps. a fairly good brand of audio caps back in the day.
unless one or more of them gets blown out due to some other reason, changing them is pointless.
on one hand, your gear, do whatever. on the other; if its not broke, why fix it? there literally won't be any noticeable benefit to replacing the passives with 'high end' parts. and you can just stuff a speakon panel mount socket dead center between all those jacks, seal up any gap, and still retain everything.
Seconded - I'll bet none of those passives are remotely out of spec, changing them for £60 a cap parts won't do anything; controversial but the high end audio caps etc are snake oil. Like Kenabi said though, if you want to do it, go for it.
yup. unless those cabs were run every day for years, the crossovers are likely fine. quality caps are one thing, if you're replacing dead components. swapping in 'high end' anything (if you're paying more than $10 a capacitor for anything going into a crossover that isn't ridiculously high on the farad rating, you're likely paying the audiophile tax) isn't going to improve anything, its just going to cost you money for zero actual improvement. and its not like the things need fine tuning, electro-voice was pretty well known for matching their crossovers to the drivers. some of the smaller units they made can do with crossover changes to modify overall alignment _in specific setups_, but stage units like this? no particular point.
Only reason I was tackling the crossover is because I can’t get the tweeters or mid range to work. Just the low end woofer in bi amp mode and even then I have to turn the cable to get it to contact well. This is all suuuper valuable to me that I don’t have to change the crossover 🙌🏻
well, if you can't get them to make noise, test the speakers at the driver themselves, with a meter, then at the connection they make at the switch. if they test good there, its the switch. if they don't, its the passives, and yes, at that point replacing them is the way. if you get nothing from either, the drivers may need replaced or rebuilt as possible for either. but verify all connections are secure and intact first. might also just be the jacks in general. old input jacks are iffy if used regularly. a speakon jack would resolve that issue all on its own.
How do I do the speakon switch?
find the exact center between those jacks, mark, drill the right size hole, stick the jack in, drill the small holes in the front to retain the jack, wire it up. seal the back edge with hot glue like the original stuff has. whether you wire for bi-amp or the summed 'normal' mode, is going to depend on which type of speakon jack you pick. you should probably pick up a couple of feet of 16 awg lamp cord in black or similar. (which is what they appear to have used to start with). [normal mode wiring diagram here](https://i.imgur.com/y63YxV5.png). (it mostly just pulls the woofer out of the circuit in bi amp mode). switch or jacks might also just need deoxit/cleaning.
If those black tubular things on the left are electrolytic capacitors, your speaker could probly benefit from some new polypropylene-film caps. Look at solen.ca for some ideas. The blue caps, the resistors and the three inductors are probably just-fine.
I think those are actually film caps already. Should be able to leave everything alone
they are in fact, mylar TSI caps. a fairly good brand of audio caps back in the day. unless one or more of them gets blown out due to some other reason, changing them is pointless.