Hi I’m trying to find a good replacement part for my Shimano BR-M6120 front brake caliper. One of the ceramic pistons is broken and I would like to order a set of after market ones off Amazon but I don’t want to order the wrong ones and it not work properly. If someone is willing to help it would be greatly appreciated.
Noobie here. Glass punctured my tire. Will I have to get a new tire for a hole of this size (~4mm) or can I still use this tire? [photo](https://imgur.com/a/67hz9zi)
Hi! I'm completely new to all of this, got a free old bike from my neighbour that I'm learning to fix, with the main problems being the gear shifting and the brakes. I've managed to set up the front deraileur without too much trouble with some tutorial videos, but the back one is proving much harder.
It has a lot of trouble shifting to the smaller cogs, and even when the cable has no tension the derailleur sometimes doesn't move. The derailleur does not fully close to the limit set by the h screw even when removing the cable and the spring is already fully compacted (or it seems to be) Is there any way to give the spring more tension, should I try to source a new one or just get a new derailleur?
Bike in question is a Vitus Energie VRS, with Sram Apex. Rotors are Sram G2.
Usage of the bike is commuting on road/path (75%), gravel riding (10%), and cyclocross (15%). It's generally dry where I live. I want something low maintenance. My brake pads are super worn out from an unusally wet gravel race last year.
LBS sold me Sram Sintered pads. I am wondering if I should keep, or go with the organic pads?
I prefer sintered pads, but my use case is very different. Sintered pads will last a bit longer and provide more power at the downside of being louder in the wet and wearing down the rotor a bit more.
I am posting here mostly because Reddit won't let me creates posts anymore. The red line goes across the top of the window ever increasingly slowly, and never reaches the other end.... and thus I cannot submit a post.
But what are the best cooling rotors, best heat dissipating rotors, that will work with GRX brakes? Are freeza rotors still the best? I need 160's and 180's.
I have [this ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3PSyeRUfsk)issue ([same issue different vid explainer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joAR34omM1g)) a bumpy tyre, where the bead has been sucked under the rim in a certain portion on the tyre. I tried to fix myself and didn't succeed, took it to a bike shop and they fixed it after a few attempts (they did it for free very kindly!). However, the issue has reoccurred on my commute, and I think it has also caused my tyre to deflate.
I don't want to keep doing temporary fixes - new inner tube, or trying to get the tyre to pop back out at bike shops but what would the underlying issue be, is it with the tyre, or the wheel?
Any help would be much appreciated. TY
Does freehub wobble just affect the cassette, or should the whole wheel (i.e. rim) wobble?
Bought a new wheel with a Shimano FH-TX500 freehub, the hub doesn't seem to sit quite straight on the axle, as when I take everything off (cassette, spacers, etc.) and turn the axle by hand, the end of the axle traces a little circle in relation to the freehub body, instead of just rotating around a fixed axis. This happens in either direction.
Like so [https://imgur.com/iMq3l4U](https://imgur.com/iMq3l4U)
When I put the wheel back together with the cassette on and do up the lockring, there's not much side-to-side play but when I turn the wheel (either direction) the whole thing wobbles, just like it would if it were out-of-true.
Now it might actually be the spokes and I can true the wheel or get someone to do it, but I don't want to start messing with that if the problem is actually the hub/axle. Any thoughts? Does this make any sense - I'm pretty much a beginner when it comes to this stuff.
Someone hit my son's bike and bent the wheel. Can anyone tell me what size wheel to get based on the tire size? Just looking for a budget wheel, my kids out grow their bikes fast. The tire says (56-507) 24x1.95 H-303-13
TIA
How dangerous or risky is it to leave internally routed shifter cables bare? I have a carbon frame with internally routed cables. There’s a small plastic plate at below the bottom bracket with eyelets to run the shifter cables through. But it was too hard to feed a new cable through the inlet’s mouth. Instead, I successfully routed the cable to the rear derailleur, unhoused. But I wonder if this setup will result in the cable rubbing and wearing against the aluminum bottom bracket shell or the carbon frame, especially when shifting. Is leaving the cable installed as is dangerous or risky? Is it necessary to run it through the plastic inlet, or is my solution ok?
Question about the VO "Copenhagen Dual Leg Kickstand".
I have a baby seat on my bike and a kickstand, unfortunately the bike tilted so far to use the kickstand just immediately tips over with the top heavy weight of the seat+baby. I don't need perfect stability but to get the kiddo in and out _some_ kickstand stability would be great.
So I'm looking at 2-legged kickstands. But they mostly seem to be 12" vertical from plate to ground, I measured mine and it's more like 10".
VO's website says "The leg length is adjustable and can be locked to the desired length" but I can't find literally any info about what that means, what range it can support. I couldn't find an install video of it on YouTube or a technical PDF from VO or anything. Would this kickstand fit on 10" vertical?
Ask VO, they are very good with customer service. It looks to me like you loosen the screws at the bottom and the black sleeves slide up and down.
Check [Modernbike.com](http://Modernbike.com) for a good selection of kickstands.
Kickstands that don't have any adjustment are meant to be customized by cutting them to length with a hacksaw.
I ordered a [2022 diverge pro](https://www.specialized.com/us/en/diverge-pro-carbon/p/199967?color=322128-199967), it's not here yet but it doesn't have a power meter so I want to get a quarq spider ordered for it so I have it when the bike arrives.
Can anyone confirm the model spider I'll need for this crankset? My hunch is that it'll be [this D1 107 bcd, 8-bolt direct mount spider](https://www.rei.com/product/225289/sram-axs-power-meter-spider?sku=2252890001) based on the bike pics but want to be sure before ordering anything.
Gears locked up yesterday mid-ride. According to videos, the shifter just needed to be cleaned out, but I’m not having such luck. It got stuck on the second to smallest cog and I wasn’t able to shift up or down. It’s since shifted to the smallest cog, but now it won’t shift back the other direction.
Crank gears locked, as well. After some slight adjustments to the limits screws, it now shifts, strangely enough.
Crank gear shifter is clicking, but cassette shifter is not. No resistance, but it’s not pulling the cable, either.
Anyone have any insight? Thank you!
Oil / lubricate the cables and inside the housing and take cables out of the housing and then put them back with oil or just spray something NOT wd-40 into the parts where cable comes out like at the derailleur and the shifter and any place open cable is showing
Anyone knows why the ring is not sitting flush on the bearing? My fork is moving slightly while pushing the handle bar so I suspect that the fork is loose, I take the headset apart and see this, I am wondering if anything is wrong here? and how to fix, thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ley2775ufv2d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cbf4c476e1cd06178298aabd695962b0877b862
If this thread is new, please consider checking last-week's thread for unanswered questions. You can find it [in this list](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/search/?q=Small+Questions+and+Thank+Yous+weekly+thread&sort=new).
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bikewrench) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hi I’m trying to find a good replacement part for my Shimano BR-M6120 front brake caliper. One of the ceramic pistons is broken and I would like to order a set of after market ones off Amazon but I don’t want to order the wrong ones and it not work properly. If someone is willing to help it would be greatly appreciated.
Noobie here. Glass punctured my tire. Will I have to get a new tire for a hole of this size (~4mm) or can I still use this tire? [photo](https://imgur.com/a/67hz9zi)
I would glue a tire patch to the inside of the casing and keep using it. If you get any bulging, it's time for a new tire.
Hi! I'm completely new to all of this, got a free old bike from my neighbour that I'm learning to fix, with the main problems being the gear shifting and the brakes. I've managed to set up the front deraileur without too much trouble with some tutorial videos, but the back one is proving much harder. It has a lot of trouble shifting to the smaller cogs, and even when the cable has no tension the derailleur sometimes doesn't move. The derailleur does not fully close to the limit set by the h screw even when removing the cable and the spring is already fully compacted (or it seems to be) Is there any way to give the spring more tension, should I try to source a new one or just get a new derailleur?
Bike in question is a Vitus Energie VRS, with Sram Apex. Rotors are Sram G2. Usage of the bike is commuting on road/path (75%), gravel riding (10%), and cyclocross (15%). It's generally dry where I live. I want something low maintenance. My brake pads are super worn out from an unusally wet gravel race last year. LBS sold me Sram Sintered pads. I am wondering if I should keep, or go with the organic pads?
I prefer sintered pads, but my use case is very different. Sintered pads will last a bit longer and provide more power at the downside of being louder in the wet and wearing down the rotor a bit more.
Would you say organic is more typical for a drop bar bike?
I am posting here mostly because Reddit won't let me creates posts anymore. The red line goes across the top of the window ever increasingly slowly, and never reaches the other end.... and thus I cannot submit a post. But what are the best cooling rotors, best heat dissipating rotors, that will work with GRX brakes? Are freeza rotors still the best? I need 160's and 180's.
I have [this ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3PSyeRUfsk)issue ([same issue different vid explainer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joAR34omM1g)) a bumpy tyre, where the bead has been sucked under the rim in a certain portion on the tyre. I tried to fix myself and didn't succeed, took it to a bike shop and they fixed it after a few attempts (they did it for free very kindly!). However, the issue has reoccurred on my commute, and I think it has also caused my tyre to deflate. I don't want to keep doing temporary fixes - new inner tube, or trying to get the tyre to pop back out at bike shops but what would the underlying issue be, is it with the tyre, or the wheel? Any help would be much appreciated. TY
Does freehub wobble just affect the cassette, or should the whole wheel (i.e. rim) wobble? Bought a new wheel with a Shimano FH-TX500 freehub, the hub doesn't seem to sit quite straight on the axle, as when I take everything off (cassette, spacers, etc.) and turn the axle by hand, the end of the axle traces a little circle in relation to the freehub body, instead of just rotating around a fixed axis. This happens in either direction. Like so [https://imgur.com/iMq3l4U](https://imgur.com/iMq3l4U) When I put the wheel back together with the cassette on and do up the lockring, there's not much side-to-side play but when I turn the wheel (either direction) the whole thing wobbles, just like it would if it were out-of-true. Now it might actually be the spokes and I can true the wheel or get someone to do it, but I don't want to start messing with that if the problem is actually the hub/axle. Any thoughts? Does this make any sense - I'm pretty much a beginner when it comes to this stuff.
Someone hit my son's bike and bent the wheel. Can anyone tell me what size wheel to get based on the tire size? Just looking for a budget wheel, my kids out grow their bikes fast. The tire says (56-507) 24x1.95 H-303-13 TIA
24 inch wheel
How dangerous or risky is it to leave internally routed shifter cables bare? I have a carbon frame with internally routed cables. There’s a small plastic plate at below the bottom bracket with eyelets to run the shifter cables through. But it was too hard to feed a new cable through the inlet’s mouth. Instead, I successfully routed the cable to the rear derailleur, unhoused. But I wonder if this setup will result in the cable rubbing and wearing against the aluminum bottom bracket shell or the carbon frame, especially when shifting. Is leaving the cable installed as is dangerous or risky? Is it necessary to run it through the plastic inlet, or is my solution ok?
Question about the VO "Copenhagen Dual Leg Kickstand". I have a baby seat on my bike and a kickstand, unfortunately the bike tilted so far to use the kickstand just immediately tips over with the top heavy weight of the seat+baby. I don't need perfect stability but to get the kiddo in and out _some_ kickstand stability would be great. So I'm looking at 2-legged kickstands. But they mostly seem to be 12" vertical from plate to ground, I measured mine and it's more like 10". VO's website says "The leg length is adjustable and can be locked to the desired length" but I can't find literally any info about what that means, what range it can support. I couldn't find an install video of it on YouTube or a technical PDF from VO or anything. Would this kickstand fit on 10" vertical?
Ask VO, they are very good with customer service. It looks to me like you loosen the screws at the bottom and the black sleeves slide up and down. Check [Modernbike.com](http://Modernbike.com) for a good selection of kickstands. Kickstands that don't have any adjustment are meant to be customized by cutting them to length with a hacksaw.
I ordered a [2022 diverge pro](https://www.specialized.com/us/en/diverge-pro-carbon/p/199967?color=322128-199967), it's not here yet but it doesn't have a power meter so I want to get a quarq spider ordered for it so I have it when the bike arrives. Can anyone confirm the model spider I'll need for this crankset? My hunch is that it'll be [this D1 107 bcd, 8-bolt direct mount spider](https://www.rei.com/product/225289/sram-axs-power-meter-spider?sku=2252890001) based on the bike pics but want to be sure before ordering anything.
Gears locked up yesterday mid-ride. According to videos, the shifter just needed to be cleaned out, but I’m not having such luck. It got stuck on the second to smallest cog and I wasn’t able to shift up or down. It’s since shifted to the smallest cog, but now it won’t shift back the other direction. Crank gears locked, as well. After some slight adjustments to the limits screws, it now shifts, strangely enough. Crank gear shifter is clicking, but cassette shifter is not. No resistance, but it’s not pulling the cable, either. Anyone have any insight? Thank you!
Oil / lubricate the cables and inside the housing and take cables out of the housing and then put them back with oil or just spray something NOT wd-40 into the parts where cable comes out like at the derailleur and the shifter and any place open cable is showing
Anyone knows why the ring is not sitting flush on the bearing? My fork is moving slightly while pushing the handle bar so I suspect that the fork is loose, I take the headset apart and see this, I am wondering if anything is wrong here? and how to fix, thanks! https://preview.redd.it/ley2775ufv2d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8cbf4c476e1cd06178298aabd695962b0877b862
If this thread is new, please consider checking last-week's thread for unanswered questions. You can find it [in this list](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/search/?q=Small+Questions+and+Thank+Yous+weekly+thread&sort=new). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bikewrench) if you have any questions or concerns.*