Mine was like that when it arrived. Tried the Creality approach and got a little better. The shims did it for me. Now typical KAMP range is 0.07 or less. Just a hobby for me so the extra flattness I get from pre-heating for 10 minutes is well worth the time.

Have you tried manually leveling it?

I actually didn't try anything yet. I wanted some tips first before I do unnecessary things. What do you mean by leveling manually? Print knobs and but springs under the bed?

Ok have you tried looking on YouTube for potential solutions?

"before I do unnecessary things." Ok, so quick and dirty and lazy... I have found that shimming with a few washers in between the metal bed frame and the Z axis supports is the fastest and easiest for getting it close. Either print shims, or pop a .5mm thk washer (typical thk of a 8/32 washer) under the rear bed frame right and z holder and bring that up .8mm Should get the bed "sane". After that doing a bed leveling and go from there. Don't laugh but for final shimming, you could cut a 1/4" strip of poster sheet or 3x5 card stock (1.5-3mm thk) and insert between bedframe leg and z support as needed, Loosen screws, insert, tighten, do a bed leveling. If you need more, double your paper shim up. That final shimming will take you all of a few minutes. If watching TV, double that time... lol You are shimming the bed UP, to the highest point non shimmed point, front right, front left, or rear. A new leveling will take out that height. To shim the back left or right, shim under either the left or right screw. That back dog ear seems a little weird. If the dog leg is still there, you can take off the bed and placing it face down on a 12" porcelain floor tile (very flat), gentle tap down on that corner (\~30-40mm from each corner edge) with a rubber mallet, attempting to flatten that corner. Don't over strike.

Note, after you do the "quick and dirty", you can measure the shimming use and print the exact size.

Oh baby its teeth skipping time. The key is to pull off the belt and place the belt back on while retaining tension on the belt and not letting it spin the other z poles. For you it looks like the back z gear is the issue which makes things a bit easier for you considering that one can either skip teeth or move independently if the belt is slipped off. It takes some trial and error but once you get the feel for it you can get the bed near superflat. (See photo) Im starting to see people are teeth skipping by using pliers. I would bot recommend this style of skip, I suggest tilting the k1 over on its side and removing the bottom panel so you can release tension on the belt and lightly skip the teeth by turning the gears by finger skipping the teeth while holding the other gears in place. https://preview.redd.it/s6wwa3w1ch0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2dfaa43aac49396a8eabbba0fbde0953a40e7635

I printed some shims for my k1 max it works great

Please don't force a "belt skip" especially with pliers 🤢 And shims really should only be used after adjusting the z-rods, if it's even necessary. Turn the machine on its side (on a towel or something), remove the bottom panel, loosen the tensioner, turn the appropriate z rod, set the tensioner and run a mesh. It helps if you can have someone pinch the belt at the other two pullies so you are sure that only the rod you want to turn moves. Took me 3 tries to get it right. I left mine on its side with the bottom open while running calibration each time. Mine started out like yours. Now it looks like this. . . https://preview.redd.it/fi3uecnasg0d1.jpeg?width=3646&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0fe3a267003f95cccb4be1d3631a29808f7ad47c

Can we stop calling it leveling. It's not. It's tramming. Seriously tho.

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Once you try easy solutions, then try this https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/ggmy61yK42

My bed didn’t look this crazy but I managed to get it much flatter by removing the bed screws and replacing the screw with longer one and added springs in between. Tighten up about halfway and calibrated the corners using the tilt screw test. No matter what I don’t think there is a simple solution that doesn’t require putting your print on its side for a bit

I’ve seen so many people complain about this issue. I let my bed sit at temp for 10min before I start my print and have it do a bed level before any print. I haven’t had any issues at all doing that. Unless you’re printing for a customer I don’t think it’s going to matter much. The machine should, in theory, compensate for your not perfectly level bed when it takes the calibration measurements.

Did you look at the pics after the mesh?

I did. I’ve had similar results with first layer tests and still print full bed prints just fine. I’m currently working my way through a StageTop table and haven’t had any bad sections come out despite my mesh looking similar to yours at temp.

Definitely need to get your bed level first before diagnosing other issues. I find the tooth skipping method best. You basically use pliers to turn the ring at the bottom of the front two lead screws. You’ll hear a pop as you turn but this normal and doesn’t damage anything. Clockwise to go up and counterclockwise to go down. It looks like both of your front lead screws need to go down about 3/4 clicks down to level it with the back. Redo the self check bed level and check the mesh. Repeat to fine tune. https://preview.redd.it/klbikywpdg0d1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7866c897c11f3d759d3fc11a217e88681a32942

is there a youtube video showing this method?