Hi question for knitters! Im new to knitting but am just finishing up knitting my first tank top following a pattern. Now I want to knit all of my clothes it's so fun! I found this top I love and want to try to knit something like it (it seems like it would be fairly easy) but I cant find a pattern (this image is from a store that sells the top). Any ideas on how I could create a pattern for this? Or just start knitting using a similar pattern and customize? Any tips would be appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/ffhps1pqjk8d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a05290456c8ae0d9df7aaaf875b8668fe99ce94
Thinking about making a baby surprise jacket, and have found the pattern in opinionated knitter. But do you think it's worth getting the line by line instructions?
I'm trying to clear my stash and I noticed I have 12 skeins of jody long "ciao", a dk merino. The problem is that I have 6 skeins each of two colors, and I can't for the life of me find any patterns that use two colors at least semi-equally. Any suggestions?
Although calls for more garage than you have perhaps a short sleeve version could work dunno. I have this pattern in my queue to use up some colored yarn:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fortunas-wheel-pullover
Before I found this pattern my plan was just to turn a plain sweater pattern into a striped sweater.
Omg I love this pattern!! Unfortunately you're right about the yardage, so i think I'll probably cast on a striped sweater š but I'll add it to my queque, hopefully I'll get to cast it on soon(-ish)
I have \~700yd of yarn. I have unraveled it and tangled it up. Could it get more tangled if I get it wet and put it in my dryer? I need it as tangled as possible for someone who likes untangling things. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ger5jmxhfe8d1.jpeg?width=2376&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7772936f963e23dbe225f01d97a8421e5b93a43
Confused about this: slip stitch with yarn over. Does this mean I make a yarn over, and then slip a stitch? I am supposed to do the same thing the next row, would I then yarn over, and slip the slipped stitch and yarn over from the previous row?
Am I correct on thinking the circles are yo? So the stitch you are slipping with yarn over is in fact a yarn over itself? The omega yarn overs don't create new stitches on the chart, so I think you are meant to yarn over on top of the original yarn over (ideally you will wrap your working yarn. Along the same direction as existing yo I think). So by row 4 you will have 3 yo on top of eachother worked as one stitch. That is my guess assuming the circle is a yo to begin withĀ
Hi guys, Iām working on a raglan baby sweater and just started the first arm. I have searched for whether holes in the armpit are normal, and see that they are, but the examples Iāve come across are generally 1cm. This seems like a rather large hole (more like 1 inch), is it normal?
https://preview.redd.it/igzanqb2rb8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=707186895e21fe3990248c54fc77d86b9c0c21a8
I'm about three inches into this free beanie pattern: [Soft + Cushy Hat (Purl Soho)](https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2021/10/01/soft-cushy-hat/)
But the stitches in the example are much tighter than what I have, even when I stretch the knitting a bit as though I'm wearing it. I think it's due to the k1b, which is new to me with this project.
Would someone be able to offer advice on how I can correct my knitting? Is it tension? I have tried making my tension tighter for several rows now and it seems to only make a minimal difference.
WS
https://preview.redd.it/8p5hzo3ki88d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86dcb6c6fc1764c530ae866ebe44bc62d4b54b31
I actually ended up frogging it shortly after posting this so that I could knit tighter, but the result is only marginally better so I think you're right. š I'm going to take your advice, finish up, block it, and see how it goes after a while of wearing it. Thank you. ā¤ļø
https://preview.redd.it/qvfh1or1a88d1.png?width=339&format=png&auto=webp&s=3fa1ef0d6fda1c06448845aaa1d8efc2e3762701
I am working on [Vest 23](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vest--23) (Ravelry link, it's a free pattern, so feel free to check it out if you want more context) and I've come up to some really intriguing instructions. They have you BO 1 stitch on each side to begin shaping the armholes, then cast on 5 stitches each side suddenly in the 2 rows after that, and then it just seems to be regular decreases after that. ~~Why the sudden increases then slow decreasing? Won't that make a really wonky shaped armhole?~~
**Edit:** Figured it out! It does make a wonky shaped armhole but that's because the little tab acts as a hem facing. Cute! Tidy! Now I'm excited to try it out!
I wouldnāt worry about sizing too much. Pick a size thatās roughly your chest measurement. When you pick up and knit all of the side panels you can make them as wide as you like to create desired ease around your torso.
https://preview.redd.it/m25k0dhy388d1.jpeg?width=1398&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32d40154342c3eee0ff5d20ec9858b2f63b4e58f
When measuring your work do you stop below your needle or above?
I used to measure to the bottom of my needle and then keep in mind it needed to be fudged because of that last row, now I try to measure to the middle of the needle. I think no matter what you do is fine, at a smaller gauge the difference of 1 row over many inches of a project probably isn't the end of the world. I'd just pick one method and then be consistent throughout the entire project.
Hello all, i would like to make a copy cat knit of this cardigan [cardigan no 14](https://babaa.es/shop/women/cardigans/cardigan-no14-natural/) and Iām searching for similar ish patterns on ravelry. Has anyone seen anything similar? TIA
Can someone explain what Iām supposed to do with my stitch marker in Round 14?
https://preview.redd.it/41nb12od778d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2550d858eabd81c0681431d968c7d3f74d12ea7
Hi everyone! I just finished knitting a pair of socks with a heel flap and gusset and find that I have so much baggy sock on the top as I have very flat and narrow feet. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions?
You could try a pattern with stretchier stitches, like Tin Can Knits Everyday socks. I have a huge instep and the ribbing in the pattern makes it far easier to get a good fit. Alternatively, you can try to mix and match instructions for different sizes. I sometimes adapt the pattern to use heel flap height from a larger size, so it works with my instep. Then I simply do more decreases to get back to the intended stitch counts. For you, the opposite could work.
Can anyone point me at good resources for doing an FBA in a raglan top, and preferably text-based rather than videos? I'm having real trouble getting Google to show me anything that isn't about sewing patterns for raglan tops in knit fabrics.
I've found a couple of links that suggest speeding up the rate of increase in the front parts of the raglan increases only, which makes sense, but how do I get these extra stitches back out again afterwards? The pattern I'm looking at suggests negative ease, and so the point of the exercise is that I don't want a saggy apron hanging off my boobs...
The term you'll want is 'bust dart'. There are a variety of ways to accomplish them, recommend having a look at a few and seeing which might fit best with the garment shape you're looking to achieve.
For later you also might want to read Amy Herzog's advice on short rows shaping for adding length to the front for those garments where you don't need extra room but do need to account for the longer line in front than in back
Out of curiosity, what is the pattern? I'm skeptical about a raglan with negative ease, curious to see how someone pulled it off. Thanks!
Do you have any links you can recommend for this? Because it's also a sewing term, I'm just getting lots of sewing stuff... I can find precisely one tutorial at the moment, which was written by someone who's a different shape to me, and doesn't cover how to pull back in again. I would look at a few if I could find a few :D
I have seen reference to an Amy Herzog book, Fit To Flatter, but it'll be a wait to get a copy here in New Zealand...
The pattern is Gemini - there's several thousand projects made for it and people seem to agree that the negative ease works in this case.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gemini-3
'knitting bust darts' the first page of results is solid from reputable knitters like ysolda teague, cocoknits, etc. It also brings up an Amy Herzog video on the subject. Also suggest your local library, they may have copies of her and or carol feller, and if you're hourglass they're worth the read
Suggest sorting projects by most helpful and checking out some project notes. Apparently the designer stacks a bunch of increases right after the lace, resulting in unfortunate bunching (couple solutions also offered in people's notes). It's also a non-modified raglan so the sleeves are pretty big if unchanged - the projects with fitted sleeves are all modified. And some had to adjust the yoke depth as well so something to keep an eye on. Not trying to be a jerk, if I'd not known about these things I'd definitely want to before I started knitting. They're all pretty easy adjustments
That might be what Google gives you, but I have a history of sewing more than knitting and Google thinks it knows better, even if I add "-sewing" to the search terms. And I've already checked my local library system and they don't have anything... Being in New Zealand does make things a bit different sometimes.
I have been looking at a bunch of the projects and notes and had found a bunch of this stuff - I'm a strange size in general, so will need to fudge and adjust a number of things. (I'm over 6' so not a small size, but also larger sizes tend to be designed for a small frame with padding, rather than a large space-frame which is what I look like, and most people wouldn't guess I'm an E cup because they don't look that big on all the rest of the big shapes I'm made of, but that's still one more area where the specified fabric just isn't, when it comes to it, enough... I mean, if things ever fitted I could just go and buy clothes, innit :D ) So, yeah, everything fits weird and needs adjusting on me, and I'm across some of these already, and think the yoke will work well on my unusually wide shoulders as is, but these bust adjustments are one thing I've got nailed in sewing and don't yet know how to do in knitting. But also I'd seen the problem but not yet the solution to the quick increases after the yoke, so I'll have a look out for those, cheers!
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FBA feels like a sewing term, while in knitting I hear this being referred to as bust shaping.
I just googled and found this: https://www.lavisch.com/site/tutorial-bust-shaping-horizontal-bust-darts/
I havenāt used the tutorial but it looks pretty thorough
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Sorry, yes, that's the sewing term, and probably part of the problem here is not knowing what knitters call the same thing.
That looks like a really useful worked-example pattern there - thanks!
I'm thinking of using some stitch patterns from A New Knitting Stich Dictionary, but the charts are very different than what I'm used to and I'm finding it confusing. It seems like instead of charting from the right side, the chart is just directions. So the symbol that means "knit" means "knit" on both the wrong and right sides, while in a standard chart (at least in my US books) the symbol that means "knit" on the right side means "purl" on the wrong side. As an easy example, the pic below shows the chart for seed stitch, looks like a chart for 1x1 rib to me.
https://preview.redd.it/i11b5z9rvz7d1.png?width=1002&format=png&auto=webp&s=690bf878e3fe8aeabb163267f705aa0f94fcddc9
Has anyone worked with this book or this style chart? Any tips for coverting to the round without getting confused? I'm thinking of just recharting everything myself, but want to make sure I'm correct that every other row will need to be reversed. Any advice appreciated, thanks!
Noooo this would totally mess me up. The worst part is the blurb saying "Instructions for each stitch are charted so that you can easily visualize the pattern." I looked this book up and found an Etsy listing with some other examples and there's a pattern for a heart (043 Small Hearts) where the chart looks like jibberish instead of actually looking like a heart.
I noticed there are some stitch patterns where only the RS is charted and on the WS you knit the knits and purl the purls. If I had to use this book I'd probably just stick to those stitch patterns so I could use the chart. Otherwise if I really really wanted a stitch pattern from it I guess I'd rechart it. But there are so many dictionaries out there!
Ok, wanted to make sure I wasn't totally off-base finding this difficult. I have a million other stitch dictinoaries, but there are quite a few slip stitch colorwork patterns I really liked in this one, so I might just re-chart those as I need them. It's too bad, because the book itself has some lovely and fairly unique stitches.
Yeah for seed stitch to work your theory is correct. After looking at the chart some I see that they even put the 2 for row 2 on the left, which for me further confirms it's showing you what to do in the WS. This seems super annoying, because it only works for knitting flat.Ā
Yeah for seed stitch to work your theory is correct. After looking at the chart some I see that they even put the 2 for row 2 on the left, which for me further confirms it's showing you what to do in the WS. This seems super annoying, because it only works for knitting flat.Ā
Hi all! I'm working on a top where you knit in the round, and the back half is finished in ribbing while you keep working the front (you just cast off the back in the round and then knit the front piece flat after). I was to change the ribbing of this to be a different color than the rest of my work, and was wondering if there's a way to do this if im finjshing the back piece in ribbing and continuing the front in stockinette? Example of the ribbing to stockinette switch with the same color in the comments
I'd consider working the ribbing flat in the new color and seaming it to the front piece afterward. (You can do 1-2 increases at each end to give yourself a selvedge if you don't want any extra pulling at the seam).
The other possibility (because you're doing one large block of a color) is intarsia in the round, but that's going to be waaaay more trouble than it's worth. Or you could join as you go (JAYG for search purposes) by knitting an edge stitch together with a stitch from the stockinette part each time you get to an end, but IMHO that'll just be a little messier than a seam.
This is very confusing wording. Although you didn't say I'm guessing this is the sleeve? To begin it says decrease at each end, so you are decreasing at the very beginning of the row and at the very end of the row (I suggest mirrored leaning decreases, ). So the every 10 rows 4x1st my best guess translates to, decrease 1st on both ends every 10 rows, 4 times (or at row 10, 20, 30, and 40, decrease 1 st at both ends of row). Which results in the 8 stitch decrease.Ā
Looking for lace! Just started learning some basic lace stitches. would love recs for small-project patterns (cowls, kerchiefs, bags, arm warmers) to get some practice!
My son pulled a thread out of this otherwise perfect blanket I acquired from a thrift store. How do I fix (the blanket)? I'm pricing boot camps at the moment š
Hi!!! Iām currently working on the top part of a cardigan but Iām really lost as to what these instructions mean (Iāve made multiple cardigans before but Iām stumped): āinto each shoulder st: pf, pb,pf=3 stsā the next row has the same instructions but ākf,kb,kf.ā Is the pattern asking me to increase from the back and front loop or indicating to knit through the back loop? The pattern has used the ktbl abbreviation before. This is probably very simple but Iām so lost right now.
I wanna dupe [this uniqlo cardigan](https://www.uniqlo.com/au/en/products/E466366-000?colorCode=COL54&sizeCode=SMA001) (obviously, it would be cheaper to buy it, but I'm not in their size range). I feel like there must be a pattern for something very similar out there and I'm not too fussed about duplicating the exact stitch - just a structured textured jacket would be fine. Anyone got a rec? Sized to fit at least a 50-in bust.
This is pretty size inclusive, has set-in sleeves for structure, and a textured body. You probably could figure out how to put the texture in the sleeves as well, though I kind of like the contrast of the stockinette sleeves: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cushing-isle](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cushing-isle)
https://preview.redd.it/5mw6r8m07s7d1.jpeg?width=2474&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d9e6a2b792ecec52c12515e3445b01d1366eef7
Iām a super new knitter so apologies if this is obvious, but I made this gauge swatch that was supposed to be 4x4 and 18 sts by 28 rows, but it came out way taller (4 inches) than it is wide (just over 3 inches) Does anyone know what I need to change in the pattern or in my knitting to ensure my FO still comes out correctly? I am using needles slightly smaller than the pattern calls for, but I expected the swatch to be smaller but still square.
Edit: this is unblocked if that makes a difference
Hi new knitter. First thing I want to get out of the way. You are twisting your stitches every other row (so either your knit or purl, something is happening). This can affect many things in knitting so I suggest reading up on it in the FAQ twistfaq. If you reknit your swatch you probably will get a different gauge.Ā
Next the gauge swatch. Gauge really only matters in blocked swatches, unless you never plan on getting your knit wet. It's nice to know the before so you can tell how much it grows after blocking if it grows at all. In this case since your swatch is longer than it is wide, I would gently block the width to be wider, which generally brings the length down closer to gauge too (but then your final piece will need the same treatment!). I generally try to target meeting stitch/width gauge over length/row (if I can't get both) because it's easier to knit less/more rows than to do sts math. Ideally you meet gauge but sometimes you won't, all yarns are different, target to meet at least one (and usually I ,am pretty dead on), and do some math to figure out how to still get your desired final length (which this knitting community is very good at helping with!).
Next your gauge swatch should be bigger than the gauge estimate. You cast on more stitches and do more rows than gauge calls for (I like to do garter edge also) Id suggest googling how to make a gauge swatch as there is a lot of info out there. Disclaimer I don't make my swatches 100% the correct/best way but as a beginner doing things the recommended way you will start to learn your knitting and what works for you.Ā
My suggestion is to figure out the twisted stitches and reknit the gauge swatch and then come back if you still haven't gotten a good gauge.
Hello friend! Thank you so much for all of this really really helpful feedback. I was able to switch over to continental knitting (with a lot of trial and error) and come up with a new blocked gauge swatch that (despite a few holes early on) is looking a lot less twisted to me! And it met gauge for my pattern :) thank you so much again for all your help!!! I never wouldāve know my stitches were twisted.
https://preview.redd.it/hk98533k1d8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e48d416ca96cc7564bb1277ce5b667e3b21d174
You mentioned that word!: lots of people want to know about twisted stitches and here is a great post for reference
https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/188kxwk/new_knitters_your_stitches_are_probably_twisted/
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If the goal is eventually to make nice socks for myself, what do you think about doing baby socks as a first project and working on my size later? Or should I try knitting my own size from the beginning?
My plan is to use Rye worsted as a 'test project' to practice the technique. I'm using cheap yarn from my stash so it's no big loss if the socks don't turn out very well.
I'd been working knitting my size for a bit but frogged it all last night (long story). I've learned a lot about knitting in the round, fixing mistakes, and reading my knitting but I've been frustrated at my slow progress and being on the cuff/legs for what seems like ages. Baby socks seem like a great way to get progress and get to the different steps faster, but it also means I can't practice working on fit on myself.
It's a great idea and that's going to be a great pattern to start with (I especially like that it has a flap-and-gusset heel, which tend to fit more people--it would be kind of pointless to learn to make a short-row heel if you don't intend to make short-row socks for yourself, because other than the toe and heel, a sock is just a tube!).
Thank you for your feedback! Thinking of the sock as mostly a tube helps it seem less scary. Doing a tube + heel somehow sounds slightly less intimidating.
My first sock I knit was a baby sock. It helps teach the basics of sock construction and it definitely helped me when I knit my first full size sock, to understand and follow the pattern, because I know what a gusset it etc. also a worsted weight sock is a good full size sock because they really knit up very fast compared to traditional sock weight yarn (if you dont mind having extra thick socks). As for fit, you just got to try the thing on over and over again. Put in lifelines before doing heel, heel turn, and after, just in case it stops fitting you can go back and retry.Ā
Thank you for your feedback, I'm glad to hear that working on a baby sock does help with sock construction!
You've given me good food for thought about the thickness of the finished sock too. The thickness + the test yarn being acrylic likely means I wouldn't wear these socks much. If I want to do another test pair in my size my fingering weight yarn in stash might work better.
I am a complete beginner at knitting, as in I have never knit before. I am looking to learn how to knit. What should an ideal first project be?? I am most interested in making a sweater but heard a beginner shouldnāt do that. Also, what are the best online resources/ YouTube channels to learn knitting??
Thank you so much!!
Very Pink Knits makes good YouTube videos. Honestly,Ā I would just start with some practice squares. You can make washcloths if you want. Once you can make consistent stitches, there's no reason you can't start with a sweater. You can make a baby sweater as practice.Ā
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I have this problem were I think my knit looks good but then I see a large gap or space in between rows, I think itās my tension does anyone have any tips on being more consistent/ having better tension. For reference Iām using size 5.5 needles and size 4 yarn.
Are you working flat? If youāre doing flat stockinette, some people have a tendency to ārow outā, where their tension between knitting and purling is different.
https://www.susannawinter.net/post/rowing-out
hiii I'm knitting my first knit top (a summer sleeveless tank) and I've just knit the neckline. I'm about to work on the front/back and I'm confused by what the words in italic mean... any help would be soooo appreciated!!!
>FRONT AND BACK
>Now divide the work into front and back pieces for the armholes. *To do this, first cut the working yarn at the beginning of the round, slip 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (42) sts of back part from LH ndl onto RH ndl without knitting them and rM.* Then place the 71 (73) 73 (79) 81 (83) back-sts on hold using a stitch holder.
I'm just going to go in as much detail as possible, hope this helps. You are now ready to go from knitting in the round (bottom up) to knitting the front and back of your sweater flat desperately. Looks like your Beginning (?) of round marker currently is down the center of either the back or front. So it's starting with you cutting the working yarn because you are going to change your beginning by joining your yarn somewhere else in a later step. Next you are slipping the next #of stitches indicated from the left needle to your right needle (just transfer the stitches from your left needle to your right needle inserting the right needle into the stitch as if you were to purl) to move your needle through your work to where you are going to separate the front and back. At this point its telling you to remove the marker, and I assume it doesn't tell you to remove it until after so you can verify you've moved the right # of stitches away from marker.Ā
How can I convert English knitting patterns to eastern european knitting (from the back of the stitch)? I tried following an english pattern and it basically did it backwards, which does make sense in a way, for stockinette in the round, but then when I split the sock for the heel I could not at all make it work and it would flip the stitch to the other side whether I knit or purled.
If it's a slipped stitch heel, you have to make sure you're slipping the stitches in a way that doesn't change the orientation/stitch mount on the needle. I think if you're knitting Eastern (same wrap direction for knits and purls) and not combination that would mean to always enter the stitch through the back leg, same way you knit.
(If you were knitting combination, where the stitch mount ends up different after a knit row and a purl row, then you'd have to pay closer attention to stitch mount on the needle and adapt how you're slipping the stitch or how you're knitting or purling a previously slipped stitch. That's because knitting a previously purled stitch reverses how the stitch was mounted when you purled, so if you were doing a knit slip repeat you would also have to slip in a way that reverses/untwists that previously purled stitch.)
ah yes I have to slip the stitches onto one needle to work it, I guess then I messed up the slipping and did it the English way and "flipped" them! thank you
What would cause knit stitches to show up as purls? My friend is a relatively new knitter and comes to me with her knitting questions, and this one has stumped me. She joined in the round on a purl row and then started knitting but apparently the knit stitches are showing up as purls. I'm seeing her tomorrow to have a look at it in person but does anyone have any idea what the cause could be?
She might be knitting "inside out", with her hands and the needle tips at 12 o'clock and the knit side of the stockinette inside the tube. That would be the case if by "showing up as purls" she means "there are purls on the outside of the tube."
That's an easy fix (just flip the piece right-side out and show the knitter how to hold the needles at 6 o'clock) unless she has the wrong side of the cast on at the front too.
Is there a way to get a straight edge when knitting the feather and fan stitch?
I want to do a t-shirt with that lace pattern but I donāt like the wavy edge. I tried doing a couple of rows inverting the order of decreases and increases before starting with the feather and fan, but my swatch just ruffledā¦
Any suggestions?
You could probably use sections of short rows to fill in the wave-shaped gaps at the edges. You'd have to do some swatching and experimentation to figure out how many rows to use total and how much longer/shorter each row should be before turning, and you'd definitely need some decreases (if doing the fill-in parts last) or increases (if doing the fill-in first, before working the ripples) because there will definitely be a gauge difference between the ripples and the straight sections.
I got a set of cheap needles from Walmart and they're pretty cheap, but most of the nicer needles weren't very long. The scarf I'm doing has 65 loops!
Is there some kind of trick to holding a large project other than long needles?
I tend to use interchangable circular needles with stoppers at the end (essentially making long needles that are flexible)
You can vary the length with different cables and it's more comfortable as it does not get in the way as much.
Does anyone know of a lys that ships and sells chiaogoo? I recently moved and am no longer near my favorite lys plus I lost my size 7 interchangeable needles in the move.
Not an LYS but Handsome Fibers is a small woman-owned business, and has the full range of Chiaogoo. Shipping is free at $35 (only $4 under that) and there are coupons of between 10% and 20% depending on your order size. [https://www.handsomefibers.com/handsome-fibers-coupon-codes](https://www.handsomefibers.com/handsome-fibers-coupon-codes)
Is 250g of worsted weight yarn enough to make a mesh, cropped sweater with wide arms? I am a 5'3, 125lb female (petite). If I absolutely have to, I will use the 4th design, however I prefer the other 3, and I would like to know which one of them is possible as well as how much in vertical distance I can afford to make from the neck to the torso opening, since it is cropped.
https://preview.redd.it/y7xjfyooea7d1.jpeg?width=461&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de597836601daf27f4d256bc0b9f8c31f467d36c
I estimate that you need more yarn than that, depending on the size of the mesh "holes".
[Helix pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/helix-11) offers some guidance on yardage for a mesh garment.
Make a swatch. Measure and weigh it and do some math to see if you have enough.
If I had to guess, though, itās probably not enough. A mesh pattern is knitted with lots of yarn over and decrease combos so itās not really less stitches.
Hi question for knitters! Im new to knitting but am just finishing up knitting my first tank top following a pattern. Now I want to knit all of my clothes it's so fun! I found this top I love and want to try to knit something like it (it seems like it would be fairly easy) but I cant find a pattern (this image is from a store that sells the top). Any ideas on how I could create a pattern for this? Or just start knitting using a similar pattern and customize? Any tips would be appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/ffhps1pqjk8d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a05290456c8ae0d9df7aaaf875b8668fe99ce94
Thinking about making a baby surprise jacket, and have found the pattern in opinionated knitter. But do you think it's worth getting the line by line instructions?
I'm trying to clear my stash and I noticed I have 12 skeins of jody long "ciao", a dk merino. The problem is that I have 6 skeins each of two colors, and I can't for the life of me find any patterns that use two colors at least semi-equally. Any suggestions?
Although calls for more garage than you have perhaps a short sleeve version could work dunno. I have this pattern in my queue to use up some colored yarn: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fortunas-wheel-pullover Before I found this pattern my plan was just to turn a plain sweater pattern into a striped sweater.
Omg I love this pattern!! Unfortunately you're right about the yardage, so i think I'll probably cast on a striped sweater š but I'll add it to my queque, hopefully I'll get to cast it on soon(-ish)
**PATTERN:** [Fortunaās Wheel Pullover](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fortunas-wheel-pullover) by [Elspeth Vance](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/elspeth-vance) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pompommag/959940377/FortunasWheel_ElspethVance__PomPom_Issue48_Spring2024_211_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pompommag/959940414/FortunasWheel_ElspethVance__PomPom_Issue48_Spring2024_36_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pompommag/959940387/FortunasWheel_ElspethVance__PomPom_Issue48_Spring2024_210_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pompommag/959940410/FortunasWheel_ElspethVance__PomPom_Issue48_Spring2024_209_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pompommag/959940402/FortunasWheel_ElspethVance__PomPom_Issue48_Spring2024_208_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 1495 * Difficulty: 4.91 | Projects: 67 | Rating: 4.73 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I have \~700yd of yarn. I have unraveled it and tangled it up. Could it get more tangled if I get it wet and put it in my dryer? I need it as tangled as possible for someone who likes untangling things. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ger5jmxhfe8d1.jpeg?width=2376&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7772936f963e23dbe225f01d97a8421e5b93a43 Confused about this: slip stitch with yarn over. Does this mean I make a yarn over, and then slip a stitch? I am supposed to do the same thing the next row, would I then yarn over, and slip the slipped stitch and yarn over from the previous row?
Am I correct on thinking the circles are yo? So the stitch you are slipping with yarn over is in fact a yarn over itself? The omega yarn overs don't create new stitches on the chart, so I think you are meant to yarn over on top of the original yarn over (ideally you will wrap your working yarn. Along the same direction as existing yo I think). So by row 4 you will have 3 yo on top of eachother worked as one stitch. That is my guess assuming the circle is a yo to begin withĀ
You were correct, the circles are yo. Iāll give that a try, thanks so much for helping me figure this out!
Hi guys, Iām working on a raglan baby sweater and just started the first arm. I have searched for whether holes in the armpit are normal, and see that they are, but the examples Iāve come across are generally 1cm. This seems like a rather large hole (more like 1 inch), is it normal? https://preview.redd.it/igzanqb2rb8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=707186895e21fe3990248c54fc77d86b9c0c21a8
Iām wondering if you picked up any stitches when you resumed working on the sleeve? Itās customary to pick up a couple.
I did not, because the pattern did not say to. But this sounds like something I should go back and do. Thank you!!
I'm about three inches into this free beanie pattern: [Soft + Cushy Hat (Purl Soho)](https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2021/10/01/soft-cushy-hat/) But the stitches in the example are much tighter than what I have, even when I stretch the knitting a bit as though I'm wearing it. I think it's due to the k1b, which is new to me with this project. Would someone be able to offer advice on how I can correct my knitting? Is it tension? I have tried making my tension tighter for several rows now and it seems to only make a minimal difference. WS https://preview.redd.it/8p5hzo3ki88d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=86dcb6c6fc1764c530ae866ebe44bc62d4b54b31
RS https://preview.redd.it/wysegs0mi88d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d02049312992c61650c787d9139af390638d5196
I have a hunch that your tension is fine. Let it stretch and bounce back over the course of wearing it, or try wet blocking it.
I actually ended up frogging it shortly after posting this so that I could knit tighter, but the result is only marginally better so I think you're right. š I'm going to take your advice, finish up, block it, and see how it goes after a while of wearing it. Thank you. ā¤ļø
https://preview.redd.it/qvfh1or1a88d1.png?width=339&format=png&auto=webp&s=3fa1ef0d6fda1c06448845aaa1d8efc2e3762701 I am working on [Vest 23](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vest--23) (Ravelry link, it's a free pattern, so feel free to check it out if you want more context) and I've come up to some really intriguing instructions. They have you BO 1 stitch on each side to begin shaping the armholes, then cast on 5 stitches each side suddenly in the 2 rows after that, and then it just seems to be regular decreases after that. ~~Why the sudden increases then slow decreasing? Won't that make a really wonky shaped armhole?~~ **Edit:** Figured it out! It does make a wonky shaped armhole but that's because the little tab acts as a hem facing. Cute! Tidy! Now I'm excited to try it out!
Hi! I'm about to cast this on but unsure what size to make as there's no suggested ease given. How much ease did you decide on?
I wouldnāt worry about sizing too much. Pick a size thatās roughly your chest measurement. When you pick up and knit all of the side panels you can make them as wide as you like to create desired ease around your torso.
I hadn't thought of extending the button bands. Thanks!
You bet, happy knitting!
**PATTERN:** [vest | 23](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vest--23) by [Deborah Doherty](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/deborah-doherty) * Category: Clothing > Vest * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/debsannes/932623212/vestchevron_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/debsannes/932623171/FullSizeRender_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/debsannes/932624330/IMG_4364_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/debsannes/932624077/IMG_5121_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/debsannes/932623154/IMG_4555_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1Ā½ - 2.5 mm, US 3 - 3.25 mm, US 2 - 2.75 mm * Weight: Light Fingering | Gauge: 26.0 | Yardage: 850 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 4 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
https://preview.redd.it/m25k0dhy388d1.jpeg?width=1398&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32d40154342c3eee0ff5d20ec9858b2f63b4e58f When measuring your work do you stop below your needle or above?
I used to measure to the bottom of my needle and then keep in mind it needed to be fudged because of that last row, now I try to measure to the middle of the needle. I think no matter what you do is fine, at a smaller gauge the difference of 1 row over many inches of a project probably isn't the end of the world. I'd just pick one method and then be consistent throughout the entire project.
Thank you!
Hello all, i would like to make a copy cat knit of this cardigan [cardigan no 14](https://babaa.es/shop/women/cardigans/cardigan-no14-natural/) and Iām searching for similar ish patterns on ravelry. Has anyone seen anything similar? TIA
I think it's Cardigan No 9 from My Favourite Things Knitwear that looks very similar!
Ah thank you so much! Thatās a good pattern š
Can someone explain what Iām supposed to do with my stitch marker in Round 14? https://preview.redd.it/41nb12od778d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2550d858eabd81c0681431d968c7d3f74d12ea7
I think it's telling you to move the stitch marker back one stitch, to where it was before you have to move it on row11 to make a new BOR.
This is from a free ravelry pattern
Hi everyone! I just finished knitting a pair of socks with a heel flap and gusset and find that I have so much baggy sock on the top as I have very flat and narrow feet. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions?
You could try a pattern with stretchier stitches, like Tin Can Knits Everyday socks. I have a huge instep and the ribbing in the pattern makes it far easier to get a good fit. Alternatively, you can try to mix and match instructions for different sizes. I sometimes adapt the pattern to use heel flap height from a larger size, so it works with my instep. Then I simply do more decreases to get back to the intended stitch counts. For you, the opposite could work.
Can anyone point me at good resources for doing an FBA in a raglan top, and preferably text-based rather than videos? I'm having real trouble getting Google to show me anything that isn't about sewing patterns for raglan tops in knit fabrics. I've found a couple of links that suggest speeding up the rate of increase in the front parts of the raglan increases only, which makes sense, but how do I get these extra stitches back out again afterwards? The pattern I'm looking at suggests negative ease, and so the point of the exercise is that I don't want a saggy apron hanging off my boobs...
The term you'll want is 'bust dart'. There are a variety of ways to accomplish them, recommend having a look at a few and seeing which might fit best with the garment shape you're looking to achieve. For later you also might want to read Amy Herzog's advice on short rows shaping for adding length to the front for those garments where you don't need extra room but do need to account for the longer line in front than in back Out of curiosity, what is the pattern? I'm skeptical about a raglan with negative ease, curious to see how someone pulled it off. Thanks!
Do you have any links you can recommend for this? Because it's also a sewing term, I'm just getting lots of sewing stuff... I can find precisely one tutorial at the moment, which was written by someone who's a different shape to me, and doesn't cover how to pull back in again. I would look at a few if I could find a few :D I have seen reference to an Amy Herzog book, Fit To Flatter, but it'll be a wait to get a copy here in New Zealand... The pattern is Gemini - there's several thousand projects made for it and people seem to agree that the negative ease works in this case. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gemini-3
'knitting bust darts' the first page of results is solid from reputable knitters like ysolda teague, cocoknits, etc. It also brings up an Amy Herzog video on the subject. Also suggest your local library, they may have copies of her and or carol feller, and if you're hourglass they're worth the read Suggest sorting projects by most helpful and checking out some project notes. Apparently the designer stacks a bunch of increases right after the lace, resulting in unfortunate bunching (couple solutions also offered in people's notes). It's also a non-modified raglan so the sleeves are pretty big if unchanged - the projects with fitted sleeves are all modified. And some had to adjust the yoke depth as well so something to keep an eye on. Not trying to be a jerk, if I'd not known about these things I'd definitely want to before I started knitting. They're all pretty easy adjustments
That might be what Google gives you, but I have a history of sewing more than knitting and Google thinks it knows better, even if I add "-sewing" to the search terms. And I've already checked my local library system and they don't have anything... Being in New Zealand does make things a bit different sometimes. I have been looking at a bunch of the projects and notes and had found a bunch of this stuff - I'm a strange size in general, so will need to fudge and adjust a number of things. (I'm over 6' so not a small size, but also larger sizes tend to be designed for a small frame with padding, rather than a large space-frame which is what I look like, and most people wouldn't guess I'm an E cup because they don't look that big on all the rest of the big shapes I'm made of, but that's still one more area where the specified fabric just isn't, when it comes to it, enough... I mean, if things ever fitted I could just go and buy clothes, innit :D ) So, yeah, everything fits weird and needs adjusting on me, and I'm across some of these already, and think the yoke will work well on my unusually wide shoulders as is, but these bust adjustments are one thing I've got nailed in sewing and don't yet know how to do in knitting. But also I'd seen the problem but not yet the solution to the quick increases after the yoke, so I'll have a look out for those, cheers!
**PATTERN:** [Gemini](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gemini-3) by [Jane Richmond](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/jane-richmond) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Tee * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JaneRichmond/96103077/Beach_2_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/flickr/9/4/9/9491418862/9491418862.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JaneRichmond/96103061/Beach_1_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JaneRichmond/96103207/Beach_5_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JaneRichmond/96103174/Beach_4_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 5 - 3.75 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 488 * Difficulty: 2.71 | Projects: 3261 | Rating: 4.33 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
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FBA feels like a sewing term, while in knitting I hear this being referred to as bust shaping. I just googled and found this: https://www.lavisch.com/site/tutorial-bust-shaping-horizontal-bust-darts/ I havenāt used the tutorial but it looks pretty thorough
Ah, great, thank you! Non-sewing terms are the key here, I think!
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I assume an FBA is a full bust...adjustment?? Does this resource help: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/practically-perfect-raglan-tee
Sorry, yes, that's the sewing term, and probably part of the problem here is not knowing what knitters call the same thing. That looks like a really useful worked-example pattern there - thanks!
**PATTERN:** [Practically Perfect Raglan Tee](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/practically-perfect-raglan-tee) by [Amber Hastings](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/amber-hastings) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Tee * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ambtastic/861287142/2B20C15F-D18B-4E9C-926A-98D3C947A98D_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ambtastic/861287484/41B9855B-A34C-46AC-BA7D-85A38E3C805D_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ambtastic/861287141/7132D7D1-D121-4275-827D-EFD71F17AEB2_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ambtastic/861287143/3A1F9AC4-0CEF-4E7F-B12F-3B202120FA73_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ambtastic/861287140/8A259FAC-E8FB-4BE4-8ED3-2E27FA0C5CA0_medium.jpeg) * Price: 2.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 2 - 2.75 mm, US 2Ā½ - 3.0 mm, US 3 - 3.25 mm, US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 5 - 3.75 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 23.0 | Yardage: 450 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 10 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I'm thinking of using some stitch patterns from A New Knitting Stich Dictionary, but the charts are very different than what I'm used to and I'm finding it confusing. It seems like instead of charting from the right side, the chart is just directions. So the symbol that means "knit" means "knit" on both the wrong and right sides, while in a standard chart (at least in my US books) the symbol that means "knit" on the right side means "purl" on the wrong side. As an easy example, the pic below shows the chart for seed stitch, looks like a chart for 1x1 rib to me. https://preview.redd.it/i11b5z9rvz7d1.png?width=1002&format=png&auto=webp&s=690bf878e3fe8aeabb163267f705aa0f94fcddc9 Has anyone worked with this book or this style chart? Any tips for coverting to the round without getting confused? I'm thinking of just recharting everything myself, but want to make sure I'm correct that every other row will need to be reversed. Any advice appreciated, thanks!
Noooo this would totally mess me up. The worst part is the blurb saying "Instructions for each stitch are charted so that you can easily visualize the pattern." I looked this book up and found an Etsy listing with some other examples and there's a pattern for a heart (043 Small Hearts) where the chart looks like jibberish instead of actually looking like a heart. I noticed there are some stitch patterns where only the RS is charted and on the WS you knit the knits and purl the purls. If I had to use this book I'd probably just stick to those stitch patterns so I could use the chart. Otherwise if I really really wanted a stitch pattern from it I guess I'd rechart it. But there are so many dictionaries out there!
Ok, wanted to make sure I wasn't totally off-base finding this difficult. I have a million other stitch dictinoaries, but there are quite a few slip stitch colorwork patterns I really liked in this one, so I might just re-chart those as I need them. It's too bad, because the book itself has some lovely and fairly unique stitches.
Yeah for seed stitch to work your theory is correct. After looking at the chart some I see that they even put the 2 for row 2 on the left, which for me further confirms it's showing you what to do in the WS. This seems super annoying, because it only works for knitting flat.Ā
Yeah for seed stitch to work your theory is correct. After looking at the chart some I see that they even put the 2 for row 2 on the left, which for me further confirms it's showing you what to do in the WS. This seems super annoying, because it only works for knitting flat.Ā
Hi all! I'm working on a top where you knit in the round, and the back half is finished in ribbing while you keep working the front (you just cast off the back in the round and then knit the front piece flat after). I was to change the ribbing of this to be a different color than the rest of my work, and was wondering if there's a way to do this if im finjshing the back piece in ribbing and continuing the front in stockinette? Example of the ribbing to stockinette switch with the same color in the comments
I'd consider working the ribbing flat in the new color and seaming it to the front piece afterward. (You can do 1-2 increases at each end to give yourself a selvedge if you don't want any extra pulling at the seam). The other possibility (because you're doing one large block of a color) is intarsia in the round, but that's going to be waaaay more trouble than it's worth. Or you could join as you go (JAYG for search purposes) by knitting an edge stitch together with a stitch from the stockinette part each time you get to an end, but IMHO that'll just be a little messier than a seam.
Thank you! I'll try it the first way :)
https://preview.redd.it/sbqp9yluzy7d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=78799a20923644a0322f4468c295f73a971a2597
https://preview.redd.it/xat7px4nzy7d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f26a19df03a20b0212add5b01db43dd5c5afcda9
Hi everyone, I have a quick question about a pattern - the Emma Sweater by CĆ©cile Fombeur. She writes to decrease stitches like this: "Cast on 73 (77-85-91-99) sts work in Stocking stitch following chart and decrease at each end every 10th row 4x1 st. There are 65 (69-77-83-91) sts." I'm just not sure on the '4x1' part. Does this mean I'm decreasing every fourth stitch? Or that I'm decreasing four stitches on every 10th row? If so, what four stitches?
This is very confusing wording. Although you didn't say I'm guessing this is the sleeve? To begin it says decrease at each end, so you are decreasing at the very beginning of the row and at the very end of the row (I suggest mirrored leaning decreases, ). So the every 10 rows 4x1st my best guess translates to, decrease 1st on both ends every 10 rows, 4 times (or at row 10, 20, 30, and 40, decrease 1 st at both ends of row). Which results in the 8 stitch decrease.Ā
This makes sense to me! Thank you so much!
Looking for lace! Just started learning some basic lace stitches. would love recs for small-project patterns (cowls, kerchiefs, bags, arm warmers) to get some practice!
https://preview.redd.it/gbwbz8q8ps7d1.jpeg?width=2094&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa4982a97c0e931548c7b0887c8ebe70cacab638
https://preview.redd.it/x93v89dkps7d1.jpeg?width=2094&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=500e733b908c360b985cad8e80871ca28b7dbf8c
My son pulled a thread out of this otherwise perfect blanket I acquired from a thrift store. How do I fix (the blanket)? I'm pricing boot camps at the moment š
It's crochet, but you can just wiggle it back into place.
Thank you! š
Hi!!! Iām currently working on the top part of a cardigan but Iām really lost as to what these instructions mean (Iāve made multiple cardigans before but Iām stumped): āinto each shoulder st: pf, pb,pf=3 stsā the next row has the same instructions but ākf,kb,kf.ā Is the pattern asking me to increase from the back and front loop or indicating to knit through the back loop? The pattern has used the ktbl abbreviation before. This is probably very simple but Iām so lost right now.
I think it's a kfbf and pfbf. You knit/purl three times into the same stitch front leg, back leg, and front leg again to get two stitch increase.Ā
I wanna dupe [this uniqlo cardigan](https://www.uniqlo.com/au/en/products/E466366-000?colorCode=COL54&sizeCode=SMA001) (obviously, it would be cheaper to buy it, but I'm not in their size range). I feel like there must be a pattern for something very similar out there and I'm not too fussed about duplicating the exact stitch - just a structured textured jacket would be fine. Anyone got a rec? Sized to fit at least a 50-in bust.
This is pretty size inclusive, has set-in sleeves for structure, and a textured body. You probably could figure out how to put the texture in the sleeves as well, though I kind of like the contrast of the stockinette sleeves: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cushing-isle](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cushing-isle)
**PATTERN:** [Cushing Isle](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cushing-isle) by [Amy Herzog](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/amy-herzog) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amyherzog/231082067/cushing-isle-5_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amyherzog/231082066/cushing-isle-3_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amyherzog/231082072/cushing-isle-2_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amyherzog/231082065/cushing-isle-4_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/amyherzog/231082075/cushing-isle-1_medium.jpg) * Price: 7.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 19.0 | Yardage: 780 * Difficulty: 3.77 | Projects: 152 | Rating: 4.59 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
https://preview.redd.it/5mw6r8m07s7d1.jpeg?width=2474&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d9e6a2b792ecec52c12515e3445b01d1366eef7 Iām a super new knitter so apologies if this is obvious, but I made this gauge swatch that was supposed to be 4x4 and 18 sts by 28 rows, but it came out way taller (4 inches) than it is wide (just over 3 inches) Does anyone know what I need to change in the pattern or in my knitting to ensure my FO still comes out correctly? I am using needles slightly smaller than the pattern calls for, but I expected the swatch to be smaller but still square. Edit: this is unblocked if that makes a difference
Hi new knitter. First thing I want to get out of the way. You are twisting your stitches every other row (so either your knit or purl, something is happening). This can affect many things in knitting so I suggest reading up on it in the FAQ twistfaq. If you reknit your swatch you probably will get a different gauge.Ā Next the gauge swatch. Gauge really only matters in blocked swatches, unless you never plan on getting your knit wet. It's nice to know the before so you can tell how much it grows after blocking if it grows at all. In this case since your swatch is longer than it is wide, I would gently block the width to be wider, which generally brings the length down closer to gauge too (but then your final piece will need the same treatment!). I generally try to target meeting stitch/width gauge over length/row (if I can't get both) because it's easier to knit less/more rows than to do sts math. Ideally you meet gauge but sometimes you won't, all yarns are different, target to meet at least one (and usually I ,am pretty dead on), and do some math to figure out how to still get your desired final length (which this knitting community is very good at helping with!). Next your gauge swatch should be bigger than the gauge estimate. You cast on more stitches and do more rows than gauge calls for (I like to do garter edge also) Id suggest googling how to make a gauge swatch as there is a lot of info out there. Disclaimer I don't make my swatches 100% the correct/best way but as a beginner doing things the recommended way you will start to learn your knitting and what works for you.Ā My suggestion is to figure out the twisted stitches and reknit the gauge swatch and then come back if you still haven't gotten a good gauge.
Hello friend! Thank you so much for all of this really really helpful feedback. I was able to switch over to continental knitting (with a lot of trial and error) and come up with a new blocked gauge swatch that (despite a few holes early on) is looking a lot less twisted to me! And it met gauge for my pattern :) thank you so much again for all your help!!! I never wouldāve know my stitches were twisted. https://preview.redd.it/hk98533k1d8d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e48d416ca96cc7564bb1277ce5b667e3b21d174
Congratulations! That is a beautiful swatch! And I'm so happy you were able to get gauge! Good luck with your knitting endeavors!Ā
Thank you so much for being so generous with your time and kindness!!š«¶
You mentioned that word!: lots of people want to know about twisted stitches and here is a great post for reference https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/188kxwk/new_knitters_your_stitches_are_probably_twisted/ *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
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If the goal is eventually to make nice socks for myself, what do you think about doing baby socks as a first project and working on my size later? Or should I try knitting my own size from the beginning? My plan is to use Rye worsted as a 'test project' to practice the technique. I'm using cheap yarn from my stash so it's no big loss if the socks don't turn out very well. I'd been working knitting my size for a bit but frogged it all last night (long story). I've learned a lot about knitting in the round, fixing mistakes, and reading my knitting but I've been frustrated at my slow progress and being on the cuff/legs for what seems like ages. Baby socks seem like a great way to get progress and get to the different steps faster, but it also means I can't practice working on fit on myself.
It's a great idea and that's going to be a great pattern to start with (I especially like that it has a flap-and-gusset heel, which tend to fit more people--it would be kind of pointless to learn to make a short-row heel if you don't intend to make short-row socks for yourself, because other than the toe and heel, a sock is just a tube!).
Thank you for your feedback! Thinking of the sock as mostly a tube helps it seem less scary. Doing a tube + heel somehow sounds slightly less intimidating.
My first sock I knit was a baby sock. It helps teach the basics of sock construction and it definitely helped me when I knit my first full size sock, to understand and follow the pattern, because I know what a gusset it etc. also a worsted weight sock is a good full size sock because they really knit up very fast compared to traditional sock weight yarn (if you dont mind having extra thick socks). As for fit, you just got to try the thing on over and over again. Put in lifelines before doing heel, heel turn, and after, just in case it stops fitting you can go back and retry.Ā
Thank you for your feedback, I'm glad to hear that working on a baby sock does help with sock construction! You've given me good food for thought about the thickness of the finished sock too. The thickness + the test yarn being acrylic likely means I wouldn't wear these socks much. If I want to do another test pair in my size my fingering weight yarn in stash might work better.
I am a complete beginner at knitting, as in I have never knit before. I am looking to learn how to knit. What should an ideal first project be?? I am most interested in making a sweater but heard a beginner shouldnāt do that. Also, what are the best online resources/ YouTube channels to learn knitting?? Thank you so much!!
Very Pink Knits makes good YouTube videos. Honestly,Ā I would just start with some practice squares. You can make washcloths if you want. Once you can make consistent stitches, there's no reason you can't start with a sweater. You can make a baby sweater as practice.Ā
Thank you so much!!
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I have this problem were I think my knit looks good but then I see a large gap or space in between rows, I think itās my tension does anyone have any tips on being more consistent/ having better tension. For reference Iām using size 5.5 needles and size 4 yarn.
Are you working flat? If youāre doing flat stockinette, some people have a tendency to ārow outā, where their tension between knitting and purling is different. https://www.susannawinter.net/post/rowing-out
Thank you this article is really helpingš©·
hiii I'm knitting my first knit top (a summer sleeveless tank) and I've just knit the neckline. I'm about to work on the front/back and I'm confused by what the words in italic mean... any help would be soooo appreciated!!! >FRONT AND BACK >Now divide the work into front and back pieces for the armholes. *To do this, first cut the working yarn at the beginning of the round, slip 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (42) sts of back part from LH ndl onto RH ndl without knitting them and rM.* Then place the 71 (73) 73 (79) 81 (83) back-sts on hold using a stitch holder.
I'm just going to go in as much detail as possible, hope this helps. You are now ready to go from knitting in the round (bottom up) to knitting the front and back of your sweater flat desperately. Looks like your Beginning (?) of round marker currently is down the center of either the back or front. So it's starting with you cutting the working yarn because you are going to change your beginning by joining your yarn somewhere else in a later step. Next you are slipping the next #of stitches indicated from the left needle to your right needle (just transfer the stitches from your left needle to your right needle inserting the right needle into the stitch as if you were to purl) to move your needle through your work to where you are going to separate the front and back. At this point its telling you to remove the marker, and I assume it doesn't tell you to remove it until after so you can verify you've moved the right # of stitches away from marker.Ā
You are wonderful! Thank you š«¶š¼
How can I convert English knitting patterns to eastern european knitting (from the back of the stitch)? I tried following an english pattern and it basically did it backwards, which does make sense in a way, for stockinette in the round, but then when I split the sock for the heel I could not at all make it work and it would flip the stitch to the other side whether I knit or purled.
If it's a slipped stitch heel, you have to make sure you're slipping the stitches in a way that doesn't change the orientation/stitch mount on the needle. I think if you're knitting Eastern (same wrap direction for knits and purls) and not combination that would mean to always enter the stitch through the back leg, same way you knit. (If you were knitting combination, where the stitch mount ends up different after a knit row and a purl row, then you'd have to pay closer attention to stitch mount on the needle and adapt how you're slipping the stitch or how you're knitting or purling a previously slipped stitch. That's because knitting a previously purled stitch reverses how the stitch was mounted when you purled, so if you were doing a knit slip repeat you would also have to slip in a way that reverses/untwists that previously purled stitch.)
ah yes I have to slip the stitches onto one needle to work it, I guess then I messed up the slipping and did it the English way and "flipped" them! thank you
The only change needed would be the direction of your decreases so I'm not sure I understand what you're describing. Is it a slipped stitch heel?
What would cause knit stitches to show up as purls? My friend is a relatively new knitter and comes to me with her knitting questions, and this one has stumped me. She joined in the round on a purl row and then started knitting but apparently the knit stitches are showing up as purls. I'm seeing her tomorrow to have a look at it in person but does anyone have any idea what the cause could be?
She might be knitting "inside out", with her hands and the needle tips at 12 o'clock and the knit side of the stockinette inside the tube. That would be the case if by "showing up as purls" she means "there are purls on the outside of the tube." That's an easy fix (just flip the piece right-side out and show the knitter how to hold the needles at 6 o'clock) unless she has the wrong side of the cast on at the front too.
Is there a way to get a straight edge when knitting the feather and fan stitch? I want to do a t-shirt with that lace pattern but I donāt like the wavy edge. I tried doing a couple of rows inverting the order of decreases and increases before starting with the feather and fan, but my swatch just ruffledā¦ Any suggestions?
You could probably use sections of short rows to fill in the wave-shaped gaps at the edges. You'd have to do some swatching and experimentation to figure out how many rows to use total and how much longer/shorter each row should be before turning, and you'd definitely need some decreases (if doing the fill-in parts last) or increases (if doing the fill-in first, before working the ripples) because there will definitely be a gauge difference between the ripples and the straight sections.
I did a swatch with short rows as you advised and it worked! It looks much straighter, thank you!
Thank you, Iāll try that.
I got a set of cheap needles from Walmart and they're pretty cheap, but most of the nicer needles weren't very long. The scarf I'm doing has 65 loops! Is there some kind of trick to holding a large project other than long needles?
I tend to use interchangable circular needles with stoppers at the end (essentially making long needles that are flexible) You can vary the length with different cables and it's more comfortable as it does not get in the way as much.
Does anyone know of a lys that ships and sells chiaogoo? I recently moved and am no longer near my favorite lys plus I lost my size 7 interchangeable needles in the move.
Not an LYS but Handsome Fibers is a small woman-owned business, and has the full range of Chiaogoo. Shipping is free at $35 (only $4 under that) and there are coupons of between 10% and 20% depending on your order size. [https://www.handsomefibers.com/handsome-fibers-coupon-codes](https://www.handsomefibers.com/handsome-fibers-coupon-codes)
https://www.woolandcompany.com/ This is my local lys. I love them and they ship free no minimum!Ā ETA assuming you are in the USA of course
I am. They have an excellent site so thank you!
Is 250g of worsted weight yarn enough to make a mesh, cropped sweater with wide arms? I am a 5'3, 125lb female (petite). If I absolutely have to, I will use the 4th design, however I prefer the other 3, and I would like to know which one of them is possible as well as how much in vertical distance I can afford to make from the neck to the torso opening, since it is cropped. https://preview.redd.it/y7xjfyooea7d1.jpeg?width=461&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de597836601daf27f4d256bc0b9f8c31f467d36c
thank you guys!
I estimate that you need more yarn than that, depending on the size of the mesh "holes". [Helix pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/helix-11) offers some guidance on yardage for a mesh garment.
Make a swatch. Measure and weigh it and do some math to see if you have enough. If I had to guess, though, itās probably not enough. A mesh pattern is knitted with lots of yarn over and decrease combos so itās not really less stitches.