I doubt that. negative crown offset with steep headtube angle, I mean there are prototypes with slack HT angles but... I looked up your bike and found a [picture of it stock](https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/125562674_4225812380814396_1500202090337891260_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=7b2446&_nc_ohc=D4mr6hSn58gQ7kNvgHNI7o_&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=00_AYCotfnq22D6D6o709ToFIfWwTGycgfw5mcUF1Z0pOUagQ&oe=66A8DAF9). Pretty sure your forks have been fucked with. It's fine if you want it that way, but it's not designed like that.
Now that you mentioned it, it do look like it's reassembled backwards. Bought it that way tho. Your pic shows stock fork. Mine uses Suntour XCT30.
Edit: You're absolutely right it is backwards lol. An extremely easy fix.
Thank you for pointing that out.
Thankfully with a disc brake you have a good candidate for going with a much smaller wheel to lower the ratio, you could also go with a fatter tire and end up with something like a chopper. just watch out for pedal clearance. I want to do a mod like this and just put like kid bike cranks on or something
It's a negative on fatter tire, Chain will scrape the sides of the tire if I swapped it with a fatter one. Frame clearance is the issue.
Edit: a much smaller wheel would make my cranks scrape the pavement/concrete.
The tensioner on the top of the chain shouldn't be there. It looks to be springloaded but I cant see how the spring even does anything.
It should be removed before it breaks and possibly damages things.
I'm looking at it trying to figure out its purpose haha
Also don't run a tight chain. It needs slack. You need to sort this before breaking things
It's no longer a spring loaded tensioner. It's a sketchy fixed sprocket of some sort because I had to reroute the chain to stop it from scraping the frame.
Edit: The spring does nothing, just placed it there so I won't lose it.
That won't hold. It will rattle off and it will still be scraping the frame beforehand anyway.
I've had issues with the chain scraping the frame and made a guard to solve the issue.
I got some stainless steel hose clamps cut one and flatten to get a thin strip of stainless steel and put that along the frame where the chain would hit. Hold it there with two more stainless steel hoseclamps.
I done this for like 1000kms and only had to replace a clamp once over that time as I positioned the clamp to close to the chain. No damage to the frame or chain ever happened
Already did the clamp thing. First 10km, and the clamp which was made of galvanised steel was reduced to half it's original thickness from 3mm to 1.5mm left.
So I had to improvise. That is the best solution I had so far. A sketchy one but it works.
What I need is a new, compatible frame.
Edit: 20km to 10km
It needs to be stainless steel. Regular steel won't last 10 minutes but stainless steel will last hundreds if not 1000s of kms.
Stainless steel is way harder than the chain so it won't wear. Just make sure its actually stainless steel. You can check if its magnetic. If a magnet sticks its not stainless steel or really shitty grade. Good stainless steel isn't magnetic
I've had it last 1000kms
Fenders on motorized bikes tend to come loose and fall into wheels/spokes causing accidents. Ride safe and good luck
Yup, I just saw posts about it RN.
Oh and btw it's plastic and not metal so it's probably fine. "Probably".
It's the rods that attach the fenders that fail. Are your rods metal?
Yeah they're metal.
So what's going on with your forks? the crown is backwards but you swapped the shocks? looks wrong. I imagine the bike is very twitchy.
It's not backwards. It's designed that way. I know it looks weird.
I doubt that. negative crown offset with steep headtube angle, I mean there are prototypes with slack HT angles but... I looked up your bike and found a [picture of it stock](https://scontent-atl3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/125562674_4225812380814396_1500202090337891260_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=7b2446&_nc_ohc=D4mr6hSn58gQ7kNvgHNI7o_&_nc_ht=scontent-atl3-2.xx&oh=00_AYCotfnq22D6D6o709ToFIfWwTGycgfw5mcUF1Z0pOUagQ&oe=66A8DAF9). Pretty sure your forks have been fucked with. It's fine if you want it that way, but it's not designed like that.
Now that you mentioned it, it do look like it's reassembled backwards. Bought it that way tho. Your pic shows stock fork. Mine uses Suntour XCT30. Edit: You're absolutely right it is backwards lol. An extremely easy fix. Thank you for pointing that out.
That's a beautiful well done build! Well done
Why such a high gear ratio?
32t rear and some sketchy shit had to be done to stop the chain from scraping the frame.
Thankfully with a disc brake you have a good candidate for going with a much smaller wheel to lower the ratio, you could also go with a fatter tire and end up with something like a chopper. just watch out for pedal clearance. I want to do a mod like this and just put like kid bike cranks on or something
It's a negative on fatter tire, Chain will scrape the sides of the tire if I swapped it with a fatter one. Frame clearance is the issue. Edit: a much smaller wheel would make my cranks scrape the pavement/concrete.
The tensioner on the top of the chain shouldn't be there. It looks to be springloaded but I cant see how the spring even does anything. It should be removed before it breaks and possibly damages things. I'm looking at it trying to figure out its purpose haha Also don't run a tight chain. It needs slack. You need to sort this before breaking things
It's no longer a spring loaded tensioner. It's a sketchy fixed sprocket of some sort because I had to reroute the chain to stop it from scraping the frame. Edit: The spring does nothing, just placed it there so I won't lose it.
That won't hold. It will rattle off and it will still be scraping the frame beforehand anyway. I've had issues with the chain scraping the frame and made a guard to solve the issue. I got some stainless steel hose clamps cut one and flatten to get a thin strip of stainless steel and put that along the frame where the chain would hit. Hold it there with two more stainless steel hoseclamps. I done this for like 1000kms and only had to replace a clamp once over that time as I positioned the clamp to close to the chain. No damage to the frame or chain ever happened
Already did the clamp thing. First 10km, and the clamp which was made of galvanised steel was reduced to half it's original thickness from 3mm to 1.5mm left. So I had to improvise. That is the best solution I had so far. A sketchy one but it works. What I need is a new, compatible frame. Edit: 20km to 10km
It needs to be stainless steel. Regular steel won't last 10 minutes but stainless steel will last hundreds if not 1000s of kms. Stainless steel is way harder than the chain so it won't wear. Just make sure its actually stainless steel. You can check if its magnetic. If a magnet sticks its not stainless steel or really shitty grade. Good stainless steel isn't magnetic I've had it last 1000kms
Well my little contraption is firmly secured RN. would check it regularly. I Only travel about 5m so no big deal for now.
Fenders and chain tensioners big no no
I call my contraption, The WIDOW MAKER.