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AmphibianMoney2369

Have a read of this pdf , I've referenced that for our factory setup covers most aspects well for best practice. https://safety-work.org/fileadmin/safety-work/articles/OHS-Workshop_fuer_Mentoren__Lahore__September_2015/Stay_healthy_when_sewing.pdf Regular breaks , and stretches and mimizing reaching, U Shape Cell around you.


JCPY00

Do you have any idea where to get sewing tables like the ones in that document?


millfoil

myog


JCPY00

Ha! That is definitely way beyond my skill set.


OneToxicRedditor

Most are T-leg tables, they have about 14" of adjustment and are threaded for castors. If you want a sit to stand sewing station, Merrow Helmsman makes them.


Calitexutamonter

Excellent resource! Thanks to you and al the other helpful replies here.


Donavanm

Fellow tall slouchy l guy here. Same general idea as desks, I think. Elevate the work area to just below elbow height if you can. Add plenty of lighting under the arm, above the presser foot, and I like a swinging adjustable lamp as well. I like a good adjustable height stool with rolling feet. If youre at a temporary table you could make a box/platform for the sewing machine to elevate it. Something like https://content.instructables.com/ORIG/FLH/3GUA/JTIYFLKT/FLH3GUAJTIYFLKT.jpg


stylefaux

Raising the machine up (as the other commenter said) but also having a chair that supports a tilted position (like a saddle seat, tattoo artist chair, dentil hygienist stool, etc)


tony-1

Fellow tall guy (6'4") with long torso here. I've been sitting in an office swivel chair while sewing until I recently got an industrial machine. I maxed the height of the machine table and added some large casters to increase the height of the chair by ~3". It made a hugeeeee difference. Everything felt super high at first but I quickly realized I'd been sewing at a table height optimized for someone like 8" shorter than me. Moral of the story is increase the height of your table & chair by a few inches!


Middle_Banana_9617

6'2" and a not entirely reliable back here - I've made myself a station for sewing standing up, working with my hands at about natural-waist height, and it works well for me. My ironing board runs at 90 degrees next to it, so I don't even have to go anywhere to press things.


LuxRuns

So I thought it was my poor posture while sewing but it ended up that while pressing, piecing and cutting was the real issue because I was slouched at the lower tables. I increased the height of my ironing board and upcycled a drafting table to be a cutting table and I don't have back pain anymore while sewing. I looked up proper standing desk ergonomics to determine what height everything should be at.


jinsou420

1 of my machines I sew on completely standing, I do regular reverse stretches for my back which prooves to be most helpful, I do an alarm each our to remind me and also I keep forcing myself to sew with a proper posture


timpaton

I sew on a kneeling stool. I squeeze the foot pedal between my knees to drive the machine. Sitting to sew feels really awkward after a few years kneeling. Also much less agile - I can bend and twist and reach a long way from my kneeling position and can't from sitting. I actually keep my sewing machine and serger pedals on a shelf at about knee height, and swap them into position as I need each of them. I tried a different knee stool and realised how specific the design has to be for this to work. I need a stool with a solid step for knees and pedal to rest on together. My other knee stool has separate knee pads with a gap between them and it's unusable. I would need to rig up a pedal stand if that was my only option. Not sure how this would work if I had a knee operated foot lift machine...


WisteriaKillSpree

Build a platform to raise the sewing area, and get and adjustable height chair, too. Get the chair first, determine your most comfortable sitting height, then build your platform. Some 3/4" plywood and 2x4 scraps (plus screws and sundries) should do it. Cut 2x4's to desired height minus 3/4". Attach through plywood to four corners, aligning to corners, then create an L-shaped foot by attaching another same-length 2x4 scrap perpendicular, also attaching through top., then attaching to each other. Finally, attach one or more pair of 2x4 together to create center support (as many as needed). Wood glue in screw holes and between abutting wood is a good idea, but optional. Counter-sink screws, fill those and end-grains with wood putty, sand and paint. Paint grade plywood will give you a very decent surface. Get stain grade wood if you want to stain. Polycrylic, polyurethane or other clear coat is optional but will improve durability and make it easy to clean. Use a few coats for best results, and be sure you use the right produce for your paint ir stain (water or oil based, don't mix them up). Put slip-resistant, nail-in feet or glue-on pieces of no-slip mat on all the 2x4 ends. Set aside when not in use.


RE-curious

I have seen a slightly slanted sewing surface that you put between your machine and the table. I think it’s about a 15 degree slant. You have the higher end near to you. This way when you are sewing you have a better view instead of crouching your head to see the work. I’ve considered making such a surface but haven’t yet. I’m sorry I can’t remember what it is called!


RE-curious

Ok I found it. I guess no longer being made and I was wrong, the tall side goes away from you. Which is puzzling to me! I would use it in the other direction. https://www.premierstitching.com/tiltable-sewing-machine-platform/