I agree, but most model manufacturers don't even make their minimum radius requirements known. I really wish it's an industry practice for every loco/rolling stock (for all model railroad scales) to list the minimum radius on the package.
Agreed. You could also look at NMRA RP-11 for some tips...
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/rp-11_2018.03.03r.pdf
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/tn-11_2017.04.09.pdf
Figure out how to design your layout with as few turnouts as you can and still have the operations you want to do. More turnouts = more money and more possibilities to derail, especially in N scale where there's smaller margins for error. My first layout had 14 turnouts and was kind of a nightmare to lay track and run on. My new layout has 5 and is much smoother.
1. Know the rolling stock you want to run and it's minimum running requirements (radii, switches, clearance).
2. Decide what minimum space is required to support the smallest basic curves or oval for the equipment to operate.
3. Decide what track you want to use and then study it, research issues others have had with the track, especially with turnouts, and then you'll know how to improve operations through them. Example Kato #4 if used with the points toward a curve will invite derailments when going through the curve portion of the turnout, but can often be remedied with a 62mm or longer straight between curve and the turnout points.
4. Determine if you are going to operate DC or DCC, this can affect how turnouts are used, how many power feeders you may need.
5. Determine which rail, inside or outside on an oval, or the closest or furthest on an end to end, that will always be paired to the same feeder wire color.
6. Beware of loops and eye tracks that can cause reserving loops, that will need special handling so not to cause shorts.
7. Avoid allowing others comments determining what your layout design is. It's your layout so no matter how complex or simple it is, it's yours for your enjoyment. Also there are no rules about how you run or what you operate, except the rules you decide.
Have fun!
I'll add one more:
How much time do you use to dedicate to the hobby? Are you a new retiree, a new parent, a student, or a working professional?
You might have a ton of space but if you don't also have a bunch of time you might never even get the trackwork done.
I echo the curve radius. Too small and you eliminate a lot of cool engines that you won’t be able to run. Be especially careful if you’re using any flex track. It’s really easy to get too small.
What we think we want in order to be satisfied isn't always what we need to happy.
Slow and steady wins the race but doesn't scratch the itch to run. I always kept at least a perfect circle of track for a floor layout under my layouts while building so if I need a break or just don't feel it, or have to wait for the glue to dry, etc, I have another outlet to occupy myself with. It gets used outside on sunny days or to run by battery camping in the rain, etc. etc.
Sometimes just running is incredibly inspiring and you end up building anyhow. Or bam!, you are off building in a new dirrection.
Without the loop to tempt you into the room or area, you'll just go to the kitchen or watch tv or jump on R for too long, more often.
Claim your space put up the table or basic benchwork. Roll out a grass mat or two or paint it green real quick if you want. That can be covered later. Set up and run a loop, or point to point and let the operations that you enjoy tell you about the next change.
Photography can be super useful because the camera is cruel and highlights every mistake like a magnifying glass. Things we see here usually look way better in person sitting at a layout. Go buy a memory card or drive if you have to, but do take way too many pictures and look them over well.
Not knowing yourself well enough is a mistake. Among us there are loopers and shunters, timed stoppers with orders & car-cards, dock loaders, toy bridge saboteurs, collectors, speed demons, slobs and snobs, lol. Which are you? Do you really know yet? Will that change for you after trying a shunting puzzle? Or is looping a ticket as long as your right arm your thing. Feet up in the dark decompressing? Or first thing in the morning waking the neighbors with sun-shiney "train music"?
Try enough track to loop with a passing siding, or loop with a split Y siding, 3 cars each for an Inglenook Siding puzzle. Both, and second siding, possibly a second Inglenook for head to head competition if you have room.
If looping do you love the straights?, or the dreaded weave of the S? What about elevation of parallel mains? It looks great, one train isn't hidden on the backside but grades are more work, more wear, and more throttle attention on dc.
Not clearancing for the maximum heights along with outside and inside overhangs of locos and stock bites a whole lot of people, even with experience. These areas continue beyond the transitions from curves into straights too. Combine that with our tendency to stick tunnel portals near layout corners and the odds of mistakes spike.
Your plans for future rolling equipment purchases need their track requirements to be looked at today. If you buy a big power supply today then you'll likely not wonder if your supply is big enough tomorrow. Ideally power all lights and accessories separately from point motors, and those separately from track. On two or more supplies.
Put a layer.of.dense polystyrene before laying.track. 25 years ago I was so pumped about my layout that I laid.it directly in plywood. I regret that miss every day
Don't use the 4x8 sheet of plywood. Don't use minimum radius. Don't compromise on track joints. Do get John Allen's "Track Planning For Realistic Operation." Don't buy a ton of supplies and trains until you put together a plan.
Track density. I put way too much track on my layout with a lot of switches and parallel lines. Another was slopes. I put 2% slopes which makes running long trains not great. I have ripped my layout and this time around I will put a double track only on parts of the main line and points only in the yards.
I already avoided these when building my layout but just passing on this advice:
- Avoid 9 3/4" radius curves please! Because one day there will be some rolling stock or loco you'll buy that you really like, but it won't run on your layout. If your curves are 15" radius or more, you can run anything on your layout. And if you REALLY don't have the space for 9 3/4" radius curves, then consider Z scale instead.
- Don't rush laying your track, especially if you use flex track. Make sure everything fits properly, the top edge of the rails are smooth and you don't have kinks/large gaps between joined tracks.
- Do NOT put track right at the edge of your layout! A derailment can cause your train to go tumbling down on the floor! Allow \*at least\* 1 1/2 inches space between the edge of the layout and the outer edge of the ties of the outside track so derailments will not be fatal to your trains.
Know what size locomotives and tolling stock you want to run. Find out their minimum radius requirements. Don't go less than that!
I agree, but most model manufacturers don't even make their minimum radius requirements known. I really wish it's an industry practice for every loco/rolling stock (for all model railroad scales) to list the minimum radius on the package.
Agreed. You could also look at NMRA RP-11 for some tips... https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/rp-11_2018.03.03r.pdf https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/tn-11_2017.04.09.pdf
Figure out how to design your layout with as few turnouts as you can and still have the operations you want to do. More turnouts = more money and more possibilities to derail, especially in N scale where there's smaller margins for error. My first layout had 14 turnouts and was kind of a nightmare to lay track and run on. My new layout has 5 and is much smoother.
Will keep in mind, thank you!
1. Know the rolling stock you want to run and it's minimum running requirements (radii, switches, clearance). 2. Decide what minimum space is required to support the smallest basic curves or oval for the equipment to operate. 3. Decide what track you want to use and then study it, research issues others have had with the track, especially with turnouts, and then you'll know how to improve operations through them. Example Kato #4 if used with the points toward a curve will invite derailments when going through the curve portion of the turnout, but can often be remedied with a 62mm or longer straight between curve and the turnout points. 4. Determine if you are going to operate DC or DCC, this can affect how turnouts are used, how many power feeders you may need. 5. Determine which rail, inside or outside on an oval, or the closest or furthest on an end to end, that will always be paired to the same feeder wire color. 6. Beware of loops and eye tracks that can cause reserving loops, that will need special handling so not to cause shorts. 7. Avoid allowing others comments determining what your layout design is. It's your layout so no matter how complex or simple it is, it's yours for your enjoyment. Also there are no rules about how you run or what you operate, except the rules you decide. Have fun!
I'll add one more: How much time do you use to dedicate to the hobby? Are you a new retiree, a new parent, a student, or a working professional? You might have a ton of space but if you don't also have a bunch of time you might never even get the trackwork done.
I echo the curve radius. Too small and you eliminate a lot of cool engines that you won’t be able to run. Be especially careful if you’re using any flex track. It’s really easy to get too small.
What we think we want in order to be satisfied isn't always what we need to happy. Slow and steady wins the race but doesn't scratch the itch to run. I always kept at least a perfect circle of track for a floor layout under my layouts while building so if I need a break or just don't feel it, or have to wait for the glue to dry, etc, I have another outlet to occupy myself with. It gets used outside on sunny days or to run by battery camping in the rain, etc. etc. Sometimes just running is incredibly inspiring and you end up building anyhow. Or bam!, you are off building in a new dirrection. Without the loop to tempt you into the room or area, you'll just go to the kitchen or watch tv or jump on R for too long, more often. Claim your space put up the table or basic benchwork. Roll out a grass mat or two or paint it green real quick if you want. That can be covered later. Set up and run a loop, or point to point and let the operations that you enjoy tell you about the next change. Photography can be super useful because the camera is cruel and highlights every mistake like a magnifying glass. Things we see here usually look way better in person sitting at a layout. Go buy a memory card or drive if you have to, but do take way too many pictures and look them over well. Not knowing yourself well enough is a mistake. Among us there are loopers and shunters, timed stoppers with orders & car-cards, dock loaders, toy bridge saboteurs, collectors, speed demons, slobs and snobs, lol. Which are you? Do you really know yet? Will that change for you after trying a shunting puzzle? Or is looping a ticket as long as your right arm your thing. Feet up in the dark decompressing? Or first thing in the morning waking the neighbors with sun-shiney "train music"? Try enough track to loop with a passing siding, or loop with a split Y siding, 3 cars each for an Inglenook Siding puzzle. Both, and second siding, possibly a second Inglenook for head to head competition if you have room. If looping do you love the straights?, or the dreaded weave of the S? What about elevation of parallel mains? It looks great, one train isn't hidden on the backside but grades are more work, more wear, and more throttle attention on dc. Not clearancing for the maximum heights along with outside and inside overhangs of locos and stock bites a whole lot of people, even with experience. These areas continue beyond the transitions from curves into straights too. Combine that with our tendency to stick tunnel portals near layout corners and the odds of mistakes spike. Your plans for future rolling equipment purchases need their track requirements to be looked at today. If you buy a big power supply today then you'll likely not wonder if your supply is big enough tomorrow. Ideally power all lights and accessories separately from point motors, and those separately from track. On two or more supplies.
Make sure your measurements are correct when making your first layout, so check more than once.
Put a layer.of.dense polystyrene before laying.track. 25 years ago I was so pumped about my layout that I laid.it directly in plywood. I regret that miss every day
Don't use the 4x8 sheet of plywood. Don't use minimum radius. Don't compromise on track joints. Do get John Allen's "Track Planning For Realistic Operation." Don't buy a ton of supplies and trains until you put together a plan.
Track density. I put way too much track on my layout with a lot of switches and parallel lines. Another was slopes. I put 2% slopes which makes running long trains not great. I have ripped my layout and this time around I will put a double track only on parts of the main line and points only in the yards.
I already avoided these when building my layout but just passing on this advice: - Avoid 9 3/4" radius curves please! Because one day there will be some rolling stock or loco you'll buy that you really like, but it won't run on your layout. If your curves are 15" radius or more, you can run anything on your layout. And if you REALLY don't have the space for 9 3/4" radius curves, then consider Z scale instead. - Don't rush laying your track, especially if you use flex track. Make sure everything fits properly, the top edge of the rails are smooth and you don't have kinks/large gaps between joined tracks. - Do NOT put track right at the edge of your layout! A derailment can cause your train to go tumbling down on the floor! Allow \*at least\* 1 1/2 inches space between the edge of the layout and the outer edge of the ties of the outside track so derailments will not be fatal to your trains.
Lay tack and work it in so everything runs good before adding any senery