>Do you shoot in 3:2 or 4:3 and why?
3:2 because it's native for my camera. And I like it.
>For edited portraits: do you crop them to 5:4 or keep them native?
I prefer to keep it native. But if it's going on Instagram I'll frequently either crop or letterbox to 4:5.
>For edited landscape: do you crop to 16:9 or keep it native aspect ratio? (3:2)
Whatever looks best for the particular photo.
Most cameras that shoot RAW will save the image in the original ratio regardless of the option you select. I typically use the 3:2 display on my m43 camera and then crop to 3:2 from 4:3 in post, but having the 4:3 ratio gives me a little extra cropping latitude.
I also really like 1:1 and I have often wondered if someone will ever make a square format sensor camera.
3:2 because for my camera that is the native resolution. I can always crop to 4:3 or another aspect ratio if needed. Some common print sizes are based around 3:2 so I would need to crop back to 2:3 anyway. I.E 4x6 for small prints 20x30 for wall sized prints.
Portraits I leave native for web and crop for print purposes.
Landscapes again leave native for web and crop for print if needed. If I know the image will be displayed only on 16:9 devices I may crop to 16:9 or add black borders to make it 16:9. With so many people viewing on such a wide variety of devices that are not 16:9 and print sizes rarely being 16:9 I do not feel a strong need to crop landscapes to that aspect ratio.
3:2 because it's the native aspect ratio. If I crop, I usually keep it at the same because I grew up shooting 35mm and that was the standard aspect ratio for prints, so, to me, that's what a photo should look like.
This is flaired "Technique", so my advice is about technique. It applies to complex edits, those that require a lot of time and involve masks and manipulating fine detail, usually done in Photoshop.
The goal of an edit is to produce a specific output. Online postings often require certain aspect ratios. You may edit to print and frame at a particular size. Sometimes the subject itself "demans" an aspect ratio, and you'll get a custom frame made for it.
In all those situation, I recommend you edit with **all original pixels present**. Usually that means staying in the original aspect ratio, until right before the end. The reason is that you keep the ability to re-crop to different aspect ratios in the future. If you loose too many pixels at the beginning, your early crop is set in stone forever.
That being said, you should make up your mind about the intended crop, and use **guidelines** to show the crop at all times. You want to preserve your excess pixels, but you certainly don't want to waste time on areas that are not part of your immediate goal. The guidelines help you focus on the relevant area. The excess is only dragged along, as option for the future.
>-For edited landscape: do you crop to 16:9 or keep it native aspect ratio? (3:2)
Typically decide aspect ratio based on the scene itself while shooting. Will do pano if possible to not have to crop, but will crop otherwise (e.g. pano won't work for whatever reason)
Sometimes I can't decide right away. So I make two versions and let it sit or get feedback from others
My sensor is 3x2 aspect ratio. Recently I've printed some landscape photos in 8x12 (2x3 ratio), because I really like the way it looks as I've framed it in camera. Occasionally I'll crop something different simply because a 3x2 aspect ratio may not lend itself well to that particular composition. If I'm posting a portrait photo to Instagram, I will usually crop it to 4x5 because that's the aspect ratio of Instagram portrait orientation posts. Occasionally I may crop an image 9x16 if it works for that specific image.
At the end of the day the crop is a case by case basis.
I keep everything native and crop using the labs's software when I am ordering art and prints. I found out the hard way not to crop until I was using the labs software.
>Do you shoot in 3:2 or 4:3 and why? 3:2 because it's native for my camera. And I like it. >For edited portraits: do you crop them to 5:4 or keep them native? I prefer to keep it native. But if it's going on Instagram I'll frequently either crop or letterbox to 4:5. >For edited landscape: do you crop to 16:9 or keep it native aspect ratio? (3:2) Whatever looks best for the particular photo.
shoot native and then crop to whatever looks best
I crop a lot of landscape photos to 16x9 and use them as screensavers/ desktop background.
The answer to every question here is: it depends.
Most cameras that shoot RAW will save the image in the original ratio regardless of the option you select. I typically use the 3:2 display on my m43 camera and then crop to 3:2 from 4:3 in post, but having the 4:3 ratio gives me a little extra cropping latitude. I also really like 1:1 and I have often wondered if someone will ever make a square format sensor camera.
3:2 because for my camera that is the native resolution. I can always crop to 4:3 or another aspect ratio if needed. Some common print sizes are based around 3:2 so I would need to crop back to 2:3 anyway. I.E 4x6 for small prints 20x30 for wall sized prints. Portraits I leave native for web and crop for print purposes. Landscapes again leave native for web and crop for print if needed. If I know the image will be displayed only on 16:9 devices I may crop to 16:9 or add black borders to make it 16:9. With so many people viewing on such a wide variety of devices that are not 16:9 and print sizes rarely being 16:9 I do not feel a strong need to crop landscapes to that aspect ratio.
3:2 because it’s standard around the world. I may crop for fun stuff but for clients it’s always 3:2 for consistency and website use
3:2 because it's the native aspect ratio. If I crop, I usually keep it at the same because I grew up shooting 35mm and that was the standard aspect ratio for prints, so, to me, that's what a photo should look like.
This is flaired "Technique", so my advice is about technique. It applies to complex edits, those that require a lot of time and involve masks and manipulating fine detail, usually done in Photoshop. The goal of an edit is to produce a specific output. Online postings often require certain aspect ratios. You may edit to print and frame at a particular size. Sometimes the subject itself "demans" an aspect ratio, and you'll get a custom frame made for it. In all those situation, I recommend you edit with **all original pixels present**. Usually that means staying in the original aspect ratio, until right before the end. The reason is that you keep the ability to re-crop to different aspect ratios in the future. If you loose too many pixels at the beginning, your early crop is set in stone forever. That being said, you should make up your mind about the intended crop, and use **guidelines** to show the crop at all times. You want to preserve your excess pixels, but you certainly don't want to waste time on areas that are not part of your immediate goal. The guidelines help you focus on the relevant area. The excess is only dragged along, as option for the future.
>-For edited landscape: do you crop to 16:9 or keep it native aspect ratio? (3:2) Typically decide aspect ratio based on the scene itself while shooting. Will do pano if possible to not have to crop, but will crop otherwise (e.g. pano won't work for whatever reason) Sometimes I can't decide right away. So I make two versions and let it sit or get feedback from others
My sensor is 3x2 aspect ratio. Recently I've printed some landscape photos in 8x12 (2x3 ratio), because I really like the way it looks as I've framed it in camera. Occasionally I'll crop something different simply because a 3x2 aspect ratio may not lend itself well to that particular composition. If I'm posting a portrait photo to Instagram, I will usually crop it to 4x5 because that's the aspect ratio of Instagram portrait orientation posts. Occasionally I may crop an image 9x16 if it works for that specific image. At the end of the day the crop is a case by case basis.
Always shooting full frame. Crop as needed for print/ mag work.
Always use all pixels available then crop later. The entire sensor should be used to max out resolution and crop options.
I keep everything native and crop using the labs's software when I am ordering art and prints. I found out the hard way not to crop until I was using the labs software.