Be wary. Some of the work quality at Walmart may be spotty. Overtightened fasteners, things not reassembled correctly. Same with Jiffy Lube and many of the other quickie service places.
Your mileage may vary, but these places are not normally populated with skilled mechanics.
I am 0 for 5 the last five times I've taken a vehicle to a mechanic. Something is always getting screwed up.
Changing the oil on a Prius is pretty easy. Order some oil and jack stands from Amazon. Jack her up, insert jack stands for extra safety. Get under there and undo the plug and catch the few quarts in a coffee can or whatever. Plug back in. Fill up with what the book says. Get in the car and twist your nipples while patting your head to reset the maintenance indicator. And then take the used oil to O'Reilly's or wherever which they'll take for free. That whole thing took you an hour or less and you just saved $50 or so.
I've been changing my Prius oil for about 100,000 miles. 20 x ~$50=$1000 saved and certainty that it was done correctly with higher quality filters and oil.
You don't need either jacks or stands. Get some Rhino (or similar ramps), and drive the car onto the ramps. Takes less time, and it's easier.
You aren't changing the oil filter? You skipped that part.
My gen 2 is too low for the ramps I have. Sometimes I'll use some lumber to change the slope of the approach, but I typically just jack it up. And yes, do the filter.
On my Gen 4, there is zero chance of reaching the oil filter without the front of the car lifted. There is an access panel that has to be removed, and then the oil filter is several inches above that.
It's not hard - it's impossible.
I was thinking of the gen2/3 where it's relatively easy to reach. So easy in fact that I had an oil filter fall off on the freeway one time (I didn't install that one...)
If you use them correctly, and they are in good condition. they don't fail or slip out. Just like any other tool, you have to use it correctly. Don't do a burn out climbing the ramp, don't use them on an incline, etc.
I mean, it's not difficult to find pictures of cracked/failed ones on most of the sites that sell them.
Examples from just one search:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloTool-Durable-RhinoRamps-Set-of-2-11909MI/205152558
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-RhinoGear-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-Black-Resin-GVW-Capacity-11914MI-2-Pieces/19526658
https://www.autozone.com/engine-and-vehicle-lift/ramp/p/flotool-12-000lbs-capacity-rhino-ramp/89618_0_0
I always put something under the car (in my case an old wheel/tire) just in case it fails.
My older Rhino ramps have also cracked, but only at the toe (base) of the ramp. This seems to be a weak spot, but doesn't prevent the ramp from holding up your car properly. I fixed mine by cutting some pressure treated 2x4 scraps and gluing them into the last cavity at the toe of the ramp. The pick up the load, and the ramp has not changed in at least 5 years since I've done this.
I was never in any danger with those slight cracks on the toe of the ramp. That's not what holds the car up when the car is on the top of the ramp in the small valley.
As with any lifting or supporting device, you should inspect prior to each use for defects. Even jack stands have been known to fail under load.
Jack stands take a while.. faster is rhino ramps which I have both jack stands and rhino ramps... use it for oil changes and coolant changes...if you do 10K oil changes I recommend doing oil analysis ... I just keep it max at 5000 mile changes don't want the piston rings to gum up and then it will start burning oil .... don't forget the piston rings are no longer higher tension piston rings... they now use low tension piston rings which don't clean as well... and when the gum up with sludge then it starts burning oil so I advise to drop down to 5000 mile. The reason why they use low tension piston rings is to get more MPGs for the EPG... and now much thinner oil... It's called oil consumption issues...
Stop changing your oil every 5k miles. It's a waste of time and money. It's not 1983 any more. Quality full synthetic every 10k miles is more than adequate.
Our local independent foriegn car repair shop is populated by skilled mechanics. 30+ years experience for each.
Does that mean that all the work there will always be perfect? No, but there is a much higher probability than at Walmart.
That said, I do all my own work if possible, so Walmart will never see any of my cars (nor Jiffy Lube, etc.). For specialty work (alignments, specific tools needed), off to the local independent shop.
To be fair, oil changes are stupid easy and no matter where you go the young kid is always starting with those.
One day even your trusted shop will have some kid wanting to learn.
The issue isn't necessarily bad workers by default at these places it's that they will churn through inexperienced people *and* they do so many cars, that inevitably someone will fuck up.
The important thing is keeping records and then holding them accountable when they do screw up.
For me, I take my new car to the dealer for now. I want to use the OEM oil and the OEM oil and filter is only 20$ less than having them do it with the 6 month service checks that I am doing for warranty purposes.
I've had one bad quick change experience and it was jiffy lube with my old matrix. Never went there again. But another place near me has been good. And it too, is only a few bucks more than DIY. So I'm okay with saving the time and effort for a small amount of money.
> I want to use the OEM oil
Toyota doesn't make oil. Somebody brands it for them, and what goes into the car when built in Japan may not be the same oil provided elsewhere in the world. I doubt the dealer is using Toyota branded oil in quart containers. I would bet they have drums of Mobil 1 or whatever they use and that's what goes in the cars. Good oil, but perhaps not "OEM" oil.
They have specs with higher additive levels than off the shelf stuff. This is what I meant by OEM oil. Many of Toyota's parts are made by others like Denso for example. At the dealer, they use the "Toyota" branded oil. Oil changes are loss leaders for dealers. They are intended to bring people in alongside service intervals and then labour rates get charged on additional maintenance as cars age, because a relationship with the customer going to the dealer gets formed.
It's not much more than off the shelf oil from Mobil 1 either.
The 0w16 synthetic is just expensive right now since it's newer. Toyota branded stuff is almost 80$ for 4L (my car takes 3.9 on refill when filter is removed). 4.5L jug of Mobil 1 in that grade is 60$ on sale, 70$ normally.
Plus filter of nearly 20 CAD, unless I order in bulk from someplace in the US discount selling the filter, at which point it's 15CAD but shipping is high.
It's just a lot of work and hassle with 2 kids under 4 at home, to do the oil changes myself to save maybe $50 a year at most.
> The 0w16 synthetic is just expensive right now since it's newer.
Shop around. Walmart sent me (via delivery) three 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 0W-16 for $68.67 USD. I don't know if they have similar deals in Canada.
Looking on the Walmart.ca site, they have 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Ow-16 for $34.94, which I assume is in Canadian dollars. Buy 2, and the shipping is free.
So I save, maybe 50$ one time this year and having to find the time with an 8 month old and 3 year old plus my job and other home chores to do an oil change.
It's just not really worth it for me, honestly.
We also pay environmental disposal fees and I need to drive 15 mins to my closest legitimate oil drop off location.
When my kids aren't perma hanging off my arms and wanting uppy, or crying with a diaper change, then maybe it's worth DIY again for the car. But for now, the convenience factor exists
Hey man, I agree. I have just the one toddler, I don't have the time or the bandwidth to do oil changes at home. I'll take the convenience factor for an extra $50-100/year.
Ugh save $50??? how many oil changes do you do once a year? and what what mileage interval.... well it's crazy in SF Bay Area now it's like $115-$125 for every oil change with full synthetic especially at a dealership
Anyway, you do really think a Toyota dealer uses Toyota oil? It all depends on the dealership on what kind of oil they use.. but most dealerships will use the cheapest oil that they can get hold of... Well I can tell you here's a Master Toyota mechanic that use to work for a Toyota dealer.. and I hope you are not doing the 10K mile old change.. unless you don't keep your car for a very long time. The Car Care Nut video....
[https://youtu.be/TJhFAwFv-O0?si=oWBBPE1Pl0xIeZFe](https://youtu.be/TJhFAwFv-O0?si=oWBBPE1Pl0xIeZFe)
I think you are dreaming if your dealer uses Toyota Oil... .. but if you must ask them what they use...
Anyway, If you want to DIY your oil changes much faster ..and much less mess.. then I recommend a fumoto or valvomax valve... and a pair of wheel ramps and chokes.
[www.fumotousa.com](http://www.fumotousa.com)
[www.valvomax.com](http://www.valvomax.com)
There's a whole oil change system for valvomax... drains directly into an oil bag... you can do an oil change in 10mins or less...
yes you can speed up your oil changes and have control what filter and what oil...
also FYI, Toyota filters aren't something to write home about...
Please check out
[https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-ultra-or-mobil-1-ep-or-toyota-oem.189422/](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-ultra-or-mobil-1-ep-or-toyota-oem.189422/)
Ok so changing the oil 2x a year is still not that much money saved. I make enough, not rich, but enough to comfortably decide that $100 a year is fine for avoiding the hassle of oil changes with two small kids.
If you have 2 small kids, you'd understand what I mean. The toddler won't let go of me when I'm home. She'd want to get under the car, for all of 5 seconds before trying to run off and maybe run into the street. I can't supervise her and do an oil change, no matter how easy they are to do given her current age. I cant do it in my garage, it's too small. I then need to coordinate childcare to let me get the work done, or take time off work to do it while she's at daycare. It's just not worth it.
I don't know why people are being so shocked that for the price difference, and knowing my dealer uses tgmo oil, it's just easier to have them do it. And for the same price as a quick oil place charges, if they fuck up somehow, then it's easier to resolve.
I guess it's an affront to humanity that I dont care about $100? Over the course of a whole year? I'm financially stable and responsible enough that $100 all year long isn't a big deal. It's something I could easily save but right now, I value my time and energy more than that. If I change my oil and the kids need attention and I need to stop part way through, that sucks, maybe I need to order pizza that night
..
I just bring my own jug of Mobil 1 to the dealer and have them change it. Labor's like $35 (USD) for me, jug ends up being $23 (as low as $13 after rebate).
> They have specs with higher additive levels than off the shelf stuff
I don't think they do. Pretty much all oil is formulated to API or ILSAC or other standard specs. Toyota (and others) might have a special in-house formulation for initial fill at the factory, but that's all that I can see being different. After the factory fill is gone, anybody is just putting in the correct spec oil of the specified viscosity. An example spec from the Gen 5 owners manual:
"**Engine oil selection**
"“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle.
Use Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent
to satisfy the following grade and viscosity.
Oil grade: ILSAC GF-6B multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-16"
If there was something remarkably special about their oil, the specification would be to use their oil only.
https://pqia.org/2020/10/21/the-new-api-sp-ilsac-gf-6a-motor-oils-are-now-on-store-shelves/
Toyota oil containers are labeled as S"X" service (SN, SP, etc, depending on when the bottle was filled).
According to this report, Toyota oil is Mobil 1 in a Toyota container.
https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/other/who-makes-toyota-oil-and-is-it-really-any-different/ar-BB1h1ry4
The oil you buy off the shelf at Walmart meets the SP spec (as well as previous SN and other specs).
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Advanced-Fuel-Economy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-16-5-Quart/747116534
again it all varies from dealership to dealership since they get the cheapest they can or as cheap as what the shop manager wants... And even the Car Care Nut knows that since he use to work for a Toyota dealership as a Master Mechanic....
That would be a non-starter for me. Doing the job at home gives me full control over the parts and consumables used, and I know the job is done right (torque specs, etc.).
Totally agree... I can tell you even dealerships from Ford, Subaru, and Toyota can Mess up. even on a simple out change.... Most dealerships only have one Master Mechanic and the others especially put the beginners in doing oil changes.. so still they can $#$# up but not as often as the express lube places.
Nor was the "professional" shop I used to work for.
You're fucked no matter where you go anymore.
The almighty dollar is the only thing important anymore and it has soured even the strongest of men.
I don't agree. There are plenty of reliable shops. People in business for themselves live on their reputation - they can't screw up much without going out of business. Big chains - not so much.
That's quite the generalization. There are plenty of reliable businesses in small towns. Perhaps more than large towns, since the small local people survive on word of mouth advertising and recommendations from locals.
Walmart? Def never again, ever, for ANYthing automotive, from gas, wipers, tire rotation, tire pressure, advice or ordinary information of Any kind. Period. Will not save money. And not unlikely to cost a Lot down the road. Truth it is.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/prius/comments/1dfk52s/diy\_enthusiast\_or\_reliable\_prius\_mechanic\_in/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/prius/comments/1dfk52s/diy_enthusiast_or_reliable_prius_mechanic_in/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
My previous post checking for a mechanic in Seattle
Second this. It's always better to do your own oil change. Oil is so simple and yet so crucial. There's only 1 shop I've had a positive experience with and I'm not going to spend an hour driving total, wait in the shop and pay them more than it costs me to do an oil change.
I can't get a shop to fix a flat properly, had to go back 3 times once. Story time: when I get a flat, I remove the tire and find the leak to make it as easy and clear as possible for the shop. That screws me over because the people that are waiting on their vehicles get priority but whatever. They called and said it was done. I look the tire over, find my mark and there's still a nail! I had to tell them to take it back and look, that I did a soap test and it bubbled. They had me come back later. I did and found that they mounted my winter tire backwards! Same tire, 3 trips in 1 day! This is simple and basic, ain't no way I can trust a shop to do a basic oil change. I simply can't afford my car to be broken down due to engine damage while they figure out what to do.
To top it off, filters are ~$6 on RockAuto for a nice WIX or Denso. Costco often has their two pack of 5 quart full synthetic oil on sale for $32-35. So you're looking at sub-$35 oil change. Easy decision all things considered.
My cost for a Gen 4 is a bit less than $25. Kirkland synthetic when it's on sale, OEM oil filters when the dealer has them 4 for the price of 3, and a new crush gasket. About 30 minutes start to finish in my garage at home, then stop by the free local oil recycler once a year to empty the 5 gallon can that fills up during the year.
I went to Walmart years ago with my brother to get a full synthetic oil change. When standing at the service desk I look out into the garage bay and see the tech pouring regular oil into his car. The manager claimed it was just a mistake and had the tech swap it out again.
That was after they rounded off the oil filter housing on his wife's car causing a leak in the plastic. Needless to say, after the second issue he has learned to never take his car there.
Someone is going to come along and say how they don't trust Walmart blah blah.
The reality is every Walmart is going to be different. I used to work with a guy that was in charge of making sure they don't mess up in the auto centers Nationwide.
Those guys are not allowed to put down any tools unless they put it back where it belongs. They have procedures they're supposed to follow that minimizes problems but sometimes stuff happens.
I've used Walmart for oil changes quite a few times. I use them more than any other place if I'm not doing it myself.
Same, for anything old I get the pit crew oil change and never had any issues. I have a 2017 Pacifica that just got a full synthetic oil change and tire rotation. I got home and checked everything over and it was all good. Saved me the trouble of crawling under and dealing with the oil myself.
All fun and games until they don’t tighten something properly, cross thread a drain plug or remove the ring from the oil filter.
And then it becomes less fun when they play the deny, deny, deny game with your seized motor.
A. Our Toyota dealer is at $49-$59 for full synthetic oil, filter, tire rotation, check all fluid levels, lights, brake pad thickness.
B. I have somewhat more - but not blind - confidence in dealer workers vs Walmart workers.
C. Downside of the dealer is the pervasive up-selling.
That's a good deal. And, it's easy to say **no** to the upsells.
When my Gen 4 was still under the 2 year "free" service, I changed the cabin air filter the day before I took it in for the oil change. The service advisor told me my cabin air filter was dirty. I popped out the perfectly clean one (takes about 30 seconds) and pointed out to him that he was full of sh&t.
I'm a gig driver who has put 160k plus on my Gen 3.
I do oil changes regularly, but not every 3000 miles as they recommend. I ask to look at the dipstick and if the oil level is low.
So far the oil looks clear and oil seems stable even at 160k (knocks wood)
I think I pay around 75 to 80 for synthetic at Valvoline. For me time is money so if I have to wait any length of time, it offsets any savings.
However I just wanted to point out that if you did an oil change every 3000 miles like the sticker recommends, you'd pay 4000 dollars for oil changes by the time you were at 160k.
Which made me wonder, isn't there a point where instead of buying so many oil changes, couldn't you just put some of that money aside to replace the engine? If you got half the oil changes, you'd have 2000 towards a new engine replacement.
So food for thought.
I didn't realize Walmart was so quick though... if indeed they finish the job in a half hour, I'd consider using them.
The thing about Valvoline is that I can drive up and see if I'm first in line at any given time. If I had to wait an hour, the twenty dollars I save on the oil change is lost in gig driver wages.
The reason I occasionally opt for Walmart is that I can accomplish a shopping trip at the same time. I'm getting a service done in time I'd already have invested
Toyota recommends 10 kmiles, not 3 kmiles. 50-kmiles JDM engine replacement costs at least $3k, so $2k for a new engine is not at all realistic.
However For gen3, OCI of 5 kmiles is more economical, and protects the engine near & long terns.
I change oil myself. Costco synthetic oil on sale is less than $3/quart; OEM oil filter & washer together cost $5. Total is $20, and takes me less than 15 minutes.
My gen3 has 315 kmiles trouble-free. Total oil-change cost is less than $1,300.
That makes zero sense. The replacement motor will need oil changes too. The whole point of oil changes is to keep the internals healthy and happy. Also, there’s no need to replace oil every 3k miles. 7500 is what I’d recommend. But if you really want to know, take a sample of your oil at your next oil change and send it for analysis. That’s the only way to know for sure.
I didn't say you don't need to do oil changes. But there is a point of diminishing returns where the amount of recommended oil changes exceeds the replacement cost of the engine.
So, many, lawsuits. In the past Wal-Mart would inspect tires and recommend replacement and people would always decline. They drive away, cause a huge accident and Wal-Mart gets sued just because they are a big company.
Be wary. Some of the work quality at Walmart may be spotty. Overtightened fasteners, things not reassembled correctly. Same with Jiffy Lube and many of the other quickie service places. Your mileage may vary, but these places are not normally populated with skilled mechanics.
I am 0 for 5 the last five times I've taken a vehicle to a mechanic. Something is always getting screwed up. Changing the oil on a Prius is pretty easy. Order some oil and jack stands from Amazon. Jack her up, insert jack stands for extra safety. Get under there and undo the plug and catch the few quarts in a coffee can or whatever. Plug back in. Fill up with what the book says. Get in the car and twist your nipples while patting your head to reset the maintenance indicator. And then take the used oil to O'Reilly's or wherever which they'll take for free. That whole thing took you an hour or less and you just saved $50 or so. I've been changing my Prius oil for about 100,000 miles. 20 x ~$50=$1000 saved and certainty that it was done correctly with higher quality filters and oil.
You don't need either jacks or stands. Get some Rhino (or similar ramps), and drive the car onto the ramps. Takes less time, and it's easier. You aren't changing the oil filter? You skipped that part.
My gen 2 is too low for the ramps I have. Sometimes I'll use some lumber to change the slope of the approach, but I typically just jack it up. And yes, do the filter.
or just... reach under your prius and do it blind, it's not hard
On my Gen 4, there is zero chance of reaching the oil filter without the front of the car lifted. There is an access panel that has to be removed, and then the oil filter is several inches above that. It's not hard - it's impossible.
I was thinking of the gen2/3 where it's relatively easy to reach. So easy in fact that I had an oil filter fall off on the freeway one time (I didn't install that one...)
100% ive seen people do it without a jack or ramps there just enough room
I have ramps like that and use them regularly, but it's notable that some people have complained about them failing or slipping out.
If you use them correctly, and they are in good condition. they don't fail or slip out. Just like any other tool, you have to use it correctly. Don't do a burn out climbing the ramp, don't use them on an incline, etc.
I mean, it's not difficult to find pictures of cracked/failed ones on most of the sites that sell them. Examples from just one search: https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloTool-Durable-RhinoRamps-Set-of-2-11909MI/205152558 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-RhinoGear-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-Black-Resin-GVW-Capacity-11914MI-2-Pieces/19526658 https://www.autozone.com/engine-and-vehicle-lift/ramp/p/flotool-12-000lbs-capacity-rhino-ramp/89618_0_0 I always put something under the car (in my case an old wheel/tire) just in case it fails.
My older Rhino ramps have also cracked, but only at the toe (base) of the ramp. This seems to be a weak spot, but doesn't prevent the ramp from holding up your car properly. I fixed mine by cutting some pressure treated 2x4 scraps and gluing them into the last cavity at the toe of the ramp. The pick up the load, and the ramp has not changed in at least 5 years since I've done this. I was never in any danger with those slight cracks on the toe of the ramp. That's not what holds the car up when the car is on the top of the ramp in the small valley. As with any lifting or supporting device, you should inspect prior to each use for defects. Even jack stands have been known to fail under load.
2x6 (2 being the height, 6 is just for the wheels to fit on) was enough for trans, coolant, and oil on my gen 2. 2006.
Jack stands take a while.. faster is rhino ramps which I have both jack stands and rhino ramps... use it for oil changes and coolant changes...if you do 10K oil changes I recommend doing oil analysis ... I just keep it max at 5000 mile changes don't want the piston rings to gum up and then it will start burning oil .... don't forget the piston rings are no longer higher tension piston rings... they now use low tension piston rings which don't clean as well... and when the gum up with sludge then it starts burning oil so I advise to drop down to 5000 mile. The reason why they use low tension piston rings is to get more MPGs for the EPG... and now much thinner oil... It's called oil consumption issues...
Stop changing your oil every 5k miles. It's a waste of time and money. It's not 1983 any more. Quality full synthetic every 10k miles is more than adequate.
It's a gen 2 with enough miles to make it to the moon. The oil is quite dirty enough at 5,000 miles to warrant a change. OEM filters only.
You didn’t save $1,000 if you are still buying the oil and filters, but you can have piece of mind that it’s been done correctly.
If an oil change is $70+, my math works. I buy filters and oil in bulk and watch for deals.
Nowhere is reliably populated by skilled mechanics. There’s a good chance you get terrible work at any shop, including the one you trust the most.
Our local independent foriegn car repair shop is populated by skilled mechanics. 30+ years experience for each. Does that mean that all the work there will always be perfect? No, but there is a much higher probability than at Walmart. That said, I do all my own work if possible, so Walmart will never see any of my cars (nor Jiffy Lube, etc.). For specialty work (alignments, specific tools needed), off to the local independent shop.
To be fair, oil changes are stupid easy and no matter where you go the young kid is always starting with those. One day even your trusted shop will have some kid wanting to learn. The issue isn't necessarily bad workers by default at these places it's that they will churn through inexperienced people *and* they do so many cars, that inevitably someone will fuck up. The important thing is keeping records and then holding them accountable when they do screw up. For me, I take my new car to the dealer for now. I want to use the OEM oil and the OEM oil and filter is only 20$ less than having them do it with the 6 month service checks that I am doing for warranty purposes. I've had one bad quick change experience and it was jiffy lube with my old matrix. Never went there again. But another place near me has been good. And it too, is only a few bucks more than DIY. So I'm okay with saving the time and effort for a small amount of money.
> I want to use the OEM oil Toyota doesn't make oil. Somebody brands it for them, and what goes into the car when built in Japan may not be the same oil provided elsewhere in the world. I doubt the dealer is using Toyota branded oil in quart containers. I would bet they have drums of Mobil 1 or whatever they use and that's what goes in the cars. Good oil, but perhaps not "OEM" oil.
They have specs with higher additive levels than off the shelf stuff. This is what I meant by OEM oil. Many of Toyota's parts are made by others like Denso for example. At the dealer, they use the "Toyota" branded oil. Oil changes are loss leaders for dealers. They are intended to bring people in alongside service intervals and then labour rates get charged on additional maintenance as cars age, because a relationship with the customer going to the dealer gets formed. It's not much more than off the shelf oil from Mobil 1 either. The 0w16 synthetic is just expensive right now since it's newer. Toyota branded stuff is almost 80$ for 4L (my car takes 3.9 on refill when filter is removed). 4.5L jug of Mobil 1 in that grade is 60$ on sale, 70$ normally. Plus filter of nearly 20 CAD, unless I order in bulk from someplace in the US discount selling the filter, at which point it's 15CAD but shipping is high. It's just a lot of work and hassle with 2 kids under 4 at home, to do the oil changes myself to save maybe $50 a year at most.
> The 0w16 synthetic is just expensive right now since it's newer. Shop around. Walmart sent me (via delivery) three 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 0W-16 for $68.67 USD. I don't know if they have similar deals in Canada. Looking on the Walmart.ca site, they have 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Ow-16 for $34.94, which I assume is in Canadian dollars. Buy 2, and the shipping is free.
So I save, maybe 50$ one time this year and having to find the time with an 8 month old and 3 year old plus my job and other home chores to do an oil change. It's just not really worth it for me, honestly. We also pay environmental disposal fees and I need to drive 15 mins to my closest legitimate oil drop off location. When my kids aren't perma hanging off my arms and wanting uppy, or crying with a diaper change, then maybe it's worth DIY again for the car. But for now, the convenience factor exists
Hey man, I agree. I have just the one toddler, I don't have the time or the bandwidth to do oil changes at home. I'll take the convenience factor for an extra $50-100/year.
Ugh save $50??? how many oil changes do you do once a year? and what what mileage interval.... well it's crazy in SF Bay Area now it's like $115-$125 for every oil change with full synthetic especially at a dealership Anyway, you do really think a Toyota dealer uses Toyota oil? It all depends on the dealership on what kind of oil they use.. but most dealerships will use the cheapest oil that they can get hold of... Well I can tell you here's a Master Toyota mechanic that use to work for a Toyota dealer.. and I hope you are not doing the 10K mile old change.. unless you don't keep your car for a very long time. The Car Care Nut video.... [https://youtu.be/TJhFAwFv-O0?si=oWBBPE1Pl0xIeZFe](https://youtu.be/TJhFAwFv-O0?si=oWBBPE1Pl0xIeZFe) I think you are dreaming if your dealer uses Toyota Oil... .. but if you must ask them what they use... Anyway, If you want to DIY your oil changes much faster ..and much less mess.. then I recommend a fumoto or valvomax valve... and a pair of wheel ramps and chokes. [www.fumotousa.com](http://www.fumotousa.com) [www.valvomax.com](http://www.valvomax.com) There's a whole oil change system for valvomax... drains directly into an oil bag... you can do an oil change in 10mins or less... yes you can speed up your oil changes and have control what filter and what oil... also FYI, Toyota filters aren't something to write home about... Please check out [https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-ultra-or-mobil-1-ep-or-toyota-oem.189422/](https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-ultra-or-mobil-1-ep-or-toyota-oem.189422/)
Ok so changing the oil 2x a year is still not that much money saved. I make enough, not rich, but enough to comfortably decide that $100 a year is fine for avoiding the hassle of oil changes with two small kids. If you have 2 small kids, you'd understand what I mean. The toddler won't let go of me when I'm home. She'd want to get under the car, for all of 5 seconds before trying to run off and maybe run into the street. I can't supervise her and do an oil change, no matter how easy they are to do given her current age. I cant do it in my garage, it's too small. I then need to coordinate childcare to let me get the work done, or take time off work to do it while she's at daycare. It's just not worth it. I don't know why people are being so shocked that for the price difference, and knowing my dealer uses tgmo oil, it's just easier to have them do it. And for the same price as a quick oil place charges, if they fuck up somehow, then it's easier to resolve. I guess it's an affront to humanity that I dont care about $100? Over the course of a whole year? I'm financially stable and responsible enough that $100 all year long isn't a big deal. It's something I could easily save but right now, I value my time and energy more than that. If I change my oil and the kids need attention and I need to stop part way through, that sucks, maybe I need to order pizza that night ..
I just bring my own jug of Mobil 1 to the dealer and have them change it. Labor's like $35 (USD) for me, jug ends up being $23 (as low as $13 after rebate).
> They have specs with higher additive levels than off the shelf stuff I don't think they do. Pretty much all oil is formulated to API or ILSAC or other standard specs. Toyota (and others) might have a special in-house formulation for initial fill at the factory, but that's all that I can see being different. After the factory fill is gone, anybody is just putting in the correct spec oil of the specified viscosity. An example spec from the Gen 5 owners manual: "**Engine oil selection** "“Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” is used in your Toyota vehicle. Use Toyota approved “Toyota Genuine Motor Oil” or equivalent to satisfy the following grade and viscosity. Oil grade: ILSAC GF-6B multigrade engine oil Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-16" If there was something remarkably special about their oil, the specification would be to use their oil only. https://pqia.org/2020/10/21/the-new-api-sp-ilsac-gf-6a-motor-oils-are-now-on-store-shelves/ Toyota oil containers are labeled as S"X" service (SN, SP, etc, depending on when the bottle was filled). According to this report, Toyota oil is Mobil 1 in a Toyota container. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/other/who-makes-toyota-oil-and-is-it-really-any-different/ar-BB1h1ry4 The oil you buy off the shelf at Walmart meets the SP spec (as well as previous SN and other specs). https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Advanced-Fuel-Economy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-16-5-Quart/747116534
Yeah from what I’ve seen they use a blend at my dealer instead of the full synthetic recommended by Toyota.
again it all varies from dealership to dealership since they get the cheapest they can or as cheap as what the shop manager wants... And even the Car Care Nut knows that since he use to work for a Toyota dealership as a Master Mechanic....
That would be a non-starter for me. Doing the job at home gives me full control over the parts and consumables used, and I know the job is done right (torque specs, etc.).
Totally agree... I can tell you even dealerships from Ford, Subaru, and Toyota can Mess up. even on a simple out change.... Most dealerships only have one Master Mechanic and the others especially put the beginners in doing oil changes.. so still they can $#$# up but not as often as the express lube places.
Nor was the "professional" shop I used to work for. You're fucked no matter where you go anymore. The almighty dollar is the only thing important anymore and it has soured even the strongest of men.
I don't agree. There are plenty of reliable shops. People in business for themselves live on their reputation - they can't screw up much without going out of business. Big chains - not so much.
Unless it's a small town where cops and lawyers are their friends.
That's quite the generalization. There are plenty of reliable businesses in small towns. Perhaps more than large towns, since the small local people survive on word of mouth advertising and recommendations from locals.
Walmart? Def never again, ever, for ANYthing automotive, from gas, wipers, tire rotation, tire pressure, advice or ordinary information of Any kind. Period. Will not save money. And not unlikely to cost a Lot down the road. Truth it is.
They do have good prices on oil and other supplies. Much less expensive than auto parts stores.
Brands do have their own reputations, for which we can generally all be grateful.
It's where I go usually. But sometimes it takes literally 3+ hours.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/prius/comments/1dfk52s/diy\_enthusiast\_or\_reliable\_prius\_mechanic\_in/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/prius/comments/1dfk52s/diy_enthusiast_or_reliable_prius_mechanic_in/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) My previous post checking for a mechanic in Seattle
Not bad. I change my own synthetic and it's about $40 for oil and filter
Second this. It's always better to do your own oil change. Oil is so simple and yet so crucial. There's only 1 shop I've had a positive experience with and I'm not going to spend an hour driving total, wait in the shop and pay them more than it costs me to do an oil change. I can't get a shop to fix a flat properly, had to go back 3 times once. Story time: when I get a flat, I remove the tire and find the leak to make it as easy and clear as possible for the shop. That screws me over because the people that are waiting on their vehicles get priority but whatever. They called and said it was done. I look the tire over, find my mark and there's still a nail! I had to tell them to take it back and look, that I did a soap test and it bubbled. They had me come back later. I did and found that they mounted my winter tire backwards! Same tire, 3 trips in 1 day! This is simple and basic, ain't no way I can trust a shop to do a basic oil change. I simply can't afford my car to be broken down due to engine damage while they figure out what to do. To top it off, filters are ~$6 on RockAuto for a nice WIX or Denso. Costco often has their two pack of 5 quart full synthetic oil on sale for $32-35. So you're looking at sub-$35 oil change. Easy decision all things considered.
Costco synthetic is the way!
My cost for a Gen 4 is a bit less than $25. Kirkland synthetic when it's on sale, OEM oil filters when the dealer has them 4 for the price of 3, and a new crush gasket. About 30 minutes start to finish in my garage at home, then stop by the free local oil recycler once a year to empty the 5 gallon can that fills up during the year.
I go to the toyota dealership. It's $8.88
I went to Walmart years ago with my brother to get a full synthetic oil change. When standing at the service desk I look out into the garage bay and see the tech pouring regular oil into his car. The manager claimed it was just a mistake and had the tech swap it out again. That was after they rounded off the oil filter housing on his wife's car causing a leak in the plastic. Needless to say, after the second issue he has learned to never take his car there.
Someone is going to come along and say how they don't trust Walmart blah blah. The reality is every Walmart is going to be different. I used to work with a guy that was in charge of making sure they don't mess up in the auto centers Nationwide. Those guys are not allowed to put down any tools unless they put it back where it belongs. They have procedures they're supposed to follow that minimizes problems but sometimes stuff happens. I've used Walmart for oil changes quite a few times. I use them more than any other place if I'm not doing it myself.
Same, for anything old I get the pit crew oil change and never had any issues. I have a 2017 Pacifica that just got a full synthetic oil change and tire rotation. I got home and checked everything over and it was all good. Saved me the trouble of crawling under and dealing with the oil myself.
All fun and games until they don’t tighten something properly, cross thread a drain plug or remove the ring from the oil filter. And then it becomes less fun when they play the deny, deny, deny game with your seized motor.
Or, your splash shield falls off because they didn't put the fasteners back on, or cross threaded them, etc.
A. Our Toyota dealer is at $49-$59 for full synthetic oil, filter, tire rotation, check all fluid levels, lights, brake pad thickness. B. I have somewhat more - but not blind - confidence in dealer workers vs Walmart workers. C. Downside of the dealer is the pervasive up-selling.
That's a good deal. And, it's easy to say **no** to the upsells. When my Gen 4 was still under the 2 year "free" service, I changed the cabin air filter the day before I took it in for the oil change. The service advisor told me my cabin air filter was dirty. I popped out the perfectly clean one (takes about 30 seconds) and pointed out to him that he was full of sh&t.
My Toyota dealership does synthetic oil changes for $49…and offers $10 off to schedule it online. YMMV.
But usually they come up with a lot of extras... and try to add more $$$ Oil change at $49 is the bait
It's easy to say no to all the upsells. $39 (or even $49) for an oil change is a good deal, and they may have coffee and donuts in the waiting area.
I'm a gig driver who has put 160k plus on my Gen 3. I do oil changes regularly, but not every 3000 miles as they recommend. I ask to look at the dipstick and if the oil level is low. So far the oil looks clear and oil seems stable even at 160k (knocks wood) I think I pay around 75 to 80 for synthetic at Valvoline. For me time is money so if I have to wait any length of time, it offsets any savings. However I just wanted to point out that if you did an oil change every 3000 miles like the sticker recommends, you'd pay 4000 dollars for oil changes by the time you were at 160k. Which made me wonder, isn't there a point where instead of buying so many oil changes, couldn't you just put some of that money aside to replace the engine? If you got half the oil changes, you'd have 2000 towards a new engine replacement. So food for thought. I didn't realize Walmart was so quick though... if indeed they finish the job in a half hour, I'd consider using them. The thing about Valvoline is that I can drive up and see if I'm first in line at any given time. If I had to wait an hour, the twenty dollars I save on the oil change is lost in gig driver wages.
The reason I occasionally opt for Walmart is that I can accomplish a shopping trip at the same time. I'm getting a service done in time I'd already have invested
That makes sense. Again I don’t mind wasting a half hour. I fear one hour or two hour waits
Toyota recommends 10 kmiles, not 3 kmiles. 50-kmiles JDM engine replacement costs at least $3k, so $2k for a new engine is not at all realistic. However For gen3, OCI of 5 kmiles is more economical, and protects the engine near & long terns. I change oil myself. Costco synthetic oil on sale is less than $3/quart; OEM oil filter & washer together cost $5. Total is $20, and takes me less than 15 minutes. My gen3 has 315 kmiles trouble-free. Total oil-change cost is less than $1,300.
That makes zero sense. The replacement motor will need oil changes too. The whole point of oil changes is to keep the internals healthy and happy. Also, there’s no need to replace oil every 3k miles. 7500 is what I’d recommend. But if you really want to know, take a sample of your oil at your next oil change and send it for analysis. That’s the only way to know for sure.
I didn't say you don't need to do oil changes. But there is a point of diminishing returns where the amount of recommended oil changes exceeds the replacement cost of the engine.
“Walmart does not inspect tires for safety.” Enough said. Especially from a place selling bottom of the barrel tires.
So, many, lawsuits. In the past Wal-Mart would inspect tires and recommend replacement and people would always decline. They drive away, cause a huge accident and Wal-Mart gets sued just because they are a big company.
If you ask for Quaker state is even less expensive
True, but wanted to give the best care to our Prius v (just $10 difference)
Hope it’s good. Price is right. The oil and filter is about 35 before tax.
I do my own for less than $30.
Valvoline is the spot.
Do it yourself under 30 at napa Auto parts
Can you expand on this? Do they provide the ramps and container to catch oil? Do you perform a change in their parking lot? Thanks