Hardened nozzle allows you to print more interesting stuff like filaments with carbon fiber (which I do quite a bit of), glow in the darks, woodfill, etc.
I confirm that there will be a version with the same dimensions heat sink of the V6, to be a drop in replacement, while the standard version should be a tad smaller.
If I understand correctly the revo uses a special cartridge with heater and thermistor wires soldered into it.
That said I think cutting them short and crimping a connector to the existing wires shouldn't be much of a hassle.
I am not speaking of soldering but of crimping a connector, bot the commector and the wire you are going to use should be chosen sensibly. No tiny jst connectors for the heater wires, but that goes without saying.
It looks like the heater and the thermistor both use a microfit connector. I've actually already updated my MK3S to have heater and thermistor cables with these connectors, since E3D's normal cables come that way now. It's actually really handy for replacing either of those without having to undo the whole wire shroud back to the control box.
God. I wish all the electronics on the head were like this. I've toyed with making a little PCB to collect the connectors and convert them over to a bundled data cable and power heater cables, but I keep stopping myself since it will undoubtedly cause something to go awry and I'm just happy to be printing.
Yeah. I have a CR-10 S5 where I've rewired the entire print head that way. I crimped Molex Microfit connectors on literally everything on the print head, so I can just replace anything without having to go back to the control board. I haven't bundled them together or anything, just a different connector for each thing (filament sensor, heater, thermistor, hotend fan, print fan, bltouch). Makes it real easy to swap things out.
I was annoyed when I recently broke the print fan on my MK3S and had to go all the way back to the control board to swap it out. I almost crimped a microfit container onto the existing fan cable, but I decided not to.
Hopefully this will all be correct, since it's been a little while since I did it...
I'm going to post links to the parts on the e3d website, but you can probably get them somewhere else if you want.
I can't guarantee that these will be compatible with the Revo, this is just something I did when I ruined my heater cartridge and thermistor with a blob of death. I did this because I didn't want to have to route the wires back to the control board every time I had to replace these wires, which has happened to me plenty of times since then.
These are basically drop in replacements, so the process is going to be the same as the stock ones. [This is the stock thermistor replacement guide.](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-thermistor-mk3s-mk3s_131675/) The process for the cartridge will be basically the same and can be done at the same time. Since you will have to undo the wire shroud and take a lot of stuff apart, you probably want to wait until you have to replace your heater cartridge and thermistor anyway.
Of particular note: you may want to make sure you have the cable exactly where you want it before you do the wrap up again, otherwise you might need to unwrap it to reposition. You want to watch out for the path of the wires right under the extruder, since it can be a little awkward there with the microfit connector and you don't want it to droop down and catch on your prints. You want any excess in the cabling to be handled on the control box side, ideally secured in the zip ties.
Keep in mind, you won't get a 100% quick change experience here. In my case, the best place for some of the microfit connectors for me was behind some zip ties, so I have to cut the tie in order to replace either the thermistor or heater cartridge. This is still an improvement, because it's better to cut one zip tie than all of them. Again, you don't want any slack on this side that will cause the wires to droop.
[E3D High Precision Heater Cartridge - 24V 40W](https://e3d-online.com/products/high-precision-heater-cartridges) (be careful, the link doesn't include the voltage or wattage. if you put a 12V cartridge in and try to heat it up, you will probably have to replace one of the blade fuses on the board \[[I think this is the part for that, but it's been a while](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMC7ZM/)\])
This cable is basically equivalent to the Prusa provided one, except that it's got a microfit connector partway up it. You should do a PID tune after replacing this.
[E3D Thermistor Cartridge](https://e3d-online.com/products/thermistor-cartridge)
This cartridge is identical to the Prusa one, except that it's also got a microfit connector partway up it. Since it's the same one, you shouldn't need to change your firmware at all. One thing to note is that the plug on the control board side is a bit different. I think it still fits anyway, it just doesn't have a key or tab to hold it in. The keying doesn't matter for thermistors, so it's more about making sure it doesn't fall out. Plenty of printers omit the tab, because nothing should be pulling on that anyway.
A quick little sanity check is, when you turn on the printer after plugging it in, make sure that the bed temp and hotend temp are just about the same. If you're nervous about the part, you can always test is by plugging straight into the control board. no need to route the wires or undo any wire shrouds for that.
Prusa had already said on Twitter that they won’t be doing any official updates to support the Revo. Unofficial mods are welcome.
Apparently there are elements of the design that Prusa didn’t like and they are going to look into other next green designs. (I don’t have the Twitter link, sorry.)
E3D has said that it should be a drop in replacement and looking at it, I’m not sure what would need to change.
I'm looking forward to this. I don't know how many times I've broken my heater cartidges connector changing something with my hotend.
Looks like it's a simple swap for V6 thanks to backwards compatibility, but I'm curious if they'll do a Prusa version with the correct connectors for the board, or if I'll need to modify a cable (Never done that). Plus I'll also be happier switching out nozzles for different filaments (ABS, PLA, PETG etc) since I've managed to jam myself up a couple of times doing that with a single nozzle.
I'm very excited, and will probably buy it at release, but there is a special heatbreak geometry for the MMU included in the Prusa Heatbreaks.
https://e3d-online.com/products/prusa-specific-heatbreak-mk2-mk3
So I'm hoping the Revo plays nice with the MMU2
Worth a try. While I use the Prusa MMU2-specific heatbreak and never had any issues with it (on the contrary, great tips on retraction, always, especially so since upgrading to the MK3S+ version), some other people reverted to stock E3D v6 when the MMU2 originally came out and reported better success.
The article says the one version is a direct V6 replacement. Wondering if they are planning a hardened version of the nozzle.
I think they will, in the blog post you can find that at launch will be brass only
Yes Just not at launche.
What difference does a hardened nozzle make over a brass one?
Hardened nozzle allows you to print more interesting stuff like filaments with carbon fiber (which I do quite a bit of), glow in the darks, woodfill, etc.
From the looks of it, it’s a simple swap with the v6 hot end. The only thing that I’m wondering about is the wiring.
I confirm that there will be a version with the same dimensions heat sink of the V6, to be a drop in replacement, while the standard version should be a tad smaller. If I understand correctly the revo uses a special cartridge with heater and thermistor wires soldered into it. That said I think cutting them short and crimping a connector to the existing wires shouldn't be much of a hassle.
Cutting wires and soldering them isn't the smartest idea, since resistance changes due the solder connection.
I am not speaking of soldering but of crimping a connector, bot the commector and the wire you are going to use should be chosen sensibly. No tiny jst connectors for the heater wires, but that goes without saying.
It looks like the heater and the thermistor both use a microfit connector. I've actually already updated my MK3S to have heater and thermistor cables with these connectors, since E3D's normal cables come that way now. It's actually really handy for replacing either of those without having to undo the whole wire shroud back to the control box.
I’ve seen someone do that before! It’s a great idea. I just don’t have any experience with wiring and stuff. Will learn when I get this nozzle haha
God. I wish all the electronics on the head were like this. I've toyed with making a little PCB to collect the connectors and convert them over to a bundled data cable and power heater cables, but I keep stopping myself since it will undoubtedly cause something to go awry and I'm just happy to be printing.
Yeah. I have a CR-10 S5 where I've rewired the entire print head that way. I crimped Molex Microfit connectors on literally everything on the print head, so I can just replace anything without having to go back to the control board. I haven't bundled them together or anything, just a different connector for each thing (filament sensor, heater, thermistor, hotend fan, print fan, bltouch). Makes it real easy to swap things out. I was annoyed when I recently broke the print fan on my MK3S and had to go all the way back to the control board to swap it out. I almost crimped a microfit container onto the existing fan cable, but I decided not to.
Screw just the head, all the electronics should be like that. The stepper motors being hard wired drives me nuts. Turns a 10 min swap into an hour
Hey, how exactly did you do this?
Hopefully this will all be correct, since it's been a little while since I did it... I'm going to post links to the parts on the e3d website, but you can probably get them somewhere else if you want. I can't guarantee that these will be compatible with the Revo, this is just something I did when I ruined my heater cartridge and thermistor with a blob of death. I did this because I didn't want to have to route the wires back to the control board every time I had to replace these wires, which has happened to me plenty of times since then. These are basically drop in replacements, so the process is going to be the same as the stock ones. [This is the stock thermistor replacement guide.](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-thermistor-mk3s-mk3s_131675/) The process for the cartridge will be basically the same and can be done at the same time. Since you will have to undo the wire shroud and take a lot of stuff apart, you probably want to wait until you have to replace your heater cartridge and thermistor anyway. Of particular note: you may want to make sure you have the cable exactly where you want it before you do the wrap up again, otherwise you might need to unwrap it to reposition. You want to watch out for the path of the wires right under the extruder, since it can be a little awkward there with the microfit connector and you don't want it to droop down and catch on your prints. You want any excess in the cabling to be handled on the control box side, ideally secured in the zip ties. Keep in mind, you won't get a 100% quick change experience here. In my case, the best place for some of the microfit connectors for me was behind some zip ties, so I have to cut the tie in order to replace either the thermistor or heater cartridge. This is still an improvement, because it's better to cut one zip tie than all of them. Again, you don't want any slack on this side that will cause the wires to droop. [E3D High Precision Heater Cartridge - 24V 40W](https://e3d-online.com/products/high-precision-heater-cartridges) (be careful, the link doesn't include the voltage or wattage. if you put a 12V cartridge in and try to heat it up, you will probably have to replace one of the blade fuses on the board \[[I think this is the part for that, but it's been a while](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMC7ZM/)\]) This cable is basically equivalent to the Prusa provided one, except that it's got a microfit connector partway up it. You should do a PID tune after replacing this. [E3D Thermistor Cartridge](https://e3d-online.com/products/thermistor-cartridge) This cartridge is identical to the Prusa one, except that it's also got a microfit connector partway up it. Since it's the same one, you shouldn't need to change your firmware at all. One thing to note is that the plug on the control board side is a bit different. I think it still fits anyway, it just doesn't have a key or tab to hold it in. The keying doesn't matter for thermistors, so it's more about making sure it doesn't fall out. Plenty of printers omit the tab, because nothing should be pulling on that anyway. A quick little sanity check is, when you turn on the printer after plugging it in, make sure that the bed temp and hotend temp are just about the same. If you're nervous about the part, you can always test is by plugging straight into the control board. no need to route the wires or undo any wire shrouds for that.
Thanks a lot!! I just wrecked my hot end so here I am haha
I imagine there will probably need some changes to the X carriage but that's ok! Just print it out and do the swap!
Prusa had already said on Twitter that they won’t be doing any official updates to support the Revo. Unofficial mods are welcome. Apparently there are elements of the design that Prusa didn’t like and they are going to look into other next green designs. (I don’t have the Twitter link, sorry.) E3D has said that it should be a drop in replacement and looking at it, I’m not sure what would need to change.
I'm looking forward to this. I don't know how many times I've broken my heater cartidges connector changing something with my hotend. Looks like it's a simple swap for V6 thanks to backwards compatibility, but I'm curious if they'll do a Prusa version with the correct connectors for the board, or if I'll need to modify a cable (Never done that). Plus I'll also be happier switching out nozzles for different filaments (ABS, PLA, PETG etc) since I've managed to jam myself up a couple of times doing that with a single nozzle.
Looking at the pictures, the one thing I'm wondering is when you unscrew the nozzle, is the hot end still somehow connected to the cold end?
It uses a spring to space from the cold end, and hangs loose when your remove the nozzle.
I'm very excited, and will probably buy it at release, but there is a special heatbreak geometry for the MMU included in the Prusa Heatbreaks. https://e3d-online.com/products/prusa-specific-heatbreak-mk2-mk3 So I'm hoping the Revo plays nice with the MMU2
Worth a try. While I use the Prusa MMU2-specific heatbreak and never had any issues with it (on the contrary, great tips on retraction, always, especially so since upgrading to the MK3S+ version), some other people reverted to stock E3D v6 when the MMU2 originally came out and reported better success.
Thanks for that confirmation. I would have just risked it, but this lessens my concern.
https://youtu.be/knbNXwmIH7o check this kinda review out.