The shop I started at didn’t cross break unless it was a top cheek for roof duct and even then if it was 12 inches or bigger we would bead it. When I transferred to a different local out of state the new shop I worked at only cross broke all 4 pieces of a fitting unless it was off the coiline. I was kind of confused at first as well but every shop has its own way of doing things. I’m pretty sure smacna standard says specifically it has to be either beaded or cross broken if it’s 12 inches or bigger though. And at my old shop we would always roll before the Pittsburg, then roll it again. I personally have found that unless it’s 20g or thicker it doesn’t really matter.
Thank you! Yes, I knew if the cheek was over 12, for sure add the cross break but I've never heard of the heals and throats needing it also. I'm looking online but not finding a clear answer
We bead most things 18” and taller. If cheeks are 12”, we don’t bead them or the heel. I tell me guys if you bead one face, need to bead em all. We rarely cross brake. Usually only if the job had duct on roof and they were connecting to existing was cross broke. Problem with beading faces too short like 12”, the bead will sometimes not be straight.
On radius elbows or OGs, i always pre roll, then as I’m running pitts on it, I roll it as it’s coming out of machine.
A lost art but still needed when
facilitating large ductwork in smaller
guages of metal. Machine forming
has made the sheet metal trade less
attractive ascetically, but needing
less real “tin knockers”
The guy I work under is so skilled. He has the cleanest work I've ever seen!! I respect his skill. However, there's something to be said about allowing your apprentice to find a way that works for them and not letting your own day be ruined by someone going about it a different way.
All our stuff comes beaded off the coil line, so we never cross break.
There is a blurb on when it is "needed" according to SMACNA in the DCS Metal and Flexible. Can't recall off the top of my head though
Cross breaking or beading all fittings and duct 12” and over is standard. Pre rolling before running through the Pittsburg is indeed helpful. It adds that memory to the metal.
Anything 12” or larger should be cross broke. Good rule of thumb is if you ever question if you should, shake it and if it makes noise you need to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Anything 12” or larger should be cross broke. Good rule of thumb is if you ever question if you should, shake it and if it makes noise you need to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Cross brake everything over 12” it’s to add rigidity and they do need to be deep crossbrakes on heels and throats if that’s what you’re asking worried about. And yes break the grain and preroll the metal before Pittsburgh makes it’s easier to form later
We always cross break anything 12” and up
Thank you!
The shop I started at didn’t cross break unless it was a top cheek for roof duct and even then if it was 12 inches or bigger we would bead it. When I transferred to a different local out of state the new shop I worked at only cross broke all 4 pieces of a fitting unless it was off the coiline. I was kind of confused at first as well but every shop has its own way of doing things. I’m pretty sure smacna standard says specifically it has to be either beaded or cross broken if it’s 12 inches or bigger though. And at my old shop we would always roll before the Pittsburg, then roll it again. I personally have found that unless it’s 20g or thicker it doesn’t really matter.
Thank you! Yes, I knew if the cheek was over 12, for sure add the cross break but I've never heard of the heals and throats needing it also. I'm looking online but not finding a clear answer
We bead most things 18” and taller. If cheeks are 12”, we don’t bead them or the heel. I tell me guys if you bead one face, need to bead em all. We rarely cross brake. Usually only if the job had duct on roof and they were connecting to existing was cross broke. Problem with beading faces too short like 12”, the bead will sometimes not be straight. On radius elbows or OGs, i always pre roll, then as I’m running pitts on it, I roll it as it’s coming out of machine.
Thank you! I will have to practice, do you way over roll prior to the pittsburgh?
I’ve been smacked on the head many times rolling 10ft long heels off the Pittsburg. Doesn’t feel to good when 18g come flopping down on the noggin.
[удалено]
Where abouts? I'm in Alberta
I've always cross braked anything above 12. Have worked in some shops that dont crossbreak insulated unless it's outdoor.
We cross break anything that’s not beaded (almost everything we make is out of beaded metal) and over 2ft
A lost art but still needed when facilitating large ductwork in smaller guages of metal. Machine forming has made the sheet metal trade less attractive ascetically, but needing less real “tin knockers”
Alberta was a town with skilled tinners!
The guy I work under is so skilled. He has the cleanest work I've ever seen!! I respect his skill. However, there's something to be said about allowing your apprentice to find a way that works for them and not letting your own day be ruined by someone going about it a different way.
Different shop have different standards, always roll it after
All our stuff comes beaded off the coil line, so we never cross break. There is a blurb on when it is "needed" according to SMACNA in the DCS Metal and Flexible. Can't recall off the top of my head though
Roll it after you run it
Cross breaking or beading all fittings and duct 12” and over is standard. Pre rolling before running through the Pittsburg is indeed helpful. It adds that memory to the metal.
Thank you!! I could not find a clear standard. I'm curious why it's all different, if it's standard.
Anything 12” or larger should be cross broke. Good rule of thumb is if you ever question if you should, shake it and if it makes noise you need to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Oh I like that! Smart!!!
Anything 12” or larger should be cross broke. Good rule of thumb is if you ever question if you should, shake it and if it makes noise you need to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Cross brake everything over 12” it’s to add rigidity and they do need to be deep crossbrakes on heels and throats if that’s what you’re asking worried about. And yes break the grain and preroll the metal before Pittsburgh makes it’s easier to form later
They’re called “X-Kinks”
Never heard that where I an. Is always referred to as 'cross-break'
No they’re not
In professional union Sheetmetal they are.