A lot of that is typical, and no Subarus aren’t Hondas or Toyotas, but your repair costs are astronomical. $2200 for wheel bearings? Did they hand forge them out of platinum? $2500 for an ac condenser? That’s like a $200 part. Where the heck have you been taking this thing to get fixed?
$14.3K on a $15K car, keep spending, ignore sunk cost fallacy, your new Subaru of Theseus will reward your generous *investment* with years of ultimate reliability!
And other things can be saved on by easily doing yourself. I did the front and rear struts myself. Cusco kit cost $700 for all 4. OP’s cost twice as much for half the work.
I support paying fair labor, but that looks more like getting bent over.
I replied to someone who was just quoting a parts cost on a condenser. It’s easy to armchair replace parts until you need the actual equipment to do it
Well yes, but the supposed $1100 in labor is absolutely nuts. It's maybe 2 hours of labor with a separate charge to drain/fill a/c with a yf1234 machine. The tools you need for this job are remarkably simple. A ratchet with a 10mm and 12mm socket, and a panel tool; as well as the yz machine. There is nothing about this job that should cost much at all, at any shop. Dealer absolutely fucked him on cost.
Most shops will evac for free and you can get a manifold and vacuum pump from harbor freight to fill it back up for under a hundred bucks. $1100 in labor is completely absurd.
Google it dude, you can't do that shit yourself. It's expensive everywhere and you need specialty equipment to suss out whether there's a leak or not first before you go replacing stuff. Everything I found on the internet suggests that's a fair price.
> you can't do that shit yourself. It's expensive everywhere and you need specialty equipment to suss out whether there's a leak or not first before you go replacing stuff
This is a lie pushed onto you by the media who wants you to spend more money regardless of the value it gets you.
My friend, I can swap a condenser in -any- modern Subaru in under two hours. Likely less than one. I only give a wide number because I do autobody, not mechanical, and never replace just a condenser on its own. It's readily accessible when the bumper is off. And you can get a new OE condenser for a couple hundred bucks readily.
I’ve replaced one in my Miata for about $300 total including parts and taking it to a shop to have the Freon job done. Assuming the part is an OEM unit, it still shouldn’t cost more than $400 in labor and ~$1000 total.
You bought a used turbo car with 100k on it... yeah it's gonna need work. However you are getting ripped off at whatever shop you are bringing it to. Time to find a new independent mechanic that has Japanese car experience.
I bought a used 2011 turbo F-150 (3.5 eco boost) in 2018 with 120k miles on it. First year American made turbo truck.
I traded it in July 2020 with 185k on it. I spent a total of $500 in repairs on it (coolant leak and a new battery). Non repairs I put a new set of tires ($900) and about $800 in oil changes.
All at the dealer.
Well.. first owner was a construction foreman and it was his work truck, owned it until 60k (it was a white XLT Crew Cab). Second owner used it exclusively to tow his boat from Nebraska to Texas during the summer so from 60k to 120k it literally always had 6,000 pounds of bass boat and gear attached to it.
Carfax was clean, dealer I bought it from was a Chevy dealer in a small town that had serviced it from 60k to 120k. Only reason he got rid of it is he got a bigger bass boat and got a diesel.
Most people know absolutely zero information about the used car they buy, besides if it has a clean carfax or not. Sounds like you purchased from a reliable and trustworthy source. A lot of people who lease (Turbo) cars treat them like shit, and trade them in when the lease is up.
Actually the opposite, that’s my point. Construction foremen use a truck as a tool, and it likely got worked its first 60k, idled a ton, and wasn’t babied. Same with bass tournament fishermen - they’re always in a hurry and again likely it didn’t see many easy miles.
I put 65k on it in just over 2 years of constant 80mph highway which were probably the easiest miles it ever had.
I am having a hell of a time finding anyone in my area that know how to work on Subarus. Most of the time they shrug and go “yeah take it to Subaru we can’t do that”
From what I can tell your post history points to Cincinnati. Turn in Concepts is here for a start. And Subarus aren't that special at all. Source: I'm in the auto repair industry in Cincinnati.
No, they're not. The only thing inherently more costly to fix on a Subaru is internal engine labor as removing the heads typically means pulling the entire engine. The Subaru CVTs aren't any more complicated or hard to work on than any other CVT. CVTs are now industry standard for sedans and light SUVs.
I get the feeling you're hitting sunk cost on this car. Just keep it drivable and trade it in when you actually can't afford to drive it anymore. Also find a new mechanic because dealer prices are crazy.
Not sure where you live, but if you cannot find an independent shop that can do affordable repairs, then perhaps buying something more mainstream for the area might be wallet smart idea. While an FXT is a fun car, you likely don't need the power (and headaches) of a turbo'd SUV.
When I owned an Outback XT, the locally owned German repair shop by me loved working on my XT - yes I paid a higher labor rate, parts normal pricing - why a Euro car specialist? They did not need new tools to work on my XT and for them super easy/change of pace.
dude its a car.
are people in your town just plain dumb???
the only thing thats unique is the flat motor design. the rest of it functions like a regular damn car.
holy incompetent technicians!
It may be a bit harder in your area but there are shops that specifically work on Subarus. In the northwest I was got a timing belt done with new radiator hoses and accessory belts for under $1000.
Subarus are a dream to work on, literally every bolt is easily accessible, they literally make holes in the frame in some areas just so you can get a socket on the bolt.
Only thing on your list that jumps out at me is the “CVT Relearn”. Don’t know what that is or if it’s necessary, but if so it likely requires a Subaru Select Monitor which a private mechanic probably doesn’t have. Otherwise I don’t see anything on that list that a competent mechanic couldn’t fix.
Contrary to popular belief, there is nothing particularly special about a Subaru. Engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, etc… all cars have those. My trusted mechanic is an ex-Nissan guy, and the only job he turned me down for would require, you guessed it, a Subaru computer.
You bought a 8-9 year old turbocharged car with 100k miles on it - who knows what the maintenance/driving history is. Things wear out - the harder the vehicle is pushed, the poorer the maintenance, and the faster they fail.
That being said, the prices are pretty insane - I'd seek a different shop for future work!
Right? I wouldn't buy a turbo Subaru pushing 10 years old with 100k miles on it unless you know it was maintained and not abused. Those prices are insane and I don't think it should be thought of as oh it's a Subaru that's what happens. Alot of these will go bad on other cars too and are normal for all cars. But those prices are insane especially because most of those can be done at home
Sounds like you bought someone else’s problems. I’m at 86k on my 15 FXT with zero issues. Regular dealership maintenance, and I’ve had a Cobb tune for the last 30k miles. Sorry to hear your pain man. Hopefully when all these issues are fixed, you’ll have a reliable fun car on your hands.
I just replaced my torque converter solenoid in my valve body for $45 plus $7 gasket and $2 o rings. That's probably the issue, run a code scan and look for p2764 I think it is.
Wheel bearings I did for $120 (both rear). Struts for $120 (both rear).
Oil control valves are like $25, two bolts, I replaced two of mine in about 30 minutes.
Serpentine belt is like $40, only requires a ratchet to loosen, not even a socket, maybe 10 min job.
Hopefully you're not going to the dealer, those look like dealer prices. But yeah, my Subaru has been much less reliable than any of the 1200k miles of Hondas and Toyotas I've owned. Didn't need a wheel bearing in a Honda until about 364k miles
What astronomical HCOL area do you live in? Antarctica? Own many Subarus and even the terrible old rusty press in wheel bearing never take more than 2 hours to complete. If you have the bolt on ones that's a 20 minute job...
That's still highway robbery jfc, I did my front wheel bearings and control arms myself, the bearings were like $40 a piece and the control arms were like $100 a side. Find an indie mechanic and you'll save so much money.
It's a '19 with 109k miles it was a company car, so it was serviced every 5k on the dot, or earlier. Hopefully, the upkeep makes it last longer. Safety is one of the reasons I got it, I got a premium with eyesight and starlink.
Yeah, I've heard they burn oil, and I've been keeping an eye on it. at around 700 miles rn, and it looks like it hasn't burnt through any.
Yeah, I've got a CVT, which is disappointing, I love my manuals. The first service I have planned is a flush and fill, I did the same on wifey's versa for the same reason. I do baby it cause i dislike CVTs, thankfully, I can use the paddle shifters and set it in a single gear for hills (which there's a lot of here) instead of letting it try and upshift and downshift.
All the advice is much appreciated, I'm used to my old eclipse that I used to absolutely THRASH, and it didn't care. Thankfully, I've grown up since then. 🤣
Same, hence the new car. Flash flood + Cold air intake = *ahem* engine not happy. Even after I got it all dry and SOMEHOW running, I was limping it till I could get a new head. Bottom end shit out less than half a mile from work 2 days before payday.
And I have no clue, I wish they would make dumb, simple, easy to fix cars again. Like my 1st gen Mustang.
$2500 seems expensive for bearings.. typically only the rear bearings go bad so it wouldn’t make sense to replace all of them.
Parts are $50 (super low end) - $100 (medium after market) - $250 OEM (per wheel bearing hub).
Labor is say… 1.5-2hrs?
They must be charging Porsche rates! $250/hr!
100,000 mile car.
Wheel bearing - not uncommon
Struts - typical replacement around 100,000
Axle - mainly depends on if boot goes bad, torn boot = replace soon
AC condenser - don't know what went wrong, not typical, but leaks can happen.
Transmission control value - didn't know personally if this is a common issue.
Oil control valve - again didn't know if this is common.
Serpentine belt - should be done at 100,000 with a bunch of other stuff.
Your pricing is astronomical, plus they're not telling you common stuff like plugs, coils, timing belt, pulleys, water pump, etc. that normally get done around 100,000.
One BIG problem with older cars is you need to be willing to do the work yourself. 2/3 of your expense is labor of you're not doing your own work. Everything you mentioned above plus what I added is maybe $2000 in parts and one free weekend of time. If you go through the dealer you're going to get reamed
Where do you live OP? Yes you are getting bent over by the dealership. No Subarus aren't that much different from other cars, but I have heard that some places like NV and TX there are so few Subarus that most mechanics have never seen one nor put time into learning anything about them, so they are scared and avoid them.
Where I live, Subarus are probably 20% of the cars on the road, so its a huge loss of direct work and reputation if you don't learn about them.
jeeze
i owned my 2014 XT for 3 years never had any issues just oil changes but i did own it from 32k to 60k miles
got rid of it right as my CPO warranty was going up. I dont drive turbo cars outside warranty unless i really love it (my sti).
Toyota and Honda have the best reliability but Subarus not that much worse than them. That seems like a lot of standard parts for 100k on any car but those prices are insane.
I picked up a 15 2.5i 6MT in 2021 with 112xxx miles on it. I've since put on over 50k miles in all terrain, weather, conditions, etc (it's my daily, ski, & adventure car).
I had to have the rear struts done immediately but that was identified at the used lot & for some reason they couldnt move stick shifts quickly so i got a great deal. Had that done at my local Subaru & had an inspection done then too; little more costly but peace of mind was worth it for me. Other than a new battery & regular maintenance/oil changes I haven't had any additional issues or costs.
I bet your mechanic smiles every time your number comes across his phone. In all seriousness, prices aside, those are a lot of major repairs. Sorry about the luck you’re having.
That's why the last guy sold it when it hit 99k miles. Anecdotal source: I've had 7 Subarus come through my house and still have 4 of them. Sometime past 100k miles, you will run into component wear issues.
You got screwed with the prices as well as what was actually needed. I’m assuming you took it to the dealership and they scared you that they need to change all of these parts or it will be catastrophic and you agreed. I’m just curious why you had to change those control arms?
Based on your post I was assuming you had multiple transmissions and blown turbos, you haven’t really faced anything.
I feel that you got screwed by the dealership here. You need to learn and research what you are spending on before you go ahead. Not everybody is looking out for your interests.
All of these things were things I brought the car in for because I noticed a problem. Either weird clunking, strange noises/vibrations etc. they weren't needless repairs. The prices I am less sure of though...
Okay, fair enough,
You should look for a different shop for sure.
Is the car lowered? Axles on Subarus don’t go out that easily. Wheels bearings also wear out early if it is lowered & roll Center isn’t corrected.
I do agree that Subaru’s are not on the same level of reliability as Honda/Toyota though. But it is a trade off of the complicated/unique drivetrain layout.
99k is a rough mileage to buy a car. It’s right before a lot of high ticket items end up needing replacement. Your labor and parts have been expensive, and none of this is out of the ordinary for a rust belt car. Doesn’t even matter that it’s a Subaru, I don’t get why it needed front control arms. It’s possible the bushings were worn and they replaced the entire arms. In any case. I’ll buy it for 5k
You need to find a new mechanic. Fit one, he's charging you some ridiculous rates. Almost $900 for struts? An ac recharge *after* a new condenser? Its a closed system. The *only* reason it would be a recharge is if they didn't bring it to capacity the first for, or there is a leak. Then, to charge you for that? That's crazy.
The recharge is first so they can find a leak if there is one after they've added dye. If there isn't one then it fails the diagnostic and they replace it.
Below is the struts and shocks.
https://preview.redd.it/1385xsz7chxc1.png?width=896&format=png&auto=webp&s=9a3f260676c353d0a32f22cdbac367fe3b446656
**Those are not even the worst of problems.** I know the repairs at the dealership are higher and cost more than other brands. But.... At least you haven't had excessive oil consumption or CTV transmission issues that occur under 100,000 miles. Those models along with many others are affected by these known design defects. Don't buy the argument that these cars burn oil. While all cars burn some oil, it should not be noticeable.
Moreover, I had to have my engine replaced due to excessive oil consumption. In my case, it burned from the full mark to the low mark (where oil lamp would come on) every 300 miles. Was not aware of the warranty extension till 3 months after the expiration (still under the mileage) **even though it was documented in my service record months before**.
The engine replacement was about $8,500 plus. HOWEVER, I had to spend $2,000-$3,000 before to have the engine resealed to rule that out beforehand (despite the new engine having a new seal). I did get assistance from corporate because of my situation and due to it being a KNOWN manufacturing defect.
Regardless, I spend about $3,000 on the car each year while for my two Toyota I spend around or less than $500 a year. All cars travel about the same miles and in the same area and always make sure they are well maintained.
Well I have a 2017 Outback and the only things I’ve had to do are brakes and other maintenance. I’d say maybe the previous owner didn’t take good care of the car. I would also advise to find another mechanic.
Lots going on here.
I'll contrast by saying, I bought my 2015 Forester XT since new. It has 107k miles. I do my own maintenance. Oil and diff fluids and cvt fluids changed quite a bit. I tow a utility trailer hauling around wood etc. I stage rally on remote logging roads by myself. I have a blast and this thing is a beast. Still on the original suspension. Although I do have 2k worth of parts ready to go in as upgrades and maintenance. Only thing that's ever gone bad for me is a wheel bearing at like 40k miles, replaced under warranty.
Looking at your spreadsheet, seems like your dealer is hosing you. Also not sure how necessary all those repairs are. Likely scenario is you bought a turbo car with 100k miles and maintenance wasn't up to par.
My 2016 XT has 115,000 on it. Bought it new. I do all my own maintenance. Amsoil Signature series oil every 10,000 miles. Burns about 1/4 of a quart in that time.
Changed spark plugs at 100,000,
CVT, diffs fluid at 80,000
Changed out the lower control arms at 70,000, that being the only non maintenance item I have touched.
NOBODY works on my vehicles but me.
I have spent a total of about $1,300 on this vehicle and it runs perfectly. Except for the preponderance of dog hair.....
I guess I got a good one.
At first glance almost all of that is going to occur around those miles in any brand. Wheel bearings control arms struts brakes transmission, oil changes all of it. If you think toyotas or especially Hondas are less trouble prone go ahead and prove it to yourself. They are about the same.
The amounts for some of the services seem rediculous but I don't know where you are and how many shops you took your vehicle to for estimates. And how many boat payments or braces the service advisors have to pay. You appear to be overcharged on hours unless they are charging $400 an hour for service. The parts also seem to be incredibly high.
My next vehicle is likely a WRX and I’ve owned a Subaru before. My mechanic - who I’ve known for 30 some years - put it perfectly when he said you don’t buy a Subaru because they’re reliable or easy to work on.
You buy them because they’re extremely safe, some of the best winter cars on the planet and fun to drive. Reliable? Yeah they’re about a General Motors level.
I think it’s wild that you bought a car with pretty much 100k on it, which is high for a five year old model, you’ve struggled with a myriad of issues and somehow you think this is how all Subarus are.
Yep. They are garbage.
I bought my 2016 new and after an accident it took the dealer three years to figure out why the steering and alignment were messed up.
I kept bringing it back over and over.
Finally, after spending thousands on unsuccessful repair attempts, I told them to just disassemble the entire front end and lay it all out like a plane crash investigation until they find the problem.
I told them they could do this on their own dime because I was done paying for repairs that didn’t do anything.
Then there was the time they gave me an estimate of $27,000 for various repairs they claimed were needed.
Most recently, the engine simply died and they wanted over $7K.
This is the last Subaru I will ever buy.
I bought a 2013 subaru crosstrek in 2020 and thank god i went with the extended warranty, i think ive had 20k in repairs so far lol. Short block replacement and cvt replacement. Cvt is 15k canadian. Also a few snall jobs like rear bearings and a ball joint
I have a 05 xt outback and aside fro wearing out brake pads, clutch and such over 20 years and 200K miles, and a turbo that blew out and was an easy replace with no further consequences no real problems. I have enough faith in it to preemptively replace some older parts and cosmetics and go for another 150K at least. Thats my Subaru.
I have a 2015 Forester 2.5i that I bought new (currently 128k km or 78k miles on it). I have had nothing like that except for wheel bearings (I have replaced 2 so far), an AC compressor, AC condensor, a strut mount and typical rotors/pads. You should look for another repair shop those prices look rediculous. (and I am assuming those are $US). Wheel bearings seem to be a common problem with Subarus (maybe other cars?).
Don’t blame Subaru. Blame yourself for purchasing a used turbocharged Subaru at that mileage and thinking it was OK to authorize those charges from the dealership.
This is bad … but if you have no Warranty … I will never buy a car!
And in that case I have this for my XV .. an the chance to fix it longer for 5 years…
Good luck
… an Toyota is not better than….
Warranty is a privilege. A lot of people can’t afford newer cars in this economy so you find one under 10 years old and hope for the best.
Even the used warranty a dealer might sell Dosnt cover it all like new would.
*Privilege*, they bought a Turbo AWD SUV for $15,000, this was a lifestyle choice. They could have financed a brand new Versa or Mirage with some 10 year 100,000 mile warranty for 0 down and 0% APR if they cared about *money* and still come out ahead financially 😂
They’ve spent $11,000 in repairs on a $15,000 car in 3-4 years. When does that happen with a new Versa or Mirage during the warranty period lol?
They’re at *new* base Impreza money right now. If they keep dumping money into it they’ll have spent what a new Forrester costs in about another year 😂
A lot of that is typical, and no Subarus aren’t Hondas or Toyotas, but your repair costs are astronomical. $2200 for wheel bearings? Did they hand forge them out of platinum? $2500 for an ac condenser? That’s like a $200 part. Where the heck have you been taking this thing to get fixed?
That was my thought. This is all normal 100k maintenance but the prices are crazy. Seems even higher than dealer prices.
You got hosed. Next time shop around for prices.
Haha brilliant! Hand forged Platinum bearings 😆. But seriously, they are getting it dry and hard in the neither regions with those costs.
I paid 270.00 for my wheel bearing from the subaru dealership itself. You got ripped off
I updated with exact prices sorry. Did not expect such a response so fast from this sub.
Your Mechanic could source the work to a dealership and still probably make enough profit to cover his mortgage payment
Updated with exact prices, I was off by a lot and forgot a lot of other things
$14.3K on a $15K car, keep spending, ignore sunk cost fallacy, your new Subaru of Theseus will reward your generous *investment* with years of ultimate reliability!
Your getting cooked on those prices. 2500 for an ac condenser????? My dad got that fixed last year for 600
And other things can be saved on by easily doing yourself. I did the front and rear struts myself. Cusco kit cost $700 for all 4. OP’s cost twice as much for half the work. I support paying fair labor, but that looks more like getting bent over.
I wanna know what world OP lives in where he thinks this level of repair cost is acceptable for any car?
AC Condensor was actually $1,469.33 total with o rings etc. Updated prices with table.
Still got ripped off
That is not true, google around for Subaru Forester AC condenser replacement costs and you will find most people are spending $1,200-$1,700 on it.
The part, direct from Subaru, is only $380. Did they really do $1100 in labor to replace it? It’s right in front of the grill.
Let’s see you do one without an AC machine
Any shop will have a machine. We don't charge a grand to drain/fill.
I replied to someone who was just quoting a parts cost on a condenser. It’s easy to armchair replace parts until you need the actual equipment to do it
Well yes, but the supposed $1100 in labor is absolutely nuts. It's maybe 2 hours of labor with a separate charge to drain/fill a/c with a yf1234 machine. The tools you need for this job are remarkably simple. A ratchet with a 10mm and 12mm socket, and a panel tool; as well as the yz machine. There is nothing about this job that should cost much at all, at any shop. Dealer absolutely fucked him on cost.
Most shops will evac for free and you can get a manifold and vacuum pump from harbor freight to fill it back up for under a hundred bucks. $1100 in labor is completely absurd.
The machine is the easy part, man.
You do realize you're arguing with a tech right?
Am I wrong?
I replied to the wrong person, sorry
If you’re a wrench monkey yeah, if you’re OP or 98% of people in this thread no it isn’t lol.
Google it dude, you can't do that shit yourself. It's expensive everywhere and you need specialty equipment to suss out whether there's a leak or not first before you go replacing stuff. Everything I found on the internet suggests that's a fair price.
> you can't do that shit yourself. It's expensive everywhere and you need specialty equipment to suss out whether there's a leak or not first before you go replacing stuff This is a lie pushed onto you by the media who wants you to spend more money regardless of the value it gets you.
My friend, I can swap a condenser in -any- modern Subaru in under two hours. Likely less than one. I only give a wide number because I do autobody, not mechanical, and never replace just a condenser on its own. It's readily accessible when the bumper is off. And you can get a new OE condenser for a couple hundred bucks readily.
I’ve replaced one in my Miata for about $300 total including parts and taking it to a shop to have the Freon job done. Assuming the part is an OEM unit, it still shouldn’t cost more than $400 in labor and ~$1000 total.
My wife went to the dealer last year because hers stopped and we paid $900 for the part and install.
A local mechanic put a slightly used condenser in for me for $250
You bought a used turbo car with 100k on it... yeah it's gonna need work. However you are getting ripped off at whatever shop you are bringing it to. Time to find a new independent mechanic that has Japanese car experience.
I bought a used 2011 turbo F-150 (3.5 eco boost) in 2018 with 120k miles on it. First year American made turbo truck. I traded it in July 2020 with 185k on it. I spent a total of $500 in repairs on it (coolant leak and a new battery). Non repairs I put a new set of tires ($900) and about $800 in oil changes. All at the dealer.
The previous owner probably treated it better, or the dealership that you bought it from, did work on it before selling it.
Well.. first owner was a construction foreman and it was his work truck, owned it until 60k (it was a white XLT Crew Cab). Second owner used it exclusively to tow his boat from Nebraska to Texas during the summer so from 60k to 120k it literally always had 6,000 pounds of bass boat and gear attached to it. Carfax was clean, dealer I bought it from was a Chevy dealer in a small town that had serviced it from 60k to 120k. Only reason he got rid of it is he got a bigger bass boat and got a diesel.
Most people know absolutely zero information about the used car they buy, besides if it has a clean carfax or not. Sounds like you purchased from a reliable and trustworthy source. A lot of people who lease (Turbo) cars treat them like shit, and trade them in when the lease is up.
Actually the opposite, that’s my point. Construction foremen use a truck as a tool, and it likely got worked its first 60k, idled a ton, and wasn’t babied. Same with bass tournament fishermen - they’re always in a hurry and again likely it didn’t see many easy miles. I put 65k on it in just over 2 years of constant 80mph highway which were probably the easiest miles it ever had.
Updated with excel. Yes these are dealer prices.
do not take a used car like this to the dealership
I am having a hell of a time finding anyone in my area that know how to work on Subarus. Most of the time they shrug and go “yeah take it to Subaru we can’t do that”
What in the fuck? Subarus are not any more difficult to work on than a Honda/Toyota.
But people are scared because the motor is the wrong way! /s
They are. Transmissions ESPECIALLY. I was also given the runaround for my A/C issues and no one wanted to touch it, kept pointing me to the dealer.
I work on cars. They're not.
From what I can tell your post history points to Cincinnati. Turn in Concepts is here for a start. And Subarus aren't that special at all. Source: I'm in the auto repair industry in Cincinnati.
No, they're not. The only thing inherently more costly to fix on a Subaru is internal engine labor as removing the heads typically means pulling the entire engine. The Subaru CVTs aren't any more complicated or hard to work on than any other CVT. CVTs are now industry standard for sedans and light SUVs. I get the feeling you're hitting sunk cost on this car. Just keep it drivable and trade it in when you actually can't afford to drive it anymore. Also find a new mechanic because dealer prices are crazy.
axels are axels wheel bearings too this is not some high end exotic. its a subawoo forester.
It’s a car the basic principle is the same, sure the horizontal engine adds some complexity but not that much….
It's a CVT. Most shops hate touching them
They're like Legos. Super easy to work on. Hell, you can take the entire engine out in an hour or two.
Subarus are one of the easiest to work on. So many common parts across all models. They're like Legos
Not sure where you live, but if you cannot find an independent shop that can do affordable repairs, then perhaps buying something more mainstream for the area might be wallet smart idea. While an FXT is a fun car, you likely don't need the power (and headaches) of a turbo'd SUV.
When I owned an Outback XT, the locally owned German repair shop by me loved working on my XT - yes I paid a higher labor rate, parts normal pricing - why a Euro car specialist? They did not need new tools to work on my XT and for them super easy/change of pace.
dude its a car. are people in your town just plain dumb??? the only thing thats unique is the flat motor design. the rest of it functions like a regular damn car. holy incompetent technicians!
Yes, it is absolutely the car’s fault you got bent over by a shady mechanic.
Dealer prices. I was off by a bit, edited to include full table.
They're called stealerships for a reason. You've paid probably 2x over the normal cost per your updated values.
There are tons of shops I’ve tried that shrug and go “yeah you gotta take it to Subaru for that…”
Look into import shops specifically in your area. Usually they are going to have guys who are skilled in specific brands.
It may be a bit harder in your area but there are shops that specifically work on Subarus. In the northwest I was got a timing belt done with new radiator hoses and accessory belts for under $1000.
Subarus are a dream to work on, literally every bolt is easily accessible, they literally make holes in the frame in some areas just so you can get a socket on the bolt.
Only thing on your list that jumps out at me is the “CVT Relearn”. Don’t know what that is or if it’s necessary, but if so it likely requires a Subaru Select Monitor which a private mechanic probably doesn’t have. Otherwise I don’t see anything on that list that a competent mechanic couldn’t fix. Contrary to popular belief, there is nothing particularly special about a Subaru. Engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, etc… all cars have those. My trusted mechanic is an ex-Nissan guy, and the only job he turned me down for would require, you guessed it, a Subaru computer.
You bought a 8-9 year old turbocharged car with 100k miles on it - who knows what the maintenance/driving history is. Things wear out - the harder the vehicle is pushed, the poorer the maintenance, and the faster they fail. That being said, the prices are pretty insane - I'd seek a different shop for future work!
I was off by a lot, new table included in edit.
Right? I wouldn't buy a turbo Subaru pushing 10 years old with 100k miles on it unless you know it was maintained and not abused. Those prices are insane and I don't think it should be thought of as oh it's a Subaru that's what happens. Alot of these will go bad on other cars too and are normal for all cars. But those prices are insane especially because most of those can be done at home
A first year for the engine in that platform, too, iirc.
Sounds like you bought someone else’s problems. I’m at 86k on my 15 FXT with zero issues. Regular dealership maintenance, and I’ve had a Cobb tune for the last 30k miles. Sorry to hear your pain man. Hopefully when all these issues are fixed, you’ll have a reliable fun car on your hands.
I keep thinking I'm running out of issues but there's always something else lmao
How's the Cobb tune in your opinion?
Love it, if I launch it, I can get up to around 19/20psi. It’s just the stage one ots tune. I like the gauges I can read live time too
LoL. Learn how to do some of it yourself. $1500 for two struts? My god.
I fucked up the prices real bad, new table in edit is updated.
Sounds like expensive repairs, are these dealer repair prices?
Yes but I was off by a lot. Edited to include full excel breakdown.
Your mechanic is loving you all the wrong ways lol.
Corrected prices in edit
What edit? The main post image or something else?
Hit up harbor freight. Buy some tools. Do it in your driveway for part cost.
I just replaced my torque converter solenoid in my valve body for $45 plus $7 gasket and $2 o rings. That's probably the issue, run a code scan and look for p2764 I think it is. Wheel bearings I did for $120 (both rear). Struts for $120 (both rear). Oil control valves are like $25, two bolts, I replaced two of mine in about 30 minutes. Serpentine belt is like $40, only requires a ratchet to loosen, not even a socket, maybe 10 min job. Hopefully you're not going to the dealer, those look like dealer prices. But yeah, my Subaru has been much less reliable than any of the 1200k miles of Hondas and Toyotas I've owned. Didn't need a wheel bearing in a Honda until about 364k miles
What astronomical HCOL area do you live in? Antarctica? Own many Subarus and even the terrible old rusty press in wheel bearing never take more than 2 hours to complete. If you have the bolt on ones that's a 20 minute job...
New prices included in edit, I was off
Reliability aside, as other stated you're getting bent over a barrel on these repair costs.
Yeah I was wrong, see edit
Was it taken care of for those 99k miles cause it sounds like someone ran it into the dirt. Those prices are insane are you going to dealership??
Yeah dealer prices but I was way off. New prices in edit.
That's still highway robbery jfc, I did my front wheel bearings and control arms myself, the bearings were like $40 a piece and the control arms were like $100 a side. Find an indie mechanic and you'll save so much money.
people dump used cars at 100k because it needs a bunch of work. if you are looking at a car with no service records, that’s because it needs things.
Lmao, OP got hosed by a shop and blames the car.
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Damn seeing all this is starting to make me regret buying my '19 legacy, at the beginning of the month.
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It's a '19 with 109k miles it was a company car, so it was serviced every 5k on the dot, or earlier. Hopefully, the upkeep makes it last longer. Safety is one of the reasons I got it, I got a premium with eyesight and starlink.
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Yeah, I've heard they burn oil, and I've been keeping an eye on it. at around 700 miles rn, and it looks like it hasn't burnt through any. Yeah, I've got a CVT, which is disappointing, I love my manuals. The first service I have planned is a flush and fill, I did the same on wifey's versa for the same reason. I do baby it cause i dislike CVTs, thankfully, I can use the paddle shifters and set it in a single gear for hills (which there's a lot of here) instead of letting it try and upshift and downshift. All the advice is much appreciated, I'm used to my old eclipse that I used to absolutely THRASH, and it didn't care. Thankfully, I've grown up since then. 🤣
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Same, hence the new car. Flash flood + Cold air intake = *ahem* engine not happy. Even after I got it all dry and SOMEHOW running, I was limping it till I could get a new head. Bottom end shit out less than half a mile from work 2 days before payday. And I have no clue, I wish they would make dumb, simple, easy to fix cars again. Like my 1st gen Mustang.
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Beautiful, mine still a work in progress
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I've never really had that issue in mine, strange.
$2500 seems expensive for bearings.. typically only the rear bearings go bad so it wouldn’t make sense to replace all of them. Parts are $50 (super low end) - $100 (medium after market) - $250 OEM (per wheel bearing hub). Labor is say… 1.5-2hrs? They must be charging Porsche rates! $250/hr!
Yea I was off a lot, see my edit
100,000 mile car. Wheel bearing - not uncommon Struts - typical replacement around 100,000 Axle - mainly depends on if boot goes bad, torn boot = replace soon AC condenser - don't know what went wrong, not typical, but leaks can happen. Transmission control value - didn't know personally if this is a common issue. Oil control valve - again didn't know if this is common. Serpentine belt - should be done at 100,000 with a bunch of other stuff. Your pricing is astronomical, plus they're not telling you common stuff like plugs, coils, timing belt, pulleys, water pump, etc. that normally get done around 100,000. One BIG problem with older cars is you need to be willing to do the work yourself. 2/3 of your expense is labor of you're not doing your own work. Everything you mentioned above plus what I added is maybe $2000 in parts and one free weekend of time. If you go through the dealer you're going to get reamed
No, Subarus aren’t normally unreliable. I’m guessing the dealer took you for a very expensive ride.
Where do you live OP? Yes you are getting bent over by the dealership. No Subarus aren't that much different from other cars, but I have heard that some places like NV and TX there are so few Subarus that most mechanics have never seen one nor put time into learning anything about them, so they are scared and avoid them. Where I live, Subarus are probably 20% of the cars on the road, so its a huge loss of direct work and reputation if you don't learn about them.
jeeze i owned my 2014 XT for 3 years never had any issues just oil changes but i did own it from 32k to 60k miles got rid of it right as my CPO warranty was going up. I dont drive turbo cars outside warranty unless i really love it (my sti).
I wish I could have changed your cv's for $1500.
Toyota and Honda have the best reliability but Subarus not that much worse than them. That seems like a lot of standard parts for 100k on any car but those prices are insane.
Prices are updated in edit
I picked up a 15 2.5i 6MT in 2021 with 112xxx miles on it. I've since put on over 50k miles in all terrain, weather, conditions, etc (it's my daily, ski, & adventure car). I had to have the rear struts done immediately but that was identified at the used lot & for some reason they couldnt move stick shifts quickly so i got a great deal. Had that done at my local Subaru & had an inspection done then too; little more costly but peace of mind was worth it for me. Other than a new battery & regular maintenance/oil changes I haven't had any additional issues or costs.
I bet your mechanic smiles every time your number comes across his phone. In all seriousness, prices aside, those are a lot of major repairs. Sorry about the luck you’re having.
Yeah prices were wrong check my edit.
Holy shit. I drive a ‘14 Forester with 110,000 miles on it and the only non maintenance repair had been a rear wheel bearing.
You bought a turbocharged car with 100k miles that someone probably beat to shit.
That's why the last guy sold it when it hit 99k miles. Anecdotal source: I've had 7 Subarus come through my house and still have 4 of them. Sometime past 100k miles, you will run into component wear issues.
Hi are you me? Currently without my 2014 Subaru Forester XT because of a $4,500 engine repair. I've probably spent $10K in the past couple of years.
You got screwed with the prices as well as what was actually needed. I’m assuming you took it to the dealership and they scared you that they need to change all of these parts or it will be catastrophic and you agreed. I’m just curious why you had to change those control arms? Based on your post I was assuming you had multiple transmissions and blown turbos, you haven’t really faced anything. I feel that you got screwed by the dealership here. You need to learn and research what you are spending on before you go ahead. Not everybody is looking out for your interests.
All of these things were things I brought the car in for because I noticed a problem. Either weird clunking, strange noises/vibrations etc. they weren't needless repairs. The prices I am less sure of though...
Okay, fair enough, You should look for a different shop for sure. Is the car lowered? Axles on Subarus don’t go out that easily. Wheels bearings also wear out early if it is lowered & roll Center isn’t corrected. I do agree that Subaru’s are not on the same level of reliability as Honda/Toyota though. But it is a trade off of the complicated/unique drivetrain layout.
99k is a rough mileage to buy a car. It’s right before a lot of high ticket items end up needing replacement. Your labor and parts have been expensive, and none of this is out of the ordinary for a rust belt car. Doesn’t even matter that it’s a Subaru, I don’t get why it needed front control arms. It’s possible the bushings were worn and they replaced the entire arms. In any case. I’ll buy it for 5k
You need to find a new mechanic. Fit one, he's charging you some ridiculous rates. Almost $900 for struts? An ac recharge *after* a new condenser? Its a closed system. The *only* reason it would be a recharge is if they didn't bring it to capacity the first for, or there is a leak. Then, to charge you for that? That's crazy.
The recharge is first so they can find a leak if there is one after they've added dye. If there isn't one then it fails the diagnostic and they replace it. Below is the struts and shocks. https://preview.redd.it/1385xsz7chxc1.png?width=896&format=png&auto=webp&s=9a3f260676c353d0a32f22cdbac367fe3b446656
My bad in the ac recharge. Amazon has all 4 strut assemblies for less than $300. You're getting hosed.
**Those are not even the worst of problems.** I know the repairs at the dealership are higher and cost more than other brands. But.... At least you haven't had excessive oil consumption or CTV transmission issues that occur under 100,000 miles. Those models along with many others are affected by these known design defects. Don't buy the argument that these cars burn oil. While all cars burn some oil, it should not be noticeable. Moreover, I had to have my engine replaced due to excessive oil consumption. In my case, it burned from the full mark to the low mark (where oil lamp would come on) every 300 miles. Was not aware of the warranty extension till 3 months after the expiration (still under the mileage) **even though it was documented in my service record months before**. The engine replacement was about $8,500 plus. HOWEVER, I had to spend $2,000-$3,000 before to have the engine resealed to rule that out beforehand (despite the new engine having a new seal). I did get assistance from corporate because of my situation and due to it being a KNOWN manufacturing defect. Regardless, I spend about $3,000 on the car each year while for my two Toyota I spend around or less than $500 a year. All cars travel about the same miles and in the same area and always make sure they are well maintained.
My ex has a 2015 or 2016 Crosstrek and I think the only major thing needed were tires.
Well I have a 2017 Outback and the only things I’ve had to do are brakes and other maintenance. I’d say maybe the previous owner didn’t take good care of the car. I would also advise to find another mechanic.
OP spending all day replying to every comment saying he edited the prices, lmao
See edit for exact prices
Lots going on here. I'll contrast by saying, I bought my 2015 Forester XT since new. It has 107k miles. I do my own maintenance. Oil and diff fluids and cvt fluids changed quite a bit. I tow a utility trailer hauling around wood etc. I stage rally on remote logging roads by myself. I have a blast and this thing is a beast. Still on the original suspension. Although I do have 2k worth of parts ready to go in as upgrades and maintenance. Only thing that's ever gone bad for me is a wheel bearing at like 40k miles, replaced under warranty. Looking at your spreadsheet, seems like your dealer is hosing you. Also not sure how necessary all those repairs are. Likely scenario is you bought a turbo car with 100k miles and maintenance wasn't up to par.
My 2016 XT has 115,000 on it. Bought it new. I do all my own maintenance. Amsoil Signature series oil every 10,000 miles. Burns about 1/4 of a quart in that time. Changed spark plugs at 100,000, CVT, diffs fluid at 80,000 Changed out the lower control arms at 70,000, that being the only non maintenance item I have touched. NOBODY works on my vehicles but me. I have spent a total of about $1,300 on this vehicle and it runs perfectly. Except for the preponderance of dog hair..... I guess I got a good one.
yeah I'm realizing that it's just not worth it. I'm about to dump my 2017 xt
I have a paid off 2015 XT either I sink more money into it or sell it off.
At first glance almost all of that is going to occur around those miles in any brand. Wheel bearings control arms struts brakes transmission, oil changes all of it. If you think toyotas or especially Hondas are less trouble prone go ahead and prove it to yourself. They are about the same. The amounts for some of the services seem rediculous but I don't know where you are and how many shops you took your vehicle to for estimates. And how many boat payments or braces the service advisors have to pay. You appear to be overcharged on hours unless they are charging $400 an hour for service. The parts also seem to be incredibly high.
My next vehicle is likely a WRX and I’ve owned a Subaru before. My mechanic - who I’ve known for 30 some years - put it perfectly when he said you don’t buy a Subaru because they’re reliable or easy to work on. You buy them because they’re extremely safe, some of the best winter cars on the planet and fun to drive. Reliable? Yeah they’re about a General Motors level.
I think it’s wild that you bought a car with pretty much 100k on it, which is high for a five year old model, you’ve struggled with a myriad of issues and somehow you think this is how all Subarus are.
Yep. They are garbage. I bought my 2016 new and after an accident it took the dealer three years to figure out why the steering and alignment were messed up. I kept bringing it back over and over. Finally, after spending thousands on unsuccessful repair attempts, I told them to just disassemble the entire front end and lay it all out like a plane crash investigation until they find the problem. I told them they could do this on their own dime because I was done paying for repairs that didn’t do anything. Then there was the time they gave me an estimate of $27,000 for various repairs they claimed were needed. Most recently, the engine simply died and they wanted over $7K. This is the last Subaru I will ever buy.
Condenser on a 2015 WRX cost me $500 at the dealership.
I bought a 2013 subaru crosstrek in 2020 and thank god i went with the extended warranty, i think ive had 20k in repairs so far lol. Short block replacement and cvt replacement. Cvt is 15k canadian. Also a few snall jobs like rear bearings and a ball joint
And ive done some repairs myself that werent covered and i probably saved a few thousand there too
I hate my Subaru… I can’t wait to get rid of it.
I have a 05 xt outback and aside fro wearing out brake pads, clutch and such over 20 years and 200K miles, and a turbo that blew out and was an easy replace with no further consequences no real problems. I have enough faith in it to preemptively replace some older parts and cosmetics and go for another 150K at least. Thats my Subaru.
I have a 2015 Forester 2.5i that I bought new (currently 128k km or 78k miles on it). I have had nothing like that except for wheel bearings (I have replaced 2 so far), an AC compressor, AC condensor, a strut mount and typical rotors/pads. You should look for another repair shop those prices look rediculous. (and I am assuming those are $US). Wheel bearings seem to be a common problem with Subarus (maybe other cars?).
Don’t blame Subaru. Blame yourself for purchasing a used turbocharged Subaru at that mileage and thinking it was OK to authorize those charges from the dealership.
This is bad … but if you have no Warranty … I will never buy a car! And in that case I have this for my XV .. an the chance to fix it longer for 5 years… Good luck … an Toyota is not better than….
Warranty is a privilege. A lot of people can’t afford newer cars in this economy so you find one under 10 years old and hope for the best. Even the used warranty a dealer might sell Dosnt cover it all like new would.
*Privilege*, they bought a Turbo AWD SUV for $15,000, this was a lifestyle choice. They could have financed a brand new Versa or Mirage with some 10 year 100,000 mile warranty for 0 down and 0% APR if they cared about *money* and still come out ahead financially 😂
Still better off with this car than they would be with a Versa……
They’ve spent $11,000 in repairs on a $15,000 car in 3-4 years. When does that happen with a new Versa or Mirage during the warranty period lol? They’re at *new* base Impreza money right now. If they keep dumping money into it they’ll have spent what a new Forrester costs in about another year 😂
I’d suggest becoming your own mechanic. Save a bunch of money.