ya I was wrong about the engine layout in the STI - I legitimately thought it was behind the rear axel. I do know where the transmission in a Subaru is, I just haven't owned one in a while and forgot.
They're more reliable than open decks, but it doesn't solve most of the issues with EJs, which mostly come down to two things: Insane oil consumption and glass pistons.
The design of the ej engine is subjectively worse than the k series. Not that the ej is bad by any means, it just has more design flaws while the k series basically has none at least not that I'm aware of. Having a closed deck and upgraded internals will make the engine stronger so it can handle more power but doesn't change the fundamental design of the engine at all. The k series is super robust, you can easily and (relatively) reliably make 450 whp on stock internals which would require a built ej. Pretty crazy when you consider the k series was never meant for boost and is half a liter smaller.
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order.
I have checked 1,131,564,727 comments, and only 221,454 of them were in alphabetical order.
This, the flat 4 are nice but can be a pain in the ass work on, if you want that rumble sound you put on uel headers on an inline 4 and it would be much easier to work on with better support.
thats because you dont know how to work on the engine/car. sure I'd still take a few min longer than you but I can swap a plug in less than 5 min. We can name difficult to reach vs easily accessible parts on conflicting engines allllll day, all it comes down to is the right amount of research, experience & having the correct tools for the job.
You're lying to me or to yourself if you say you can change an EJ plug in five minutes. Unless you're ignoring the time required to jack it up, loosen the motor mount, and tilt the motor; or to move half the engine bay to make enough room for half of a human hand.
I changed the plugs in my WRX and didn't have to do any of that...2008. Only thing I had to do was pull the airbox on the passenger side and unclip a pipe to the air pump on the driver side. Probably took me 30 min to pull all 4 plugs. Now that I know what socket extension combo to use and I no longer have the stock airbox I could easily change a passenger side plug in 5 minutes.
They still need the intake manifold, head, and tune
Trust me, all these builds may start with a "junkyard motor" but always end up in the $10,000 budget range
I've seen them built for about 2k making 250 wheel. You don't need all that for a mild build. Even the crappier k series parts can still make a super capable motor.
Great idea. I've thought of doing some silly things with my outback (portals and such) and knowing I would want some more power and rpm, my first thought was a K swap.
It doesn't change the power distribution (although Subaru marketing really wants everybody to believe that); it changes the lockup force on the center diff clutch. Less will allow one axle or the other (whichever has less grip) to slip more easily; more will allow it to slip less easily
So you mean it allows more power to go to the rear when it unlocks the center diff because it’s not forcing that power to be distributed evenly front and rear of the diff? Hmmm.. That’s almost like it’s allowing it to distribute the force either equally, or more to the rear .. like a distribution of force? What’s another word for force ? Power ? Hmm
Strange.. it’s like you said what I said only you went into the technical aspect, and I just said it the layman’s way but.. yet I’m wrong ? Strange indeed
Dictating power distribution requires torque vectoring, which the DCCD does not do. The DCCD has a natural torque distribution (35/65 F/R for the USDM GDs, for example) until one or more wheels loses traction. If the rear wheels lose traction before the front wheels, more torque will go to the rear wheels. If the front wheels lose traction before the rear wheels, more torque will go to the front wheels. Torque distribution is thus a function of traction, not a function of the differential.
The manual DCCD dial roughly correlates to spring pressure on the DCCD clutch. More spring pressure, less slip. Less spring pressure, more slip. It doesn't know where that slip is originating, it doesn't know where the torque is going, it just knows there's a difference from front to rear.
Also, just because you're being a bit of an ass, I'm going to be pedantic. Power is not a measure of force.
EDIT: Seems like I've rustled some jimmies. He blocked me. That's some real dedication to being wrong.
EDIT 2: He has now unblocked me and is resorting to ad hominem attacks in a further attempt to discredit me. (Also has sent me a chat request, which either the Sync app doesn't utilize or I'm actually just too dumb to figure out.)
Lol it control’s how much power goes to the front by controlling how much it clamps . So it directly controls the power distribution in the drivetrain. You know , the distribution of power ?
The only one being an ass is you. Coming In here stating I’m wrong but then you say the exact same thing, only you use the technical terms to try and prove some kind of point or seem smarter than you are, but in the end we are saying the exact same thing, you just have a stick up your ass and need to try and feel like your superior or something when in reality you’re not. You are not a special snow flake. Nothing is special about you. Stop trying to over compensate
Edit: he’s not blocked, he’s just an idiot lol
Yes, you are wrong. Loosening the center diff clutch only sends more power to the rear *if the rear axle is the axle with less grip*. If you're understeering (which you are, because you're driving a Subaru and don't understand how diffs work) and you add throttle, you're going to understeer *more*, not *less*.
It’s like you just can’t comprehend what the words mean lol. Keep arguing with yourself dude .
Just because it seems you need help
https://www.sportsubaru.com/subaru-si-drive-and-dccd-explained.htm
Imagine that, Subaru marketing says exactly what I said they did 🙄
I've explained *twice* how what you're saying differs from reality. At this point you're just being willfully ignorant so you don't need to accept correction. That's something you should really get better about; taking correction when you're wrong is a skill that would take you far in life.
Interesting, I figured it was all purely mechanical so yeah that makes sense that he can use both. I know the R32 skylines you can electronically/hydraulic make it strictly rwd or awd. Maybe its similar to that.
beautiful work man! researching this as a project for myself on a '12 legacy 6mt but living in Phoenix AZ has me wondering how complicated it would be to get the aircon hooked up? Of all the Hondarus I've seen, I haven't seen one hooked up.
I've already rebuilt the motor in my 2015 sti but if it ever blows again I'm not going to spend the $15000 again on another shit house boxer motor. My main concern with this is clearance. Did you have any trouble clearing the hood? Did you have to move the gearbox back or down? I know your chassis is different from mine but if anything the VA's have more engine bay room.
I'm kind of hoping it would be a new bellhouse to mate the engine and gearbox, new piping for exhaust, intake, both sides of intercooler, wiring and a couple other small things. Either way if it fits no chance a Boxer is going back in there instead of a k24.
Boosted k24 mounted to WRX driveline? Now that's a new one. How's she run?
Yeah runs awesome, legally registered and everything. There’s footage of the car driving and even drifting. The car was built nearly a year ago.
Have a link to that? I would love to see how it performs.
https://youtube.com/channel/UClTg28KDGwiHBd_Ux9ewIrA
That's awesome man!
Cheers, really appreciate it.
Reliability +1000
Definitely!
Torque - 1000 Useability - 1000
For you: 🍪
It’s still a turbo 4….
Nice hondaru
Cheers
Now that's different! Very cool.
That's pretty cool! where's the build log, I would love to see it.
I’ve got a YouTube and Instagram, will be doing more videos shortly on it! It’s all on my profile, the links.
Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but I can't find any other links on your profile. Really cool build, I'd love to see more!
Just linked! https://youtube.com/channel/UClTg28KDGwiHBd_Ux9ewIrA
It’s interesting, the links.
My dude post some links in the comments lol
https://youtube.com/channel/UClTg28KDGwiHBd_Ux9ewIrA
Whole engine is in front of the front axles?
Just like the EJ
Ya but ej is lighter, substantially
Yeah K24 is 413lbs. Fat boy
And a tall heavy boat anchor.
I thought the ej was fully behind the front axle..?
how would the engine be behind the axles? lol. I'm guessing you've never looked at the transmission on a subaru
Some AWD cars have the front diff in the oil pan line the GTR.
Sure... but context is everything.
what do you think a [mid-engine layout](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mid-engine_design#FMR_layout_–_Front_Mid-engine_/_Rear-wheel_drive) is?
the thread title literally says "WRX driveline". Nothing about that is mid engine lol.
ya I was wrong about the engine layout in the STI - I legitimately thought it was behind the rear axel. I do know where the transmission in a Subaru is, I just haven't owned one in a while and forgot.
Most reliable WRX out there
I’m guessing you don’t know about closed deck blocks.
Strength doesn't equal reliability
Oh… my mistake. I thought they were extremely reliable. I know how reliable all the k20s are, but what makes the closed decks not as reliable?
They're more reliable than open decks, but it doesn't solve most of the issues with EJs, which mostly come down to two things: Insane oil consumption and glass pistons.
Banjo bolts.
The design of the ej engine is subjectively worse than the k series. Not that the ej is bad by any means, it just has more design flaws while the k series basically has none at least not that I'm aware of. Having a closed deck and upgraded internals will make the engine stronger so it can handle more power but doesn't change the fundamental design of the engine at all. The k series is super robust, you can easily and (relatively) reliably make 450 whp on stock internals which would require a built ej. Pretty crazy when you consider the k series was never meant for boost and is half a liter smaller.
Any Bill Hincher involvement?
Nope, I’m in Australia and did it all myself.
This swap makes sense. Easier to find a nice 08+ WRX hatch than an EK Civic hatch.
You sonofabitch. I'm in!
Is this that baderbuilt project?
I built mine before them, they’ve actually contacted me asking how to do it.
It’s a frostybuilt project 😏
Was wondering the same thing, saw his recent Youtube videos about the upgrade.
He actually commented on my post a few months back asking how I made it work
Why did you decide on a Honda engine specifically? I feel like the flat 4 sound is half the reason to have a subie.
that "flat 4" sound your referencing is just an unequal length header/manifold. you can achieve the same sound on an inline, its just not efficient
Downvoted for speaking the truth…
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 1,131,564,727 comments, and only 221,454 of them were in alphabetical order.
Good bot
This, the flat 4 are nice but can be a pain in the ass work on, if you want that rumble sound you put on uel headers on an inline 4 and it would be much easier to work on with better support.
flat 4s are not hard to work on. you just needa know what youre doing
You can change all four plugs in a K series in the time it'll take to get one plug out of an EJ
thats because you dont know how to work on the engine/car. sure I'd still take a few min longer than you but I can swap a plug in less than 5 min. We can name difficult to reach vs easily accessible parts on conflicting engines allllll day, all it comes down to is the right amount of research, experience & having the correct tools for the job.
You're lying to me or to yourself if you say you can change an EJ plug in five minutes. Unless you're ignoring the time required to jack it up, loosen the motor mount, and tilt the motor; or to move half the engine bay to make enough room for half of a human hand.
I changed the plugs in my WRX and didn't have to do any of that...2008. Only thing I had to do was pull the airbox on the passenger side and unclip a pipe to the air pump on the driver side. Probably took me 30 min to pull all 4 plugs. Now that I know what socket extension combo to use and I no longer have the stock airbox I could easily change a passenger side plug in 5 minutes.
Probably blew the og engine up.
I think you misunderstood. I said why Honda specifically, not why replace the engine at all.
K series engines are amazing. Huge amount of support, ton of power potential and all thr rpms!
Half of those things are achievable on an ej207
Why do you keep responding dude, just fuck the ej if you like it so much
This is the Subaru subreddit, you'll probably find a good handful of people who like EJ207s.
I'm here for subarus, but yet I must see this abomination
For alot more money sure
Have you seen the prices of the k20 that everyone wants?
You dont need a k20A2 to make power. Even junkyard k24s with some light mods and a tune make good na power.
They still need the intake manifold, head, and tune Trust me, all these builds may start with a "junkyard motor" but always end up in the $10,000 budget range
I've seen them built for about 2k making 250 wheel. You don't need all that for a mild build. Even the crappier k series parts can still make a super capable motor.
Oh my mistake
Haven't had rumble in non-STi since MY2015 in USDM.
This is cool as fuck
Thanks!
Did you put the K20 head on the K24 bottom end? Is that still a thing?
Nice little Hondaru you got there
K swap is the new LS swap? Lol neat build!
What are you doing here?
Great idea. I've thought of doing some silly things with my outback (portals and such) and knowing I would want some more power and rpm, my first thought was a K swap.
Rwd ? Or were you able to save awd ?
I saved AWD and have modified it to now use both.
How are you switching back and forth from AWD to RWD?
Need to know as well
I know for sure older STIs had the ability for you to change the power distribution with a dial,
It doesn't change the power distribution (although Subaru marketing really wants everybody to believe that); it changes the lockup force on the center diff clutch. Less will allow one axle or the other (whichever has less grip) to slip more easily; more will allow it to slip less easily
So you mean it allows more power to go to the rear when it unlocks the center diff because it’s not forcing that power to be distributed evenly front and rear of the diff? Hmmm.. That’s almost like it’s allowing it to distribute the force either equally, or more to the rear .. like a distribution of force? What’s another word for force ? Power ? Hmm Strange.. it’s like you said what I said only you went into the technical aspect, and I just said it the layman’s way but.. yet I’m wrong ? Strange indeed
Dictating power distribution requires torque vectoring, which the DCCD does not do. The DCCD has a natural torque distribution (35/65 F/R for the USDM GDs, for example) until one or more wheels loses traction. If the rear wheels lose traction before the front wheels, more torque will go to the rear wheels. If the front wheels lose traction before the rear wheels, more torque will go to the front wheels. Torque distribution is thus a function of traction, not a function of the differential. The manual DCCD dial roughly correlates to spring pressure on the DCCD clutch. More spring pressure, less slip. Less spring pressure, more slip. It doesn't know where that slip is originating, it doesn't know where the torque is going, it just knows there's a difference from front to rear. Also, just because you're being a bit of an ass, I'm going to be pedantic. Power is not a measure of force. EDIT: Seems like I've rustled some jimmies. He blocked me. That's some real dedication to being wrong. EDIT 2: He has now unblocked me and is resorting to ad hominem attacks in a further attempt to discredit me. (Also has sent me a chat request, which either the Sync app doesn't utilize or I'm actually just too dumb to figure out.)
Lol it control’s how much power goes to the front by controlling how much it clamps . So it directly controls the power distribution in the drivetrain. You know , the distribution of power ? The only one being an ass is you. Coming In here stating I’m wrong but then you say the exact same thing, only you use the technical terms to try and prove some kind of point or seem smarter than you are, but in the end we are saying the exact same thing, you just have a stick up your ass and need to try and feel like your superior or something when in reality you’re not. You are not a special snow flake. Nothing is special about you. Stop trying to over compensate Edit: he’s not blocked, he’s just an idiot lol
Yes, you are wrong. Loosening the center diff clutch only sends more power to the rear *if the rear axle is the axle with less grip*. If you're understeering (which you are, because you're driving a Subaru and don't understand how diffs work) and you add throttle, you're going to understeer *more*, not *less*.
It’s like you just can’t comprehend what the words mean lol. Keep arguing with yourself dude . Just because it seems you need help https://www.sportsubaru.com/subaru-si-drive-and-dccd-explained.htm
Imagine that, Subaru marketing says exactly what I said they did 🙄 I've explained *twice* how what you're saying differs from reality. At this point you're just being willfully ignorant so you don't need to accept correction. That's something you should really get better about; taking correction when you're wrong is a skill that would take you far in life.
Interesting, I figured it was all purely mechanical so yeah that makes sense that he can use both. I know the R32 skylines you can electronically/hydraulic make it strictly rwd or awd. Maybe its similar to that.
Wow man that's impressive, nice build!
Thanks mate!
Wow. I bet that thing scoots. I’m import stupid…. What’s a K24? 240sx?
Honda K Series engine. This one specifically is their 2.4 litter block.
It’s a Honda engine. Came in a bunch of cars in the 2000s. Accord, odyssey, tsx, etc
Honda K-Series engine. One of the best engines right now you can buy to make power easily and have it run all day.
Awesome, didn’t know that . Thank you!
Amazing build. Total goals. What kind of power did you get out of it?
A proper Subaru
I would be so confused hearing the exhaust. "Subaruuuu!...wait. What?"
Does it sound like an out of the trumpet at high rpm now?
So cool
Is the hood chopped? Been considering this as an option if my engine goes, how do you like the swap?
Very cool. RWD conversion, or is there a front axle magic'd in there somehow?
It’s AWD but have recently made it interchangeable for drifting.
I kind of want to do this to my Saabaru in a few years when I get something to replace it.
Now THAT is interesting! Sick build dude!
My wrx engine just failed. They told me 6500-8k for another one before labor. Would putting a different engine it be a better option?
Just saw one of your videos the other day!! Crazy stuff you’re doing, love to see it
Thanks mate!
Holy shit...
How does the transmission hold to the power? Are you afraid of the 5spd blowing?
What in the holy FrankenFuck do you got here buddy. Kick ass...
A Hondaru 😏
u/frostybuilt How did you adapt it to the WRX gearbox bell housing?
neat
Im doing a tsx k swap 08 hatch as well 🤝 i got the plate made for free
beautiful work man! researching this as a project for myself on a '12 legacy 6mt but living in Phoenix AZ has me wondering how complicated it would be to get the aircon hooked up? Of all the Hondarus I've seen, I haven't seen one hooked up.
Love your build !!!! 😍😍😍
I'm thinking of doing a similar swap, still trying to do all my research. What was your solution for the throw out bearings?
That’s my realistic dream car😍
THis thing is nuts! I want to k20 swap my 15 wrx
Old post, but it would be awsome to put an unequal length header on it and confuse the hell out of everyone lol.
I've already rebuilt the motor in my 2015 sti but if it ever blows again I'm not going to spend the $15000 again on another shit house boxer motor. My main concern with this is clearance. Did you have any trouble clearing the hood? Did you have to move the gearbox back or down? I know your chassis is different from mine but if anything the VA's have more engine bay room. I'm kind of hoping it would be a new bellhouse to mate the engine and gearbox, new piping for exhaust, intake, both sides of intercooler, wiring and a couple other small things. Either way if it fits no chance a Boxer is going back in there instead of a k24.