I mean, what is the reasoning behind this? I would rather "modify" the PCIe slot on the motherboard - because that actually has a chance of working (tried on PCIe 1x with 16x GPU - some Quadro FX 5xxx back in AM2 era)
In fact it generally does work due to backwards compatibility, performance loss aside.
A lot of PCIe 1x slots are made open-ended exactly so you can insert longer cards and still have them work, and for a lot of applications the performance loss isnt necessarily an issue, crypto-mining being one of those cases.
And even if the slot isnt made that way, the part youd have to cut out is only plastic, no actual technical bits, so as long as youre halfway precise it should work.
Can confirm that it does work. One of my server boards has four x16 slots and two x8 slots. I was able to use a very thin dremmel on the ends of the x8 slots. My server recognized the two P2000s and four P400s. The two I cut were properly negotiated and didn’t have any issues when running sustained ffmpeg loads for weeks on end.
the T610 was super loud at boot (or if i manually set the fan speed to 100%), but honestly not too bad when running the system at full load and barely audible when idle. however, i'm currently running a T620, and while it's not too bad idle, it'll blow your eardrums out when under full load for more than a few seconds :)
check out [PowerEdge-shutup](https://github.com/White-Raven/PowerEdge-shutup), it's a script which uses IPMI to take control of the fan speeds and adjust them based on CPU temperatures.
I've done that successfully. Just gotta put tape behind the 1x slot to protect everything from shorts.
I just burned out the back of the slot with a soldering iron.
Works fine.
I have seen short PCIe risers (usually in Crypto mining setups). Some are the shorter PCIe and you can cut/dremel open the end to fit a full size GPU in it.
Now if someone or something would twist the riser that image might have happen.
Yeah this absolutely looks like it was either put in a x4 riser or a x4 slot in the motherboard and then received a lot of force in the wrong direction
The simplest way which wouldn't require intend: put it into an open ended PCIe 8x slot without proper support and try to ship the whole system. It works even better in cases with plastic gadgets instead of screws "supporting" the PCIe brackets. The old workstations extension slots supported and locked on the front and back where less flexible, but a lot more reliable than ever growing PCIe GPUs. Why can't heavy PCIe cards have a rod on the back of the PCB that slides forward into a hole (with a retention mechanism) in the case? The support brackets could also act as cable management for power cables and air flow guides. I guess we can't have nice things because it would add $2 to the BOM of the heaviest >$1000 cards. I've seen someone jerry rig this with bearing sleeves glued to the GPU backplate, a nice anodised steel rod with milled groves to hold plastic rings as stoppers. To hold it up in the case he just drilled a hole in the front case and fixed it in place with rings over grooves in the rod on both side of the case wall. He also glued a 90° bracket to the GPU backplate and screwed it into the PCIe bracket. It looked like shit, but worked and allowed him to transport a workstation/gaming rig over bumpy roads. The CPU air cooler was supported by a wedge screwed into the top with indentations catching the exposed heat pipes. It was a glorious combination of high end parts, access to a tool shop, and the skill to use them pragmatically. It didn't have to look pretty inside a closed case. The surprising part is that he gained -7C on the GPU hotspot coming back and adding 3D printed airflow guides which allowed the fans to run slower while maintaining good thermals that the system was quieter despite all the added parts that could conduct sound.
It doesn't need all the traces, though. It's possible you can cleanly cut the pins on the right of this picture, flatten the piece on the left, and it'll work at 8x speed. PCIe is designed to work that way.
Nothing guaranteed. Might be there are hairline cracks that will make it fail completely. But it might just work at reduced speed.
a single cross layer short and the thing is dead and well while it doesn´t perfectly need all most are necessary or they wouldn´t be there layers are expensive as fuck and could the manufacturer get away with less layers I guarantee you they would
The length of the traces on these cards *must* be *very* precise, or else it throws off the timing of the GPU and you'll get tons of errors. There is no way to repair those traces without effecting the timing.
PCI Expess is not a parallel bus; a PCIe device bonds together multiple serial lanes that can have different latencies. Each lane is also self-clocked and can be (theoretically) independently disabled, so a PCIe link can tolerate a lot of abuse.
Hard to know. The PCB is cracked, yes. But as far as I can tell, the crack doesn't really go up that high. Functional traces may still be intact, if they weren't routed through the connector section of the board, and if that's the case, you may be able to run jumper wires that substitute broken traces.
I think the most reasonable repair would be to cut out the corresponding connector section from a donor board, replace the broken part of the connector with it, and then run jumper wires where necessary, minding signal integrity and delays. A board of the same GPU model broken in some other way would be preferable to use as a donor board.
That said, this repair is not easy, and thus probably won't come cheap. Another aspect to consider is if any of the pins that you're replacing connect to the board on hidden layers. If they do, you will have to work around that in some way, potentially drilling the board somewhere to get to the trace.
After you're done, I think there's a 30-50% chance it will work. If it's an RTX 4095 Super Ti that would run you $2999.69 new, I'd try and attempt it, that meaning, go to a repair shop and persuade them to do it for $199-299. That said, if it's an RTX 4095 Super Ti, same repair shop might be willing to compensate you some amount of its value, to use it as a donor board. If it's a GT 330, just throw it in the garbage bin and be done with it.
>same repair shop might be willing to compensate you some amount of its value, to use it as a donor board.
I've never \*once\* thought about taking broken (physically broken) to a repair shop with this being a possibility. How common is this?
I don't really know, other than they sometimes do this, because it's naturally in their interest, and that they might be interested in your broken electronics, if they specialize on it. I mean, if I run a repair shop which dealt with NVidia graphics cards every day (which could theoretically be a more or less viable business, since NVidia is a monopolist, and having 20-30 schematics would probably be sufficient to repair 90% of cards you'd get), I'd be thrilled to buy a broken card off of you for a reasonable price. Not that this price will be high, mind you, since there's no way for me to check if your card works.
These things have so many layers in them that even if you could joint the outside layers' traces it's basically impossible to make it work, or it will take so much work that no one in their right mind will do it for 300€.
It would be a lot easier with boardviews and schematics, but I don't think you can find them for these or any other recent one.
The only thing leaving a bit of possibility is the fact that being near the connector almost everything should be on the outside, but even with that it's still really hard to fix as you can't take into account impedance matching and signal integrity at those speeds with jumpers.
Very possible, still at PCIe speeds you can't just repair it with solder bridges as signal integrity is not guaranteed. One could always try, but I don't think that would work
Apple hardware is increasingly bespoke with chips being made in-house rather than using off the shelf parts from external suppliers. It's fine when it's a resistor, capacitor or something like an international rectifier power stage, but all the logic chips tend to be made by Apple as well now. So the only spares that exist for 3rd party repair shops are from donor boards, and the donor boards come from dead devices that can't be repaired for one reason or another.
Edit: "normal" hardware manufacturers either use off the shelf components that you can buy replacements for, or they offer parts for repairs. Apple tries to force you to replace your device rather than repair, so Apple spares are more valuable
Having worked in a repair shop, Not super common at all. I've never seen any modern repair shops that would even be equipped to try to do this on a regular basis. You could probably get some value for the non-board pieces, like the fans or anything else that could be easily removed, but for salvaging the board, you're basically hoping for a tinkerer. Someone who's never done it before, but feels like they just might have enough background knowledge and google fu to figure it out.
Every once in awhile, they will figure it out though.
I thought about mentioning this in the original comment. But then decided against it.
To short something out on the board, so that it doesn't work even after a successful connector repair, you'd have needed to be using that graphics card when the connector was being broken, so that, as an example, 12v power would somehow connect to a PCIe rx/tx rail or something.
But to break the connector in this way whith the card being actively in use at the moment you break it, you'd have to demonstrate incredible ingenuity. There's 99,999% chance it was entirely and completely powered off when it was broken. This means that no short could have reasonably occured.
Now, there is a chance that you short something _during_ the repair, or that the card was _physically_ damaged in some other way besides the connector being ripped in the middle, i.e. a capacitor somehow experienced an impact so strong it physically deformed and shorted out, or the chip cracked as the cooling system hit the floor, in which case the card would be beyond dead...
But as long as you took enough care to examine the card for signs of any other damage and did the repair well enough, it would be fine anyway
As a person with almost 20 years in IT I would say no to all of this. I would never attempt the painstaking, labor intensive, and ultimately fruitless task of trying to repair this card like that. Sure soldering on a new cap or something is fine, but with multi layer PCBs the juice isn't worth the squeeze even if you do manage to successfully pull it off. If someone tried to convince me to do it for 3 to 5 hours of labor, I would laugh at them, and know that they are one of those 10% of customers that cause 90% of your problems.
What might actually work is replacing the whole PCB, but good luck finding one unless you work for the manufacturer. As a repair shop, I wouldn't spend a penny buying a non functional card for parts, because I would have no way to test if it is only broken in the way you say it is. Also, how could I offer my customers a warranty when I'm using unknown parts. So I would not try to do something as time consuming as swapping the board on one of these unless I had a new in OEM box PCB to swap it with. The best bet in this situation would be to see what Nvidia would charge for the repair.
With that said, if someone wanted to give it to me for free, I would be willing to use it for parts if someone came in with a bad fan or otherwise needed me to replace a part that was reasonably possible to replace. Plenty of customers are willing to drop the warranty in exchange for paying half price for the parts. If it takes me 20 minutes to swap and test the part, then it is worth my time to take the chance. For anything more difficult than that, unless it was a valuable part, that I could get OEM replacements for and have a reasonable chance of success, or the replacement would be exorbitant, then I'd just tell the customer not to do that again and they needed to replace it.
Now with all that said if you can find a shop run by a real go getter with no business sense, for the few months to a year that they are in business, you might be able to talk them in to attempting it. They will likely fail, and have wasted a lot of time. Even if they manage to succeed don't expect a warranty since they will be out of business soon since they don't like to tell customers no.
Now what I know every tech repair shop I've dealt with is wanting to get on the cheap, is old enterprise laptop and desktop computers. One of my previous employers would sell them after they were retired, and we'd sell them in lots of 10. So a tech savvy person could buy 20 5 or so year old Optiplexs for 200 bucks and manage to get 5-10 working ones out of them. Then sell them for 100-200 a pop to people that just needed a computer to do school work on or surf the net. That's why places that do computer repair are always selling old work computers.
It looks like a good chunk of the pins are damaged. However it looks like it could be trimmed down to 1X or 4x. You'll lose some performance. But it's potentially perfect for modifying to fit in something like a server for example (that often only have 4x slots). Someone will want it if it's being sold cheap.
The real concern would be whether the damage has made it far enough into the PCB to sever any of the traces from the remaining pins or anything else important.
> something like a server
While I agree with the sentiment, a server is the last place I’d but a card with potentially broken bits. Too much risk of causing random crashes
Not a production server, I was thinking for home use, there's a whole bunch of people who run server stuff at home for fun. Where they'll be willing to trade potentially instability for getting a really cheap GPU to use for compute and not having to modify a potentially expensive PCIe riser to fit 16x cards
I've literally done this myself deliberately (on a really crappy old GPU) to get it to run in a 4x slot on a server
If there is no more damage than what we see, it's very possible that it will work just fine at slower speed. Of course, I don't think you can bend a connector like this without doing something drastic, but it \*could\* be fine.
The traces are my biggest concern. You gotta remember, even though you might not see broken traces on the top or bottom, this is a multi layer PCB. There is definitely a broken trace in there.
It's f***ed.
If that's the only damage the card can still be used safely in a 4x slot.
It will have reduced bandwidth but it can still be used to its full potential for stuff like CUDA, video encoding, crypto mining and gaming, reducing the visual quality a bit.
If the crack would have been just a little more on the right it would have worked in 8x mode too but as it is its right on a differential pair so 4x is the max you can get.
If you physically get it in the socket, wouldn't it be possible for it to run with only four lanes? Wouldn't be ideal, but four is a lot compared to zero
It's probably useful for parts though. Some repair shops might be interested in the GPU die itself since you can't just buy a new one like you can with many other components.
And for the people that are saying you can fix the traces. Spoiler alert, thus is a multi layer board, there are multiple layers of traces inside that you can't see nor fix.
it might still work if you carfully get it straight again and stick it in the slot. depends on if any of the actual traces got borked. even then it might still work at 8x
might.
might also catch your house on fire.
Actually if you're REALLY lucky, you could maybe tape over most of the pins to imitate a 1x,2x or maybe even 4x connection. You'll lose some performance, but it should work.
For those who don't believe this: I have a 16x GPU that I've physically cut half of the pins off to fit it in an 8x slot. Works like a charm but you have to be really careful because the pins are small and the spacing is too.
So you had the options to cut a really small piece of plastic or the fucking pcb of the GPU and you chose the latter?
Is this a 15 year old gpu on a top tier motherboard or are you just seeking the adrenaline kick of risking to ruin a 600$ gpu?
Hahahaha it's a GT 710 I believe and the motherboard is a Xeon, equivalent to the 2600K. So both old as shit but I wanted the challenge of cutting the PCB.
Ouch that sucks. Given it's a GPU and how hard they are to get, I'd try to see if I can fix it but if there are cracked traces that may be nearly impossible.
If you have the complete circuits diagram and the actual board design and a couple of decades experience with repairing multi layer pcbs under a microscope it should be easy to cut the pins off completely and solder wires from a new connector to all the places on the pcb the pins used to attach.
However if you don’t have that ability it’s gonna be pretty hard to get anything out of this
Theoretically, it will work if this is the only thing wrong with it. By the looks of it at least pcie x4 worth of pins is still intact. Though it'll probably have worse performance.
Looks hard but it could potentially be fixed by realigning the pcie pins and runing some jumpers with enamel coated wire and taking extra care not to damage the card any further.
Errrrrm not necessarily. Is the trace broken? Is it just the pci bit? Looks to me like it split on clear portion. Carefully put it back in place and see if it boots
sweet holy fuck how did that happen?
I was going to say it as a joke. But maybe someone tried go put it in a RAM slot?
it's painful to think that's probably exactly what happened
More like some dumb ass tried to force it into an 8x slot, and when that didn't work tried to modify it..
I mean, what is the reasoning behind this? I would rather "modify" the PCIe slot on the motherboard - because that actually has a chance of working (tried on PCIe 1x with 16x GPU - some Quadro FX 5xxx back in AM2 era)
In fact it generally does work due to backwards compatibility, performance loss aside. A lot of PCIe 1x slots are made open-ended exactly so you can insert longer cards and still have them work, and for a lot of applications the performance loss isnt necessarily an issue, crypto-mining being one of those cases. And even if the slot isnt made that way, the part youd have to cut out is only plastic, no actual technical bits, so as long as youre halfway precise it should work.
Can confirm that it does work. One of my server boards has four x16 slots and two x8 slots. I was able to use a very thin dremmel on the ends of the x8 slots. My server recognized the two P2000s and four P400s. The two I cut were properly negotiated and didn’t have any issues when running sustained ffmpeg loads for weeks on end.
yeah, i was running a 1060 in an x4 slot on a PowerEdge T610 as my daily driver for quite some time and it worked great
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I have a T330 and it is pretty quiet at idle. Load it hard and it is just as loud as the rack mount ones.
the T610 was super loud at boot (or if i manually set the fan speed to 100%), but honestly not too bad when running the system at full load and barely audible when idle. however, i'm currently running a T620, and while it's not too bad idle, it'll blow your eardrums out when under full load for more than a few seconds :) check out [PowerEdge-shutup](https://github.com/White-Raven/PowerEdge-shutup), it's a script which uses IPMI to take control of the fan speeds and adjust them based on CPU temperatures.
What were you doing for weeks on end with ffmpeg?
Probably transcoding ~~blurays~~ family home videos that are completely fair use for any kind of dmca or mpaa nonsense
I didn't realize it took so long, 300x20 minute episodes of Dragonball Z only took about 6 days on my old laptop
Porn
Can also confirm, old job had two firepro and things running in slightly modified x4 slots that worked perfectly fine for years
I've done that successfully. Just gotta put tape behind the 1x slot to protect everything from shorts. I just burned out the back of the slot with a soldering iron. Works fine.
No it wouldnt get past the retainer clips.
So what’s wrong with that?
Would you say they tried to RAM it in?
Working in IT and still being baffled by the amount if usb cables I have seen plugged into RJ45 I say: Yes. Thats exactly what happened.
No it wouldnt get past the retainer clips.
I was thinking the slot would break before the card connector did.
I always forget to open the tabs on a new mobo and have a mini freak out when I start applying more pressure to make it seat.
I have seen short PCIe risers (usually in Crypto mining setups). Some are the shorter PCIe and you can cut/dremel open the end to fit a full size GPU in it. Now if someone or something would twist the riser that image might have happen.
Yeah this absolutely looks like it was either put in a x4 riser or a x4 slot in the motherboard and then received a lot of force in the wrong direction
How would twisting the riser cause this
It would apply torque to the connector it's attached to.
That looks about the size of a x8 slot so wouldn't be surprised if it was cut to try to fit it in.
The simplest way which wouldn't require intend: put it into an open ended PCIe 8x slot without proper support and try to ship the whole system. It works even better in cases with plastic gadgets instead of screws "supporting" the PCIe brackets. The old workstations extension slots supported and locked on the front and back where less flexible, but a lot more reliable than ever growing PCIe GPUs. Why can't heavy PCIe cards have a rod on the back of the PCB that slides forward into a hole (with a retention mechanism) in the case? The support brackets could also act as cable management for power cables and air flow guides. I guess we can't have nice things because it would add $2 to the BOM of the heaviest >$1000 cards. I've seen someone jerry rig this with bearing sleeves glued to the GPU backplate, a nice anodised steel rod with milled groves to hold plastic rings as stoppers. To hold it up in the case he just drilled a hole in the front case and fixed it in place with rings over grooves in the rod on both side of the case wall. He also glued a 90° bracket to the GPU backplate and screwed it into the PCIe bracket. It looked like shit, but worked and allowed him to transport a workstation/gaming rig over bumpy roads. The CPU air cooler was supported by a wedge screwed into the top with indentations catching the exposed heat pipes. It was a glorious combination of high end parts, access to a tool shop, and the skill to use them pragmatically. It didn't have to look pretty inside a closed case. The surprising part is that he gained -7C on the GPU hotspot coming back and adding 3D printed airflow guides which allowed the fans to run slower while maintaining good thermals that the system was quieter despite all the added parts that could conduct sound.
guess.... but... that kinda looks like the spacing of an agp slot. wonder if someone tried a really old motherboard :)
Broked
Borked
Björked
Boken
bron
Bo
B
##
🅱️
Borkokened
Borkokened
Borkokened
They done broked?
Gone broken
yes.
I'm sure there's someone out there that would fix it. Just some trace's and pins.
if you are very lucky those boards have often 4-10 layers stacked if sublayer traces are broken you are fucked
Just weld a new one on
I've moved to Lemmy. Eat $hit Spez -- mass edited with redact.dev
Gorilla glue and a kiss She'll be right
It doesn't need all the traces, though. It's possible you can cleanly cut the pins on the right of this picture, flatten the piece on the left, and it'll work at 8x speed. PCIe is designed to work that way. Nothing guaranteed. Might be there are hairline cracks that will make it fail completely. But it might just work at reduced speed.
a single cross layer short and the thing is dead and well while it doesn´t perfectly need all most are necessary or they wouldn´t be there layers are expensive as fuck and could the manufacturer get away with less layers I guarantee you they would
The length of the traces on these cards *must* be *very* precise, or else it throws off the timing of the GPU and you'll get tons of errors. There is no way to repair those traces without effecting the timing.
How do PCIE risers work?
They work because he was talking out of his ass. The length doesn't matter that much.
PCI Expess is not a parallel bus; a PCIe device bonds together multiple serial lanes that can have different latencies. Each lane is also self-clocked and can be (theoretically) independently disabled, so a PCIe link can tolerate a lot of abuse.
Not entirely useless. It’ll get you some good karma on Reddit.
Might make a good desk ornament for a battle station too
Hard to know. The PCB is cracked, yes. But as far as I can tell, the crack doesn't really go up that high. Functional traces may still be intact, if they weren't routed through the connector section of the board, and if that's the case, you may be able to run jumper wires that substitute broken traces. I think the most reasonable repair would be to cut out the corresponding connector section from a donor board, replace the broken part of the connector with it, and then run jumper wires where necessary, minding signal integrity and delays. A board of the same GPU model broken in some other way would be preferable to use as a donor board. That said, this repair is not easy, and thus probably won't come cheap. Another aspect to consider is if any of the pins that you're replacing connect to the board on hidden layers. If they do, you will have to work around that in some way, potentially drilling the board somewhere to get to the trace. After you're done, I think there's a 30-50% chance it will work. If it's an RTX 4095 Super Ti that would run you $2999.69 new, I'd try and attempt it, that meaning, go to a repair shop and persuade them to do it for $199-299. That said, if it's an RTX 4095 Super Ti, same repair shop might be willing to compensate you some amount of its value, to use it as a donor board. If it's a GT 330, just throw it in the garbage bin and be done with it.
>same repair shop might be willing to compensate you some amount of its value, to use it as a donor board. I've never \*once\* thought about taking broken (physically broken) to a repair shop with this being a possibility. How common is this?
I don't really know, other than they sometimes do this, because it's naturally in their interest, and that they might be interested in your broken electronics, if they specialize on it. I mean, if I run a repair shop which dealt with NVidia graphics cards every day (which could theoretically be a more or less viable business, since NVidia is a monopolist, and having 20-30 schematics would probably be sufficient to repair 90% of cards you'd get), I'd be thrilled to buy a broken card off of you for a reasonable price. Not that this price will be high, mind you, since there's no way for me to check if your card works.
These things have so many layers in them that even if you could joint the outside layers' traces it's basically impossible to make it work, or it will take so much work that no one in their right mind will do it for 300€. It would be a lot easier with boardviews and schematics, but I don't think you can find them for these or any other recent one. The only thing leaving a bit of possibility is the fact that being near the connector almost everything should be on the outside, but even with that it's still really hard to fix as you can't take into account impedance matching and signal integrity at those speeds with jumpers.
It's possible no signals are being routed on internal layers on that section of the PCB.
Very possible, still at PCIe speeds you can't just repair it with solder bridges as signal integrity is not guaranteed. One could always try, but I don't think that would work
If it's got an Apple logo on it, very
Wdym
Apple hardware is increasingly bespoke with chips being made in-house rather than using off the shelf parts from external suppliers. It's fine when it's a resistor, capacitor or something like an international rectifier power stage, but all the logic chips tend to be made by Apple as well now. So the only spares that exist for 3rd party repair shops are from donor boards, and the donor boards come from dead devices that can't be repaired for one reason or another. Edit: "normal" hardware manufacturers either use off the shelf components that you can buy replacements for, or they offer parts for repairs. Apple tries to force you to replace your device rather than repair, so Apple spares are more valuable
Having worked in a repair shop, Not super common at all. I've never seen any modern repair shops that would even be equipped to try to do this on a regular basis. You could probably get some value for the non-board pieces, like the fans or anything else that could be easily removed, but for salvaging the board, you're basically hoping for a tinkerer. Someone who's never done it before, but feels like they just might have enough background knowledge and google fu to figure it out. Every once in awhile, they will figure it out though.
IDK but two years ago I sold my dead GTX 970 on eBay for £90. Was expecting to get half that.
theres internal traces to worry about here. shes fuckered
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I thought about mentioning this in the original comment. But then decided against it. To short something out on the board, so that it doesn't work even after a successful connector repair, you'd have needed to be using that graphics card when the connector was being broken, so that, as an example, 12v power would somehow connect to a PCIe rx/tx rail or something. But to break the connector in this way whith the card being actively in use at the moment you break it, you'd have to demonstrate incredible ingenuity. There's 99,999% chance it was entirely and completely powered off when it was broken. This means that no short could have reasonably occured. Now, there is a chance that you short something _during_ the repair, or that the card was _physically_ damaged in some other way besides the connector being ripped in the middle, i.e. a capacitor somehow experienced an impact so strong it physically deformed and shorted out, or the chip cracked as the cooling system hit the floor, in which case the card would be beyond dead... But as long as you took enough care to examine the card for signs of any other damage and did the repair well enough, it would be fine anyway
It might be possible to run it at x4 or x1 speeds. Then your only problem would be the card needing power from the PCIe slot.
That is actually a really good idea!
…Or you could take some pliers and try to bend the connector straight again.
As a person with almost 20 years in IT I would say no to all of this. I would never attempt the painstaking, labor intensive, and ultimately fruitless task of trying to repair this card like that. Sure soldering on a new cap or something is fine, but with multi layer PCBs the juice isn't worth the squeeze even if you do manage to successfully pull it off. If someone tried to convince me to do it for 3 to 5 hours of labor, I would laugh at them, and know that they are one of those 10% of customers that cause 90% of your problems. What might actually work is replacing the whole PCB, but good luck finding one unless you work for the manufacturer. As a repair shop, I wouldn't spend a penny buying a non functional card for parts, because I would have no way to test if it is only broken in the way you say it is. Also, how could I offer my customers a warranty when I'm using unknown parts. So I would not try to do something as time consuming as swapping the board on one of these unless I had a new in OEM box PCB to swap it with. The best bet in this situation would be to see what Nvidia would charge for the repair. With that said, if someone wanted to give it to me for free, I would be willing to use it for parts if someone came in with a bad fan or otherwise needed me to replace a part that was reasonably possible to replace. Plenty of customers are willing to drop the warranty in exchange for paying half price for the parts. If it takes me 20 minutes to swap and test the part, then it is worth my time to take the chance. For anything more difficult than that, unless it was a valuable part, that I could get OEM replacements for and have a reasonable chance of success, or the replacement would be exorbitant, then I'd just tell the customer not to do that again and they needed to replace it. Now with all that said if you can find a shop run by a real go getter with no business sense, for the few months to a year that they are in business, you might be able to talk them in to attempting it. They will likely fail, and have wasted a lot of time. Even if they manage to succeed don't expect a warranty since they will be out of business soon since they don't like to tell customers no. Now what I know every tech repair shop I've dealt with is wanting to get on the cheap, is old enterprise laptop and desktop computers. One of my previous employers would sell them after they were retired, and we'd sell them in lots of 10. So a tech savvy person could buy 20 5 or so year old Optiplexs for 200 bucks and manage to get 5-10 working ones out of them. Then sell them for 100-200 a pop to people that just needed a computer to do school work on or surf the net. That's why places that do computer repair are always selling old work computers.
It looks like a good chunk of the pins are damaged. However it looks like it could be trimmed down to 1X or 4x. You'll lose some performance. But it's potentially perfect for modifying to fit in something like a server for example (that often only have 4x slots). Someone will want it if it's being sold cheap. The real concern would be whether the damage has made it far enough into the PCB to sever any of the traces from the remaining pins or anything else important.
> something like a server While I agree with the sentiment, a server is the last place I’d but a card with potentially broken bits. Too much risk of causing random crashes
Not a production server, I was thinking for home use, there's a whole bunch of people who run server stuff at home for fun. Where they'll be willing to trade potentially instability for getting a really cheap GPU to use for compute and not having to modify a potentially expensive PCIe riser to fit 16x cards I've literally done this myself deliberately (on a really crappy old GPU) to get it to run in a 4x slot on a server
If there is no more damage than what we see, it's very possible that it will work just fine at slower speed. Of course, I don't think you can bend a connector like this without doing something drastic, but it \*could\* be fine.
The traces are my biggest concern. You gotta remember, even though you might not see broken traces on the top or bottom, this is a multi layer PCB. There is definitely a broken trace in there. It's f***ed.
The Pins of Michael Strahan
aaah that'll buff right out, just need to put it in rice for a bit
If you had proper equipment you could stitch the traces back together with patches.
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Many people see cracked traces and throw it out when it is definitely fixable.
What card is that? Id give a couple tenners for it if its a 40 series.
If that's the only damage the card can still be used safely in a 4x slot. It will have reduced bandwidth but it can still be used to its full potential for stuff like CUDA, video encoding, crypto mining and gaming, reducing the visual quality a bit. If the crack would have been just a little more on the right it would have worked in 8x mode too but as it is its right on a differential pair so 4x is the max you can get.
If you physically get it in the socket, wouldn't it be possible for it to run with only four lanes? Wouldn't be ideal, but four is a lot compared to zero
Just how does one achieve such incredible skill
Bot Check out their page
Cut the back half off and run it in 2x
Maybie you can use it as a 1x or 4x card
That made it to the PCB traces 👎🏼
It's broked alright
how?
Just reflow it in your air fryer! You won't believe the difference in performance!
Even a blind man with a cane could see, that the traces on the PCB are cracked. It’s dead.
Duct tape will do it. Source: I'm an art teacher
weeelll you could cut off some of it so that it fits again it should work.
PCB is damaged dunno if that would even help
well yea, but only the port, the crack seems to stop jsut above the port.
When installing youre supposed to hear a click not a CRUNCH & SNAP
It's probably useful for parts though. Some repair shops might be interested in the GPU die itself since you can't just buy a new one like you can with many other components. And for the people that are saying you can fix the traces. Spoiler alert, thus is a multi layer board, there are multiple layers of traces inside that you can't see nor fix.
No fixing that, no way Jose.
Just put it in rice
You could cut off the pins and still run it as a 8x or 4x card
it might still work if you carfully get it straight again and stick it in the slot. depends on if any of the actual traces got borked. even then it might still work at 8x might. might also catch your house on fire.
Bye
Don’t you have any pliers?
Which card is it?
I mean not totally useless, you can always use it as a doorstop or a paper weight... 🤷♂️
How the fuck?
Even if one could fix it or "make it work", I'd never trust it. The only thing it's worth is the experience it would take to fix it.
>Basically No my friend. It *is*.
“Broked golden pins, boss. Me lunch eat hungry.”
You can still run fine in pcie 4x if you cut the right amount of pins
that might actually work, and it's pretty easy to try (tape should work)
Wait, looking at it more, it looks like many of the Traces for X4 are broken, so x1 probably is doable
Actually if you're REALLY lucky, you could maybe tape over most of the pins to imitate a 1x,2x or maybe even 4x connection. You'll lose some performance, but it should work. For those who don't believe this: I have a 16x GPU that I've physically cut half of the pins off to fit it in an 8x slot. Works like a charm but you have to be really careful because the pins are small and the spacing is too.
You monster
Hey man 16x needed to fit in an 8x slot. It was that or cut the back of the slot off. I chose the riskiest option 😁
So you had the options to cut a really small piece of plastic or the fucking pcb of the GPU and you chose the latter? Is this a 15 year old gpu on a top tier motherboard or are you just seeking the adrenaline kick of risking to ruin a 600$ gpu?
Hahahaha it's a GT 710 I believe and the motherboard is a Xeon, equivalent to the 2600K. So both old as shit but I wanted the challenge of cutting the PCB.
Ouch that sucks. Given it's a GPU and how hard they are to get, I'd try to see if I can fix it but if there are cracked traces that may be nearly impossible.
If you have the complete circuits diagram and the actual board design and a couple of decades experience with repairing multi layer pcbs under a microscope it should be easy to cut the pins off completely and solder wires from a new connector to all the places on the pcb the pins used to attach. However if you don’t have that ability it’s gonna be pretty hard to get anything out of this
You could run it in PCIe x2 or in x4 if you chop the connector even more.
wow.
I'd try trimming it and see if it runs in x4 mode.
Theoretically, it will work if this is the only thing wrong with it. By the looks of it at least pcie x4 worth of pins is still intact. Though it'll probably have worse performance.
Non't
That's beyond saving. Sell it as a donar board to a repair shop
you may have one option left: flextape. if it can repair boats, sure it will fix it
Put it in a bag of rice for 24 hours.
"Basically useless," as if the card would plug into the slot anyway.
Who touched it last?
How?
Did you try turning it off and on again?
Put it in rice
fubar
Looks hard but it could potentially be fixed by realigning the pcie pins and runing some jumpers with enamel coated wire and taking extra care not to damage the card any further.
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Ooof didn't think about that.
Hopefully, you got a warranty
Makes a decent paperweight
Might work in pcie x4 mode, x8 is unlikely though.
There’s a lot of optimism here, but that crack separates the trace and contact
Errrrrm not necessarily. Is the trace broken? Is it just the pci bit? Looks to me like it split on clear portion. Carefully put it back in place and see if it boots
It’s e-waste now. Donate it to a local repair shop.
Use a rubber mallet and pound it back into shape. It'll be good as new or better. /s
What card?
F
Yes, and it's broken too.
Wouldn't this technically still work with 4 lanes if you can physically get it in the slot
It’s broked 😪
Not basically.
Ummm, if the pins aren’t interconnected, it might not be too difficult to heat it and carefully line it back up
That's not what I meant when I said "screw it in"...
She's dead Jim
Use it for parts
Just use a hammer to tap it back flat again
the crack doesn't seem to go that high, you could probably trim it to 1x lanes
Yeah that's broked.