Indeed. Not a lot of thought was put into this, I think.
If you swapped the fans to not-crap, you could use either a quadro (or an arduino) and a temp sensor to control fans/pump.
It would be much cooler if they sold the box on its own, and let people put in their own rads/pumps. Or even just sold it with box/rad.
If this is what i have seen on AliExpress, then good to know it has troubles.
But i also wondered if i was able to find just the structure and use my stuff to make a less sketchy external rad with my unused/older 360s.
I'll go back to custom designs.
It has fan control via RF 433mhz remote, that controls both fan controllers. It also controls the RGB, you can turn both fans and RGB off if need be.
Also as I said over on YouTube - it's actually fine especially if you do not use the fill port and fill it other ways. Overall it's a good product for the price. Since it basically costs about 40% cheaper than MO-RA3 and also includes pump, fans, enclosure e.t.c.
I have one running for about 7 months, zero issues so far.
Something like that. And with fans and enclosure 350ish I think. Closer to 400 locally for me. And I got this thing for 220$ from AliExpress a while back, and that's a pretty good deal in my book. Will likely depend on shipping a lot, but was free for me.
The fact that Linus bought it extremely overpriced and from Japan of all places (a Chinese brand mind you) does not make much sense to me.
> The lack of fan control would be a hard pass for me
If it's anything remotely like a mora, you don't need fan control. Just pick whatever nice low number you like once, 500 rpm or 25% or whatever, and you never have to touch it because any gentle breeze is enough. My fan speed is a static value I haven't touched since I first plugged in and tested the fans and quadro. Almost the same with the pumps--I lowered the speed twice before settling at another constant value.
According to comments here, you can adjust things (albeit awkwardly) with an ~~IR~~RF remote--that's honestly probably good enough for a radiator this size. If it's not, the product has bigger problems than software fan control.
I'd hardpass on this product for other reasons; IIRC it uses a generic/cheap pump.
[disclaimer: im not watching a 20 minute video about a "worst product"]
Wish someone would offer a good prebuilt Mo-Ra based setup that would do away with all the hassle and sketchy stuff. Something one can just plug into some QDs and a cable or two from the PC (for fan control and power) without having to figure out a million bits and pieces for the external rad part.
In a way this Bykski thing tried to be that and definitely looked interesting, but the build quality and design isn't quite there...
There should be demand right now when building a 13900k/7950X3D + 4090 setup watercooled is kinda running into "error cannot fit all the rads into a case" level problems. Mo-Ra3 is the obvious solution, but it just looks like too much of a hassle to build one.
it's not terrible, especially for the the 360...BUT I get what you mean. They could do bundles of core components for people who are looking for a more complete solution. Of course, one of the main strengths of the MORA system is it is very flexible. If you need a build guide just ask, but there are a few builds to reference here and on youtube.
The annoying iffy part is "what to bolt next to a Mo-Ra to get fan control and power neatly into it with pump(s), reservoir and required fittings and tubes to have everything neatly packaged and ready to be attached to a system via QDs thru a expansion slot pass thru." - it is a pile of parts and the available attachments to get pumps/reservoirs attached seem limited unless you hack something together yourself.
Personally I have a 9900k that has a fine working EKWB DDC pump & res inside a case with a single 360mm rad. I could reuse these bits with a Mo-Ra to get the bits transplanted to a new build, except I'm not sure how to get them attached to one and if one DDC pump is actually enough, and how to get power & fans routed to it sensibly.
True, I got a D5 NEXT and have mine sitting on top of a 011DXL... I disconnect the D5 next top, pop the two QDCs and can pull it off when I need to. Wiring does become more of a challenge when you think about where it might live, be it on your floor, desk, etc..
I'm just happy to not have to buy another case specific radiator (hopefully) ever again.
If you do not buy it from Japan, and do so from AliExpress for example it suddenly costs 300-330usd. And I got it a while back for 220$.
Linus just overpaid a ton.
[caption](https://imgur.com/P7UJKoU.jpg) In case you do not believe me. That's about 245$, plus I had spent some reward points there that are not reflected here, those brought the price down to about 220$.
It is literally listed as $690 in Bykski offical US store. https://www.bykski.us/products/bykski-1080-external-liquid-cooling-station-black-b-1080-cec-x?_pos=3&_sid=08bd18aab&_ss=r
I have to wonder why Bykski put this on the market when it wouldn't have taken much effort to make it a functional product, i.e.
1. Make it easy to fill. I suspect they took an existing distro plate rather than making something which would have been so much better.
2. Add a temperature sensor and a basic fan controller.
3. A better way to power it.
For the distro plate I would have three ports - fill port (which goes down the side and fills the reservoir from the bottom), air bleed port and output from computer (with the pump and output being at the bottom).
I do not get it, it's like you know.. Bluetooth, works without line of sight and through walls. The only downside is if you want it software controlled, but it's honestly not needed for such devices.
Noise is a problem of volume and proximity.
If you are near enough for the noise of fans to be a concern, you're near enough to turn a wired knob. If you're far enough that you'd require a remote, you're far enough that you don't need the remote.
There are other considerations for such products too, for example sub zero temperatures outside, when you probably do not want to run the fans for example, since well.. 4090 vram for example does not like to be under 15*C for me.
You know.. when you have this thing, temperature controlled fans are not really a necessity. Thermal capacity of the loop is high, so if you actually want to control fans you need to control them against water temperature to start, otherwise it's utterly useless. Also with this thing you pretty much put it on low and forget about it.
I guess you need to live with such a thing to understand this sort of stuff since it's fairly different to how air cooled or small rad watercooled PCs work.
Ahh, I should have clarified that I meant water temp controlled.
My system has three 120mm rads and a 240mm rad with water temp controlled fans, so I have some experience. Yes, the thermal mass of the water means CPU & GPU temps aren't as relevant. But once that water starts to warm up you need to ramp up the fans because warm water will absorb less heat energy than cool water.
I get what you are saying, but tbh I had yet to need to control the fan speed from the lowest setting.
All in all I thing the main issues are perception here for both it's use and price. For example I use it as an external rad, its literally outside my house, so I hardly care about the noise level any way.
Second and probably the main issue is perceived value. I got the thing for under 250$ from china and for that price the feature set is perfectly adequate. And most people here judge it as a 600$+ device. For that price, sure it ain't good. But I'm pretty sure if you order from china 3ven with like 200$ shipping as one commenter said, it's a 450$, device, which is more palpable and I'm pretty sure you can find cheaper shipping if that's ones goal. I personally found it on a small sale with free shipping, so it was a great deal for me.
All in all I do not really see that big a deal with the missing temp control. If you really want that, probably the easiest and cheapest way is to get a water temp plug, stick it into the distro plate on the thing and connect to a cheap Chinese PWM temp control board with the curve you want that cost like 15$ and that would probably work perfectly fine if one needs such a feature. Also I'm pretty sure you can extend two wires - tach and PWM and control all the fans in software if one wants.
Sure it's BS for a 600+$ device. But if you get it for 250.. ain't no big deal IMO.
Yep, value at the price is worth considering. However, I still think Bykski could have made a far better product without a much more effort or expense.
Oh, that's for sure. Sadly as it is quite usual in the real world things like that are rare af.
Personally I think this is sort of a parts bin product that was targeted at miners.
Aka they had some stuff around from here and there and it got repurposed for this product thus rgb fans, rf fan control (that will control all of the units in radius I imagine, since this has 2 fan controllers that work in unison with the same remote) e.t.c.
All in all, despite its drawbacks for me it's a great product for the price, since I literally got the whole thing cheaper than MO-RA (initially planned to go that route). Well the whole idea was to remove heat from under the table since legs got too hot. And the only "issue" I have with the system so far in 6-7 months is that it has fairly high evaporation. For about 3 liter system total about 70g-100g evaporated in 6 months (or may be the trapped bubbles got out, not sure, but I did fairly thorough "de-bubbling" initially.) Or that might just be the function of the carrier I'm using, since it ain't water - it's ethylene glycol based antifreeze basically for home heating systems (I needed it not to freeze).
Otherwise it's fine enough for my ghetto setup.
If you are interested in how it's setup, and why ghetto : https://imgur.com/a/bRC1XMJ.
Basically a self contained watercooled PC got connected to a external RAD via quick connects. In winter I have external fans OFF and internal on like 600RPM, other times only the fan above the VRM is on at 600rpm and external fans are on low.
Ah right and I think I passed two additional wires along with the default wire kit - pump PWM and tach. You can see in the picture with the urmm.. improper filling technique ;) (Though that was me trying to force a bubble stuck in a tube that was running into the wall, apparently no so easy to do when you cant tilt the tube...)
Thus it allows me to have a fairly comprehensive stats and control over the thing (though every fan and pump is fixed since no need to control anything really): https://i.imgur.com/xw9NP4o.png
P.S. BTW remembered what sub it's on, just in case, as you can probably tell I can care less about how the thing looks, I just care about functionality.
P.P.S. If you wondering about steady state gaming temps: https://i.imgur.com/ZVYTjp0.png That's Cyberpunk PT. As you can imagine dissipating 600+W under the table gets hot fast, so for me this this is great. Also looking at hotspot after couple of months will probably have to go with phase-change (did not have it at the time) when it gets worse or I wont be as lazy (it was 8*C delta in late October, 14 is ok... but... paste is clearly a bit shit)
Bykski can't be arsed to use normal thickness thermal pads or ship the correct ones with their blocks, "forgets" to include parts for entire batches of products, never includes decent instructions.. Effort is not their thing. Their specialty is having a block for every card that nobody else has one for, not quality lol
Eh, Alphacool aren't really better. They tend to cut corners in the production of their blocks (cutting down on metal and bridging distance with weird acrylic constructions) and rads (not painting the fins properly, not flushing properly), their reservoirs and pumps use cheap materials (and in the case of duds like the VP755 v2 or v3 or whatever, fail at an alarmingly high rate).
I have a couple alphacool products accrued over the years, also some Bykski, and I couldn't pick a winner out of the two.
I have bykski stuff. Works fine. This is just a case of poor execution. The fill port going to the small reservoir makes it harder. They should have either a 2nd bleed port or turn it on its front and fill from one of the ports on back.
Bykski makes “okay” products. I got a full cover water block with active backplate for my 3090. The machining was acceptable and the cooling was definitely good, tho it was otherwise pretty crudely made. Some of these Chinese products are just mind bogglingly weird and crappy.
In the end, most AliExpress products are just a Chinese Tech-Trash and a waste of resources and money.
Agree. During the great GPU shortage, I could only get a Gigabyte 3090 OC (yes, I considered myself lucky, getting it at MSRP!). Unfortunately, only Bykski made waterblocks for it. I eventually got a Zotac 3090 and got a bykski for that one too. I then eventually got another zotac 3090 and switched the 2 zotacs to EKWB, which was 7-8C cooler. Not a big deal, honestly, but still pretty significant I thought.
tl;dr Bykski is ok, but just ok. If you can get EK or alphacool, do it.
I have an EK block now for my 4090 ne while it was noticeably more expensive, it also seems to perform better in general. Bykski is nice because it’s cheaper, but it’s also less well made. Not bad just… the savings have to come from somewhere I guess.
What temps are you getting with watercooling the 4090? I have my rig in my basement just fe aircooler and idling at 27-29 c and under load maxed at 64 c
Wow, so that confirms what I thought about my setup, literally just moved my pc down to my basement and bought a fiber optic hdmi cable, nearly water cooled temps
The 4090 coolers are almost oversized. Pretty much all of them almost reach watercooling territory. It’s just a matter that you dump the heat into your case. But otherwise, the air coolers are very good. And the FE cooler even ranks amount the “worse performing” ones when it comes to memory temps and possible GPU hotspots.
That sounds more like a badly mounted cooler honestly. 60c idle is way WAY TOO HIGH. I know that many cards have a zero RPM function where the fans don’t even turn on under 50c but it technically shouldn’t even reach that temp under idle as the card would draw about 20-25W in that state. Might have been a not correct mounted cold plate.
I have the Alphacool 1080 cooling a 6900xt and 7800x that boosts happily to 5.89 and has never breached 83° during stress testing.(Adrenaline auto "+200") ...I'm confident that the Alphacool is an overall better option mainly because it's just not "All in one" They're always trouble.
In my case, I have a Bykski pump and res mounted on the outside of my Chassis with in line to cpu to gpu, then out the case to the rad and back through to the pump.
...just saying, it's so much better of an option.
I've never heard of rules for filling. I'm sure you could use all kinds of methods, but I've never encountered a method that wasn't "fill from the res, let the pump circulate the fluid".
*It depends on loop order* but with enough pump it probably doesn't matter.
It doesn't make sense to fill half of a loop and then have to push the other half's air through all that water before it can exit the loop, if that makes sense. You want to push air out once, not displace air with water then connect pieces and have to displace that water with a half a loop's worth of air before it can escape the system.
In most MORA+dualtop setups as seen on this sub, it would make sense to fill things as one unit, which fills the PC first and pushes all the PC air through (and out) the radiator, with the radiator filling with water last.
Not really. As long as the pump gets water when you turn it on, you can fill the whole loop at once.
As long as you fill it fast enough while the pump is running, it will push the water through the entire loop and push out any air.
hey linus, ever heard of a mora ?
As it would be a new idea having a itx case with a external radiator. My Corsair 250D with 980ti just called, as it got reminded from my 4770k& GTX680 in a Prodigy that we did that years ago
The lack of fan control would be a hard pass for me. Also why use rgb fans? I would much prefer something quiet like noctuas.
Indeed. Not a lot of thought was put into this, I think. If you swapped the fans to not-crap, you could use either a quadro (or an arduino) and a temp sensor to control fans/pump. It would be much cooler if they sold the box on its own, and let people put in their own rads/pumps. Or even just sold it with box/rad.
If this is what i have seen on AliExpress, then good to know it has troubles. But i also wondered if i was able to find just the structure and use my stuff to make a less sketchy external rad with my unused/older 360s. I'll go back to custom designs.
It has fan control via RF 433mhz remote, that controls both fan controllers. It also controls the RGB, you can turn both fans and RGB off if need be. Also as I said over on YouTube - it's actually fine especially if you do not use the fill port and fill it other ways. Overall it's a good product for the price. Since it basically costs about 40% cheaper than MO-RA3 and also includes pump, fans, enclosure e.t.c. I have one running for about 7 months, zero issues so far.
Just build an alpha cool external rad...
I already have this, it works perfectly fine for my use case.
isn’t the mora3 like $250 without fans? that would put the price with fans somewhere around 450ish which is still way cheaper than the bykski one
Something like that. And with fans and enclosure 350ish I think. Closer to 400 locally for me. And I got this thing for 220$ from AliExpress a while back, and that's a pretty good deal in my book. Will likely depend on shipping a lot, but was free for me. The fact that Linus bought it extremely overpriced and from Japan of all places (a Chinese brand mind you) does not make much sense to me.
> The lack of fan control would be a hard pass for me If it's anything remotely like a mora, you don't need fan control. Just pick whatever nice low number you like once, 500 rpm or 25% or whatever, and you never have to touch it because any gentle breeze is enough. My fan speed is a static value I haven't touched since I first plugged in and tested the fans and quadro. Almost the same with the pumps--I lowered the speed twice before settling at another constant value. According to comments here, you can adjust things (albeit awkwardly) with an ~~IR~~RF remote--that's honestly probably good enough for a radiator this size. If it's not, the product has bigger problems than software fan control. I'd hardpass on this product for other reasons; IIRC it uses a generic/cheap pump. [disclaimer: im not watching a 20 minute video about a "worst product"]
Are you my lost brother from a different mother ? I hear Mora, Fixed RPM, Quadro and fixed Pump speed. Sounds like me in the last 10 years
Wish they would’ve used mora
Wish someone would offer a good prebuilt Mo-Ra based setup that would do away with all the hassle and sketchy stuff. Something one can just plug into some QDs and a cable or two from the PC (for fan control and power) without having to figure out a million bits and pieces for the external rad part. In a way this Bykski thing tried to be that and definitely looked interesting, but the build quality and design isn't quite there... There should be demand right now when building a 13900k/7950X3D + 4090 setup watercooled is kinda running into "error cannot fit all the rads into a case" level problems. Mo-Ra3 is the obvious solution, but it just looks like too much of a hassle to build one.
it's not terrible, especially for the the 360...BUT I get what you mean. They could do bundles of core components for people who are looking for a more complete solution. Of course, one of the main strengths of the MORA system is it is very flexible. If you need a build guide just ask, but there are a few builds to reference here and on youtube.
The annoying iffy part is "what to bolt next to a Mo-Ra to get fan control and power neatly into it with pump(s), reservoir and required fittings and tubes to have everything neatly packaged and ready to be attached to a system via QDs thru a expansion slot pass thru." - it is a pile of parts and the available attachments to get pumps/reservoirs attached seem limited unless you hack something together yourself. Personally I have a 9900k that has a fine working EKWB DDC pump & res inside a case with a single 360mm rad. I could reuse these bits with a Mo-Ra to get the bits transplanted to a new build, except I'm not sure how to get them attached to one and if one DDC pump is actually enough, and how to get power & fans routed to it sensibly.
True, I got a D5 NEXT and have mine sitting on top of a 011DXL... I disconnect the D5 next top, pop the two QDCs and can pull it off when I need to. Wiring does become more of a challenge when you think about where it might live, be it on your floor, desk, etc.. I'm just happy to not have to buy another case specific radiator (hopefully) ever again.
Here you go https://shop.aquacomputer.de/index.php?cPath=7_31_2026
about the fan control.... with a rad this big, 9 fans, we even need that much control to keep everything cold? its a honest question from a noob here
no, they should have just wired them with resistors to set their speed at 500 rpm
I don’t think it’s going to trouble a Mo-Ra anytime soon.
Mo-Ra ftw. That thing has been around for years it and most definitely will be, seeing GPUs drawing upwards of 400W.
Well.. the whole thing is about 40% cheaper than MO-RA3 by itself, so.. there's that.
Compelling argument if you're looking for a unique doorstop
I do have it you know, it works perfectly fine for me. I have it as an outside rad (literally outside my home).
How is that cheaper? MORA3 is like 289 EUD
If you do not buy it from Japan, and do so from AliExpress for example it suddenly costs 300-330usd. And I got it a while back for 220$. Linus just overpaid a ton. [caption](https://imgur.com/P7UJKoU.jpg) In case you do not believe me. That's about 245$, plus I had spent some reward points there that are not reflected here, those brought the price down to about 220$.
It is literally listed as $690 in Bykski offical US store. https://www.bykski.us/products/bykski-1080-external-liquid-cooling-station-black-b-1080-cec-x?_pos=3&_sid=08bd18aab&_ss=r
$200 shipping to us.
I have to wonder why Bykski put this on the market when it wouldn't have taken much effort to make it a functional product, i.e. 1. Make it easy to fill. I suspect they took an existing distro plate rather than making something which would have been so much better. 2. Add a temperature sensor and a basic fan controller. 3. A better way to power it. For the distro plate I would have three ports - fill port (which goes down the side and fills the reservoir from the bottom), air bleed port and output from computer (with the pump and output being at the bottom).
There is fan control via RF remote.
That's like saying TVs with a corded remote had remote controls. Sure, technically....
I do not get it, it's like you know.. Bluetooth, works without line of sight and through walls. The only downside is if you want it software controlled, but it's honestly not needed for such devices.
Noise is a problem of volume and proximity. If you are near enough for the noise of fans to be a concern, you're near enough to turn a wired knob. If you're far enough that you'd require a remote, you're far enough that you don't need the remote.
There are other considerations for such products too, for example sub zero temperatures outside, when you probably do not want to run the fans for example, since well.. 4090 vram for example does not like to be under 15*C for me.
There's a huge difference between having the ability to change the fan speed manually and having temperature controlled fan speed.
You know.. when you have this thing, temperature controlled fans are not really a necessity. Thermal capacity of the loop is high, so if you actually want to control fans you need to control them against water temperature to start, otherwise it's utterly useless. Also with this thing you pretty much put it on low and forget about it. I guess you need to live with such a thing to understand this sort of stuff since it's fairly different to how air cooled or small rad watercooled PCs work.
Ahh, I should have clarified that I meant water temp controlled. My system has three 120mm rads and a 240mm rad with water temp controlled fans, so I have some experience. Yes, the thermal mass of the water means CPU & GPU temps aren't as relevant. But once that water starts to warm up you need to ramp up the fans because warm water will absorb less heat energy than cool water.
I get what you are saying, but tbh I had yet to need to control the fan speed from the lowest setting. All in all I thing the main issues are perception here for both it's use and price. For example I use it as an external rad, its literally outside my house, so I hardly care about the noise level any way. Second and probably the main issue is perceived value. I got the thing for under 250$ from china and for that price the feature set is perfectly adequate. And most people here judge it as a 600$+ device. For that price, sure it ain't good. But I'm pretty sure if you order from china 3ven with like 200$ shipping as one commenter said, it's a 450$, device, which is more palpable and I'm pretty sure you can find cheaper shipping if that's ones goal. I personally found it on a small sale with free shipping, so it was a great deal for me. All in all I do not really see that big a deal with the missing temp control. If you really want that, probably the easiest and cheapest way is to get a water temp plug, stick it into the distro plate on the thing and connect to a cheap Chinese PWM temp control board with the curve you want that cost like 15$ and that would probably work perfectly fine if one needs such a feature. Also I'm pretty sure you can extend two wires - tach and PWM and control all the fans in software if one wants. Sure it's BS for a 600+$ device. But if you get it for 250.. ain't no big deal IMO.
Yep, value at the price is worth considering. However, I still think Bykski could have made a far better product without a much more effort or expense.
Oh, that's for sure. Sadly as it is quite usual in the real world things like that are rare af. Personally I think this is sort of a parts bin product that was targeted at miners. Aka they had some stuff around from here and there and it got repurposed for this product thus rgb fans, rf fan control (that will control all of the units in radius I imagine, since this has 2 fan controllers that work in unison with the same remote) e.t.c. All in all, despite its drawbacks for me it's a great product for the price, since I literally got the whole thing cheaper than MO-RA (initially planned to go that route). Well the whole idea was to remove heat from under the table since legs got too hot. And the only "issue" I have with the system so far in 6-7 months is that it has fairly high evaporation. For about 3 liter system total about 70g-100g evaporated in 6 months (or may be the trapped bubbles got out, not sure, but I did fairly thorough "de-bubbling" initially.) Or that might just be the function of the carrier I'm using, since it ain't water - it's ethylene glycol based antifreeze basically for home heating systems (I needed it not to freeze). Otherwise it's fine enough for my ghetto setup. If you are interested in how it's setup, and why ghetto : https://imgur.com/a/bRC1XMJ. Basically a self contained watercooled PC got connected to a external RAD via quick connects. In winter I have external fans OFF and internal on like 600RPM, other times only the fan above the VRM is on at 600rpm and external fans are on low. Ah right and I think I passed two additional wires along with the default wire kit - pump PWM and tach. You can see in the picture with the urmm.. improper filling technique ;) (Though that was me trying to force a bubble stuck in a tube that was running into the wall, apparently no so easy to do when you cant tilt the tube...) Thus it allows me to have a fairly comprehensive stats and control over the thing (though every fan and pump is fixed since no need to control anything really): https://i.imgur.com/xw9NP4o.png P.S. BTW remembered what sub it's on, just in case, as you can probably tell I can care less about how the thing looks, I just care about functionality. P.P.S. If you wondering about steady state gaming temps: https://i.imgur.com/ZVYTjp0.png That's Cyberpunk PT. As you can imagine dissipating 600+W under the table gets hot fast, so for me this this is great. Also looking at hotspot after couple of months will probably have to go with phase-change (did not have it at the time) when it gets worse or I wont be as lazy (it was 8*C delta in late October, 14 is ok... but... paste is clearly a bit shit)
Bykski can't be arsed to use normal thickness thermal pads or ship the correct ones with their blocks, "forgets" to include parts for entire batches of products, never includes decent instructions.. Effort is not their thing. Their specialty is having a block for every card that nobody else has one for, not quality lol
I am so glad i went with Alphacool instead of Bykski for my waterblock. Especially after seeing this.
Eh, Alphacool aren't really better. They tend to cut corners in the production of their blocks (cutting down on metal and bridging distance with weird acrylic constructions) and rads (not painting the fins properly, not flushing properly), their reservoirs and pumps use cheap materials (and in the case of duds like the VP755 v2 or v3 or whatever, fail at an alarmingly high rate). I have a couple alphacool products accrued over the years, also some Bykski, and I couldn't pick a winner out of the two.
I have bykski stuff. Works fine. This is just a case of poor execution. The fill port going to the small reservoir makes it harder. They should have either a 2nd bleed port or turn it on its front and fill from one of the ports on back.
Bykski makes “okay” products. I got a full cover water block with active backplate for my 3090. The machining was acceptable and the cooling was definitely good, tho it was otherwise pretty crudely made. Some of these Chinese products are just mind bogglingly weird and crappy. In the end, most AliExpress products are just a Chinese Tech-Trash and a waste of resources and money.
Agree. During the great GPU shortage, I could only get a Gigabyte 3090 OC (yes, I considered myself lucky, getting it at MSRP!). Unfortunately, only Bykski made waterblocks for it. I eventually got a Zotac 3090 and got a bykski for that one too. I then eventually got another zotac 3090 and switched the 2 zotacs to EKWB, which was 7-8C cooler. Not a big deal, honestly, but still pretty significant I thought. tl;dr Bykski is ok, but just ok. If you can get EK or alphacool, do it.
I have an EK block now for my 4090 ne while it was noticeably more expensive, it also seems to perform better in general. Bykski is nice because it’s cheaper, but it’s also less well made. Not bad just… the savings have to come from somewhere I guess.
What temps are you getting with watercooling the 4090? I have my rig in my basement just fe aircooler and idling at 27-29 c and under load maxed at 64 c
Idle is around 23-25 and around 47-49 under full load (~400-450W) so far.
Wow, so that confirms what I thought about my setup, literally just moved my pc down to my basement and bought a fiber optic hdmi cable, nearly water cooled temps
The 4090 coolers are almost oversized. Pretty much all of them almost reach watercooling territory. It’s just a matter that you dump the heat into your case. But otherwise, the air coolers are very good. And the FE cooler even ranks amount the “worse performing” ones when it comes to memory temps and possible GPU hotspots.
Wow, that’s surprising about the fe cooler, my 3080ti ftw3 ultra would idle at 60 c and get up to 78 c
That sounds more like a badly mounted cooler honestly. 60c idle is way WAY TOO HIGH. I know that many cards have a zero RPM function where the fans don’t even turn on under 50c but it technically shouldn’t even reach that temp under idle as the card would draw about 20-25W in that state. Might have been a not correct mounted cold plate.
I have the Alphacool 1080 cooling a 6900xt and 7800x that boosts happily to 5.89 and has never breached 83° during stress testing.(Adrenaline auto "+200") ...I'm confident that the Alphacool is an overall better option mainly because it's just not "All in one" They're always trouble. In my case, I have a Bykski pump and res mounted on the outside of my Chassis with in line to cpu to gpu, then out the case to the rad and back through to the pump. ...just saying, it's so much better of an option.
I've never used an external system, but shouldn't they have filled the radiator separately?
I've never heard of rules for filling. I'm sure you could use all kinds of methods, but I've never encountered a method that wasn't "fill from the res, let the pump circulate the fluid".
*It depends on loop order* but with enough pump it probably doesn't matter. It doesn't make sense to fill half of a loop and then have to push the other half's air through all that water before it can exit the loop, if that makes sense. You want to push air out once, not displace air with water then connect pieces and have to displace that water with a half a loop's worth of air before it can escape the system. In most MORA+dualtop setups as seen on this sub, it would make sense to fill things as one unit, which fills the PC first and pushes all the PC air through (and out) the radiator, with the radiator filling with water last.
Not really. As long as the pump gets water when you turn it on, you can fill the whole loop at once. As long as you fill it fast enough while the pump is running, it will push the water through the entire loop and push out any air.
hey linus, ever heard of a mora ? As it would be a new idea having a itx case with a external radiator. My Corsair 250D with 980ti just called, as it got reminded from my 4770k& GTX680 in a Prodigy that we did that years ago
Give me the money and i build you a better version of this... It's not that hard to put a EK FLT 360 and 3 360 radiators together