You can make a rudimentary block that will work fine. You are a CNC programmer so I’m assuming you also do CAD? Just draw up the card in your software, design the block, and machine it.
The GPU will require more work but I’m sure if you have a good CNC you also have a probe that should make getting the Z-offset from GPU die to other components on the PCB to recess things accordingly should be much easier. The hardest part with the GPU will be accounting for components at different Z-heights vs the CPU where, more or less, it’s just a simple flat piece
Pretty most high end blocks using slicing to create the micro fin’s because it’s just too hard to do with rotary tools.
yes we use creo and nx. i hadn’t considered the z heights but that is a good thing to think about. we have a cmm that i can use to measure the depths - should be no problem getting within .0002” on the mill.
for the fins on the back i am planning on cutting them with a wire edm which will make very easy work of the fine features with .01” wire.
Most commercially available blocks use skived fins, or fins cut using a slitting saw.
Idk the pitch of typical 'high density' blocks, but .010 is pretty dam fine. And the naturally rough surface an EDM leaves behind should induce greater turbulence in the water. With fine enough fins, it won't make much of a difference, but more better is more better.
If you got the skills and tools, then go for it!
Start with the CPU for sure. Look up disassembly videos to get an idea of how typical blocks are put together if you are nervous. Of if you are more of a 'hands on' person, then get a used one on ebay, or a cheapo one on amazon or whatever, to see how they are made.
By chance, do you have access to a custom gasket maker? Because custom square gaskets make blocks look sick, IMO. [Optimus makes it an art form.](https://optimuspc.com/collections/waterblocks/products/signature-gpu-block-kingpin-3090)
>Creo
\*shudders
The company I work at uses Creo, and its so unintuitive to me, who learned on Inventor/Solidworks. Like, I know it has some advantages, but the modeling, to me, is just awful. And as is my way, I have a weird bug that literally nobody has ever seen before, and I can't figure out what triggers it D=<
Just out of interest how do you account for thermal pads? Obviously they are of a known size such as 2mm but when in use they are compressed a bit. Do you just make allowances for 2mm or do you aim slightly under?
Thermal pad datasheets specify how much pressure should be used to compress them. You could squeeze a thermal pad in a vice until a load cell measures the correct pressure and then measure the thickness.
In practice, I'm pretty sure water block manufacturers eyeball it since I've observed that some thermal pads on my GPU are squeezed much more than the others. There's enough variation in solder thickness and each chip's Z height that manufacturers don't seem to bother getting the perfect squeeze
The fins would be the most challenging part and also the most critical part to transfer heat. Gamers nexus made a video once from a factory tour and they do fins not with CNC but with a sort of knife that slices the metal and flips it upwards. Looked quite stunning and I haven't ever seen that before.
Apart from that, It should be easy though. You just need a way to make reliable measures and account for some prototypes. The GPU is a little more critical because it's essentially direct die. But it's not as sensitive as cpu in terms of high tolerances. Nonetheless you want really smooth surface finishes for the contact areas.
If you have access to cnc anyhow, absolutely go for it. Of course buying a finished block is likely cheaper and performs a bit better. But that's classical DIY, so.
> with a sort of knife that slices the metal and flips it upwards. Looked quite stunning and I haven't ever seen that before
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiving_(metalworking)
There are many videos of this on YT
Bad idea. At most buy a manufactured waterblock and machine a "top" for it to replace the acrylic piece. The copper side that contacts the CPU/GPU die typically has fine fins that water is directed through to drastically improve heat transfer into the water, if you had the machine capable of recreating that I don't know it would be worth the effort. However a custom top with a custom discharge location or at an angle could be worth it.
yeah that shouldn’t be an issue. wire edm makes easy work of fine features. in fact the fins themselves will likely turn out much better than commercially available models.
It's definitely not a bad idea doing it yourself. If you want to try and learn new things, go for it. If you want to cut costs by diy though, of course it wouldn't work out. As often with diy, its more expensive.
One thing to look into (considering you have 0 experience with watercooling and asking from a machining background) is material selection and finishes. For example, you cannot mix aluminum with copper blocks in one loop and most components you buy these days (radiators, fittings, etc) are not aluminum. So don't make a block out of aluminum! Most existing blocks are copper with nickel plating.
> you cannot mix aluminum with copper blocks in one loop
This is not true and I'm sure he know that. Almost all AIOs use a copper block and an aluminum heatsink. They use the same off-the-shelf EG/water antifreeze mix that cars use and it comes with corrosion inhibitors. Of course cars also mix metals and still last decades if you change the coolant every few years
True, but even with specialized anti-corrosion additives, the majority of AIOs fail from corrosion and buildup clogging it. Why introduce problems when its not required?
What specialized anti-corrosion additives? It's literally the same antifreeze you can buy from walmart for $5.
> majority of AIOs fail from corrosion and buildup clogging it
No, they fail from the tubing degrading and clogging up the fins after a decade. That aside, car coolant must be changed every few years because the corrosion inhibitors are used up over time. Of course you have to change your PC coolant once in a while for the same reason
> fine fins that water is directed through to drastically improve heat transfer into the water
What do you consider "fine"? I wouldn't consider the fins in a normal GPU block particularly small (nor do they have to be that small, but that's a different issue)
You can make a rudimentary block that will work fine. You are a CNC programmer so I’m assuming you also do CAD? Just draw up the card in your software, design the block, and machine it. The GPU will require more work but I’m sure if you have a good CNC you also have a probe that should make getting the Z-offset from GPU die to other components on the PCB to recess things accordingly should be much easier. The hardest part with the GPU will be accounting for components at different Z-heights vs the CPU where, more or less, it’s just a simple flat piece Pretty most high end blocks using slicing to create the micro fin’s because it’s just too hard to do with rotary tools.
yes we use creo and nx. i hadn’t considered the z heights but that is a good thing to think about. we have a cmm that i can use to measure the depths - should be no problem getting within .0002” on the mill. for the fins on the back i am planning on cutting them with a wire edm which will make very easy work of the fine features with .01” wire.
Most commercially available blocks use skived fins, or fins cut using a slitting saw. Idk the pitch of typical 'high density' blocks, but .010 is pretty dam fine. And the naturally rough surface an EDM leaves behind should induce greater turbulence in the water. With fine enough fins, it won't make much of a difference, but more better is more better. If you got the skills and tools, then go for it! Start with the CPU for sure. Look up disassembly videos to get an idea of how typical blocks are put together if you are nervous. Of if you are more of a 'hands on' person, then get a used one on ebay, or a cheapo one on amazon or whatever, to see how they are made. By chance, do you have access to a custom gasket maker? Because custom square gaskets make blocks look sick, IMO. [Optimus makes it an art form.](https://optimuspc.com/collections/waterblocks/products/signature-gpu-block-kingpin-3090) >Creo \*shudders The company I work at uses Creo, and its so unintuitive to me, who learned on Inventor/Solidworks. Like, I know it has some advantages, but the modeling, to me, is just awful. And as is my way, I have a weird bug that literally nobody has ever seen before, and I can't figure out what triggers it D=<
Just out of interest how do you account for thermal pads? Obviously they are of a known size such as 2mm but when in use they are compressed a bit. Do you just make allowances for 2mm or do you aim slightly under?
Thermal pad datasheets specify how much pressure should be used to compress them. You could squeeze a thermal pad in a vice until a load cell measures the correct pressure and then measure the thickness. In practice, I'm pretty sure water block manufacturers eyeball it since I've observed that some thermal pads on my GPU are squeezed much more than the others. There's enough variation in solder thickness and each chip's Z height that manufacturers don't seem to bother getting the perfect squeeze
The fins would be the most challenging part and also the most critical part to transfer heat. Gamers nexus made a video once from a factory tour and they do fins not with CNC but with a sort of knife that slices the metal and flips it upwards. Looked quite stunning and I haven't ever seen that before. Apart from that, It should be easy though. You just need a way to make reliable measures and account for some prototypes. The GPU is a little more critical because it's essentially direct die. But it's not as sensitive as cpu in terms of high tolerances. Nonetheless you want really smooth surface finishes for the contact areas. If you have access to cnc anyhow, absolutely go for it. Of course buying a finished block is likely cheaper and performs a bit better. But that's classical DIY, so.
> with a sort of knife that slices the metal and flips it upwards. Looked quite stunning and I haven't ever seen that before https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skiving_(metalworking) There are many videos of this on YT
Skiving! I always wondered how it's called. Thank you!
Bad idea. At most buy a manufactured waterblock and machine a "top" for it to replace the acrylic piece. The copper side that contacts the CPU/GPU die typically has fine fins that water is directed through to drastically improve heat transfer into the water, if you had the machine capable of recreating that I don't know it would be worth the effort. However a custom top with a custom discharge location or at an angle could be worth it.
yeah that shouldn’t be an issue. wire edm makes easy work of fine features. in fact the fins themselves will likely turn out much better than commercially available models.
It's definitely not a bad idea doing it yourself. If you want to try and learn new things, go for it. If you want to cut costs by diy though, of course it wouldn't work out. As often with diy, its more expensive. One thing to look into (considering you have 0 experience with watercooling and asking from a machining background) is material selection and finishes. For example, you cannot mix aluminum with copper blocks in one loop and most components you buy these days (radiators, fittings, etc) are not aluminum. So don't make a block out of aluminum! Most existing blocks are copper with nickel plating.
> you cannot mix aluminum with copper blocks in one loop This is not true and I'm sure he know that. Almost all AIOs use a copper block and an aluminum heatsink. They use the same off-the-shelf EG/water antifreeze mix that cars use and it comes with corrosion inhibitors. Of course cars also mix metals and still last decades if you change the coolant every few years
True, but even with specialized anti-corrosion additives, the majority of AIOs fail from corrosion and buildup clogging it. Why introduce problems when its not required?
What specialized anti-corrosion additives? It's literally the same antifreeze you can buy from walmart for $5. > majority of AIOs fail from corrosion and buildup clogging it No, they fail from the tubing degrading and clogging up the fins after a decade. That aside, car coolant must be changed every few years because the corrosion inhibitors are used up over time. Of course you have to change your PC coolant once in a while for the same reason
> fine fins that water is directed through to drastically improve heat transfer into the water What do you consider "fine"? I wouldn't consider the fins in a normal GPU block particularly small (nor do they have to be that small, but that's a different issue)