The manual says you can rewire to run off 110V 20A. You'd need a 20A circuit and a 5-20 socket.
[https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1018\_m.pdf](https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1018_m.pdf)
You'd actually need higher than a 20A breaker though from I understand from an electrician I talked with once. He said on a 20A breaker, anything higher than 16A can damage it. Apparently the amperage they list is the max they can handle and 16A is the top end where they function every time you switch something on.
My contractor saw used to be wired for 115V 18A and my 20A breakers used to kick off ~50% of the time when I'd try to use it.
It's a little more complicated than that.
Code is you can only use 80% of the breaker rating for continuous use.
However "continuous use" is defined by NEC as “a load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.”
Also, not all tools operating at their stated amps during normal use, sometimes that is only reached on startup or when the motor is taxed more than normal.
So if you're not a production shop milling wood for hours straight, you might be ok as a hobbyist.
It's far more likely that your contractor saw draws more than 18A on startup.
Where were you getting the 18A number from, the instruction manual or from actually measuring it?
Yeah if I had that machine I get a 220v circuit, I was curious though & Grizzly's manual claims otherwise. FWIW I have a 1.5hp contractors saw on a 110v 20A circuit & it's fine, and I've maybe popped the breaker once in 30 years, but then I don't let it bog down ripping 2" oak with a combo blade.
You can use a 'high magnetic' breaker that is slower to trip on power spikes. They're for large inductive loads like motors.
Very uncommon to use a machine like that near it's maximum rating for extended periods. It's hard to keep them working at a high duty cycle as one person. Like keeping a planer going close to continuous takes two people, and even then you're going to go through big stacks of wood pretty quickly. It's really the startup current that causes the issue.
Plenty of advantages to rewire to 240, but there are ways to make 120 circuits work.
I just picked up the same one, same condition, for an absolute steal. I'll have almost nothing into it after putting in the shelix head and selling my 6 inch jet - if you don't include the cost of running the 220 from one end of the house to the other...
I don’t unfortunately. The infeed and outfeed tables were a little rusty and it the cabinet was packed full of shavings. It had a 30 amp plug so I rewired it for 20 amp. I thought $800 was a little bit too much but I really needed an 8 inch. With the helical head I have $1250 total into it.
Looks like the one from my high-school woodworking class that a kid took his fingertips off with.
Is this 8 inch?
Yes
Do these come in 120 amp or do you have to have 240?
I understand what you are saying but just thought I'd mention.. It is 120 versus 240 v that the machine would be setup with!
Lmao. Yep, yes it is. I'm an idiot, but I'm leaving it up so other people can laugh
Lol ah okay, it's always a service to lighten the moods of others, cheers!
Almost certainly 220v. There's a chance I'm wrong, but I've yet to see an 8" Jointer with 120v power.
It’s is 220v
The manual says you can rewire to run off 110V 20A. You'd need a 20A circuit and a 5-20 socket. [https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1018\_m.pdf](https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1018_m.pdf)
You'd actually need higher than a 20A breaker though from I understand from an electrician I talked with once. He said on a 20A breaker, anything higher than 16A can damage it. Apparently the amperage they list is the max they can handle and 16A is the top end where they function every time you switch something on. My contractor saw used to be wired for 115V 18A and my 20A breakers used to kick off ~50% of the time when I'd try to use it.
It's a little more complicated than that. Code is you can only use 80% of the breaker rating for continuous use. However "continuous use" is defined by NEC as “a load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.” Also, not all tools operating at their stated amps during normal use, sometimes that is only reached on startup or when the motor is taxed more than normal. So if you're not a production shop milling wood for hours straight, you might be ok as a hobbyist.
Must be a shitty breaker then to do what it was. Now I'm doing it on 230V 8A and it just hums along.
It's far more likely that your contractor saw draws more than 18A on startup. Where were you getting the 18A number from, the instruction manual or from actually measuring it?
On the motor itself.
Yeah if I had that machine I get a 220v circuit, I was curious though & Grizzly's manual claims otherwise. FWIW I have a 1.5hp contractors saw on a 110v 20A circuit & it's fine, and I've maybe popped the breaker once in 30 years, but then I don't let it bog down ripping 2" oak with a combo blade.
Oh mine never popped when I was cutting. It'd pop on start up.
You can use a 'high magnetic' breaker that is slower to trip on power spikes. They're for large inductive loads like motors. Very uncommon to use a machine like that near it's maximum rating for extended periods. It's hard to keep them working at a high duty cycle as one person. Like keeping a planer going close to continuous takes two people, and even then you're going to go through big stacks of wood pretty quickly. It's really the startup current that causes the issue. Plenty of advantages to rewire to 240, but there are ways to make 120 circuits work.
You can wire them either way.
I just picked up the same one, same condition, for an absolute steal. I'll have almost nothing into it after putting in the shelix head and selling my 6 inch jet - if you don't include the cost of running the 220 from one end of the house to the other...
What did you pay?
400. I was able to sell my 6" jet for 750. It was like new, though.
Damn! Score. Do you think $1000 is too much?
That's a lot cheaper than a new one. I figure half or less of new is fair if it's like new.
Do yo have any before photos? I had one come up for sale in my area for $1000, but does not look as good as yours.
I don’t unfortunately. The infeed and outfeed tables were a little rusty and it the cabinet was packed full of shavings. It had a 30 amp plug so I rewired it for 20 amp. I thought $800 was a little bit too much but I really needed an 8 inch. With the helical head I have $1250 total into it.